I'm looking to route some appliance cables (microwave, lights, radio etc
- I'll keep it to 13A max though - the feed is to an extension block)
through the kitchen worktop to tidy things up and free up sockets above
the counter. The grommet would be out of sight - behind the microwave
for example.

I bought one of these 80mm, just to see:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//321759119678

It's fine, but a bit flimsy - the cover could pop off quite easily. And
possibly 60mm would do it.

Anyone experience of similar?

--
Cheers, Rob

RJH wrote:
I'm looking to route some appliance cables (microwave, lights, radio etc
- I'll keep it to 13A max though - the feed is to an extension block)
through the kitchen worktop to tidy things up and free up sockets above
the counter. The grommet would be out of sight - behind the microwave
for example.

I bought one of these 80mm, just to see:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//321759119678

It's fine, but a bit flimsy - the cover could pop off quite easily. And
possibly 60mm would do it.

Anyone experience of similar?

I have one behind the TV for power and hdmi cables. Seems fine to me?

On 03/03/18 13:25, RJH wrote:
I'm looking to route some appliance cables (microwave, lights, radio etc
- I'll keep it to 13A max though - the feed is to an extension block)
through the kitchen worktop to tidy things up and free up sockets above
the counter. The grommet would be out of sight - behind the microwave
for example.

I bought one of these 80mm, just to see:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//321759119678

It's fine, but a bit flimsy - the cover could pop off quite easily. And
possibly 60mm would do it.

Anyone experience of similar?


You bought standard office deck cable covers and yes, they are useless.


What about a brush seal:
https://www.pducables.com/airblock-4...-brush-grommet ?

(sure you could find those in the UK with a bit of ebay wibbling)

On Saturday, 3 March 2018 13:25:50 UTC, RJH wrote:
It's fine, but a bit flimsy - the cover could pop off quite easily. And
possibly 60mm would do it.

You can get them in solid metal eg

https://www.midselec.co.uk/tass-80mm...k-grommet.html

https://www.alldoorhandles.com/Carli...able-Tidy.html

Owain

On Saturday, 3 March 2018 13:25:50 UTC, RJH wrote:
I'm looking to route some appliance cables (microwave, lights, radio etc
- I'll keep it to 13A max though - the feed is to an extension block)
through the kitchen worktop to tidy things up and free up sockets above
the counter. The grommet would be out of sight - behind the microwave
for example.

I bought one of these 80mm, just to see:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//321759119678

It's fine, but a bit flimsy - the cover could pop off quite easily. And
possibly 60mm would do it.

Anyone experience of similar?

why do people use those? It makes a 1cm hole into an 8cm hole


NT

On Saturday, 3 March 2018 18:33:28 UTC, wrote:
why do people use those? It makes a 1cm hole into an 8cm hole

So you can fit the moulded 13A plug through without cutting it off, throwing it away (responsibly), finding a spare plug and stripping the flex to fit it.

Owain

wrote:

On Saturday, 3 March 2018 13:25:50 UTC, RJH wrote:
I'm looking to route some appliance cables (microwave, lights, radio etc
- I'll keep it to 13A max though - the feed is to an extension block)
through the kitchen worktop to tidy things up and free up sockets above
the counter. The grommet would be out of sight - behind the microwave
for example.

I bought one of these 80mm, just to see:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//321759119678

It's fine, but a bit flimsy - the cover could pop off quite easily. And
possibly 60mm would do it.

Anyone experience of similar?

why do people use those? It makes a 1cm hole into an 8cm hole


NT

To save the effort of (or in a corporate situation the maintenance visit
for) replacing the plugs.


--

Roger Hayter

On 03/03/2018 13:25, RJH wrote:
I'm looking to route some appliance cables (microwave, lights, radio etc
- I'll keep it to 13A max though - the feed is to an extension block)
through the kitchen worktop to tidy things up and free up sockets above
the counter. The grommet would be out of sight - behind the microwave
for example.

I bought one of these 80mm, just to see:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//321759119678

It's fine, but a bit flimsy - the cover could pop off quite easily. And
possibly 60mm would do it.

If you take/cut off the plugs you just have to be able to poke the wires
through a very much smaller hole. Use a bit of waste pipe or plastic
electrical conduit. It comes in various diameters but 32mm or smaller
may do. Drill the hole, seal the cut with external use PVA, insert the
pipe leaving it proud of the work surface by, say, 15mm, silicone around
the pipe to provide a waterproof seal to stop water dripping down the
hole/cable when cleaning the worktop, let everything dry/cure, feed the
wires through the pipe and re-attach the plugs.




--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 03/03/2018 19:23, Roger Hayter wrote:


To save the effort of (or in a corporate situation the maintenance visit
for) replacing the plugs.



In an office environment they are often hidden behind the computer or
monitor. Fitted to a kitchen worktop it looks like a messy bodge

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 03/03/2018 21:10, alan_m wrote:
On 03/03/2018 19:23, Roger Hayter wrote:


To save the effort of (or in a corporate situation the maintenance visit
for) replacing the plugs.



In an office environment they are often hidden behind the computer or
monitor. Fitted to a kitchen worktop it looks like a messy bodge


Well you either comply with wiring regs, or do as I do and have sockets
fitted below the worktop where you can't reach them without pulling out
some of the appliances. And then rely on having a CU breaker labelled
"Kitchen ring main" to provide isolation on faults.

On 03/03/2018 21:04, alan_m wrote:
On 03/03/2018 13:25, RJH wrote:
I'm looking to route some appliance cables (microwave, lights, radio
etc - I'll keep it to 13A max though - the feed is to an extension
block) through the kitchen worktop to tidy things up and free up
sockets above the counter. The grommet would be out of sight - behind
the microwave for example.

I bought one of these 80mm, just to see:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//321759119678

It's fine, but a bit flimsy - the cover could pop off quite easily.
And possibly 60mm would do it.

If you take/cut off the plugs you just have to be able to poke the wires
through a very much smaller hole. Use a bit of waste pipe or plastic
electrical conduit. It comes in various diameters but 32mm or smaller
may do. Drill the hole, seal the cut with external use PVA, insert the
pipe leaving it proud of the work surface by, say, 15mm, silicone around
the pipe to provide a waterproof seal to stop water dripping down the
hole/cable when cleaning the worktop, let everything dry/cure, feed the
wires through the pipe and re-attach the plugs.




But moulded-on plugs are *much* more reliable, especially for high load
appliances like washing machines, dishwashers, and tumble dryers.

On 03/03/18 21:54, newshound wrote:
On 03/03/2018 21:10, alan_m wrote:
On 03/03/2018 19:23, Roger Hayter wrote:


To save the effort of (or in a corporate situation the maintenance visit
for) replacing the plugs.



In an office environment they are often hidden behind the computer or
monitor. Fitted to a kitchen worktop it looks like a messy bodge


Well you either comply with wiring regs, or do as I do and have sockets
fitted below the worktop where you can't reach them without pulling out
some of the appliances. And then rely on having a CU breaker labelled
"Kitchen ring main" to provide isolation on faults.

The usual way to handle that is to have a 20A DP worktop level isolator
switch on each socket that's inaccessible.

On 3/3/2018 5:35 PM, Tim Watts wrote:
On 03/03/18 21:54, newshound wrote:

Well you either comply with wiring regs, or do as I do and have
sockets fitted below the worktop where you can't reach them without
pulling out some of the appliances. And then rely on having a CU
breaker labelled "Kitchen ring main" to provide isolation on faults.

The usual way to handle that is to have a 20A DP worktop level isolator
switch on each socket that's inaccessible.

Yes. That's what we did.

On Sat, 03 Mar 2018 18:49:11 -0500, S Viemeister wrote:

On 3/3/2018 5:35 PM, Tim Watts wrote:
On 03/03/18 21:54, newshound wrote:

Well you either comply with wiring regs, or do as I do and have
sockets fitted below the worktop where you can't reach them without
pulling out some of the appliances. And then rely on having a CU
breaker labelled "Kitchen ring main" to provide isolation on faults.

The usual way to handle that is to have a 20A DP worktop level isolator
switch on each socket that's inaccessible.

Yes. That's what we did.

Me too.



--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Sat, 03 Mar 2018 21:56:35 +0000, newshound wrote:

On 03/03/2018 21:04, alan_m wrote:
On 03/03/2018 13:25, RJH wrote:
I'm looking to route some appliance cables (microwave, lights, radio
etc - I'll keep it to 13A max though - the feed is to an extension
block) through the kitchen worktop to tidy things up and free up
sockets above the counter. The grommet would be out of sight - behind
the microwave for example.

I bought one of these 80mm, just to see:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//321759119678

It's fine, but a bit flimsy - the cover could pop off quite easily.
And possibly 60mm would do it.

If you take/cut off the plugs you just have to be able to poke the
wires through a very much smaller hole. Use a bit of waste pipe or
plastic electrical conduit. It comes in various diameters but 32mm or
smaller may do. Drill the hole, seal the cut with external use PVA,
insert the pipe leaving it proud of the work surface by, say, 15mm,
silicone around the pipe to provide a waterproof seal to stop water
dripping down the hole/cable when cleaning the worktop, let everything
dry/cure, feed the wires through the pipe and re-attach the plugs.

But moulded-on plugs are *much* more reliable, especially for high load
appliances like washing machines, dishwashers, and tumble dryers.

The blindingly obvious solution is to undo the cable from the appliance
end (Fridges, dishwashers, washing machines and tumble driers, all have
their mains cords terminated on screw terminal blocks with re-usable cord
grips - plugs may be moulded on but the mains cords most definitely are a
user replaceable item) and thread that end carefully through the 8 or
10mm hole or channel in the plaster on the back edge of the worktop
immediately below the mains socket (making sure of not plugging it into
said socket until *after* you've reconnected it to the appliance) and
"Bob's Your Uncle!".

Simples, really. :-)

This is how I installed our under-worktop fridge over 15 years ago. It's
a nice neat solution (cable disappears into a 10mm hole channelled into
the plaster behind the worktop about 4 or 5 inches immediately below the
socket). There's plenty of slack to pull the fridge clear for cleaning
its heat exchanger pipework and the area behind. It saves the cost of a
generic replacement plug, retaining the original and nicer looking colour
matched moulded on plug.

In many cases, it's easier to reterminate the original cable to the
appliance than it is to chop off a perfectly serviceable moulded on plug
to replace it with a generic plug. There's no need to strip off the outer
insulation and then trim the wires to length and bare them for fiddling
them onto the plug terminals. All that preparation work has already been
done for you at the appliance end by the manufacturer, leaving you the
simple task of reterminating the preformed end of the cable you'd just
removed and securing the cable clamp strain relief. Indeed, its not
difficult to make it look as though the connections had never been
disturbed in the first place.

If you're worried you might get the live and neutral wired arse about
face (the yellow/green earth wire terminal location is usually blindingly
obvious), you can take a few snapshots with almost any cheap and cheerful
digital camera (dedicated or built into your typical and ubiquitous
"SmartFone" these days) to make a photographic record of the original
wiring layout before you start pulling it apart.

Hint: the built in flash typically ruins more than it enhances most
amateur attempts to photographically document such work.

--
Johnny B Good

On Saturday, 3 March 2018 19:21:00 UTC, wrote:
On Saturday, 3 March 2018 18:33:28 UTC, tabby wrote:

why do people use those? It makes a 1cm hole into an 8cm hole

So you can fit the moulded 13A plug through without cutting it off, throwing it away (responsibly), finding a spare plug and stripping the flex to fit it.

Owain

Far quicker to replace the plug, and a far less ugly result.
Even better put some sockets where you won't have to drill holes in the worktop.


NT

On Saturday, 3 March 2018 21:56:37 UTC, newshound wrote:
But moulded-on plugs are *much* more reliable, especially for high load
appliances like washing machines, dishwashers, and tumble dryers.

Oh, I needed a laugh, after going four miles yesterday in search of milk.

Owain

In article ,
wrote:
On Saturday, 3 March 2018 19:21:00 UTC, wrote:
On Saturday, 3 March 2018 18:33:28 UTC, tabby wrote:

why do people use those? It makes a 1cm hole into an 8cm hole

So you can fit the moulded 13A plug through without cutting it off,
throwing it away (responsibly), finding a spare plug and stripping the
flex to fit it.

Owain

Far quicker to replace the plug, and a far less ugly result. Even better
put some sockets where you won't have to drill holes in the worktop.

Tha's fine if you are starting from scratch. If you are retro-fitting
appliances, then the OP suggestion is the easiest way to go.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On Sunday, 4 March 2018 09:18:38 UTC, charles wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 3 March 2018 19:21:00 UTC, wrote:
On Saturday, 3 March 2018 18:33:28 UTC, tabby wrote:

why do people use those? It makes a 1cm hole into an 8cm hole

So you can fit the moulded 13A plug through without cutting it off,
throwing it away (responsibly), finding a spare plug and stripping the
flex to fit it.

Owain

Far quicker to replace the plug, and a far less ugly result. Even better
put some sockets where you won't have to drill holes in the worktop.

Tha's fine if you are starting from scratch. If you are retro-fitting
appliances, then the OP suggestion is the easiest way to go.

from where I'm sat it's obvious that it's not. But each to their own.

Johnny B Good wrote:

Hint: the built in flash typically ruins more than it enhances most
amateur attempts to photographically document such work.

Absolutely agree, I always switch to 'never use flash' as my default
setting and very rarely need to enable it.

--
Chris Green
·

On 03/03/2018 23:49, S Viemeister wrote:
On 3/3/2018 5:35 PM, Tim Watts wrote:
On 03/03/18 21:54, newshound wrote:

Well you either comply with wiring regs, or do as I do and have
sockets fitted below the worktop where you can't reach them without
pulling out some of the appliances. And then rely on having a CU
breaker labelled "Kitchen ring main" to provide isolation on faults.

The usual way to handle that is to have a 20A DP worktop level
isolator switch on each socket that's inaccessible.

Yes. That's what we did.

Significantly more work and hardware to do that though. In my kitchen I
have a long run of worktop just below a wide window, so there was no
vertical space to do that. Admittedly non-compliant, but in the 28 years
since I did it I don't think I have ever needed to isolate one of the
appliances. I agree that it is non-ideal since you may miss an
overheating plug or socket that might be revealed by colour change. But
not had one of those there either.

On 04/03/2018 02:28, Johnny B Good wrote:
On Sat, 03 Mar 2018 21:56:35 +0000, newshound wrote:

On 03/03/2018 21:04, alan_m wrote:
On 03/03/2018 13:25, RJH wrote:
I'm looking to route some appliance cables (microwave, lights, radio
etc - I'll keep it to 13A max though - the feed is to an extension
block) through the kitchen worktop to tidy things up and free up
sockets above the counter. The grommet would be out of sight - behind
the microwave for example.

I bought one of these 80mm, just to see:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//321759119678

It's fine, but a bit flimsy - the cover could pop off quite easily.
And possibly 60mm would do it.

If you take/cut off the plugs you just have to be able to poke the
wires through a very much smaller hole. Use a bit of waste pipe or
plastic electrical conduit. It comes in various diameters but 32mm or
smaller may do. Drill the hole, seal the cut with external use PVA,
insert the pipe leaving it proud of the work surface by, say, 15mm,
silicone around the pipe to provide a waterproof seal to stop water
dripping down the hole/cable when cleaning the worktop, let everything
dry/cure, feed the wires through the pipe and re-attach the plugs.

But moulded-on plugs are *much* more reliable, especially for high load
appliances like washing machines, dishwashers, and tumble dryers.

The blindingly obvious solution is to undo the cable from the appliance
end (Fridges, dishwashers, washing machines and tumble driers, all have
their mains cords terminated on screw terminal blocks with re-usable cord
grips - plugs may be moulded on but the mains cords most definitely are a
user replaceable item) and thread that end carefully through the 8 or
10mm hole or channel in the plaster on the back edge of the worktop
immediately below the mains socket (making sure of not plugging it into
said socket until *after* you've reconnected it to the appliance) and
"Bob's Your Uncle!".

Yes, I have done that once or twice. Good point.

On 04/03/2018 09:13, wrote:
On Saturday, 3 March 2018 21:56:37 UTC, newshound wrote:
But moulded-on plugs are *much* more reliable, especially for high load
appliances like washing machines, dishwashers, and tumble dryers.

Oh, I needed a laugh, after going four miles yesterday in search of milk.

Owain


?

On Sunday, 4 March 2018 14:55:32 UTC, newshound wrote:
But moulded-on plugs are *much* more reliable, especially for high load
appliances like washing machines, dishwashers, and tumble dryers.
Oh, I needed a laugh, after going four miles yesterday in search of milk.
?

1. I don't agree that moulded on plugs are more reliable at all.

2. It's been a bit snowy up here and the local supermarkets had no milk left.

Owain

On 04/03/2018 16:22, wrote:
On Sunday, 4 March 2018 14:55:32 UTC, newshound wrote:
But moulded-on plugs are *much* more reliable, especially for high load
appliances like washing machines, dishwashers, and tumble dryers.
Oh, I needed a laugh, after going four miles yesterday in search of milk.
?

1. I don't agree that moulded on plugs are more reliable at all.


Well, I have never had one fail. But I have had a number of failures
with conventional plugs. My only complaint about them is that too many
of them are black.

On Sun, 04 Mar 2018 16:53:39 +0000, newshound wrote:

On 04/03/2018 16:22, wrote:
On Sunday, 4 March 2018 14:55:32 UTC, newshound wrote:
But moulded-on plugs are *much* more reliable, especially for high
load appliances like washing machines, dishwashers, and tumble
dryers.
Oh, I needed a laugh, after going four miles yesterday in search of
milk.
?

1. I don't agree that moulded on plugs are more reliable at all.


Well, I have never had one fail. But I have had a number of failures
with conventional plugs. My only complaint about them is that too many
of them are black.

I can't see any reason why a properly designed moulded on plug should be
*less* reliable than a replaceable plug with its screw terminals and
single cord grip strain relief where some mechanical forces can still
pass through to the terminations due to the 'wriggle room' within the
plug's wiring channels.

The moulded on plug uses welded connections and the wires and their
welds are entirely buried in the plug mouldings right through to the
strain relief. You should be able to use a moulded plug kettle lead as a
'flail' to batter an intruder into unconsciousness with the 13A plug end
before using it to connect your kettle up afterwards for a nice calming
brew whilst you await the arrival of the police to deal with your
unexpected trespasser. :-)

Whilst you might be able to use a duraplug ended cord a few times as a
temporary weapon, the moulded plug lead could be used like this
indefinitely until sheer wear and tear from its primary use eventually,
if ever, takes its inevitable toll on the cordage itself.

That's not to say that some manufacturers might find a way to totally
**** up the concept of an everlasting plug for the sake of corner cutting
on materials costs in a manufacturing process that virtually guarantees
an indestructible moulded on plug. However, I'd expect such plugs would
be easy enough to identify by feel and their heft (more likely to appear
on cheap items such as extension leads and hand held kit rather on
domestic white goods). I rather think they'd have to be pretty 'shonky'
to be less robust than the typical re-wireable plug.

--
Johnny B Good

On Sun, 04 Mar 2018 17:57:26 GMT, Johnny B Good
wrote:

On Sun, 04 Mar 2018 16:53:39 +0000, newshound wrote:

On 04/03/2018 16:22, wrote:
On Sunday, 4 March 2018 14:55:32 UTC, newshound wrote:
But moulded-on plugs are *much* more reliable, especially for high
load appliances like washing machines, dishwashers, and tumble
dryers.
Oh, I needed a laugh, after going four miles yesterday in search of
milk.
?

1. I don't agree that moulded on plugs are more reliable at all.


Well, I have never had one fail. But I have had a number of failures
with conventional plugs. My only complaint about them is that too many
of them are black.

I can't see any reason why a properly designed moulded on plug should be
*less* reliable than a replaceable plug with its screw terminals and
single cord grip strain relief where some mechanical forces can still
pass through to the terminations due to the 'wriggle room' within the
plug's wiring channels.

The moulded on plug uses welded connections and the wires and their
welds are entirely buried in the plug mouldings right through to the
strain relief.
Had a few one the outer insulation of the flex had cracked possibly
because there was no give where it entered the plug top itself, and on
one occasion I found one where a conductor had fractured.




That's not to say that some manufacturers might find a way to totally
**** up the concept of an everlasting plug for the sake of corner cutting
on materials costs in a manufacturing process that virtually guarantees
an indestructible moulded on plug. However, I'd expect such plugs would
be easy enough to identify by feel and their heft .

There was someting quite a few years where some item(s) were found to
have sub standard moulded on plugs, A fine strand or two of the
conductors had escaped from whever they should be terminated and the
strand ends terminated level with the mould material where to a
normal glance they lurked unnoticed waiting to give a hand an expected
jolt.

G.Harman

On 04/03/18 16:53, newshound wrote:
On 04/03/2018 16:22, wrote:
On Sunday, 4 March 2018 14:55:32 UTC, newshoundÂ* wrote:
But moulded-on plugs are *much* more reliable, especially for high
load
appliances like washing machines, dishwashers, and tumble dryers.
Oh, I needed a laugh, after going four miles yesterday in search of
milk.
?

1. I don't agree that moulded on plugs are more reliable at all.


Well, I have never had one fail. But I have had a number of failures
with conventional plugs.

Me too - but only with high power equipment with crappy supplied plugs
like heaters. I usually switch on sight to MK (with the mushroom
screws), Duraplugs or Permaplugs, none of which give me any trouble.