I'm in the process of re-furbishing a pair of pro loudspeakers for re-sale
and hopefully a vast profit. ;-)

Most of the ones I've seem before are teak veneer over plywood.

This pair have a factory black finish. But not like any black ash veneer
I've ever seen - I'm pretty certain it is just paint over the teak
original. But definitely a factory job by the original self adhesive
labels.

The paint has rubbed through on the odd edge showing the teak underneath.
Some blemishes too on the tops - but nothing too bad.

The paint is pretty thinly applied looking at the chips etc. And the grain
of the teak shows through. I'd describe the finish as satin. There's also
no sign of a different colour undercoat that I can see.

The backs of the speakers with the maker's labels are just fine so don't
need re-painting. So all I really need to do is a light sand of the tops,
and re-paint those.

But what sort of paint to use?

--
*I didn't like my beard at first. Then it grew on me.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 12-Apr-18 4:37 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I'm in the process of re-furbishing a pair of pro loudspeakers for re-sale
and hopefully a vast profit. ;-)

Most of the ones I've seem before are teak veneer over plywood.

This pair have a factory black finish. But not like any black ash veneer
I've ever seen - I'm pretty certain it is just paint over the teak
original. But definitely a factory job by the original self adhesive
labels.

The paint has rubbed through on the odd edge showing the teak underneath.
Some blemishes too on the tops - but nothing too bad.

The paint is pretty thinly applied looking at the chips etc. And the grain
of the teak shows through. I'd describe the finish as satin. There's also
no sign of a different colour undercoat that I can see.

The backs of the speakers with the maker's labels are just fine so don't
need re-painting. So all I really need to do is a light sand of the tops,
and re-paint those.

But what sort of paint to use?


Loudspeaker paint?

http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?...bheadnew=Paint

--
--

Colin Bignell

On 12/04/2018 16:37, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The backs of the speakers with the maker's labels are just fine so don't
need re-painting. So all I really need to do is a light sand of the tops,
and re-paint those.

But what sort of paint to use?

Probably an oil based satin finish black - though try out the proposed
paint first on a piece of thin scrap ply to check that the lustre is
right. Then try it on a bare bit of the real wood preferably out of
sight so that if it does something strange it won't show.

It is surprisingly difficult to match a colour and surface finish at the
same time. Even allowing for black being nominally an absence of light.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 12/04/2018 16:54, Martin Brown wrote:
On 12/04/2018 16:37, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The backs of the speakers with the maker's labels are just fine so don't
need re-painting. So all I really need to do is a light sand of the tops,
and re-paint those.

But what sort of paint to use?

Probably an oil based satin finish black - though try out the proposed
paint first on a piece of thin scrap ply to check that the lustre is
right. Then try it on a bare bit of the real wood preferably out of
sight so that if it does something strange it won't show.

It is surprisingly difficult to match a colour and surface finish at the
same time. Even allowing for black being nominally an absence of light.

A pretty good paint sprayer I know reckons black is the most difficult
colour to match or blend. I'd have thought it would have been white, but
apparently not.

On Thursday, 12 April 2018 16:37:54 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I'm in the process of re-furbishing a pair of pro loudspeakers for re-sale
and hopefully a vast profit. ;-)
But what sort of paint to use?

Is Annie Sloan chalk paint still fashionable, or have we moved on?

Or Black 2.0 or Vantablack if you can get it.

Owain

On Thursday, 12 April 2018 16:37:54 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I'm in the process of re-furbishing a pair of pro loudspeakers for re-sale
and hopefully a vast profit. ;-)

Most of the ones I've seem before are teak veneer over plywood.

This pair have a factory black finish. But not like any black ash veneer
I've ever seen - I'm pretty certain it is just paint over the teak
original. But definitely a factory job by the original self adhesive
labels.

The paint has rubbed through on the odd edge showing the teak underneath.
Some blemishes too on the tops - but nothing too bad.

The paint is pretty thinly applied looking at the chips etc. And the grain
of the teak shows through. I'd describe the finish as satin. There's also
no sign of a different colour undercoat that I can see.

The backs of the speakers with the maker's labels are just fine so don't
need re-painting. So all I really need to do is a light sand of the tops,
and re-paint those.

But what sort of paint to use?

Whatever you use, definitely spray it. I'd use any solvent based stuff.


NT

On 12/04/2018 16:37, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I'm in the process of re-furbishing a pair of pro loudspeakers for re-sale
and hopefully a vast profit. ;-)

Most of the ones I've seem before are teak veneer over plywood.

This pair have a factory black finish. But not like any black ash veneer
I've ever seen - I'm pretty certain it is just paint over the teak
original. But definitely a factory job by the original self adhesive
labels.

The paint has rubbed through on the odd edge showing the teak underneath.
Some blemishes too on the tops - but nothing too bad.

The paint is pretty thinly applied looking at the chips etc. And the grain
of the teak shows through. I'd describe the finish as satin. There's also
no sign of a different colour undercoat that I can see.

The backs of the speakers with the maker's labels are just fine so don't
need re-painting. So all I really need to do is a light sand of the tops,
and re-paint those.

But what sort of paint to use?

Just a thought, but I suspect that some devices from the days of my
youth actually used a black *stain* on top of teak or whatever, rather
than a paint. As someone else said, black is a bugger to match. If you
are trying to match up patches, a merit of stain is that you can
hand-apply it on a cloth and cotton wool pad. And even if you sand
everything back to clean wood, you can still get a good finish with hand
application instead of spraying.

In article ,
newshound wrote:
But what sort of paint to use?

Just a thought, but I suspect that some devices from the days of my
youth actually used a black *stain* on top of teak or whatever, rather
than a paint.

I wondered about that given the apparent lack of an undercoat and the very
prominent grain.

As someone else said, black is a bugger to match. If you
are trying to match up patches, a merit of stain is that you can
hand-apply it on a cloth and cotton wool pad. And even if you sand
everything back to clean wood, you can still get a good finish with hand
application instead of spraying.

Food for thought. Can't say I've ever seen black stain on sale - I'll have
to look. Certainly worth a punt on some scrap to see how it looks.

--
*Whatever kind of look you were going for, you missed.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thu, 12 Apr 2018 09:44:45 -0700 (PDT)
wrote:

On Thursday, 12 April 2018 16:37:54 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I'm in the process of re-furbishing a pair of pro loudspeakers for
re-sale and hopefully a vast profit. ;-)
But what sort of paint to use?

Is Annie Sloan chalk paint still fashionable, or have we moved on?

I wish. The number of nice old chairs etc. I see on eBay that have been
"upcycled" (i.e. had the patina destroyed) with Annie Sloan used as a
supposed selling point ...

On Thu, 12 Apr 2018 16:37:39 +0100
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

I'm in the process of re-furbishing a pair of pro loudspeakers for
re-sale and hopefully a vast profit. ;-)

Most of the ones I've seem before are teak veneer over plywood.

This pair have a factory black finish. But not like any black ash
veneer I've ever seen - I'm pretty certain it is just paint over the
teak original. But definitely a factory job by the original self
adhesive labels.

The paint has rubbed through on the odd edge showing the teak
underneath. Some blemishes too on the tops - but nothing too bad.

The paint is pretty thinly applied looking at the chips etc. And the
grain of the teak shows through. I'd describe the finish as satin.
There's also no sign of a different colour undercoat that I can see.

The backs of the speakers with the maker's labels are just fine so
don't need re-painting. So all I really need to do is a light sand of
the tops, and re-paint those.

But what sort of paint to use?

I got some satin black paint from Wilko a while back that went on
nicely. I'd try brushing a couple of light coats first, with perhaps a
light rub down with wire-wool - spraying edges without over-spraying
the rest won't be easy.

On 13/04/2018 23:54, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
newshound wrote:
But what sort of paint to use?

Just a thought, but I suspect that some devices from the days of my
youth actually used a black *stain* on top of teak or whatever, rather
than a paint.

I wondered about that given the apparent lack of an undercoat and the very
prominent grain.

As someone else said, black is a bugger to match. If you
are trying to match up patches, a merit of stain is that you can
hand-apply it on a cloth and cotton wool pad. And even if you sand
everything back to clean wood, you can still get a good finish with hand
application instead of spraying.

Food for thought. Can't say I've ever seen black stain on sale - I'll have
to look. Certainly worth a punt on some scrap to see how it looks.

It's certainly around. I used to have some once which was spirit based
and halfway between a stain and a varnish, so it left a waterproof finish.

On 13/04/2018 23:54, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Food for thought. Can't say I've ever seen black stain on sale - I'll have
to look. Certainly worth a punt on some scrap to see how it looks.



Has the black stain of yesteryear been re-formulated so it no longer
works as well as the stuff you could obtain when the speakers were made?

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Sun, 15 Apr 2018 10:13:55 +0100
alan_m wrote:

Has the black stain of yesteryear been re-formulated so it no longer
works as well as the stuff you could obtain when the speakers were
made?

Isn't just about everything heading towards a "solvent-free" world where
things no longer kill us, we just wish they did because things that used
to work well are now rubbish/hard work?

In article 20180418182133.6433e30f@Mars,
Rob Morley wrote:
On Sun, 15 Apr 2018 10:13:55 +0100
alan_m wrote:

Has the black stain of yesteryear been re-formulated so it no longer
works as well as the stuff you could obtain when the speakers were
made?

Isn't just about everything heading towards a "solvent-free" world where
things no longer kill us, we just wish they did because things that used
to work well are now rubbish/hard work?

Aided an abetted by business. Since something that doesn't work as well
will need replacing more frequently. Which does make me wonder who
initiates these 'H&S' type things.

--
*If horrific means to make horrible, does terrific mean to make terrible?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 18/04/2018 18:21, Rob Morley wrote:
On Sun, 15 Apr 2018 10:13:55 +0100
alan_m wrote:

Has the black stain of yesteryear been re-formulated so it no longer
works as well as the stuff you could obtain when the speakers were
made?

Isn't just about everything heading towards a "solvent-free" world where
things no longer kill us, we just wish they did because things that used
to work well are now rubbish/hard work?

Yeah, like Tipp-Ex. Takes ages to dry.

--
Max Demian