Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results of my DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter of wooden fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the below ground section if I cover that portion of the wood in bitumen? I imagine that preventing soaking from ground water should do some good.

Thanks.

Jim.

Jim Walsh Wrote in message:
Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results of my DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter of wooden fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the below ground section if I cover that portion of the wood in bitumen? I imagine that preventing soaking from ground water should do some good.

Thanks.

Jim.


Its the bit where the air & soil/water meet where the rot strikes,
even treated posts succumb.

I estimate where that transition point will be when the posts will
be installed & paint posts with bitumen in a tall 12" /18"
"stripe".

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

In message , Jim K
writes
Jim Walsh Wrote in message:
Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results of
my DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter of
wooden fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the below
ground section if I cover that portion of the wood in bitumen? I
imagine that preventing soaking from ground water should do some good.

Thanks.

Jim.


Its the bit where the air & soil/water meet where the rot strikes,
even treated posts succumb.

I estimate where that transition point will be when the posts will
be installed & paint posts with bitumen in a tall 12" /18"
"stripe".

It is possible to purchase fence posts pressure treated with creosote
from specialist suppliers.

The stretch of by-pass fencing through my farmland was completed in 1977
and is still sound (although not actually creosote and is fireproof with
a mothball smell).

Someone was marketing plastic sleeves for protecting the area where soil
bacteria/fungi are active but I've not seen any positive reports.

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

--
Tim Lamb

On Fri, 15 Jun 2018 08:35:27 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:

snip

It is possible to purchase fence posts pressure treated with creosote
from specialist suppliers.

Is it still 'creosote' (was it ever) when wood is 'Tanalised'?

This give a description of what looks like an 'extended' process (but
it might always have been like this):

http://tate-fencing.co.uk/about/tanalising-process/

I knew it generally use a lack of pressure (rather than 'pressure') to
draw the preservative into the timber but the above link takes it
further to potentially leave the surface of the timber 'drier'?

Seems there are quite a few different techniques ..

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_p...sure_processes

I have two 6" square gateposts and one has rotted off at ground level
and the other seems to be as good as new. I've got two steel posts
ready to go back in their place and the rest of the posts are
concrete. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On 15/06/2018 07:46, Jim K wrote:
Jim Walsh Wrote in message:
Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results
of my DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter
of wooden fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the
below ground section if I cover that portion of the wood in
bitumen? I imagine that preventing soaking from ground water should
do some good.

Its the bit where the air & soil/water meet where the rot strikes,
even treated posts succumb.

+1 and I haven't found a solution.

Embedding in concrete with the top angled so that water runs away from
the wood is an improvement but also a lot more work. I have also tried a
lead cap on the top of big posts to stop freeze thaw splitting them.

I estimate where that transition point will be when the posts will be
installed & paint posts with bitumen in a tall 12" /18" "stripe".

Does it make a worthwhile difference? I might try that.

I generally find the deeply buried spike in perfect condition once it is
buried more than about 6" - this makes it much harder to get out.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 15/06/2018 09:32, Martin Brown wrote:
On 15/06/2018 07:46, Jim K wrote:
Jim Walsh Wrote in message:
Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results
of my DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter
of wooden fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the
below ground section if I cover that portion of the wood in
bitumen? I imagine that preventing soaking from ground water should
do some good.

Its the bit where the air & soil/water meet where the rot strikes,
even treated posts succumb.

+1 and I haven't found a solution.

Embedding in concrete with the top angled so that water runs away from
the wood is an improvement but also a lot more work. I have also tried a
lead cap on the top of big posts to stop freeze thaw splitting them.

+1
The soil/air layer is where posts rot first

When I had wooden fence posts extending the concrete above the soil
level and sloping the edges for water run off extended the life
significantly.

When real creosote was readily available I used to stand the posts for a
week or so in a large bucket filled with creosote and old engine oil,
occasionally painting the mixture up the posts whist still soaking.

The bitumen method may work well. There is a company that does
impregnated bands to be fitted around the post bridging the soil/air
boundary

http://www.postsaver.com/





--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Friday, 15 June 2018 12:48:11 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
On 15/06/2018 09:32, Martin Brown wrote:
On 15/06/2018 07:46, Jim K wrote:
Jim Walsh Wrote in message:
Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results
of my DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter
of wooden fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the
below ground section if I cover that portion of the wood in
bitumen? I imagine that preventing soaking from ground water should
do some good.

Its the bit where the air & soil/water meet where the rot strikes,
even treated posts succumb.

+1 and I haven't found a solution.

Embedding in concrete with the top angled so that water runs away from
the wood is an improvement but also a lot more work. I have also tried a
lead cap on the top of big posts to stop freeze thaw splitting them.

+1
The soil/air layer is where posts rot first

When I had wooden fence posts extending the concrete above the soil
level and sloping the edges for water run off extended the life
significantly.

When real creosote was readily available I used to stand the posts for a
week or so in a large bucket filled with creosote and old engine oil,
occasionally painting the mixture up the posts whist still soaking.

The bitumen method may work well. There is a company that does
impregnated bands to be fitted around the post bridging the soil/air
boundary

http://www.postsaver.com/

it does help to some extent. The bitumen should extend above ground.


NT

On 15/06/2018 09:32, Martin Brown wrote:
On 15/06/2018 07:46, Jim K wrote:
Jim Walsh Wrote in message:
Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results
of my DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter
of wooden fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the
below ground section if I cover that portion of the wood in
bitumen? I imagine that preventing soaking from ground water should
do some good.

Its the bit where the air & soil/water meet where the rot strikes,
even treated posts succumb.

+1 and I haven't found a solution.

Embedding in concrete with the top angled so that water runs away from
the wood is an improvement but also a lot more work. I have also tried a
lead cap on the top of big posts to stop freeze thaw splitting them.

I estimate where that transition point will be when the posts will be
installed & paint posts with bitumen in a tall 12" /18" "stripe".

Does it make a worthwhile difference? I might try that.

I generally find the deeply buried spike in perfect condition once it is
buried more than about 6" - this makes it much harder to get out.

Not half as hard as getting the rotten stump out of concrete.

I usually bury a spur. When the post rots away I can just bolt a new
post on.

Andy

On Friday, 15 June 2018 07:41:11 UTC+1, Jim Walsh wrote:
Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results of my DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter of wooden fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the below ground section if I cover that portion of the wood in bitumen? I imagine that preventing soaking from ground water should do some good.

Thanks.

Jim.

I have a short bit of 100mm drain pipe with a blank on one end.
I stand the posts in creosote (equivalent) for a day.
Takes a while, I can only fit one post in at a time.

On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 7:48:43 AM UTC+1, harry wrote:
On Friday, 15 June 2018 07:41:11 UTC+1, Jim Walsh wrote:
Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results of my DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter of wooden fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the below ground section if I cover that portion of the wood in bitumen? I imagine that preventing soaking from ground water should do some good.

Thanks.

Jim.

I have a short bit of 100mm drain pipe with a blank on one end.
I stand the posts in creosote (equivalent) for a day.
Takes a while, I can only fit one post in at a time.

I prefer the approach where you set the post in a very weak gravel/cement (6/1?) mix. That way it's easier to yank it out and replace

Another approach if you want the wooden post look at least on one side is to concrete in repair posts then attach your post clear of the ground to the repair post. It will also be easier to repair if sometime in the future it rots or snaps.

Richard

In article , Huge
wrote:
On 2018-06-15, Jim Walsh wrote:
Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results of my
DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter of wooden
fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the below ground
section if I cover that portion of the wood in bitumen?

No. Fence posts rot away at ground level. Get pressure treated ones.

Even pressure treated one rot - after about 10 years - or less. Concrete
spurs or "Metposts" keep the wood out of the ground.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

In message , Huge
writes
On 2018-06-15, charles wrote:
In article , Huge
wrote:
On 2018-06-15, Jim Walsh wrote:
Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results of my
DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter of wooden
fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the below ground
section if I cover that portion of the wood in bitumen?

No. Fence posts rot away at ground level. Get pressure treated ones.

Even pressure treated one rot - after about 10 years - or less.

Well, the 47 y/o power poles we had replaced because of woodpecker damage
were fine at ground level. But then, they're properly treated.

Concrete spurs or "Metposts" keep the wood out of the ground.

I'd go for the former. The latter don't have enough grip on the posts.

I have an idea the utility companies may use *boron nails* as a life
extender. Lots of poles end up on farms as fencing strainer posts.



--
Tim Lamb

In article ,
Huge writes:
On 2018-06-15, charles wrote:
In article , Huge
wrote:
On 2018-06-15, Jim Walsh wrote:
Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results of my
DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter of wooden
fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the below ground
section if I cover that portion of the wood in bitumen?

No. Fence posts rot away at ground level. Get pressure treated ones.

Even pressure treated one rot - after about 10 years - or less.

Well, the 47 y/o power poles we had replaced because of woodpecker damage
were fine at ground level. But then, they're properly treated.

Concrete spurs or "Metposts" keep the wood out of the ground.

I'd go for the former. The latter don't have enough grip on the posts.

A fence I installed over 30 years ago using the Metposts is still
fine. They were a make called Fensock which I don't think exists
anymore. They clamp the timber with a pair of nuts and bolts which
close the steal collar tightly around the post bottoms.

When I looked for something similar some years later, I couldn't
find it. I could do with some now for a different fence if anyone
knows of a source.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

A fence I installed over 30 years ago using the Metposts is still
fine. They were a make called Fensock which I don't think exists
anymore. They clamp the timber with a pair of nuts and bolts which
close the steal collar tightly around the post bottoms.

I thought they all did that? I've helped the neighbour fit this type,
the thin straps bite into the posts.

https://lawsons.co.uk/product/category/1157/metpost/f25020040

On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 3:03:27 PM UTC+1, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Huge writes:
On 2018-06-15, charles wrote:
In article , Huge
wrote:
On 2018-06-15, Jim Walsh wrote:
Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results of my
DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter of wooden
fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the below ground
section if I cover that portion of the wood in bitumen?

No. Fence posts rot away at ground level. Get pressure treated ones.

Even pressure treated one rot - after about 10 years - or less.

Well, the 47 y/o power poles we had replaced because of woodpecker damage
were fine at ground level. But then, they're properly treated.

Concrete spurs or "Metposts" keep the wood out of the ground.

I'd go for the former. The latter don't have enough grip on the posts.

A fence I installed over 30 years ago using the Metposts is still
fine. They were a make called Fensock which I don't think exists
anymore. They clamp the timber with a pair of nuts and bolts which
close the steal collar tightly around the post bottoms.

When I looked for something similar some years later, I couldn't
find it. I could do with some now for a different fence if anyone
knows of a source.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

IME the posts never fit without a lot of buggering about. This maybe?

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Landscaping/d130/Fence+Post+Metalwork+%26+Tools/sd3224/Drive-in+Post+Anchor/p12179

In article ,
stuart noble writes:
On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 3:03:27 PM UTC+1, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
A fence I installed over 30 years ago using the Metposts is still
fine. They were a make called Fensock which I don't think exists
anymore. They clamp the timber with a pair of nuts and bolts which
close the steal collar tightly around the post bottoms.

When I looked for something similar some years later, I couldn't
find it. I could do with some now for a different fence if anyone
knows of a source.

IME the posts never fit without a lot of buggering about. This maybe?

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Lan...+Anchor/p12179

Yes, those are very similar design, thanks!

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sat, 16 Jun 2018 09:13:14 -0700 (PDT), stuart noble wrote:

IME the posts never fit without a lot of buggering about. This maybe?

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Lan...+Anchor/p12179

Every time that I've used those there seems to be a stone deep down that
couses a twist. It's never near the surface where the twist could be
corrected. With about 50 cm. of fins in the ground and the stone, it's
impossible to twist it back.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

In article ,
PeterC writes:
On Sat, 16 Jun 2018 09:13:14 -0700 (PDT), stuart noble wrote:

IME the posts never fit without a lot of buggering about. This maybe?

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Lan...+Anchor/p12179

Every time that I've used those there seems to be a stone deep down that
couses a twist. It's never near the surface where the twist could be
corrected. With about 50 cm. of fins in the ground and the stone, it's
impossible to twist it back.

Somewhere, I still have the Fensock dummy that goes into the socket
for hammering them into the ground. It's a short length of fence post
but much harder wood, with a metal cap on the top where the hammer
hits it, and a metal rod through it so you can twist to keep the socket
square as you hammer it in. ISTR it was quite expensive, but wouldn't
be hard to make if you could get a short length of 4x4 hardwood.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

(Andrew Gabriel) Wrote in message:
In article ,
Huge writes:
On 2018-06-15, charles wrote:
In article , Huge
wrote:
On 2018-06-15, Jim Walsh wrote:
Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results of my
DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter of wooden
fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the below ground
section if I cover that portion of the wood in bitumen?

No. Fence posts rot away at ground level. Get pressure treated ones.

Even pressure treated one rot - after about 10 years - or less.

Well, the 47 y/o power poles we had replaced because of woodpecker damage
were fine at ground level. But then, they're properly treated.

Concrete spurs or "Metposts" keep the wood out of the ground.

I'd go for the former. The latter don't have enough grip on the posts.

A fence I installed over 30 years ago using the Metposts is still
fine. They were a make called Fensock which I don't think exists
anymore. They clamp the timber with a pair of nuts and bolts which
close the steal collar tightly around the post bottoms.

When I looked for something similar some years later, I couldn't
find it. I could do with some now for a different fence if anyone
knows of a source.


http://www.burbageironcraft.co.uk/Ga...t-supports.htm
--
--
Jim K

On Saturday, 16 June 2018 15:03:27 UTC+1, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Huge writes:
On 2018-06-15, charles wrote:
In article , Huge
wrote:
On 2018-06-15, Jim Walsh wrote:
Hi all.

I get a bit obsessive in trying to make sure that the end results of my
DIY jobs are long-lasting (where appropriate). On the matter of wooden
fence posts, is it likely to increase the life of the below ground
section if I cover that portion of the wood in bitumen?

No. Fence posts rot away at ground level. Get pressure treated ones.

Even pressure treated one rot - after about 10 years - or less.

Well, the 47 y/o power poles we had replaced because of woodpecker damage
were fine at ground level. But then, they're properly treated.

Concrete spurs or "Metposts" keep the wood out of the ground.

I'd go for the former. The latter don't have enough grip on the posts.

A fence I installed over 30 years ago using the Metposts is still
fine. They were a make called Fensock which I don't think exists
anymore. They clamp the timber with a pair of nuts and bolts which
close the steal collar tightly around the post bottoms.

When I looked for something similar some years later, I couldn't
find it. I could do with some now for a different fence if anyone


You can't find them because they are called
metAposts
https://www.diy.com/departments/outd.../DIY585883.cat

On Sat, 16 Jun 2018 10:42:17 -0700, harry wrote:

You can't find them because they are called metAposts
https://www.diy.com/departments/outd...-fence-panels-
gates/fence-post-support/DIY585883.cat

Wrong once more, harry.

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor