I have this amazing wireless doorbell. I've mounted the chimer on a
little wooden stand that I can move from room to room. However, I'm
not always in the room where the chime is. So, for example, in winter
I have the kitchen door closed to conserve heat, but if the chime is
currently in the hall I may not hear it.

Even if I bought another couple of these (they're not expensive), they
would each have their own bell push and each "pair" would respond to a
randomly different code. This is done to minimise the likelihood of a
neighbour's bell chiming when your doorbell is rung.

Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that
several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

MM

On 29/01/2018 08:27, MM wrote:
I have this amazing wireless doorbell. I've mounted the chimer on a
little wooden stand that I can move from room to room. However, I'm
not always in the room where the chime is. So, for example, in winter
I have the kitchen door closed to conserve heat, but if the chime is
currently in the hall I may not hear it.

Even if I bought another couple of these (they're not expensive), they
would each have their own bell push and each "pair" would respond to a
randomly different code. This is done to minimise the likelihood of a
neighbour's bell chiming when your doorbell is rung.

Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that
several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

MM


Mine comes with a random code on the push and you program the sounder to
the push. You need to RTFM to see if yours is similar.

We bought a plug in wireless system with a separate second push switch which if I recall was easily paired to the bell unit. I do not think it is possible to do it the other way round in other words pair a push switch to several bell units.

Richard

Tricky Dicky Wrote in message:
We bought a plug in wireless system with a separate second push switch which if I recall was easily paired to the bell unit. I do not think it is possible to do it the other way round in other words pair a push switch to several bell units.

Richard


I had a Swann plugin set that did what you want. Multiple
sounders, multiple pushes, different melodies for different
doors etc.
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

I'd have thought this would be possible. I remember two of the many in a
block of flats used to chime each other.
Somebody must make devices where you can have more than one slave bell.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"MM" wrote in message
...
I have this amazing wireless doorbell. I've mounted the chimer on a
little wooden stand that I can move from room to room. However, I'm
not always in the room where the chime is. So, for example, in winter
I have the kitchen door closed to conserve heat, but if the chime is
currently in the hall I may not hear it.

Even if I bought another couple of these (they're not expensive), they
would each have their own bell push and each "pair" would respond to a
randomly different code. This is done to minimise the likelihood of a
neighbour's bell chiming when your doorbell is rung.

Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that
several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

MM

MM wrote:
I have this amazing wireless doorbell. I've mounted the chimer on a
little wooden stand that I can move from room to room. However, I'm
not always in the room where the chime is. So, for example, in winter
I have the kitchen door closed to conserve heat, but if the chime is
currently in the hall I may not hear it.

Even if I bought another couple of these (they're not expensive), they
would each have their own bell push and each "pair" would respond to a
randomly different code. This is done to minimise the likelihood of a
neighbour's bell chiming when your doorbell is rung.

Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that
several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

MM

Not nesecelery, check, some have the wherewithall to change freqencies

On 29/01/2018 08:27, MM wrote:
Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that
several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

It depends. Some of the cheaper ones may be hard coded and not possible
but decent ones should have this facility.

We have 3 rather elderly Freidland Libra sounders distributed around the
house which all respond to a single bell push, The push button and
sounders each have a small block of 8 DIP switches which can be set to
pair them or to avoid conflicts with neighbours' units. An additional
switch in the push can be used to select between 2 different sounds if
you have pushes on 2 doors..

--
Mike Clarke

I have this amazing wireless doorbell. I've mounted the chimer on a
little wooden stand that I can move from room to room. However, I'm
not always in the room where the chime is. So, for example, in winter
I have the kitchen door closed to conserve heat, but if the chime is
currently in the hall I may not hear it.

Even if I bought another couple of these (they're not expensive), they
would each have their own bell push and each "pair" would respond to a
randomly different code. This is done to minimise the likelihood of a
neighbour's bell chiming when your doorbell is rung.

Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that
several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

MM

Why don't you give us the make/model of the doorbell?

If you can take a clear photo of the PCB in the bell-push (preferably
both sides) I can probebly be able to tell you what you would need to
change on any additional push to code it the same.
--

Graham.
%Profound_observation%

On Mon, 29 Jan 2018 09:15:37 +0000, "dennis@home"
wrote:

On 29/01/2018 08:27, MM wrote:
I have this amazing wireless doorbell. I've mounted the chimer on a
little wooden stand that I can move from room to room. However, I'm
not always in the room where the chime is. So, for example, in winter
I have the kitchen door closed to conserve heat, but if the chime is
currently in the hall I may not hear it.

Even if I bought another couple of these (they're not expensive), they
would each have their own bell push and each "pair" would respond to a
randomly different code. This is done to minimise the likelihood of a
neighbour's bell chiming when your doorbell is rung.

Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that
several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

MM


Mine comes with a random code on the push and you program the sounder to
the push. You need to RTFM to see if yours is similar.

I can't program the sounder here. It just chooses a random wave length
to trigger.

MM

On 29 Jan 2018 10:34:58 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-29, MM wrote:
I have this amazing wireless doorbell. I've mounted the chimer on a
little wooden stand that I can move from room to room. However, I'm
not always in the room where the chime is. So, for example, in winter
I have the kitchen door closed to conserve heat, but if the chime is
currently in the hall I may not hear it.

Even if I bought another couple of these (they're not expensive), they
would each have their own bell push and each "pair" would respond to a
randomly different code. This is done to minimise the likelihood of a
neighbour's bell chiming when your doorbell is rung.

Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that
several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

For our last house I bought three identical bell push/chime (well, bell,
but the principle's the same) units. They have a DIP switch inside that
sets the code they respond to (to stop your neighbours chime responding
to your bell push). I set the codes to all be the same, and then any bell
push would set off all three chimes. The pushes were outside the front
and back doors (+ a spare) and the chimes distributed round the house.

What were these (make, model)?

Alternatively, the Wickes units I have in this house came with one push
and two chimes - one plugs into the mains and one has batteries. The
push sets off both chimes. IIRC, these too have DIP switches.

I'll look on the Wickes website. Never thought, to be honest, about
using the mains, even though I do use the mains for my TP-Link plugs!

My suggestion is check to see if your existing units have switches in
them, and if they do, buy some identical ones, or failing that, start
again with a model that has DIP switches and buy several of them as I
did.

The only switch is on the chimer and it merely sets the tune to select
(from about 20!).

MM

On Mon, 29 Jan 2018 11:05:04 +0000, Graham.
wrote:

I have this amazing wireless doorbell. I've mounted the chimer on a
little wooden stand that I can move from room to room. However, I'm
not always in the room where the chime is. So, for example, in winter
I have the kitchen door closed to conserve heat, but if the chime is
currently in the hall I may not hear it.

Even if I bought another couple of these (they're not expensive), they
would each have their own bell push and each "pair" would respond to a
randomly different code. This is done to minimise the likelihood of a
neighbour's bell chiming when your doorbell is rung.

Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that
several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

MM

Why don't you give us the make/model of the doorbell?

LUPO Wireless Doorbell Cordless Door Chime Kit, bought from Amazon in
2013. Still available for £3 more.

If you can take a clear photo of the PCB in the bell-push (preferably
both sides) I can probebly be able to tell you what you would need to
change on any additional push to code it the same.

Since I posted this topic, I've followed up some recommendations in
the thread for newer products and they can be ordered with 2 or 3
compatible plug-in receivers, so that's probably the way to go.

I'm not sure whether they have to be plugged into a wall socket
directly or whether an extension strip would suffice (wall sockets are
not too plentiful in my house).

MM

Huge Wrote in message:
On 2018-01-29, MM wrote:
I have this amazing wireless doorbell. I've mounted the chimer on a
little wooden stand that I can move from room to room. However, I'm
not always in the room where the chime is. So, for example, in winter
I have the kitchen door closed to conserve heat, but if the chime is
currently in the hall I may not hear it.

Even if I bought another couple of these (they're not expensive), they
would each have their own bell push and each "pair" would respond to a
randomly different code. This is done to minimise the likelihood of a
neighbour's bell chiming when your doorbell is rung.

Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that
several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

For our last house I bought three identical bell push/chime (well, bell,
but the principle's the same) units. They have a DIP switch inside that
sets the code they respond to (to stop your neighbours chime responding
to your bell push). I set the codes to all be the same, and then any bell
push would set off all three chimes. The pushes were outside the front
and back doors (+ a spare) and the chimes distributed round the house.

But how did you know which door had the visitor?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Mon, 29 Jan 2018 11:05:04 +0000, Graham.
wrote:

I have this amazing wireless doorbell. I've mounted the chimer on a
little wooden stand that I can move from room to room. However, I'm
not always in the room where the chime is. So, for example, in winter
I have the kitchen door closed to conserve heat, but if the chime is
currently in the hall I may not hear it.

Even if I bought another couple of these (they're not expensive), they
would each have their own bell push and each "pair" would respond to a
randomly different code. This is done to minimise the likelihood of a
neighbour's bell chiming when your doorbell is rung.

Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that
several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

MM

Why don't you give us the make/model of the doorbell?

LUPO Wireless Doorbell Cordless Door Chime Kit, bought from Amazon in
2013. Still available for £3 more.

If you can take a clear photo of the PCB in the bell-push (preferably
both sides) I can probebly be able to tell you what you would need to
change on any additional push to code it the same.

Since I posted this topic, I've followed up some recommendations in
the thread for newer products and they can be ordered with 2 or 3
compatible plug-in receivers, so that's probably the way to go.

I'm not sure whether they have to be plugged into a wall socket
directly or whether an extension strip would suffice (wall sockets are
not too plentiful in my house).

MM
Things that communicate via the mains wiring like power-line adaptors
sometimes work better when plugged directly into the ring. Your
doorbell receiver uses a built-in aerial and it doesn't really matter
about extensions etc.

--

Graham.
%Profound_observation%

It happens that FMurtz formulated :
Not nesecelery, check, some have the wherewithall to change freqencies

Change pairing code I think you mean. The frequency stays the same.

MM wrote:

I have this amazing wireless doorbell. I've mounted the chimer on a
little wooden stand that I can move from room to room. However, I'm
not always in the room where the chime is. So, for example, in winter
I have the kitchen door closed to conserve heat, but if the chime is
currently in the hall I may not hear it.

Even if I bought another couple of these (they're not expensive), they
would each have their own bell push and each "pair" would respond to a
randomly different code. This is done to minimise the likelihood of a
neighbour's bell chiming when your doorbell is rung.

Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that
several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

MM

My 13 year old Friedland wireless ones could set any number of bell
pushes to operate any number of chime units. And two different rings
could be chosen by bell pushes. No idea if they work the same now, but
one of the chimes is called 'Libra D280' if that is any help.

--

Roger Hayter

On 29/01/2018 08:27, MM wrote:
I have this amazing wireless doorbell. I've mounted the chimer on a
little wooden stand that I can move from room to room. However, I'm
not always in the room where the chime is. So, for example, in winter
I have the kitchen door closed to conserve heat, but if the chime is
currently in the hall I may not hear it.

Even if I bought another couple of these (they're not expensive), they
would each have their own bell push and each "pair" would respond to a
randomly different code. This is done to minimise the likelihood of a
neighbour's bell chiming when your doorbell is rung.

Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that
several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

MM

My "push" works three different sounders, not all the same make. *Some*
types come with a jumper select for a few different frequencies, to help
avoid neighbours devices. Some of mine can "lose contact" and need to be
power cycled or have the reset button pushed before they connect again.

On 29 Jan 2018 14:29:04 GMT, Huge wrote:

Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

No, it doesn't. It works fine with TP-Link hardware.

MM

On Tue, 30 Jan 2018 17:50:52 +0000
MM wrote:

On 29 Jan 2018 14:29:04 GMT, Huge wrote:

Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

No, it doesn't.

Yes it does.

On 30 Jan 2018 18:06:06 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-30, MM wrote:
On 29 Jan 2018 14:29:04 GMT, Huge wrote:

Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

No, it doesn't.

Yes it does.

You're wrong. I get exactly the same performance whether My PC is
connected directly to the D-Link switch with a CAT6 cable or via a
TP-Link plug on the mains. Around 6.9 Mbps on ADSL.

MM

On 01/02/2018 08:37, MM wrote:
You're wrong. I get exactly the same performance whether My PC is
connected directly to the D-Link switch with a CAT6 cable or via a
TP-Link plug on the mains. Around 6.9 Mbps on ADSL.

But that's being limited by the speed of your outgoing broadband connection.

What speed do you get between two devices on your side of the router
using the TP-Link plug compared to the CAT6 cable?

--
Mike Clarke

On Mon, 29 Jan 2018 17:32:52 +0000, newshound
wrote:

On 29/01/2018 08:27, MM wrote:
I have this amazing wireless doorbell. I've mounted the chimer on a
little wooden stand that I can move from room to room. However, I'm
not always in the room where the chime is. So, for example, in winter
I have the kitchen door closed to conserve heat, but if the chime is
currently in the hall I may not hear it.

Even if I bought another couple of these (they're not expensive), they
would each have their own bell push and each "pair" would respond to a
randomly different code. This is done to minimise the likelihood of a
neighbour's bell chiming when your doorbell is rung.

Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that
several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

MM

My "push" works three different sounders, not all the same make. *Some*
types come with a jumper select for a few different frequencies, to help
avoid neighbours devices. Some of mine can "lose contact" and need to be
power cycled or have the reset button pushed before they connect again.

I hit upon a brainwave this morning! I simply stuck the chimer in my
trouser pocket. So no matter where I am, even in the garage or garden,
I cannot fail to hear it. The chimer unit is extremely lightweight and
after a while you're no longer aware of it. A refinement would be to
dismantle it and put the gubbins in an even smaller container.

MM

On Thu, 1 Feb 2018 10:39:57 +0000, Mike Clarke
wrote:

On 01/02/2018 08:37, MM wrote:
You're wrong. I get exactly the same performance whether My PC is
connected directly to the D-Link switch with a CAT6 cable or via a
TP-Link plug on the mains. Around 6.9 Mbps on ADSL.

But that's being limited by the speed of your outgoing broadband connection.

Well, of course!

What speed do you get between two devices on your side of the router
using the TP-Link plug compared to the CAT6 cable?

You mean, if I'm copying a file from one PC to another across my home
network?

MM

On 1 Feb 2018 10:45:02 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2018-02-01, MM wrote:
On 30 Jan 2018 18:06:06 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-30, MM wrote:
On 29 Jan 2018 14:29:04 GMT, Huge wrote:

Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

No, it doesn't.

Yes it does.

You're wrong.

You're killfiled.

Ooh, that hurt!

My experience might be different to yours. But I am
not "wrong".

Your comment was: "Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick."

Not: "Huge's Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick."

Too much generalisation is not helping!

MM

Huge wrote:

On 2018-02-01, MM wrote:
On 30 Jan 2018 18:06:06 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-30, MM wrote:
On 29 Jan 2018 14:29:04 GMT, Huge wrote:

Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

No, it doesn't.

Yes it does.

You're wrong.

You're killfiled. My experience might be different to yours. But I am
not "wrong".

Never? Ever?

--

Roger Hayter

On Thu, 01 Feb 2018 11:56:27 +0000, MM wrote:

I hit upon a brainwave this morning! I simply stuck the chimer in my
trouser pocket. So no matter where I am, even in the garage or garden,
I cannot fail to hear it. The chimer unit is extremely lightweight and
after a while you're no longer aware of it. A refinement would be to
dismantle it and put the gubbins in an even smaller container.

I just have the door alarm sound in every room. And in the garden.



--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On 01/02/2018 08:37, MM wrote:
On 30 Jan 2018 18:06:06 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-30, MM wrote:
On 29 Jan 2018 14:29:04 GMT, Huge wrote:

Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

No, it doesn't.

Yes it does.

You're wrong. I get exactly the same performance whether My PC is
connected directly to the D-Link switch with a CAT6 cable or via a
TP-Link plug on the mains. Around 6.9 Mbps on ADSL.

MM


So it doesn't suck if you aren't really using it?

How fast does it do a network backup to a NAS?

Mine does 600Mb/s over WiFi.

On 01/02/2018 12:11, Roger Hayter wrote:
Huge wrote:

On 2018-02-01, MM wrote:
On 30 Jan 2018 18:06:06 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-30, MM wrote:
On 29 Jan 2018 14:29:04 GMT, Huge wrote:

Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

No, it doesn't.

Yes it does.

You're wrong.

You're killfiled. My experience might be different to yours. But I am
not "wrong".

Never? Ever?


huge dick is always wrong.
Except about DIY as he never answers a DIY question.

On 01/02/2018 11:56, MM wrote:

I hit upon a brainwave this morning! I simply stuck the chimer in my
trouser pocket. So no matter where I am, even in the garage or garden,
I cannot fail to hear it. The chimer unit is extremely lightweight and
after a while you're no longer aware of it. A refinement would be to
dismantle it and put the gubbins in an even smaller container.

MM


My battery chime comes with a belt clip so you can carry it about.
The mains one could have a clip but I think my UPS is a bit heavy.

On Wed, 31 Jan 2018 21:52:20 +0000, Rob Morley
wrote:

On Tue, 30 Jan 2018 17:50:52 +0000
MM wrote:

On 29 Jan 2018 14:29:04 GMT, Huge wrote:

Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

No, it doesn't.

Yes it does.

This could well be the same sort of argument as the 'get you home'
puncture 'repair' latex foam sprays and the pre-puncture gels that
provide an instant and permanent solution? Chalk and cheese.

I have used Powerline adaptors in many locations (typically TP-Link
brand) and have had no issues with them whatsoever.

The last instance was a NowTV box across the width of a lounge hall
when run over WiFi it was constantly buffering and hesitating. Plug in
a pair of TP-Link PL adaptors and it's been fine ever since? shrug

At the same site they also use a third TP-Link PL adaptor to put WiFi
at the back of the house and a 4th to connect a PC in the upstairs
study.

None of the people there are 'technical' and so I would be the first
person to hear if there were any issues ... and I haven't.

This experience is repeated in every location I've used or recommended
PL as a solution, where there were no real / reliable alternatives.

Now, would I guarantee that you would always get the same bandwidth as
a good Cat5e cable, no, because for 'most people' that's rarely (if
ever) a requirement.

Would I guarantee that there is no RF noise generated in those
locations? No, I wouldn't, because again that's never been an issue
that has been raised so I've not had to deal with it.

Am I saying I would recommend PL over traditional bounded Ethernet?
Well, that all depends on the location and the willingness of the
people to rip up flooring or run cables over the surface versus using
a PL solution (that 'works' AFA they are concerned).

Cheers, T i m

On Thu, 1 Feb 2018 12:11:21 +0000, (Roger Hayter)
wrote:

Huge wrote:

On 2018-02-01, MM wrote:
On 30 Jan 2018 18:06:06 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-30, MM wrote:
On 29 Jan 2018 14:29:04 GMT, Huge wrote:

Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

No, it doesn't.

Yes it does.

You're wrong.

You're killfiled. My experience might be different to yours. But I am
not "wrong".

Never? Ever?

He is clearly wrong in this instance as there are millions of people
using them every day and with no issues.

Now, if we start to drill down into the specific situation where
people have had issues or not found them to be as good as other
solutions then that's different.

I was asked to provide Internet access for a family friend who lived
in a large house that was originally two houses that had been joined
together. The issues was the two building parts were on two CU's and
so PL wouldn't work without 'bridging' the two CU's. So, I used PL to
get a WiFi signal as near as I could to the remote PC and then WiFi to
do the last bit. Once setup, there were no other issues. Was it
'fast', no, but it was faster than their Broadband at the time and so
that was all that really mattered.

As mentioned elsewhere, anyone who doesn't find something works well
*for them* might suggest that in their statements or state under what
circumstances it didn't work for them or why they may *prefer*
something else.

Few would argue that bounded Ethernet isn't going to be the *best*
solution but that's only going to be the case if the user is willing
or able to run such cable though their building.

I ran some Thin Ethernet in Heathrow T4 and they needed a specific
(Belden) cable (I think) that had a secondary foil screen because of
the high levels of RF / Radar that was about. Had I not used the
'right cable' I could easily say that 'Thin Ethernet sucked' when it
was clearly the result of the location. The fully loaded 8 port Thin
Ethernet repeater I installed at a previous job never had any issues
at all using standard RG-58C/U.

Cheers, T i m

T i m wrote:

On Thu, 1 Feb 2018 12:11:21 +0000, (Roger Hayter)
wrote:

Huge wrote:

On 2018-02-01, MM wrote:
On 30 Jan 2018 18:06:06 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-30, MM wrote:
On 29 Jan 2018 14:29:04 GMT, Huge wrote:

Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

No, it doesn't.

Yes it does.

You're wrong.

You're killfiled. My experience might be different to yours. But I am
not "wrong".

Never? Ever?

He is clearly wrong in this instance as there are millions of people
using them every day and with no issues.

Now, if we start to drill down into the specific situation where
people have had issues or not found them to be as good as other
solutions then that's different.

I was asked to provide Internet access for a family friend who lived
in a large house that was originally two houses that had been joined
together. The issues was the two building parts were on two CU's and
so PL wouldn't work without 'bridging' the two CU's. So, I used PL to
get a WiFi signal as near as I could to the remote PC and then WiFi to
do the last bit. Once setup, there were no other issues. Was it
'fast', no, but it was faster than their Broadband at the time and so
that was all that really mattered.

As mentioned elsewhere, anyone who doesn't find something works well
*for them* might suggest that in their statements or state under what
circumstances it didn't work for them or why they may *prefer*
something else.

Few would argue that bounded Ethernet isn't going to be the *best*
solution but that's only going to be the case if the user is willing
or able to run such cable though their building.

I ran some Thin Ethernet in Heathrow T4 and they needed a specific
(Belden) cable (I think) that had a secondary foil screen because of
the high levels of RF / Radar that was about. Had I not used the
'right cable' I could easily say that 'Thin Ethernet sucked' when it
was clearly the result of the location. The fully loaded 8 port Thin
Ethernet repeater I installed at a previous job never had any issues
at all using standard RG-58C/U.

Cheers, T i m

They may well be as fast as a slow or medium Internet connection, but
they are unlikely to be as fast as even WiFi, let alone Gigabit ethernet
for local network transfers. And, of course, they are fundamentally
antisocial in causing widespread local interference at HF. I wouldn't
use them for the same reason I wouldn't play loud music at 2 am or pour
oil down the drains. It's simply bad behaviour, even when legal.

--

Roger Hayter

On 01/02/2018 12:03, MM wrote:

You mean, if I'm copying a file from one PC to another across my home
network?

Yes

--
Mike Clarke

On Thu, 1 Feb 2018 20:15:02 +0000, (Roger Hayter)
wrote:

snip

They may well be as fast as a slow or medium Internet connection, but
they are unlikely to be as fast as even WiFi,

I would argue that point, especially when you are using WiFi in a new
build with foil backed plasterboard etc.

let alone Gigabit ethernet
for local network transfers.

Yes, great, *if* you can get some cable in there. Many (many) people
can't or won't so then what?

https://www.techadvisor.co.uk/review...eview-3610443/

They tested those at a RW 115Gb/s (FWIW).

And, of course, they are fundamentally
antisocial in causing widespread local interference at HF.

Do you have any information to support that assertion and that covers
all makes and models?

I wouldn't
use them for the same reason I wouldn't play loud music at 2 am or pour
oil down the drains. It's simply bad behaviour, even when legal.

Are we talking *all* PLA's or just bad / faulty ones?

https://www.ispreview.co.uk/index.ph...-adapters.html

And how many people actually listen to shortwave these days. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Thu, 01 Feb 2018 14:30:05 +0000, T i m wrote:

I have used Powerline adaptors in many locations (typically TP-Link
brand)
and have had no issues with them whatsoever.

However, others might have had issues with the RF interference caused by
your solution!

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

T i m wrote:

On Thu, 1 Feb 2018 20:15:02 +0000, (Roger Hayter)
wrote:

snip

They may well be as fast as a slow or medium Internet connection, but
they are unlikely to be as fast as even WiFi,

I would argue that point, especially when you are using WiFi in a new
build with foil backed plasterboard etc.

let alone Gigabit ethernet
for local network transfers.

Yes, great, *if* you can get some cable in there. Many (many) people
can't or won't so then what?

https://www.techadvisor.co.uk/review...ink-av1200-gig
abit-powerline-adapter-review-3610443/

They tested those at a RW 115Gb/s (FWIW).

And, of course, they are fundamentally
antisocial in causing widespread local interference at HF.

Do you have any information to support that assertion and that covers
all makes and models?

I wouldn't
use them for the same reason I wouldn't play loud music at 2 am or pour
oil down the drains. It's simply bad behaviour, even when legal.

Are we talking *all* PLA's or just bad / faulty ones?

Since they work by injecting HF signals into the public power network, I
should say all of them. Some notch amateur bands successully, but
amateur radio isn't the only thing on HF.





https://www.ispreview.co.uk/index.ph...prosecute-owne
rs-bad-powerline-network-adapters.html

And how many people actually listen to shortwave these days. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

So a minority not deserving of protection?

--

Roger Hayter

On Thu, 1 Feb 2018 23:31:43 +0000, (Roger Hayter)
wrote:

snip

Are we talking *all* PLA's or just bad / faulty ones?

Since they work by injecting HF signals into the public power network,

I thought they wouldn't typically pass *out* of your private power
network, especially though the RCD etc in the CU, certainly not with
any signal strength?

I know they don't work on filtered multiway sockets or even a basic
(non filtered) one if it's on a long lead?

I
should say all of them. Some notch amateur bands successully, but
amateur radio isn't the only thing on HF.

Ok.

https://www.ispreview.co.uk/index.ph...prosecute-owne
rs-bad-powerline-network-adapters.html

And how many people actually listen to shortwave these days. ;-)


So a minority not deserving of protection?

Well, as a 'radio amateur' I have been told it's 'use it or lose it'?

So, what about all the other causes of electrical interference
mentioned on the link?

"Control Equipment
Domestic Electric Cables
High Voltage Power Cables
Industrial Scientific Medical Equipment
IT Equipment
IT Power Supply Unit
Lighting
Power Line Adaptor
Power Supply Unit Battery Charger
Security Equipment
Transformer
TV Aerial Amplifier
TV Equipment"

OOI, I have assisted 3 people who were suffering with poor WiFi
signals around their houses (using WiSpy WiFi 2.4Ghz frequency
scanner).

One turned out to be rouge remote speakers on a HiFi system, another
one of those 'TV-Senders' and a 3rd a car alarm (the problem was only
there when the car was parked on the drive). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On 1 Feb 2018 21:55:57 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:

On Thu, 01 Feb 2018 14:30:05 +0000, T i m wrote:

I have used Powerline adaptors in many locations (typically TP-Link
brand)
and have had no issues with them whatsoever.

However, others might have had issues with the RF interference caused by
your solution!

It's not my solution Bob, it's a legal / valid / approved solution.
;-)

So, do you actually know of any of these 'others' who 'might' have
suffered issues from something other than a faulty unit?

Cheers, T i m

On Thu, 1 Feb 2018 13:47:40 +0000, "dennis@home"
wrote:

On 01/02/2018 08:37, MM wrote:
On 30 Jan 2018 18:06:06 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-30, MM wrote:
On 29 Jan 2018 14:29:04 GMT, Huge wrote:

Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

No, it doesn't.

Yes it does.

You're wrong. I get exactly the same performance whether My PC is
connected directly to the D-Link switch with a CAT6 cable or via a
TP-Link plug on the mains. Around 6.9 Mbps on ADSL.

MM


So it doesn't suck if you aren't really using it?

Well, I *am* using it and it's fine, as I previously mentioned.

How fast does it do a network backup to a NAS?

I don't have a NAS so I cannot answer your question.

Mine does 600Mb/s over WiFi.

That's very good news! (Remind me how WiFi through the mains works, as
I thought the "Wi" part is short for "wireless".)

MM

On 02/02/18 08:40, MM wrote:
On Thu, 1 Feb 2018 13:47:40 +0000, "dennis@home"
wrote:

On 01/02/2018 08:37, MM wrote:
On 30 Jan 2018 18:06:06 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-30, MM wrote:
On 29 Jan 2018 14:29:04 GMT, Huge wrote:

Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

No, it doesn't.

Yes it does.

You're wrong. I get exactly the same performance whether My PC is
connected directly to the D-Link switch with a CAT6 cable or via a
TP-Link plug on the mains. Around 6.9 Mbps on ADSL.

MM


So it doesn't suck if you aren't really using it?

Well, I *am* using it and it's fine, as I previously mentioned.

How fast does it do a network backup to a NAS?

I don't have a NAS so I cannot answer your question.

Mine does 600Mb/s over WiFi.

That's very good news! (Remind me how WiFi through the mains works, as
I thought the "Wi" part is short for "wireless".)

MM

Well I have dennis killfiled but in the interst of accruate info

My TP link will sustain about 60Mpbs simplex over the mains.

That's a shade better than my wifi which is around 30Mbps simplex.

If I add a third TP link to the powerline network, performance
evaporates and the whole system locks up after a while. I conclude that
the collision detection is utter crap.

None of thes can touch te 100Mbps full duplex that a decent cat 5 canb
sustain and not only that, without isssues from other machiness on the
network exchanging traffic at the same trime.

Conclusin. Powerline is OK for one PC to connect to one router remotely
for onternet only.

It's a little better than most wifi.

Neither are a patch on CAT 5 wired. Especially to NAS.



--
There is something fascinating about science. One gets such wholesale
returns of conjecture out of such a trifling investment of fact.

Mark Twain

On 01/02/2018 23:59, T i m wrote:
On 1 Feb 2018 21:55:57 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:

On Thu, 01 Feb 2018 14:30:05 +0000, T i m wrote:

I have used Powerline adaptors in many locations (typically TP-Link
brand)
and have had no issues with them whatsoever.

However, others might have had issues with the RF interference caused by
your solution!

It's not my solution Bob, it's a legal / valid / approved solution.
;-)

Its not actually legal as if it does cause interference with licensed
frequencies you can be done.
At the least they will take the offending equipment away and destroy it
at your expense.