Sorry Brian it is a photo, I'll talk you through it later when I have
more time.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/8/85/How_wrong.jpg

It would have been easier and faster to to the job right in the first
place. I now have to check all the fittings. BTW this was a DIY install.

--
Adam

ARW wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/8/85/How_wrong.jpg

Live wire to neutral terminal and vice-versa (not that a bulb cares)

Earth wire not connected to earth terminal

No grommet where T&E passes through metal knockout

given how much slack T&E there is, the chock-block and 3" of wire (not
even flex) is quite pointless

On Fri, 27 Apr 2018 19:36:36 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

ARW wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/8/85/How_wrong.jpg

Live wire to neutral terminal and vice-versa (not that a bulb cares)

;-)

Earth wire not connected to earth terminal

Would that typically come in from the right (against the raised bit)
and be wrapped clockwise, or just tucked under the same if the flex
was fitted with a ferrule?

No grommet where T&E passes through metal knockout

I don't think that is a 'knockout' as such is it as it looks like it
has a rolled or rounded edge. If it does have a formed edge, does it
still have to have a grommet (genuine question)?

given how much slack T&E there is, the chock-block and 3" of wire (not
even flex) is quite pointless

I'd agree with that as well.

Cheers, T i m

On 27/04/2018 19:51, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 27 Apr 2018 19:36:36 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

No grommet where T&E passes through metal knockout

I don't think that is a 'knockout' as such is it as it looks like it
has a rolled or rounded edge. If it does have a formed edge, does it
still have to have a grommet (genuine question)?


I would say no grommet needed. If fact you would not get one to fit the
rounded hole.


--
Adam

On 27/04/2018 19:36, Andy Burns wrote:
ARW wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/8/85/How_wrong.jpg

Live wire to neutral terminal and vice-versa (not that a bulb cares)

It's an ES fitting!


--
Adam

On 27/04/18 21:16, ARW wrote:
On 27/04/2018 19:36, Andy Burns wrote:
ARW wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/8/85/How_wrong.jpg

Live wire to neutral terminal and vice-versa (not that a bulb cares)

It's an ES fitting!



It is? Oh - OK, then yes - I retract the bit about L+N not mattering too
much.

On 27/04/2018 21:54, Tim Watts wrote:
On 27/04/18 21:16, ARW wrote:
On 27/04/2018 19:36, Andy Burns wrote:
ARW wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/8/85/How_wrong.jpg

Live wire to neutral terminal and vice-versa (not that a bulb cares)

It's an ES fitting!

It is? Oh - OK, then yes - I retract the bit about L+N not mattering too
much.

Why does it matter?

--
Max Demian

Max Demian wrote:

Tim Watts wrote:

ARW wrote:

It's an ES fitting!

I retract the bit about L+N not mattering too much.

Why does it matter?

Because you don't want the large area of screw-cap to be live and the
small end contact to be neutral, if someone's changing a lamp with it
switched on.

On 27/04/18 22:51, Max Demian wrote:
On 27/04/2018 21:54, Tim Watts wrote:
On 27/04/18 21:16, ARW wrote:
On 27/04/2018 19:36, Andy Burns wrote:
ARW wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/8/85/How_wrong.jpg

Live wire to neutral terminal and vice-versa (not that a bulb cares)

It's an ES fitting!

It is? Oh - OK, then yes - I retract the bit about L+N not mattering
too much.

Why does it matter?


Have you ever looked at an ES bulb and its holder. If not, if you have
one, please take a look.

On older fittings, the outer contact is the metal screw thread. If
that's live, then the base of the bulb becomes live as soon as you start
to screw it in. At this point, you could be holding the metal base.

Some modern ES holders have insulating screw threads and a leaf contact
that doesn't mate until the bulb is pretty much home, at which point
it's hard to touch the bulb's metal base.

On 27/04/2018 19:36, Andy Burns wrote:
ARW wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/8/85/How_wrong.jpg

Live wire to neutral terminal and vice-versa (not that a bulb cares)

Earth wire not connected to earth terminal

No grommet where T&E passes through metal knockout

given how much slack T&E there is, the chock-block and 3" of wire (not
even flex) is quite pointless


Given that its a ceramic holder its probably designed for a hot
situation in which case the T&E shouldn't go there at all and heat
resistant cables should be used. On the other hand its only a CFL.

I wonder what wattage its rated at and how hot it gets when someone fits
a tungsten bulb?

On 27/04/2018 21:31, dennis@home wrote:
On 27/04/2018 19:36, Andy Burns wrote:
ARW wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/8/85/How_wrong.jpg

Live wire to neutral terminal and vice-versa (not that a bulb cares)

Earth wire not connected to earth terminal

No grommet where T&E passes through metal knockout

given how much slack T&E there is, the chock-block and 3" of wire (not
even flex) is quite pointless


Given that its a ceramic holder its probably designed for a hot
situation in which case the T&E shouldn't go there at all and heat
resistant cables should be used. On the other hand its only a CFL.

I wonder what wattage its rated at and how hot it gets when someone fits
a tungsten bulb?


60W rating, but it's never going to get a 60W lamp fitted.

And that CFL was shagged. It's now 9W LED. The old CFL gave 4 lux at the
wash hand basin (girls toilet) after 60 seconds. The new LED gives 74
lux at the same position instantly.



--
Adam

On 27/04/2018 21:59, ARW wrote:
On 27/04/2018 21:31, dennis@home wrote:
On 27/04/2018 19:36, Andy Burns wrote:
ARW wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/8/85/How_wrong.jpg

Live wire to neutral terminal and vice-versa (not that a bulb cares)

Earth wire not connected to earth terminal

No grommet where T&E passes through metal knockout

given how much slack T&E there is, the chock-block and 3" of wire
(not even flex) is quite pointless


Given that its a ceramic holder its probably designed for a hot
situation in which case the T&E shouldn't go there at all and heat
resistant cables should be used. On the other hand its only a CFL.

I wonder what wattage its rated at and how hot it gets when someone
fits a tungsten bulb?


60W rating, but it's never going to get a 60W lamp fitted.

And that CFL was shagged. It's now 9W LED. The old CFL gave 4 lux at the
wash hand basin (girls toilet) after 60 seconds. The new LED gives 74
lux at the same position instantly.




The problem with that is anyone can come along and put a 60W bulb in,
there is nothing to stop them.

It would be better to have a dedicated fitting without a bulb. Maybe a
small 12v LED panel?

On 27/04/2018 22:08, dennis@home wrote:
On 27/04/2018 21:59, ARW wrote:
On 27/04/2018 21:31, dennis@home wrote:
On 27/04/2018 19:36, Andy Burns wrote:
ARW wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/8/85/How_wrong.jpg

Live wire to neutral terminal and vice-versa (not that a bulb cares)

Earth wire not connected to earth terminal

No grommet where T&E passes through metal knockout

given how much slack T&E there is, the chock-block and 3" of wire
(not even flex) is quite pointless


Given that its a ceramic holder its probably designed for a hot
situation in which case the T&E shouldn't go there at all and heat
resistant cables should be used. On the other hand its only a CFL.

I wonder what wattage its rated at and how hot it gets when someone
fits a tungsten bulb?


60W rating, but it's never going to get a 60W lamp fitted.

And that CFL was shagged. It's now 9W LED. The old CFL gave 4 lux at
the wash hand basin (girls toilet) after 60 seconds. The new LED gives
74 lux at the same position instantly.




The problem with that is anyone can come along and put a 60W bulb in,
there is nothing to stop them.

It would be better to have a dedicated fitting without a bulb. Maybe a
small 12v LED panel?



Well the fitting is rated 60W so it does not matter if a 60W lamp is fitted.

--
Adam

On 27/04/18 22:08, dennis@home wrote:

The problem with that is anyone can come along and put a 60W bulb in,
there is nothing to stop them.

There's nothing to stop anyone putting a 100W bulb in either, or even a
150W if they bend the hold down a bit.

At some point, you need to label things - and a label that says "20W"
is as good as a label that says "=60W"

On 27/04/18 19:36, Andy Burns wrote:
ARW wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/8/85/How_wrong.jpg

Live wire to neutral terminal and vice-versa (not that a bulb cares)

Well spotted - though on that type of fitting, it probably doesn't
matter - compared to say an ES older style.

Earth wire not connected to earth terminal

That was the first one I saw...


No grommet where T&E passes through metal knockout

Debatable? The metal looks like it is turned over for a smooth edge. But
it never does any harm to have a grommet

given how much slack T&E there is, the chock-block and 3" of wire (not
even flex) is quite pointless


That didn't even occur to me - but now you've said it, yes: why the choc
block???

On 27/04/2018 19:28, ARW wrote:
Sorry Brian it is a photo, I'll talk you through it later when I have
more time.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/8/85/How_wrong.jpg

It would have been easier and faster to to the job right in the first
place. I now have to check all the fittings. BTW this was a DIY install.

Well at least the earth wire is sleeved!

On 27/04/2018 19:51, newshound wrote:
On 27/04/2018 19:28, ARW wrote:
Sorry Brian it is a photo, I'll talk you through it later when I have
more time.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/8/85/How_wrong.jpg

It would have been easier and faster to to the job right in the first
place. I now have to check all the fittings. BTW this was a DIY install.

Well at least the earth wire is sleeved!

Yeah, making absolutely sure there is no way it could come into contact
with the "must be earthed" metalwork of the fitting ;-)

--
Cheers,

John.

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