BG came around to my Mums to look at her combi which wouldnt supply hot
water when the CH wasnt calling for heat.

Apparently some crud in the valve which they sorted and to their credit,
they *didnt* try and sell her a new boiler. Instead they are pushing a
system €œpower flush€� for £600 which sounds a lot to me.

Assuming Im prepared to spend a day messing around looking for drain cocks
and bits of hosepipe, is there any reason I cant do this myself?

Is there a recommended flushing substance to treat the system with prior to
a full flush?

Tim


--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 22/01/2018 18:35, Tim+ wrote:

Apparently some crud in the valve which they sorted and to their credit,
they *didnt* try and sell her a new boiler. Instead they are pushing a
system €œpower flush€� for £600 which sounds a lot to me.

I'm pleased they didn't let me down entirely!

Did they offer her a MagnaClean for £300?





Assuming Im prepared to spend a day messing around looking for drain cocks
and bits of hosepipe, is there any reason I cant do this myself?

Is there a recommended flushing substance to treat the system with prior to
a full flush?

Tim

Tim+ wrote:
BG came around to my Mum's to look at her combi which wouldn't supply
hot water when the CH wasn't calling for heat.

Apparently some crud in the valve which they sorted and to their
credit, they *didn't* try and sell her a new boiler. Instead they are
pushing a system "power flush" for £600 which sounds a lot to me.

Assuming I'm prepared to spend a day messing around looking for drain
cocks and bits of hosepipe, is there any reason I can't do this
myself?

Is there a recommended flushing substance to treat the system with
prior to a full flush?

Tim

I've read that a power flush finds leaks in rads which if left alone would
not be leaking.
I'd leave well alone.

On 22/01/2018 18:59, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
Tim+ wrote:
BG came around to my Mum's to look at her combi which wouldn't supply
hot water when the CH wasn't calling for heat.

Apparently some crud in the valve which they sorted and to their
credit, they *didn't* try and sell her a new boiler. Instead they are
pushing a system "power flush" for £600 which sounds a lot to me.

Assuming I'm prepared to spend a day messing around looking for drain
cocks and bits of hosepipe, is there any reason I can't do this
myself?

Is there a recommended flushing substance to treat the system with
prior to a full flush?

Tim

I've read that a power flush finds leaks in rads which if left alone would
not be leaking.

If they are that knackered, they soon will be - power flush or not.




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 22/01/2018 18:35, Tim+ wrote:
BG came around to my Mums to look at her combi which wouldnt supply hot
water when the CH wasnt calling for heat.

Apparently some crud in the valve which they sorted and to their credit,
they *didnt* try and sell her a new boiler. Instead they are pushing a
system €œpower flush€� for £600 which sounds a lot to me.

Assuming Im prepared to spend a day messing around looking for drain cocks
and bits of hosepipe, is there any reason I cant do this myself?

No, its quite doable. You can even hire the power flush kit if you fancy
doing it that way.

Mains water flush works quite well IME. I did not bother taking each rad
out of circuit, but did arrange it so that each rad got full mains flow
all to itself for several mins by closing off flow to all rads bar the
one being flushed. would start it going wait til it ran clear, and then
give it a couple more mins (some suggest bumping it with a rubber hammer
as well to dislodge more crud). Then move through them one by one - open
flow through the next, close off the previous etc (i.e. making sure not
to cut off a water path altogether). When All are done, reverse the flow
direction and do it again:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...ating_flushing


Is there a recommended flushing substance to treat the system with prior to
a full flush?

Sentinel et al do system cleaners that you can lob in upto a couple of
weeks prior to flushing.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:
On 22/01/2018 18:35, Tim+ wrote:
BG came around to my Mums to look at her combi which wouldnt supply hot
water when the CH wasnt calling for heat.

Apparently some crud in the valve which they sorted and to their credit,
they *didnt* try and sell her a new boiler. Instead they are pushing a
system €œpower flush€� for £600 which sounds a lot to me.

Assuming Im prepared to spend a day messing around looking for drain cocks
and bits of hosepipe, is there any reason I cant do this myself?

No, its quite doable. You can even hire the power flush kit if you fancy
doing it that way.

Mains water flush works quite well IME. I did not bother taking each rad
out of circuit, but did arrange it so that each rad got full mains flow
all to itself for several mins by closing off flow to all rads bar the
one being flushed. would start it going wait til it ran clear, and then
give it a couple more mins (some suggest bumping it with a rubber hammer
as well to dislodge more crud). Then move through them one by one - open
flow through the next, close off the previous etc (i.e. making sure not
to cut off a water path altogether). When All are done, reverse the flow
direction and do it again:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...ating_flushing

Cheers.




Is there a recommended flushing substance to treat the system with prior to
a full flush?

Sentinel et al do system cleaners that you can lob in upto a couple of
weeks prior to flushing.

Is there any danger of them loosening crud that might then cause boiler
problems again?

Tim



--
Please don't feed the trolls

John Rumm wrote:
On 22/01/2018 18:59, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
Tim+ wrote:
BG came around to my Mum's to look at her combi which wouldn't
supply hot water when the CH wasn't calling for heat.

Apparently some crud in the valve which they sorted and to their
credit, they *didn't* try and sell her a new boiler. Instead they
are pushing a system "power flush" for £600 which sounds a lot to
me. Assuming I'm prepared to spend a day messing around looking for
drain cocks and bits of hosepipe, is there any reason I can't do
this myself?

Is there a recommended flushing substance to treat the system with
prior to a full flush?

Tim

I've read that a power flush finds leaks in rads which if left alone
would not be leaking.

If they are that knackered, they soon will be - power flush or not.

My rads are old as am I. My rads get Very hot. If it's not broken
........................





/================================================== ===============\
Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
-----------------------------------------------------------------|
John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 22/01/2018 20:58, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
On 22/01/2018 18:59, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
Tim+ wrote:
BG came around to my Mum's to look at her combi which wouldn't
supply hot water when the CH wasn't calling for heat.

Apparently some crud in the valve which they sorted and to their
credit, they *didn't* try and sell her a new boiler. Instead they
are pushing a system "power flush" for £600 which sounds a lot to
me. Assuming I'm prepared to spend a day messing around looking for
drain cocks and bits of hosepipe, is there any reason I can't do
this myself?

Is there a recommended flushing substance to treat the system with
prior to a full flush?

Tim

I've read that a power flush finds leaks in rads which if left alone
would not be leaking.

If they are that knackered, they soon will be - power flush or not.

My rads are old as am I. My rads get Very hot. If it's not broken

And?

If there is no need to flush, then there is no point in doing it.

However there are times when it is wise to flush a system: when newly
installed, or when significant work is done on it. When it no longer
working well due to accumulated sludge, or prior to installing a modern
boiler.

Not doing a flush in any of those circumstances just because you fear a
rad may spring a leak is daft. The cost of shagging a new boiler in
short order far exceeds the cost of a new rad.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Monday, 22 January 2018 20:47:05 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/01/2018 18:35, Tim+ wrote:
BG came around to my Mums to look at her combi which wouldnt supply hot
water when the CH wasnt calling for heat.

Apparently some crud in the valve which they sorted and to their credit,
they *didnt* try and sell her a new boiler. Instead they are pushing a
system €œpower flush€� for £600 which sounds a lot to me.

Assuming Im prepared to spend a day messing around looking for drain cocks
and bits of hosepipe, is there any reason I cant do this myself?

No, its quite doable. You can even hire the power flush kit if you fancy
doing it that way.

Mains water flush works quite well IME. I did not bother taking each rad
out of circuit, but did arrange it so that each rad got full mains flow
all to itself for several mins by closing off flow to all rads bar the
one being flushed. would start it going wait til it ran clear, and then
give it a couple more mins (some suggest bumping it with a rubber hammer
as well to dislodge more crud). Then move through them one by one - open
flow through the next, close off the previous etc (i.e. making sure not
to cut off a water path altogether). When All are done, reverse the flow
direction and do it again:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...ating_flushing


Is there a recommended flushing substance to treat the system with prior to
a full flush?

Sentinel et al do system cleaners that you can lob in upto a couple of
weeks prior to flushing.

I'd fit a magnetic filter and let it do all the work. Much easier. CH cleaner chemical is wonderful for loosening up the junk. Sentinel of Fernox, I forget which, can be left in as long as you want.


NT

On 22/01/2018 20:54, Tim+ wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
On 22/01/2018 18:35, Tim+ wrote:
BG came around to my Mums to look at her combi which wouldnt supply hot
water when the CH wasnt calling for heat.

Apparently some crud in the valve which they sorted and to their credit,
they *didnt* try and sell her a new boiler. Instead they are pushing a
system €œpower flush€� for £600 which sounds a lot to me.

Assuming Im prepared to spend a day messing around looking for drain cocks
and bits of hosepipe, is there any reason I cant do this myself?

No, its quite doable. You can even hire the power flush kit if you fancy
doing it that way.

Mains water flush works quite well IME. I did not bother taking each rad
out of circuit, but did arrange it so that each rad got full mains flow
all to itself for several mins by closing off flow to all rads bar the
one being flushed. would start it going wait til it ran clear, and then
give it a couple more mins (some suggest bumping it with a rubber hammer
as well to dislodge more crud). Then move through them one by one - open
flow through the next, close off the previous etc (i.e. making sure not
to cut off a water path altogether). When All are done, reverse the flow
direction and do it again:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...ating_flushing

Cheers.




Is there a recommended flushing substance to treat the system with prior to
a full flush?

Sentinel et al do system cleaners that you can lob in upto a couple of
weeks prior to flushing.

Is there any danger of them loosening crud that might then cause boiler
problems again?

You are better off taking the boiler out of circuit[1] so that you don't
flush any crud through it. Especially if its a modern boiler (the high
efficiency HX have lots of small water pathways and heatsink fins that
intrude into the flow - they are easy to block or erode with particulate
contaminated flow).

[1] either temporary re-pipig, or just turning off the flow and return
service valve.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 22/01/18 18:35, Tim+ wrote:
BG came around to my Mums to look at her combi which wouldnt supply hot
water when the CH wasnt calling for heat.

[..]]
Tim

Not only the same name but i have the same problem!
a plumber spent half last week cursing and head scratching and driving
into town for parts. It's worse than ever now. New heat exchanger tomorrow.
TW

TimW wrote:
On 22/01/18 18:35, Tim+ wrote:
BG came around to my Mums to look at her combi which wouldnt supply hot
water when the CH wasnt calling for heat.

[..]]
Tim

Not only the same name but i have the same problem!
a plumber spent half last week cursing and head scratching and driving
into town for parts. It's worse than ever now. New heat exchanger tomorrow.
TW


As was pointed out earlier, many €œplumbers€� are poorly qualified to do
repairs on boilers. If its a decent make like Vaillant, the manufacturer
will have their own service/repair crews who carry spares etc.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 22/01/2018 21:14, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/01/2018 20:54, Tim+ wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
On 22/01/2018 18:35, Tim+ wrote:
BG came around to my Mums to look at her combi which wouldnt
supply hot
water when the CH wasnt calling for heat.

Apparently some crud in the valve which they sorted and to their
credit,
they *didnt* try and sell her a new boiler. Instead they are pushing a
system €œpower flush€� for £600 which sounds a lot to me.

Assuming Im prepared to spend a day messing around looking for
drain cocks
and bits of hosepipe, is there any reason I cant do this myself?

No, its quite doable. You can even hire the power flush kit if you fancy
doing it that way.

Mains water flush works quite well IME. I did not bother taking each rad
out of circuit, but did arrange it so that each rad got full mains flow
all to itself for several mins by closing off flow to all rads bar the
one being flushed.Â* would start it going wait til it ran clear, and then
give it a couple more mins (some suggest bumping it with a rubber hammer
as well to dislodge more crud). Then move through them one by one - open
flow through the next, close off the previous etc (i.e. making sure not
to cut off a water path altogether). When All are done, reverse the flow
direction and do it again:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...ating_flushing

Cheers.




Is there a recommended flushing substance to treat the system with
prior to
a full flush?

Sentinel et al do system cleaners that you can lob in upto a couple of
weeks prior to flushing.

Is there any danger of them loosening crud that might then cause boiler
problems again?

You are better off taking the boiler out of circuit[1] so that you don't
flush any crud through it. Especially if its a modern boiler (the high
efficiency HX have lots of small water pathways and heatsink fins that
intrude into the flow - they are easy to block or erode with particulate
contaminated flow).

[1] either temporary re-pipig, or just turning off the flow and return
service valve.

I reckon a Magnaclean is not a bad investment. Apart from collecting
magnetite, they provide a quick and easy way to add inhibitor.

On 22/01/2018 23:26, Tim+ wrote:
TimW wrote:
On 22/01/18 18:35, Tim+ wrote:
BG came around to my Mums to look at her combi which wouldnt supply hot
water when the CH wasnt calling for heat.

[..]]
Tim

Not only the same name but i have the same problem!
a plumber spent half last week cursing and head scratching and driving
into town for parts. It's worse than ever now. New heat exchanger tomorrow.
TW


As was pointed out earlier, many €œplumbers€� are poorly qualified to do
repairs on boilers. If its a decent make like Vaillant, the manufacturer
will have their own service/repair crews who carry spares etc.

Tim

But at a price, I guess? Anyone got experience of them. Currently do my
own maintenance, but one day....

"newshound" wrote in message
o.uk...

As was pointed out earlier, many €œplumbers€� are poorly qualified to
do
repairs on boilers. If its a decent make like Vaillant, the
manufacturer
will have their own service/repair crews who carry spares etc.

Tim

But at a price, I guess? Anyone got experience of them. Currently do my
own maintenance, but one day....

always worth trying perhaps
one of my bar staff had a Baxi start leaking and blew it fuse over Christmas
tried a few local plumbers but nobody could turn out till the after new year
so she rung Baxi guy turned up next day and replaced the plastic diverter
valve free of charge said it was a known problem, boiler was well out of
warranty

-

On 23/01/2018 15:26, newshound wrote:
On 22/01/2018 21:14, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/01/2018 20:54, Tim+ wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
On 22/01/2018 18:35, Tim+ wrote:
BG came around to my Mums to look at her combi which wouldnt
supply hot
water when the CH wasnt calling for heat.

Apparently some crud in the valve which they sorted and to their
credit,
they *didnt* try and sell her a new boiler. Instead they are
pushing a
system €œpower flush€� for £600 which sounds a lot to me.

Assuming Im prepared to spend a day messing around looking for
drain cocks
and bits of hosepipe, is there any reason I cant do this myself?

No, its quite doable. You can even hire the power flush kit if you
fancy
doing it that way.

Mains water flush works quite well IME. I did not bother taking each
rad
out of circuit, but did arrange it so that each rad got full mains flow
all to itself for several mins by closing off flow to all rads bar the
one being flushed. would start it going wait til it ran clear, and
then
give it a couple more mins (some suggest bumping it with a rubber
hammer
as well to dislodge more crud). Then move through them one by one -
open
flow through the next, close off the previous etc (i.e. making sure not
to cut off a water path altogether). When All are done, reverse the
flow
direction and do it again:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...ating_flushing

Cheers.




Is there a recommended flushing substance to treat the system with
prior to
a full flush?

Sentinel et al do system cleaners that you can lob in upto a couple of
weeks prior to flushing.

Is there any danger of them loosening crud that might then cause boiler
problems again?

You are better off taking the boiler out of circuit[1] so that you
don't flush any crud through it. Especially if its a modern boiler
(the high efficiency HX have lots of small water pathways and heatsink
fins that intrude into the flow - they are easy to block or erode with
particulate contaminated flow).

[1] either temporary re-pipig, or just turning off the flow and return
service valve.

I reckon a Magnaclean is not a bad investment. Apart from collecting
magnetite, they provide a quick and easy way to add inhibitor.

In principle yup. I prefer the Fernox TF1, since it appears to have a
better cyclonic action for catching the non magnetic particulates in
addition to the magnet for the magnetite.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Tuesday, 23 January 2018 17:53:56 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/01/2018 15:26, newshound wrote:

I reckon a Magnaclean is not a bad investment. Apart from collecting
magnetite, they provide a quick and easy way to add inhibitor.

In principle yup. I prefer the Fernox TF1, since it appears to have a
better cyclonic action for catching the non magnetic particulates in
addition to the magnet for the magnetite.


The magnet is useful, but get one with a filter, that bit catches far more than the magnet


NT

On 23/01/2018 18:27, wrote:
On Tuesday, 23 January 2018 17:53:56 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/01/2018 15:26, newshound wrote:

I reckon a Magnaclean is not a bad investment. Apart from collecting
magnetite, they provide a quick and easy way to add inhibitor.

In principle yup. I prefer the Fernox TF1, since it appears to have a
better cyclonic action for catching the non magnetic particulates in
addition to the magnet for the magnetite.


The magnet is useful, but get one with a filter, that bit catches far more than the magnet

I have not seen any with a traditional filter as such - only magnetic
and cyclonic collection. Which one were you thinking of?


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Wednesday, 24 January 2018 11:09:55 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/01/2018 18:27, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 23 January 2018 17:53:56 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/01/2018 15:26, newshound wrote:

I reckon a Magnaclean is not a bad investment. Apart from collecting
magnetite, they provide a quick and easy way to add inhibitor.

In principle yup. I prefer the Fernox TF1, since it appears to have a
better cyclonic action for catching the non magnetic particulates in
addition to the magnet for the magnetite.


The magnet is useful, but get one with a filter, that bit catches far more than the magnet

I have not seen any with a traditional filter as such - only magnetic
and cyclonic collection. Which one were you thinking of?

Zeetec


NT

On 24/01/2018 14:14, wrote:
On Wednesday, 24 January 2018 11:09:55 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/01/2018 18:27, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 23 January 2018 17:53:56 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/01/2018 15:26, newshound wrote:

I reckon a Magnaclean is not a bad investment. Apart from collecting
magnetite, they provide a quick and easy way to add inhibitor.

In principle yup. I prefer the Fernox TF1, since it appears to have a
better cyclonic action for catching the non magnetic particulates in
addition to the magnet for the magnetite.


The magnet is useful, but get one with a filter, that bit catches far more than the magnet

I have not seen any with a traditional filter as such - only magnetic
and cyclonic collection. Which one were you thinking of?

Zeetec

As in:

http://www.zeetec.org/boiler-filter/

Looks interesting - would be interesting to know how it compares in
performance from say:

https://www.fernox.com/filters/tf1-total-filter

(Which uses a cyclonic action to collect the non mag particles but has
no mesh filter).





--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Wednesday, 24 January 2018 14:42:33 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 24/01/2018 14:14, tabbypurr wrote:
On Wednesday, 24 January 2018 11:09:55 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/01/2018 18:27, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 23 January 2018 17:53:56 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/01/2018 15:26, newshound wrote:

I reckon a Magnaclean is not a bad investment. Apart from collecting
magnetite, they provide a quick and easy way to add inhibitor.

In principle yup. I prefer the Fernox TF1, since it appears to have a
better cyclonic action for catching the non magnetic particulates in
addition to the magnet for the magnetite.


The magnet is useful, but get one with a filter, that bit catches far more than the magnet

I have not seen any with a traditional filter as such - only magnetic
and cyclonic collection. Which one were you thinking of?

Zeetec

As in:

http://www.zeetec.org/boiler-filter/

Looks interesting - would be interesting to know how it compares in
performance from say:

https://www.fernox.com/filters/tf1-total-filter

(Which uses a cyclonic action to collect the non mag particles but has
no mesh filter).

I've got a Zeetec & it works well. The great majority of crud is stopped by the mesh filter. It's easy to clean out. The body is very thick plastic. It's not cyclonic. I don't know how one would compare it to non-filter ones. And they're under £50 iirc.


NT

On Wed, 24 Jan 2018 14:42:36 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

On 24/01/2018 14:14, wrote:
On Wednesday, 24 January 2018 11:09:55 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/01/2018 18:27, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 23 January 2018 17:53:56 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/01/2018 15:26, newshound wrote:

I reckon a Magnaclean is not a bad investment. Apart from collecting
magnetite, they provide a quick and easy way to add inhibitor.

In principle yup. I prefer the Fernox TF1, since it appears to have a
better cyclonic action for catching the non magnetic particulates in
addition to the magnet for the magnetite.


The magnet is useful, but get one with a filter, that bit catches far more than the magnet

I have not seen any with a traditional filter as such - only magnetic
and cyclonic collection. Which one were you thinking of?

Zeetec

As in:

http://www.zeetec.org/boiler-filter/

Looks interesting - would be interesting to know how it compares in
performance from say:

https://www.fernox.com/filters/tf1-total-filter

(Which uses a cyclonic action to collect the non mag particles but has
no mesh filter).

The Fernox is for a vertical pipe with /upward/ flow - surely it would be
better in the Return pipe, so as to cut the crud before the boiler. Most of
the prticles are from the rads. and not wanted in the boiler.
I couln't fit one of these on my system as the only upward flow in the
Return is a short run under the boiler.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 25/01/2018 08:29, PeterC wrote:
On Wed, 24 Jan 2018 14:42:36 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

On 24/01/2018 14:14, wrote:
On Wednesday, 24 January 2018 11:09:55 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/01/2018 18:27, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 23 January 2018 17:53:56 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/01/2018 15:26, newshound wrote:

I reckon a Magnaclean is not a bad investment. Apart from collecting
magnetite, they provide a quick and easy way to add inhibitor.

In principle yup. I prefer the Fernox TF1, since it appears to have a
better cyclonic action for catching the non magnetic particulates in
addition to the magnet for the magnetite.


The magnet is useful, but get one with a filter, that bit catches far more than the magnet

I have not seen any with a traditional filter as such - only magnetic
and cyclonic collection. Which one were you thinking of?

Zeetec

As in:

http://www.zeetec.org/boiler-filter/

Looks interesting - would be interesting to know how it compares in
performance from say:

https://www.fernox.com/filters/tf1-total-filter

(Which uses a cyclonic action to collect the non mag particles but has
no mesh filter).

The Fernox is for a vertical pipe with /upward/ flow

No, it can be used in either horizontal or vertical and with flow in
either direction. However it comes set for upward flow by default, but
you can change it by rotating the collar prior to fixing.

- surely it would be
better in the Return pipe, so as to cut the crud before the boiler.

Since most boilers are wall mounted and piped from below, the return
probably will be flowing up in more cases than the other alternatives.

Most of
the prticles are from the rads. and not wanted in the boiler.
I couln't fit one of these on my system

Yes you could.

See the instructions on the bottom of page 2:

https://www.fernox.com/sites/default...lter_v.002.pdf


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/