The outer pane of a DG panel cracked on my conservatory roof, the inner pane was OK.
I wanted the quickest easiest repair so just removed the outer glass, squirted black roofing repair mastic around the rim and dropped a new pane of glass on, then replaced the wooden beading that held it in place.

Does anyone have any idea what problems I can expect and how soon?
I suppose the acrylic mastic seal will be permeable to water vapour and it will eventually mist up from the inside. How long have I got?

Has anyone done this before?

Rednadnerb Wrote in message:
The outer pane of a DG panel cracked on my conservatory roof, the inner pane was OK.
I wanted the quickest easiest repair so just removed the outer glass, squirted black roofing repair mastic around the rim and dropped a new pane of glass on, then replaced the wooden beading that held it in place.

Does anyone have any idea what problems I can expect and how soon?
I suppose the acrylic mastic seal will be permeable to water vapour and it will eventually mist up from the inside.

Some roofing mastics are butyl based which is similar to the
original black gunk they apply to seal a new unit.

The longer it sat there cracked will affect how much moisture has
already been absorbed by the dessicant in the spacer bar. Once
that is saturated the panes will mist.


How long have I got?


Piece of string.

Has anyone done this before?


Doubt it :-)

How much was a new DG unit vs the pane of glass, roofing mastic &
your time doing it twice?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Friday, 20 October 2017 09:11:47 UTC+1, Rednadnerb wrote:
The outer pane of a DG panel cracked on my conservatory roof, the inner pane was OK.
I wanted the quickest easiest repair so just removed the outer glass, squirted black roofing repair mastic around the rim and dropped a new pane of glass on, then replaced the wooden beading that held it in place.

Does anyone have any idea what problems I can expect and how soon?
I suppose the acrylic mastic seal will be permeable to water vapour and it will eventually mist up from the inside. How long have I got?

Has anyone done this before?

Roofing sealants aren't acrylic, they have to be waterproof. So if there are no gaps in your sealant you should be ok.


NT

You are right. It is 'polybutene based'. I have no idea what that is but it sounds good. As i pressed the glass down I could see the seal was good.

replying to Rednadnerb, Iggy wrote:
Depends what the DG was. If it was just DG with a dead-air space, then I
wouldn't expect anything different than what you had originally. If it was an
actual "insulated unit" with Low-E Coating and Argon Gas Insertion, then you
may regularly experience condensation with the absence of those components.
But, since you put the wood frame back on, then you gave a solid UV-barrier to
the mastic. I'd suspect you're good for at least a decade.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...g-1244247-.htm

Iggy m Wrote in
message:
replying to Rednadnerb, Iggy wrote:
Depends what the DG was. If it was just DG with a dead-air space, then I
wouldn't expect anything different than what you had originally. If it was an
actual "insulated unit" with Low-E Coating and Argon Gas Insertion, then you
may regularly experience condensation with the absence of those components.
But, since you put the wood frame back on, then you gave a solid UV-barrier to
the mastic. I'd suspect you're good for at least a decade.


**** me is that a #reply# from homo-owners.club?

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 20/10/2017 09:11, Rednadnerb wrote:
The outer pane of a DG panel cracked on my conservatory roof, the inner pane was OK.
I wanted the quickest easiest repair so just removed the outer glass, squirted black roofing repair mastic around the rim and dropped a new pane of glass on, then replaced the wooden beading that held it in place.

Does anyone have any idea what problems I can expect and how soon?
I suppose the acrylic mastic seal will be permeable to water vapour and it will eventually mist up from the inside. How long have I got?

Has anyone done this before?


The aluminium spacer is full of dessicant.
Its what keeps it dry.
If it has been used up you will get misting pretty soon.
You can buy it and replace it but you can probably claim on your
insurance for a new unit.

On Friday, 20 October 2017 13:14:04 UTC+1, Iggy wrote:
replying to Rednadnerb, Iggy wrote:
Depends what the DG was. If it was just DG with a dead-air space, then I
wouldn't expect anything different than what you had originally. If it was an
actual "insulated unit" with Low-E Coating and Argon Gas Insertion, then you
may regularly experience condensation with the absence of those components.
But, since you put the wood frame back on, then you gave a solid UV-barrier to
the mastic. I'd suspect you're good for at least a decade.

All dg sealed units are insulating units.
Condensation has no conection with use of argon & IR reflective coatings.

replying to tabbypurr, Iggy wrote:
Incorrect and his didn't fog once broken. The Argon (or even just dead-air
space) allows the glass to stay warm at all times and the Low-E is a radiant
barrier that minimizes solar and interior heat gain shocks.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...g-1244247-.htm

On Friday, 20 October 2017 20:44:04 UTC+1, Iggy wrote:
replying to tabbypurr, Iggy wrote:

Incorrect

what is?

and his didn't fog once broken.

what are you talking about?

The Argon (or even just dead-air
space) allows the glass to stay warm at all times

which glass do you mean, inner or outer or both?

and the Low-E is a radiant
barrier

yes

that minimizes solar and interior heat gain shocks.

no.


NT

On 20/10/2017 20:44, Iggy wrote:
replying to tabbypurr, Iggy wrote:
Incorrect and his didn't fog once broken. The Argon (or even just dead-air
space) allows the glass to stay warm at all times and the Low-E is a
radiant
barrier that minimizes solar and interior heat gain shocks.

You're welcome to post here but saying "Incorrect" doesn't help us know
what is incorrect. Context is everything.

This might assist you with posting to a newsgroup, albeit through a website:
https://tools.ietf.org/html/rfc1855

- If you are sending a reply to a message or a posting be sure you
summarize the original at the top of the message, or include just
enough text of the original to give a context.

replying to tabbypurr, Iggy wrote:
Doesn't matter, you said neither have any condensation avoidance value. Sorry
but, neither my previous 20-year old (before Low-E) nor my now 7-year old new
windows develop regular condensation. It takes just the right sudden (within
an hour) big humidity rise to get any condensation on my glass. Otherwise,
steadily high humidity outdoors doesn't develop condensation at all.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...g-1244247-.htm

replying to Fredxxx, Iggy wrote:
That's a shame. Thanks for the assistance, but I won't be sinking to usenet's
nor newsgroup's level.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...g-1244247-.htm

On Saturday, 21 October 2017 03:44:04 UTC+1, Iggy wrote:
replying to tabbypurr, Iggy wrote:

Doesn't matter,

what doesn't?

you said neither have any condensation avoidance value.

huh?

Sorry
but, neither my previous 20-year old (before Low-E) nor my now 7-year old new
windows develop regular condensation. It takes just the right sudden (within
an hour) big humidity rise to get any condensation on my glass. Otherwise,
steadily high humidity outdoors doesn't develop condensation at all.

You seem confused about who has said what, and your replies are too vague to know what half of them mean. Start by quoting what you're replying to.

replying to tabbypurr, Iggy wrote:
Oh, I see, Alzheimer's. I should've guessed. No problem, just go with the
first answer...it's the only accurate and sensible one. I suggest you refrain
from providing advice, since what you recall is completely wrong.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...g-1244247-.htm

On Saturday, 21 October 2017 13:14:07 UTC+1, Iggy wrote:
replying to tabbypurr, Iggy wrote:
Oh, I see, Alzheimer's. I should've guessed. No problem, just go with the
first answer...it's the only accurate and sensible one. I suggest you refrain
from providing advice, since what you recall is completely wrong.

I see you've still not learnt how usenet works.


NT