On Thu, 8 Feb 2018 20:33:15 +0000, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 08/02/2018 11:53, F wrote:
I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple
of months. No doubt the battery will eventually need a charge but do I
really have to disconnect it as current [pun not intended] advice seems
to indicate? If I do, I will, no doubt, have a whole lot of setting up
to do on the various electronics.

It's many moons since I last charged a car battery and at that time I
just clamped the charger leads on and let it get on with it.

Thanks, all!

I'll clamp the leads on with the battery still connected and put the
charger on a timer to top it up for 30 minutes a day.

Sounds like a plan?

I'd say, if you can't get a timer to turn it on once a week (what car
can't be left a week with no issues)?

If you had a DMM I'd just monitor it the first time and watch the
voltage (and / or current) to see if both 'flatten out'. If they do
then your on time was sufficient.

As for the rusting brakes issue, it's in the garage, I've left the
handbrake off, and I've put a brick behind the rear wheel to stop it
moving and jamming the garage door.

Good idea.

The clutch might need to gather a little rust as I expect my
soon-to-be-replaced knee won't like exercising the clutch pedal for some
times.

My kitcar clutch is currently seized on and my std release process is
to first start it and get the engine warm then once warm, stop the
engine, put it in first and start it again and with the clutch fully
depressed then 'kangaroo' it on the throttle ... that usually does it.
(If I can't get it to release with the handbrake on and in first, just
using the starter motor).

Given it's a cable clutch I was wondering if it should be left with
some pressure on the clutch pedal, maybe just enough to get the clutch
to separate from the flywheel and pressure plate 'slightly'?

Cheers, T i m