On Sat, 03 Mar 2018 21:56:35 +0000, newshound wrote:
On 03/03/2018 21:04, alan_m wrote:
On 03/03/2018 13:25, RJH wrote:
I'm looking to route some appliance cables (microwave, lights, radio
etc - I'll keep it to 13A max though - the feed is to an extension
block) through the kitchen worktop to tidy things up and free up
sockets above the counter. The grommet would be out of sight - behind
the microwave for example.
I bought one of these 80mm, just to see:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//321759119678
It's fine, but a bit flimsy - the cover could pop off quite easily.
And possibly 60mm would do it.
If you take/cut off the plugs you just have to be able to poke the
wires through a very much smaller hole. Use a bit of waste pipe or
plastic electrical conduit. It comes in various diameters but 32mm or
smaller may do. Drill the hole, seal the cut with external use PVA,
insert the pipe leaving it proud of the work surface by, say, 15mm,
silicone around the pipe to provide a waterproof seal to stop water
dripping down the hole/cable when cleaning the worktop, let everything
dry/cure, feed the wires through the pipe and re-attach the plugs.
But moulded-on plugs are *much* more reliable, especially for high load
appliances like washing machines, dishwashers, and tumble dryers.
The blindingly obvious solution is to undo the cable from the appliance
end (Fridges, dishwashers, washing machines and tumble driers, all have
their mains cords terminated on screw terminal blocks with re-usable cord
grips - plugs may be moulded on but the mains cords most definitely are a
user replaceable item) and thread that end carefully through the 8 or
10mm hole or channel in the plaster on the back edge of the worktop
immediately below the mains socket (making sure of not plugging it into
said socket until *after* you've reconnected it to the appliance) and
"Bob's Your Uncle!".
Simples, really. :-)
This is how I installed our under-worktop fridge over 15 years ago. It's
a nice neat solution (cable disappears into a 10mm hole channelled into
the plaster behind the worktop about 4 or 5 inches immediately below the
socket). There's plenty of slack to pull the fridge clear for cleaning
its heat exchanger pipework and the area behind. It saves the cost of a
generic replacement plug, retaining the original and nicer looking colour
matched moulded on plug.
In many cases, it's easier to reterminate the original cable to the
appliance than it is to chop off a perfectly serviceable moulded on plug
to replace it with a generic plug. There's no need to strip off the outer
insulation and then trim the wires to length and bare them for fiddling
them onto the plug terminals. All that preparation work has already been
done for you at the appliance end by the manufacturer, leaving you the
simple task of reterminating the preformed end of the cable you'd just
removed and securing the cable clamp strain relief. Indeed, its not
difficult to make it look as though the connections had never been
disturbed in the first place.
If you're worried you might get the live and neutral wired arse about
face (the yellow/green earth wire terminal location is usually blindingly
obvious), you can take a few snapshots with almost any cheap and cheerful
digital camera (dedicated or built into your typical and ubiquitous
"SmartFone" these days) to make a photographic record of the original
wiring layout before you start pulling it apart.
Hint: the built in flash typically ruins more than it enhances most
amateur attempts to photographically document such work.
--
Johnny B Good