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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#81
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Charging a car battery
On Fri, 09 Feb 2018 18:56:16 +0000, Terry Casey wrote:
Assuming parallel connected filaments - not heaters - a single UR could have been used but commercial receivers used an AD35 - containing two much larger cells in parallel to give a longer life. Uncle Albert Mode During the war /Uncle Albert Mode my mum and I lived in Hampshire with an aunt and my cousins and she had a 'wireless' which needed an HT battery, a grid bias battery and an accumulator for the filaments. The latter had to be taken to the local bike shop to be recharged and IIRC they actually exchanged the discharged one for a freshly charged one. -- TOJ. |
#82
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Charging a car battery
On Friday, 9 February 2018 16:39:40 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
http://www.valve-radio.co.uk/wp-cont...013/11/101.jpg Sadly the mind is going, at one time I would have known what C13 and R22 did. :-( AB reduce gain at high frequency NT |
#83
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Charging a car battery
On Friday, 9 February 2018 16:55:03 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
My first wireless after the almost compulsory xtal set was a TRF with feedback, [regenerative]. It was transistorised, and very good. I can understand why they never were generally available to the public though. AB they were the main type offered to the public in the 19 teens, 20s & early 30s. They also hung on at the cheap end of the market in the 40s. NT |
#84
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Charging a car battery
On Friday, 9 February 2018 18:12:05 UTC, Max Demian wrote:
On 09/02/2018 16:54, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote: On 9 Feb 2018 16:28:34 GMT, Bob Eager wrote: I built my first radio using DF96, DAF96, DK96 and DL96 (I think). It sounds right, with a 90V Ever ready? Was the heater supply a separate battery? I suppose it must have been. Some batteries for valve portables had the LT and HT in the same unit for simplicity - presumably the LT one was a single zinc/carbon cell rather than the layer construction used for HT. My first wireless after the almost compulsory xtal set was a TRF with feedback, [regenerative]. It was transistorised, and very good. I can understand why they never were generally available to the public though. Kit transistor radios were often regenerative to avoid the difficulty of alignment of a superhet, which would require a signal generator. Up to about the early 1930s domestic (valve) radios were regenerative with a 'reaction' control (variable capacitor). People just got used to increasing the reaction until it squealed and turning it back a bit. Apparently you could tell when other people were tuning in in the evening by the interference to other sets. Earlier TRF sets had two tuning controls which you had to turn together as they couldn't make twin gangs that tracked accurately enough. the cap sections needed to not quite track because they were in different bits of circuit with differing chracteristics. That's where the problem was. Later that was all figured out & the extra bits became affordable. NT |
#85
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Charging a car battery
On Fri, 09 Feb 2018 17:08:49 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote: If the radio is capacitor-tuned, there is invariably a certain amount of residual stray capacitance when the vanes are at minimum. This will 'pot-down' the voltage coming another capacitive source - ie the signal voltage being delivered from the aerial and screened high-impedance coaxial lead. To allow for differing lengths of lead, old radios invariably needed a user tweakable trimmer which was used to peak up the signal at the HF end - and, depending on how good the tracking was, this held reasonably good across the whole of the tuning range. The cable impedance was 75 Ohms, but the aerial would be a total mismatch. The trimmer seems logical, Strange I never really thought about it, but every radio had that little hole inviting the insertion of a screwdriver :-) I don't think the theoretical cable impedance was 75 ohms on a car radio aerial. It was peculiar stuff with a spiral inner core. 300 ohms is the figure in my mind - but could be wrong. It would have a characteristic impedance, presumably a lot higher than the more typical 50/75/93 ohm impedance figures typical of proper co-ax feeder cable. I'm not sure whether it could have been as high as 300 ohms which would be a side effect of trying to keep the shunt capacitance per metre figure as low as possible since it was being used not as a conventional co-axial feeder working into a matched load but simply as a screened section of the antenna designed to eliminate electrical noise within the interior of the vehicle from interfering with the radio signal picked up by the external portion of the antenna mounted outside of the Faraday shielding of the vehicle cab. IIRC, more modern radios match to the aerial automatically. The early MW/LW car radios used valves which, when used in common cathode mode, provided a high impedance input which could be connected across the first stage tuning circuit for maximum sensitivity without compromising the Q of the tuned circuit. It was standard practice to use permeability tuning (variable inductance) in order to keep the L:C ratio as high as possible to get the maximum voltage magnifying effect out of a circuit where most of the capacitance was supplied by that of the *shielded* antenna wire and the short external unshielded bit that acted as an electric field probe antenna. The combination of variable inductor/adjustable padding capacitor/screened aerial wire section plus exposed aerial rod capacitance, formed the first tuned section of the receiver. There were two very good reasons to choose permeability tuning over variable capacitor tuning, both touched upon above. Firstly, and foremost, the need to eliminate the "pot down" effect of a tuning capacitor and secondly, the elimination of a bulky two/three gang 300 to 500pF air spaced tuning capacitor in favour of the much more compact slug tuned two/three variable inductor bank. In theory, it shouldn't make any difference as to which part of the tuning dial you found a suitably weak signal by which to trim the aerial circuit to peak response provided the Local Oscillator (LO) tracking had been closely matched to the RF tuned circuit(s). However, choosing a suitable station at the HF end of the band may have helped compensate for LO tuning tracking errors in most cost effectively manufactured designs. Although such a small 'probe antenna' setup only brings in a tiny fraction of the signal that a full 100 odd foot vertical quarter wave ground plane would, the effective broadcasting range on the MW and LW wavebands is limited by the very high noise levels from atmospheric sources (QRN) in those wavebands. This circumstance meant that such tuned probe antennas were entirely fit for their intended purpose in spite of this obvious shortcoming. -- Johnny B Good |
#86
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Charging a car battery
On Thu, 08 Feb 2018 20:50:08 +0000, Huge wrote:
On 2018-02-08, Chris Bartram wrote: On 08/02/2018 11:53, F wrote: I've SORNed my car as I'm not going to be able to drive it for a couple of months. No doubt the battery will eventually need a charge but do I really have to disconnect it as current [pun not intended] advice seems to indicate? If I do, I will, no doubt, have a whole lot of setting up to do on the various electronics. It's many moons since I last charged a car battery and at that time I just clamped the charger leads on and let it get on with it. With a decent, modern, well-regulated charger, it isn't an issue. With an old, poorly regulated, poorly rectified one I'd be more cautious. CTEK ones are great, and designed to be used like this, and you can get leads you permanently connect to the car ... and ~£70. My £6 one works just as well. I had a look at the description in the linked page and they do seem to be 'just the ticket'. The only concern I had was the absence of any mention as to what the 'maintenance' voltage was. If it's 13.5v, ok but if it's 13.8v I'd be inclined to plug it in via a cheep 'n' cheerful electromechanical timer set to let it run for an hour or two per day rather than chance leaving it permanently floated at 13.8v month after month. -- Johnny B Good |
#87
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Charging a car battery
On 09/02/2018 00:54, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Bill Wright wrote: On 08/02/2018 14:22, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: If you take a fairly normal (large) 75 amp hour battery, a drain of 1 amp would flatten it in 3 days. No. Two days at most. You never get 75Ah out of a 75Ah battery. Sounds like you've checked a poor battery. A good one will give you very close to the figures I gave. But of course does depend what you take as the terminal voltage before stopping. I've checked a lot of batteries. I regard 11.75V as fully discharged. Bill |
#88
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Charging a car battery
On Fri, 9 Feb 2018 19:23:11 -0000, Terry Casey
wrote: In article , says... On Fri, 9 Feb 2018 10:43:29 -0000, Terry Casey wrote: The first TV that PYE sold claiming to be 'transistorised' had one transistor - used as sync separator, IIRC - but everything else remained valve driven. You might call that a sales gimmick - and you would be right That wasn't the abortion that was produced as a dual standard was it? I never saw the transistor mod, but the sync was an absolute nightmare. I've just spent quite some time trying to find some information on it but with no joy. The set was a slim line 17" set and I'm sure it was 405-line only. The transistor wasn't a mod - it was designed that way from new but, as we'd stopped selling PYE a few years earlier, I never saw one working. I have little doubt that your memory is better than mine regarding the model, but I would never have associated transistors with single standard VHF sets. Was flywheel sync in use in VHF sets? I could look it up, but my Newnes Radio and TV servicing library went in the bin a number of years back. Amazing times though, it was interesting to see different manufacturers approaches to electronics problems. Thorns "wattless dropper" was one of the most memorable, particlarly when the "dropper" shorted. I have recollections of cleaning terret tuners, in particular during the three day week when during power cuts we were issued portable gas lamps to do repairs by [We were salaried]. Thanks to the miners our customers had VHF tuners that were absolutely spot on, no hairbrush or comb wedged between case and tuner knob for them. Pity they were all on UHF and couldn't appreciate it. :-( Happy days AB |
#89
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Charging a car battery
In article 20180209180959.39c7b031@Mars,
Rob Morley wrote: On Fri, 09 Feb 2018 10:43:16 +0000 (GMT) "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In article , Chris Bartram wrote: I looked out for the Lidl ones but they weren't about when I needed one :-( Same as all Lidl tools, you have to buy when on offer. And depending on the store/item can sell out very quickly. I've taken to buying small "useful" DIY items in Lidl even though I don't need them just now, because I might later. I wonder how many of them will just sit on a shelf unused. Same here. Can't resist a treat when doing the 'normal' shopping. But everything does get used - eventually. -- *Ambition is a poor excuse for not having enough sense to be lazy * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#90
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
Bill Wright wrote: On 09/02/2018 00:54, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Bill Wright wrote: On 08/02/2018 14:22, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: If you take a fairly normal (large) 75 amp hour battery, a drain of 1 amp would flatten it in 3 days. No. Two days at most. You never get 75Ah out of a 75Ah battery. Sounds like you've checked a poor battery. A good one will give you very close to the figures I gave. But of course does depend what you take as the terminal voltage before stopping. I've checked a lot of batteries. I regard 11.75V as fully discharged. Ah. I have a very accurate digital voltmeter sitting across the car battery, and it has started with a lower voltage than that. (The voltmeter is wired directly to the battery, via a relay switched with the ignition.) -- *One of us is thinking about sex... OK, it's me. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#91
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Charging a car battery
On 09/02/18 18:41, Terry Casey wrote:
However, Bob only mentioned one EL84, so perhaps he was thinking of the Mullard 3-3: http://www.r-type.org/articles/art-003h.htm Outperforms anything else of a similar nature! With a decent transformer, probbaly better quality thanm most amps of that power around today:-) -- Those who want slavery should have the grace to name it by its proper name. They must face the full meaning of that which they are advocating or condoning; the full, exact, specific meaning of collectivism, of its logical implications, of the principles upon which it is based, and of the ultimate consequences to which these principles will lead. They must face it, then decide whether this is what they want or not. Ayn Rand. |
#92
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Charging a car battery
On 09/02/18 20:47, Johnny B Good wrote:
Although such a small 'probe antenna' setup only brings in a tiny fraction of the signal that a full 100 odd foot vertical quarter wave ground plane would, the effective broadcasting range on the MW and LW wavebands is limited by the very high noise levels from atmospheric sources (QRN) in those wavebands. This circumstance meant that such tuned probe antennas were entirely fit for their intended purpose in spite of this obvious shortcoming. Yup. Boosting gain just boosted the noise as well. -- Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend. Inside of a dog it's too dark to read. Groucho Marx |
#93
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Charging a car battery
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes In article , Bill Wright wrote: On 09/02/2018 00:54, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Bill Wright wrote: On 08/02/2018 14:22, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: If you take a fairly normal (large) 75 amp hour battery, a drain of 1 amp would flatten it in 3 days. No. Two days at most. You never get 75Ah out of a 75Ah battery. Sounds like you've checked a poor battery. A good one will give you very close to the figures I gave. But of course does depend what you take as the terminal voltage before stopping. I've checked a lot of batteries. I regard 11.75V as fully discharged. Ah. I have a very accurate digital voltmeter sitting across the car battery, and it has started with a lower voltage than that. (The voltmeter is wired directly to the battery, via a relay switched with the ignition.) One dark night at the beginning of January 1965, when in my 1953 Ford Prefect, with a dead flat* 6V battery (almost zero volts), I rolled it down a hill from Englefield Green to Runnymede (A328) - and bump started it. At the bottom of the hill, when I switched the lights on, the additional load on the dynamo nearly stalled the engine. Of course, those were the days before alternators and clever electronics. *It was dead flat because I had my amateur radio equipment installed in the car - and I had foolishly left the valve heaters on all over the Christmas holiday week. Fortunately, I had a spare car battery. -- Ian |
#94
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Charging a car battery
In article , Ian Jackson
wrote: In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes In article , Bill Wright wrote: On 09/02/2018 00:54, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Bill Wright wrote: On 08/02/2018 14:22, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: If you take a fairly normal (large) 75 amp hour battery, a drain of 1 amp would flatten it in 3 days. No. Two days at most. You never get 75Ah out of a 75Ah battery. Sounds like you've checked a poor battery. A good one will give you very close to the figures I gave. But of course does depend what you take as the terminal voltage before stopping. I've checked a lot of batteries. I regard 11.75V as fully discharged. Ah. I have a very accurate digital voltmeter sitting across the car battery, and it has started with a lower voltage than that. (The voltmeter is wired directly to the battery, via a relay switched with the ignition.) One dark night at the beginning of January 1965, when in my 1953 Ford Prefect, with a dead flat* 6V battery (almost zero volts), I rolled it down a hill from Englefield Green to Runnymede (A328) - and bump started it. Good thing you had control before you hit the river ;-) -- from KT24 in Surrey, England |
#95
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote: On 09/02/18 18:41, Terry Casey wrote: However, Bob only mentioned one EL84, so perhaps he was thinking of the Mullard 3-3: http://www.r-type.org/articles/art-003h.htm Outperforms anything else of a similar nature! With a decent transformer, probbaly better quality thanm most amps of that power around today:-) Why would anyone want such a low powered high quality power amp these days? It was OK in the days of vast super efficient speakers. -- *Very funny Scotty, now beam down my clothes. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#97
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
says... I have little doubt that your memory is better than mine regarding the model, but I would never have associated transistors with single standard VHF sets. Was flywheel sync in use in VHF sets? PYE introduced a fully transistorised TV quite early on in the 60s but I was quite surprised to find this: http://www.semiconductormuseum.com/T...CA/OralHistori es/Herzog/Herzog_Page8.htm or https://tinyurl.com/yaakbojp "RCA was second only to Bell Labs in the number of patents related to transistor inventions in the early 1950s. The above photo (from the 1953 RCA publication ?Transistors?) shows a number of historic transistorized devices developed at the RCA Labs and demonstrated at an RCA licensee transistor symposium in 1952 in Princeton, NJ. Of particular note is the first completely transistorized television receiver, shown on the left side of the above photo ..." This would have been a laboratory prototype rather than a production set but Philco put a portable set on the market in the states in 1959. I can't find a reference to the CRT size but the cabinet was only 8" wide so no more than 6" or possibly 7". Sony introduced an 8" set in 1960 (again, not in the UK). There were two UK sets introduced the following year, though. The Transvista 743T by Ferguson was another 7" portable but it was PYE who introduced the first 14" model - remember that in 1961, 14" sets were still very popular. https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/pye_tt1transisto.html Note the number of valves/tubes is stated as two - one was the CRT but the other would have been the EHT rectifier. The first UK set I am aware of with flywheel sync was the PYE V4, released in 1953. The set is usually remembered these days for the use of gated AGC, primarily because it was heavily promoted in all PYE's publicity as 'Automatic Picture Control' However, a brief mention on this page: http://www.thevalvepage.com/tv/pye/v4/v4.htm suggests that it had been used earlier on fringe sets. -- Terry --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com |
#98
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Charging a car battery
On Sat, 10 Feb 2018 12:02:20 +0000, Terry Casey wrote:
It was more common, I think you'll find, to buy two accumulators so that while one was in use, the spare was at the cycle/radio shop or garage being recharged. Whether you always got your own accumulator back I don't know! You may be right - I was only about 4 at the time and my memory ain't that good! -- TOJ. |
#99
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
Terry Casey wrote: In article , says... ... my mum and I lived in Hampshire with an aunt and my cousins and she had a 'wireless' which needed an HT battery, a grid bias battery and an accumulator for the filaments. The latter had to be taken to the local bike shop to be recharged and IIRC they actually exchanged the discharged one for a freshly charged one. It was more common, I think you'll find, to buy two accumulators so that while one was in use, the spare was at the cycle/radio shop or garage being recharged. Whether you always got your own accumulator back I don't know! Think it would depend on the size of the place. In the rural Scottish area an aunt lived in they re-charged your own one. I'd guess an exchange system would cost more which would explain it. -- *How do you tell when you run out of invisible ink? * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#100
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
Terry Casey wrote: The Transvista 743T by Ferguson was another 7" portable but it was PYE who introduced the first 14" model - remember that in 1961, 14" sets were still very popular. They may have still been on sale, but 17" was more common for new sales, with 21" being around too. IIRC, colour was the real problem. With the first colour sets still having valve LOP. -- *No sentence fragments * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#101
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Charging a car battery
On Sat, 10 Feb 2018 13:40:28 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: In article , Terry Casey wrote: The Transvista 743T by Ferguson was another 7" portable but it was PYE who introduced the first 14" model - remember that in 1961, 14" sets were still very popular. They may have still been on sale, but 17" was more common for new sales, with 21" being around too. IIRC, colour was the real problem. With the first colour sets still having valve LOP. Thorn 2000, can't even recollect whether it was single or dual standard, but at every Thorn training course I went on they reminded us of the fact, they also stated that there was one in the science museum. Cant remember the Pye though, I certaily would appreciate a link if anyone knows of one. The first transistorised portable I remember was the Thorn 1590 although there was a Rigonda TV out at around the same time. I seem to remember the Rigonda was sold via furniture stores and through Kelloggs. How many bowls of Frosties needed to be consumed to get one, God knows :-) AB |
#102
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Charging a car battery
On Sat, 10 Feb 2018 11:18:40 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , The Natural Philosopher wrote: On 09/02/18 18:41, Terry Casey wrote: However, Bob only mentioned one EL84, so perhaps he was thinking of the Mullard 3-3: http://www.r-type.org/articles/art-003h.htm Outperforms anything else of a similar nature! With a decent transformer, probbaly better quality thanm most amps of that power around today:-) Why would anyone want such a low powered high quality power amp these days? It was OK in the days of vast super efficient speakers. My speakers are 4 cu ft. bass reflexes. -- My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message. Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org *lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor |
#103
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Charging a car battery
On 10/02/18 15:06, Bob Eager wrote:
On Sat, 10 Feb 2018 11:18:40 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , The Natural Philosopher wrote: On 09/02/18 18:41, Terry Casey wrote: However, Bob only mentioned one EL84, so perhaps he was thinking of the Mullard 3-3: http://www.r-type.org/articles/art-003h.htm Outperforms anything else of a similar nature! With a decent transformer, probbaly better quality thanm most amps of that power around today:-) Why would anyone want such a low powered high quality power amp these days? It was OK in the days of vast super efficient speakers. My speakers are 4 cu ft. bass reflexes. 3W-100W is only 15dB -- "Women actually are capable of being far more than the feminists will let them." |
#104
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Charging a car battery
In article ,
says... In article , Terry Casey wrote: The Transvista 743T by Ferguson was another 7" portable but it was PYE who introduced the first 14" model - remember that in 1961, 14" sets were still very popular. They may have still been on sale, but 17" was more common for new sales, with 21" being around too. Yes. Funnily enough, I was just thinking this through. I'm thinking more about the sets I was reparing in early 1961 rather than what thery were selling downstairs in the shop! We were Bush dealers and the TV95 was introduced round about the time I started work in Septemner 1960. The TV95 was 17" as were most of the other sets in the range be it fringe sets or sets with FM radio. There was also the 21" TV99 and console models T98C and T99C but very few 21" sets passed through my hands so the 17" sets were obviously much more popular. The last 14" set was the TV63 and, as Bush model numbers went up by 10 every year, that dates it to 1957. The 19" sets ousted the 17" ones in 1961 as the smallest screen size generally available with the advent of the TV105. -- Terry --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com |
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