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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Charging a car battery
I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple
of months. No doubt the battery will eventually need a charge but do I really have to disconnect it as current [pun not intended] advice seems to indicate? If I do, I will, no doubt, have a whole lot of setting up to do on the various electronics. It's many moons since I last charged a car battery and at that time I just clamped the charger leads on and let it get on with it. -- F |
#2
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Charging a car battery
On 08/02/2018 11:53, F wrote:
It's many moons since I last charged a car battery and at that time I just clamped the charger leads on and let it get on with it. That's what I do. |
#3
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Charging a car battery
On Thu, 8 Feb 2018 11:53:05 +0000, F news@nowhere wrote:
I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. I often don't touch the kitcar (or several motorbikes) for many months and they all normally start ok ... so it very much depends on the parastatic load. No doubt the battery will eventually need a charge *Eventually* yes. ;-) but do I really have to disconnect it as current [pun not intended] advice seems to indicate? If you do then you can probably guarantee (depending on the state of charge of battery on disconnection and it's general condition) it should be ok when needed next. If I do, I will, no doubt, have a whole lot of setting up to do on the various electronics. Radio code, what else OOI? It's many moons since I last charged a car battery and at that time I just clamped the charger leads on and let it get on with it. If the car has a reasonable parastatic load (alarm etc) you will need to do something so what you do (charge as is or with the battery disconnected) is down to how easy it is to reset said 'electronics'? Cheers, T i m |
#4
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Charging a car battery
On Thu, 08 Feb 2018 12:28:16 +0000, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 8 Feb 2018 11:53:05 +0000, F news@nowhere wrote: I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. I often don't touch the kitcar (or several motorbikes) for many months and they all normally start ok ... so it very much depends on the parastatic load. Sorry, 'parasitic' ... Cheers, T i m |
#5
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Charging a car battery
Huge wrote:
the reason people suggest disconnecting the battery is that most modern cars have a substantial current drain even when switched off (I've measured it at several hundred milliamperes). Though they do progressively shutdown more and more systems over the course of hours/days/weeks. |
#6
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Charging a car battery
On 08/02/2018 11:53, F wrote:
I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. No doubt the battery will eventually need a charge but do I really have to disconnect it as current [pun not intended] advice seems to indicate? If I do, I will, no doubt, have a whole lot of setting up to do on the various electronics. It's many moons since I last charged a car battery and at that time I just clamped the charger leads on and let it get on with it. With a decent, modern, well-regulated charger, it isn't an issue. With an old, poorly regulated, poorly rectified one I'd be more cautious. CTEK ones are great, and designed to be used like this, and you can get leads you permanently connect to the car that end in a socket that mates with the charger; I regularly charge the battery on my other half's car like this (she doesn't use it much). |
#7
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Charging a car battery
On 08/02/2018 12:26, Huge wrote:
On 2018-02-08, Huge wrote: On 2018-02-08, F news@nowhere wrote: I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. No doubt the battery will eventually need a charge but do I really have to disconnect it as current [pun not intended] advice seems to indicate? P.S. re-reading your posting, the reason people suggest disconnecting the battery is that most modern cars have a substantial current drain even when switched off (I've measured it at several hundred milliamperes). This will rapidly flatten and then ruin a car battery. Which is why I use a float/trickle charger (sometimes called a "battery conditioner"). No. My 'race' car sits for months in the garage with its battery connected to the car and a 'el cheapo' float charger from eBay. The latter was an experiment, following the 'el expensivo' float charger (an AirFlow one, IIRC) that went mad and boiled the lawn mower battery dry. Asking around, lots of other people recommended other expensive chargers, for prices that I thought were nonsense (£50+), so I bought 2 of these; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182929657441 The car's been on one of them for 3 months now, and has been fine. The other one awaits me buying a new lawn mower battery. That's exactly what I would have suggested, always assuming you have mains accessible to the parking place. If not, remove battery and either leave it on a trickle charger, or on an ordinary one for a few hours every month or so. |
#8
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
F news@nowhere wrote: I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. No doubt the battery will eventually need a charge but do I really have to disconnect it as current [pun not intended] advice seems to indicate? If I do, I will, no doubt, have a whole lot of setting up to do on the various electronics. With a half decent modern ordinary charger, just leave the battery connected. The problem can occur with a commercial fast charger - the type that can start a car with a flat battery immediately. Which might chuck out enough volts to damage electronics. I have one of those excellent 13 quid Lidl chargers installed in the old car and hard wired to a fusebox. With a waterproof mains connector under the bumper. Allowing the battery to be charged with the car still secure. -- *Kill one man and you're a murderer, kill a million youand 're a conqueror. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#9
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
Huge wrote: P.S. re-reading your posting, the reason people suggest disconnecting the battery is that most modern cars have a substantial current drain even when switched off (I've measured it at several hundred milliamperes). This will rapidly flatten and then ruin a car battery. Which is why I use a float/trickle charger (sometimes called a "battery conditioner"). If you take a fairly normal (large) 75 amp hour battery, a drain of 1 amp would flatten it in 3 days. Pro rata for a lower current. And it would fail to start before the battery was totally flat. Most cars can last about 3 weeks without being run. Which would suggest a quiescent current draw of rather under 100mA. But it may be higher until the electrics finally go to sleep. -- *Do they ever shut up on your planet? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#10
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
T i m wrote: On Thu, 08 Feb 2018 12:28:16 +0000, T i m wrote: On Thu, 8 Feb 2018 11:53:05 +0000, F news@nowhere wrote: I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. I often don't touch the kitcar (or several motorbikes) for many months and they all normally start ok ... so it very much depends on the parastatic load. Sorry, 'parasitic' ... Quiescent. It is necessary ;-) -- *How can I miss you if you won't go away? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#11
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
Chris Bartram wrote: With a decent, modern, well-regulated charger, it isn't an issue. With an old, poorly regulated, poorly rectified one I'd be more cautious. Assuming the battery isn't knackered, the internal impedance will stop most chargers doing anything silly. Excepting a very powerful garage type one. -- *This message has been ROT-13 encrypted twice for extra security * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#12
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Charging a car battery
On Thu, 08 Feb 2018 12:23:15 +0000, Huge wrote:
On 2018-02-08, F news@nowhere wrote: I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. No doubt the battery will eventually need a charge but do I really have to disconnect it as current [pun not intended] advice seems to indicate? No. My 'race' car sits for months in the garage with its battery connected to the car and a 'el cheapo' float charger from eBay. The latter was an experiment, following the 'el expensivo' float charger (an AirFlow one, IIRC) that went mad and boiled the lawn mower battery dry. Asking around, lots of other people recommended other expensive chargers, for prices that I thought were nonsense (£50+), so I bought 2 of these; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182929657441 The car's been on one of them for 3 months now, and has been fine. The other one awaits me buying a new lawn mower battery. You need to be aware that SLI LA batteries aren't designed to cope with continuous float charging for month after month after month periods at the classic (and seemingly more benign) 13.8v level. Six months seemed to be the point where such 'gentle float charging' would ruin them (a bunch of four connected to an APC SmartUPS2000 2KVA/1500W rated UPS... Twice!). Another problem is the lack of stirring of the electrolyte to prevent stratification. Surprisingly, the apparently rough treatment meted out by the alternator's 14.0 to 14.2 float charging and the vibrations and accelerations of a moving vehicle all conspire to maintain the battery in peak condition. The high voltage 'float charging' under these normal conditions of use, rarely top more than 3 or 4 hours per day, unlike the unremitting regime of a permanently connected 13.8v battery charger. You really only need to stop the battery voltage dipping below the 12.7v mark so a basic 13.8v constant voltage charger can be used with a 6A or higher rated silicon diode to drop the charging voltage down to the 13.1v mark if you can't get hold of a 13.5v constant voltage charger. Alternatively, a "Smart charger" that can boost the battery voltage to 14v for half an hour every 24 hours that just monitors the battery voltage during the other 23.5 hours of the day to make sure it doesn't drop below 12.6v in between these brief bursts of freshening charges is probably the best you can do to maintain the battery in a healthy state. You won't be able to prevent stratification of the electrolyte unless you're prepared to remove the battery onto a stirring platform or else are prepared to set the burst charge rate to 15 or 16 volts to induce gassing and the need to top up with distilled water every other week or so. Probably the simplest "Fit 'n' Forget" solution is to use a standard 13.8v charger designed to maintain SLA batteries which can tolerate this constant voltage float charging regimen (even better if 13.5v is used) with a simple silicon diode volt dropper to hold the battery at a constant 13.1v for the duration. An alternatively "Cheap 'n' Cheerful" solution, if you already have a simple unregulated transformer/rectifier battery charger to hand, is to invest in a basic mechanical timer switch to put in line with the old fashioned charger set up to give it half an hour per day's boosting charge. The important point in all of this, being the avoidance of an unrelenting 13.8v float charging regime over a period of 5 or more months at a time. -- Johnny B Good |
#13
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Charging a car battery
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , F news@nowhere wrote: I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. No doubt the battery will eventually need a charge but do I really have to disconnect it as current [pun not intended] advice seems to indicate? If I do, I will, no doubt, have a whole lot of setting up to do on the various electronics. With a half decent modern ordinary charger, just leave the battery connected. The problem can occur with a commercial fast charger - the type that can start a car with a flat battery immediately. Which might chuck out enough volts to damage electronics. I have one of those excellent 13 quid Lidl chargers installed in the old car and hard wired to a fusebox. With a waterproof mains connector under the bumper. Allowing the battery to be charged with the car still secure. And they are on sale again in Lidl today - |
#14
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Charging a car battery
Can you not trickle charge it for a few hours a day on a cheapo timer? You
are right its probably going to be very very flat and also I feel that vehicles engines should be turned over pretty regularly as well. Brian -- ----- - This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... Blind user, so no pictures please! "F" news@nowhere wrote in message ... I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. No doubt the battery will eventually need a charge but do I really have to disconnect it as current [pun not intended] advice seems to indicate? If I do, I will, no doubt, have a whole lot of setting up to do on the various electronics. It's many moons since I last charged a car battery and at that time I just clamped the charger leads on and let it get on with it. -- F |
#15
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Charging a car battery
In article , Dave Plowman (News)
wrote: In article , Huge wrote: P.S. re-reading your posting, the reason people suggest disconnecting the battery is that most modern cars have a substantial current drain even when switched off (I've measured it at several hundred milliamperes). This will rapidly flatten and then ruin a car battery. Which is why I use a float/trickle charger (sometimes called a "battery conditioner"). If you take a fairly normal (large) 75 amp hour battery, a drain of 1 amp would flatten it in 3 days. Pro rata for a lower current. And it would fail to start before the battery was totally flat. Most cars can last about 3 weeks without being run. Which would suggest a quiescent current draw of rather under 100mA. But it may be higher until the electrics finally go to sleep. The main source of current drain is probably the radio. When you switch it off, you're only turning off the amplifier, the tuning bits, etc, are still powered. Alarms also take a bit of power. -- from KT24 in Surrey, England |
#16
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Charging a car battery
On Thu, 08 Feb 2018 14:23:04 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: In article , T i m wrote: On Thu, 08 Feb 2018 12:28:16 +0000, T i m wrote: On Thu, 8 Feb 2018 11:53:05 +0000, F news@nowhere wrote: I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. I often don't touch the kitcar (or several motorbikes) for many months and they all normally start ok ... so it very much depends on the parastatic load. Sorry, 'parasitic' ... Quiescent. It is necessary ;-) Good point ... assuming it is actually being used (like an alarm as I'm assuming an immobiliser would still be 'working' anyway? ). ;-) Cheers, T i m |
#17
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
charles wrote: In article , Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Huge wrote: P.S. re-reading your posting, the reason people suggest disconnecting the battery is that most modern cars have a substantial current drain even when switched off (I've measured it at several hundred milliamperes). This will rapidly flatten and then ruin a car battery. Which is why I use a float/trickle charger (sometimes called a "battery conditioner"). If you take a fairly normal (large) 75 amp hour battery, a drain of 1 amp would flatten it in 3 days. Pro rata for a lower current. And it would fail to start before the battery was totally flat. Most cars can last about 3 weeks without being run. Which would suggest a quiescent current draw of rather under 100mA. But it may be higher until the electrics finally go to sleep. The main source of current drain is probably the radio. When you switch it off, you're only turning off the amplifier, the tuning bits, etc, are still powered. Alarms also take a bit of power. On a modern car you might be amazed how much is powered up all the time. My radio retains its station memory etc even if totally powered down. -- *I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#18
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
T i m wrote: On Thu, 08 Feb 2018 14:23:04 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In article , T i m wrote: On Thu, 08 Feb 2018 12:28:16 +0000, T i m wrote: On Thu, 8 Feb 2018 11:53:05 +0000, F news@nowhere wrote: I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. I often don't touch the kitcar (or several motorbikes) for many months and they all normally start ok ... so it very much depends on the parastatic load. Sorry, 'parasitic' ... Quiescent. It is necessary ;-) Good point ... assuming it is actually being used (like an alarm as I'm assuming an immobiliser would still be 'working' anyway? ). ;-) Don't forget the remote central locking. Requires a receiver of some sort powered up at all times. Then there's likely one of those nice units that fade the interior lights up and down when you open a door. Same sort of thing. -- *It is easier to get older than it is to get wiser. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#19
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Charging a car battery
On 08/02/2018 14:22, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
If you take a fairly normal (large) 75 amp hour battery, a drain of 1 amp would flatten it in 3 days. No. Two days at most. You never get 75Ah out of a 75Ah battery. Bill |
#20
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Charging a car battery
On 08/02/2018 11:53, F wrote:
I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. No doubt the battery will eventually need a charge but do I really have to disconnect it as current [pun not intended] advice seems to indicate? If I do, I will, no doubt, have a whole lot of setting up to do on the various electronics. It's many moons since I last charged a car battery and at that time I just clamped the charger leads on and let it get on with it. Why not start it once a week, give it a good revving then let it tick over for ten minutes? That will stir the battery electrolyte a bit and also keep the engine happy. Move it backwards and forwards a bit so the clutch and brakes don't rust up. If your only concern is the battery you could follow my method, which is to have the charger powered from a circuit that is only on occasionally. In my case it's the power to an outbuilding, which might be on for half an hour a week. Bill |
#21
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Charging a car battery
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
On a modern car you might be amazed how much is powered up all the time. My radio retains its station memory etc even if totally powered down. Which doesn't actually need any power, flash memory retains its contents with no power. Older radios used to use powered memory to retain things but I'm not sure that modern ones do. -- Chris Green · |
#22
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Charging a car battery
On Thursday, 8 February 2018 19:03:05 UTC, Chris Green wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: On a modern car you might be amazed how much is powered up all the time. My radio retains its station memory etc even if totally powered down. Which doesn't actually need any power, flash memory retains its contents with no power. Older radios used to use powered memory to retain things but I'm not sure that modern ones do. Older ones didn't have memories, they had valves. And at least some proudly declared 'transistor' on the front regardless. NT |
#23
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Charging a car battery
F submitted this idea :
I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. No doubt the battery will eventually need a charge but do I really have to disconnect it as current [pun not intended] advice seems to indicate? If I do, I will, no doubt, have a whole lot of setting up to do on the various electronics. It's many moons since I last charged a car battery and at that time I just clamped the charger leads on and let it get on with it. If the charger is a modern controlled charger, no problem - just connect and charge despite the warnings. I would not leave it permanently on charge, even though the charger instructions might suggest you can do this. Initially bring it to a fully charged condition, maybe 24 hours, then every month or so repeat. That assumes that your car has no major sources of discharge/faults - It should discharge at less than 50mA-ish, depending on the model and its age. |
#24
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Charging a car battery
Huge explained :
(I've measured it at several hundred milliamperes). At that level of discharge, I would suggest the vehicle has a fault - something is not properly going into sleep mode and the reason needs to be investigated. |
#25
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Charging a car battery
charles explained on 08/02/2018 :
The main source of current drain is probably the radio. When you switch it off, you're only turning off the amplifier, the tuning bits, etc, are still powered. Alarms also take a bit of power. Wrong - only the memories and clock are maintained with power off, a matter of uA or a mA or so. My own car which is packed with maintained electronics, satnav, TV and radio plus an alarm system, only draws 20ma when in sleep mode after 1 minute. |
#26
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Charging a car battery
on 08/02/2018, Johnny B Good supposed :
You need to be aware that SLI LA batteries aren't designed to cope with continuous float charging for month after month after month periods at the classic (and seemingly more benign) 13.8v level. Six months seemed to be the point where such 'gentle float charging' would ruin them (a bunch of four connected to an APC SmartUPS2000 2KVA/1500W rated UPS... Twice!). You are spot on with that. I have several such batteries and having wrecked a few in the past, by using 13.8v 'maintenance' chargers, my regime now is one of bringing them up to a full charge once every 1 or 2 months. The diodes trick will only work, where the charger will charge irrespective of seeing a voltage across its output. |
#27
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Charging a car battery
Dave Plowman (News) laid this down on his screen :
Assuming the battery isn't knackered, the internal impedance will stop most chargers doing anything silly. Excepting a very powerful garage type one. Even an old fashioned transformer, rectifier - raw DC of stated 4amp output is more than capable of wrecking a perfectly good battery, if left on charge. I know, I have done it. |
#28
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Charging a car battery
on 08/02/2018, Dave Plowman (News) supposed :
Don't forget the remote central locking. Requires a receiver of some sort powered up at all times. Then there's likely one of those nice units that fade the interior lights up and down when you open a door. Same sort of thing. Modern ones, draw micro-amps. All of that wakes up when a signal is received, otherwise asleep for the most part. |
#29
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Charging a car battery
On 08/02/2018 11:53, F wrote:
I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. No doubt the battery will eventually need a charge but do I really have to disconnect it as current [pun not intended] advice seems to indicate? If I do, I will, no doubt, have a whole lot of setting up to do on the various electronics. It's many moons since I last charged a car battery and at that time I just clamped the charger leads on and let it get on with it. Thanks, all! I'll clamp the leads on with the battery still connected and put the charger on a timer to top it up for 30 minutes a day. Sounds like a plan? As for the rusting brakes issue, it's in the garage, I've left the handbrake off, and I've put a brick behind the rear wheel to stop it moving and jamming the garage door. The clutch might need to gather a little rust as I expect my soon-to-be-replaced knee won't like exercising the clutch pedal for some times. -- F |
#30
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Charging a car battery
On 08/02/2018 18:23, Bill Wright wrote:
On 08/02/2018 14:22, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: If you take a fairly normal (large) 75 amp hour battery, a drain of 1 amp would flatten it in 3 days. No. Two days at most. You never get 75Ah out of a 75Ah battery. Bill 75ahr at what rate? Low rate discharge usually gets far more energy out of the battery than the 20hr rate and a hell of a lot more than cold starting a diesel engine. |
#31
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Charging a car battery
On Thu, 8 Feb 2018 20:33:15 +0000, F news@nowhere wrote:
On 08/02/2018 11:53, F wrote: I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. No doubt the battery will eventually need a charge but do I really have to disconnect it as current [pun not intended] advice seems to indicate? If I do, I will, no doubt, have a whole lot of setting up to do on the various electronics. It's many moons since I last charged a car battery and at that time I just clamped the charger leads on and let it get on with it. Thanks, all! I'll clamp the leads on with the battery still connected and put the charger on a timer to top it up for 30 minutes a day. Sounds like a plan? I'd say, if you can't get a timer to turn it on once a week (what car can't be left a week with no issues)? If you had a DMM I'd just monitor it the first time and watch the voltage (and / or current) to see if both 'flatten out'. If they do then your on time was sufficient. As for the rusting brakes issue, it's in the garage, I've left the handbrake off, and I've put a brick behind the rear wheel to stop it moving and jamming the garage door. Good idea. The clutch might need to gather a little rust as I expect my soon-to-be-replaced knee won't like exercising the clutch pedal for some times. My kitcar clutch is currently seized on and my std release process is to first start it and get the engine warm then once warm, stop the engine, put it in first and start it again and with the clutch fully depressed then 'kangaroo' it on the throttle ... that usually does it. (If I can't get it to release with the handbrake on and in first, just using the starter motor). Given it's a cable clutch I was wondering if it should be left with some pressure on the clutch pedal, maybe just enough to get the clutch to separate from the flywheel and pressure plate 'slightly'? Cheers, T i m |
#32
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Charging a car battery
In article , Andy Burns
writes Huge wrote: the reason people suggest disconnecting the battery is that most modern cars have a substantial current drain even when switched off (I've measured it at several hundred milliamperes). Though they do progressively shutdown more and more systems over the course of hours/days/weeks. But they will still flatten the battery. -- bert |
#33
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Charging a car battery
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#34
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
bert wrote: In article , Andy Burns writes Huge wrote: the reason people suggest disconnecting the battery is that most modern cars have a substantial current drain even when switched off (I've measured it at several hundred milliamperes). Though they do progressively shutdown more and more systems over the course of hours/days/weeks. But they will still flatten the battery. my Citroen C5 used to warn that the battery was getting low and certain functions would be switched off, -- from KT24 in Surrey, England |
#35
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Charging a car battery
On Thu, 8 Feb 2018 22:05:48 +0000, bert wrote:
In article , writes On Thursday, 8 February 2018 19:03:05 UTC, Chris Green wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: On a modern car you might be amazed how much is powered up all the time. My radio retains its station memory etc even if totally powered down. Which doesn't actually need any power, flash memory retains its contents with no power. Older radios used to use powered memory to retain things but I'm not sure that modern ones do. Older ones didn't have memories, they had valves. And at least some proudly declared 'transistor' on the front regardless. NT They're not older, they're ancient Spoken by someone no doubt that thinks a vibrator was something that came from Anne Summers :-) [Not the best thing for long wave incidentally] AB |
#36
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Charging a car battery
On Thu, 08 Feb 2018 22:34:04 +0000, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Spoken by someone no doubt that thinks a vibrator was something that came from Anne Summers God, I'd forgotten about those. -- My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message. Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org *lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor |
#37
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Charging a car battery
On 08/02/2018 20:48, Huge wrote:
On 2018-02-08, Andy Burns wrote: Huge wrote: the reason people suggest disconnecting the battery is that most modern cars have a substantial current drain even when switched off (I've measured it at several hundred milliamperes). Though they do progressively shutdown more and more systems over the course of hours/days/weeks. Some of them do. Not all. I remember driving a car where the alternator was not charging the battery, as the journey went on "it" kept dropping services[1] until finally the car conked out alltogether. From first symptoms to conking out was twenty~thirty minutes minutes (ten or so miles). Livingston going back to Edinburgh, knew there was a problem but wanted to get son(special needs) home or at least as close as possible. [1] First the radio, then the power steering, then the speedo. Was 'great fun on the A71 with no power steering . My speed awareness is crap, without a speedo, cars were queueing up behind me. Mind you didn't want to go too fast with things stopping working . |
#38
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
Chris Green wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: On a modern car you might be amazed how much is powered up all the time. My radio retains its station memory etc even if totally powered down. Which doesn't actually need any power, flash memory retains its contents with no power. Older radios used to use powered memory to retain things but I'm not sure that modern ones do. Yes. But that has been replaced by all the other things that take power at all times. Maybe only a small amount each - but it adds up. -- *Warning: Dates in Calendar are closer than they appear. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote: Dave Plowman (News) laid this down on his screen : Assuming the battery isn't knackered, the internal impedance will stop most chargers doing anything silly. Excepting a very powerful garage type one. Even an old fashioned transformer, rectifier - raw DC of stated 4amp output is more than capable of wrecking a perfectly good battery, if left on charge. I know, I have done it. Of course - if left on after the battery is fully charged. But that wasn't the question. -- *All men are idiots, and I married their King. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#40
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote: charles explained on 08/02/2018 : The main source of current drain is probably the radio. When you switch it off, you're only turning off the amplifier, the tuning bits, etc, are still powered. Alarms also take a bit of power. Wrong - only the memories and clock are maintained with power off, a matter of uA or a mA or so. My own car which is packed with maintained electronics, satnav, TV and radio plus an alarm system, only draws 20ma when in sleep mode after 1 minute. Have you asked the maker how long you can leave the car and guaranteed it will start - assuming a good condition fully charged battery? -- *HOW IS IT POSSIBLE TO HAVE A CIVIL WAR? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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