As per previous post I have now opened up the monitor and checked the
mains connection but cannot see anything wrong with it. (images attached)
The mains connection was intermittently cutting out, would make a slight
crackling noise, if the cable was wiggled it would reconnect. If I
jolted the desk it sits on it would also cut out on ocassion so I am
quite sure it is the mains connction but cant see anything.I also tried
a substitute mains cable but that made no difference.

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

On Tuesday, 17 October 2017 18:06:57 UTC+1, ss wrote:
As per previous post I have now opened up the monitor and checked the
mains connection but cannot see anything wrong with it. (images attached)
The mains connection was intermittently cutting out, would make a slight
crackling noise, if the cable was wiggled it would reconnect. If I
jolted the desk it sits on it would also cut out on ocassion so I am
quite sure it is the mains connction but cant see anything.I also tried
a substitute mains cable but that made no difference.

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

It does look OK although there's a line on the soldering pad of £L1 in the centre of the frame, might be worth resoldering that. Also it could be the pins of that plug not connecting to your new cable socket due to wear or dirt so might be an idea to clean/polish the pins. On a friends monitor the pins were slightly bent too, but that just needed a new cable socket.

On 17/10/2017 18:06, ss wrote:

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

How tight is that fuse in its holder? (the white bodied item to the
right of the blue capacitor)

--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

ss wrote:
As per previous post I have now opened up the monitor and checked the
mains connection but cannot see anything wrong with it. (images
attached) The mains connection was intermittently cutting out, would
make a slight crackling noise, if the cable was wiggled it would
reconnect. If I jolted the desk it sits on it would also cut out on
ocassion so I am quite sure it is the mains connction but cant see
anything.I also tried a substitute mains cable but that made no
difference.
Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

Dirty mains connection on the monitor?
Try cleaning the plug connection on the monitor using a toothbrush with
meths on it.
Mrs Pounder had a mobile phone that would not charge, I used the above
method on the phone charging insert thing and the phone now charges up with
no problems.
The insert thing on the phone did not look to be dirty.

On Tue, 17 Oct 2017 18:22:56 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 17/10/2017 18:06, ss wrote:

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

How tight is that fuse in its holder? (the white bodied item to the
right of the blue capacitor)

Wouldn't the answer be 'very' as they are normally spot welded into
the 'holders'?

Cheers, T i m

Well no use showing a picture to me mate. However if you can actually here
it then there're probably signs of the connection sparking. The usual
culprit is the connections on the pcb if its a pcb mounted mains connector,
failing that if the stress on the socket is the problem the connection on
the socket itself, often crimped or welded can become loose or corroded or
worn. If you can trace the connections through from pin to wire best use a
meter and wiggle things and see what gives, literally. The last one of these
I met was on a Philips device and it turned out to be dry joints on the pcb
where the ends of the mains socket was soldered. Heat them up well and apply
leadeed solder but be aware that another problem can be the foil lifting and
cracking and then you have to start thinking about bridging cracks with
wire. I'd definitely find somebody used to working on pcbs before you
experiment on it yourself. I used to be good at it but not with no sight!

Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"ss" wrote in message
...
As per previous post I have now opened up the monitor and checked the
mains connection but cannot see anything wrong with it. (images attached)
The mains connection was intermittently cutting out, would make a slight
crackling noise, if the cable was wiggled it would reconnect. If I jolted
the desk it sits on it would also cut out on ocassion so I am quite sure
it is the mains connction but cant see anything.I also tried a substitute
mains cable but that made no difference.

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

I have had fuses that were in themselves intermittent in the past, but worth
a look.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 17/10/2017 18:06, ss wrote:

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

How tight is that fuse in its holder? (the white bodied item to the right
of the blue capacitor)

--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

You would be surprised, I can assure you.


Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Oct 2017 18:22:56 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 17/10/2017 18:06, ss wrote:

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

How tight is that fuse in its holder? (the white bodied item to the
right of the blue capacitor)

Wouldn't the answer be 'very' as they are normally spot welded into
the 'holders'?

Cheers, T i m

Are we talking a low voltage connection or a mains voltage one here?
If its low voltage it is almost certainly the socket from past experience.
If mains level usually the soldering.
Of course either way if you can trace the wires, justcut out the plug and
socket drill a hole fit a strain relief and solder the cabble onto the pcb.
No more plug troubles!

Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Mr Pounder Esquire" wrote in message
news
ss wrote:
As per previous post I have now opened up the monitor and checked the
mains connection but cannot see anything wrong with it. (images
attached) The mains connection was intermittently cutting out, would
make a slight crackling noise, if the cable was wiggled it would
reconnect. If I jolted the desk it sits on it would also cut out on
ocassion so I am quite sure it is the mains connction but cant see
anything.I also tried a substitute mains cable but that made no
difference.
Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

Dirty mains connection on the monitor?
Try cleaning the plug connection on the monitor using a toothbrush with
meths on it.
Mrs Pounder had a mobile phone that would not charge, I used the above
method on the phone charging insert thing and the phone now charges up
with no problems.
The insert thing on the phone did not look to be dirty.

On Tue, 17 Oct 2017 19:35:57 +0100, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

You would be surprised, I can assure you.

I'm happy to be surprised but I'm not sure that will assure me at all.
;-)

What you probably can't see is that I don't believe that it is a
'fuseholder', it's a std glass bodied fuse that has been spot welded
into two wired end caps that are then soldered into the board like any
other component. That's not to say they missed out on the spot-welding
phase of course ...

Cheers, T i m

"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Oct 2017 18:22:56 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 17/10/2017 18:06, ss wrote:

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

How tight is that fuse in its holder? (the white bodied item to the
right of the blue capacitor)

Wouldn't the answer be 'very' as they are normally spot welded into
the 'holders'?

Looks more like a replaceable fuse to me.

On Tuesday, 17 October 2017 18:06:57 UTC+1, ss wrote:
As per previous post I have now opened up the monitor and checked the
mains connection but cannot see anything wrong with it. (images attached)
The mains connection was intermittently cutting out, would make a slight
crackling noise, if the cable was wiggled it would reconnect. If I
jolted the desk it sits on it would also cut out on ocassion so I am
quite sure it is the mains connction but cant see anything.I also tried
a substitute mains cable but that made no difference.

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

welcome to uk.d-i-y doing electronics, more noise than signal.

On 18/10/17 01:03, wrote:
On Tuesday, 17 October 2017 18:06:57 UTC+1, ss wrote:
As per previous post I have now opened up the monitor and checked the
mains connection but cannot see anything wrong with it. (images attached)
The mains connection was intermittently cutting out, would make a slight
crackling noise, if the cable was wiggled it would reconnect. If I
jolted the desk it sits on it would also cut out on ocassion so I am
quite sure it is the mains connction but cant see anything.I also tried
a substitute mains cable but that made no difference.

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

welcome to uk.d-i-y doing electronics, more noise than signal.

mostly contributed by you.

A can of freeze spray is one way to identify any rocky joints.
Resoldering them all is cheaper. I once resoldred every single eyelet on
a TV set I had - at least 4 were dodgy, and I never identified which
ones they were, but the faults disappered one by one as areas of the
board were soldered.






--
Any fool can believe in principles - and most of them do!

On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:19:54 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"T i m" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 17 Oct 2017 18:22:56 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 17/10/2017 18:06, ss wrote:

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

How tight is that fuse in its holder? (the white bodied item to the
right of the blue capacitor)

Wouldn't the answer be 'very' as they are normally spot welded into
the 'holders'?

Looks more like a replaceable fuse to me.

It is, as long as you have a soldering iron. It's a ceramic, wire
ended or 'pigtail' fuse.

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...lnHTCMfZ8Q.jpg

HTH

Cheers, T i m

On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 07:11:47 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

On 18/10/17 01:03, wrote:
On Tuesday, 17 October 2017 18:06:57 UTC+1, ss wrote:
As per previous post I have now opened up the monitor and checked the
mains connection but cannot see anything wrong with it. (images attached)
The mains connection was intermittently cutting out, would make a slight
crackling noise, if the cable was wiggled it would reconnect. If I
jolted the desk it sits on it would also cut out on ocassion so I am
quite sure it is the mains connction but cant see anything.I also tried
a substitute mains cable but that made no difference.

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

welcome to uk.d-i-y doing electronics, more noise than signal.

mostly contributed by you.

A can of freeze spray is one way to identify any rocky joints.
Resoldering them all is cheaper. I once resoldred every single eyelet on
a TV set I had - at least 4 were dodgy, and I never identified which
ones they were, but the faults disappered one by one as areas of the
board were soldered.

I was looking at the ends of the IEC plug pins where they are split to
retain them in the uprights that in-turn are soldered into the PCB. I
wonder if the OP can move the pins at all as they should be solid (and
given there is no other obvious issue)?

Cheers, T i m

On 18/10/2017 07:37, T i m wrote:
I was looking at the ends of the IEC plug pins where they are split to
retain them in the uprights that in-turn are soldered into the PCB. I
wonder if the OP can move the pins at all as they should be solid (and
given there is no other obvious issue)?

Everything appears to be rock solid including the fuse, I cant see any
movement at all.

On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 08:20:23 +0100, ss wrote:

On 18/10/2017 07:37, T i m wrote:
I was looking at the ends of the IEC plug pins where they are split to
retain them in the uprights that in-turn are soldered into the PCB. I
wonder if the OP can move the pins at all as they should be solid (and
given there is no other obvious issue)?

Everything appears to be rock solid including the fuse, I cant see any
movement at all.

Ok, so what about where the ends of the pins are split to hold them in
the socket itself, do they look 100% and could you clean them up and
get a bigish iron in there (and some flux etc) and solder them in as
well?

If you had a continuity tester (beeper) you could clip one end onto
the mains plug (L then N etc) and put the other probe around the back
of the socket / PCB as you wiggle the plug etc? Much easier to hear
than see on an ohmmeter (especially digital) and safer than trying the
same on the mains etc.

Cheers, T i m

On 18/10/2017 08:32, T i m wrote:
Ok, so what about where the ends of the pins are split to hold them in
the socket itself, do they look 100% and could you clean them up and
get a bigish iron in there (and some flux etc) and solder them in as
well?

If you had a continuity tester (beeper) you could clip one end onto
the mains plug (L then N etc) and put the other probe around the back
of the socket / PCB as you wiggle the plug etc? Much easier to hear
than see on an ohmmeter (especially digital) and safer than trying the
same on the mains etc.

Yes I have a continuity tester so will have a go with that later today.
I will see what I can access with the soldering iron.
I am fast approaching the nothing to lose stage :-)

On 18/10/2017 07:33, T i m wrote:
On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:19:54 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Oct 2017 18:22:56 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 17/10/2017 18:06, ss wrote:

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

How tight is that fuse in its holder? (the white bodied item to the
right of the blue capacitor)

Wouldn't the answer be 'very' as they are normally spot welded into
the 'holders'?

Looks more like a replaceable fuse to me.

It is, as long as you have a soldering iron. It's a ceramic, wire
ended or 'pigtail' fuse.

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...lnHTCMfZ8Q.jpg

HTH

Cheers, T i m


Either way, it might be worth shorting it temporarily and seeing whether
the problems persist. If the problem is something else, very difficult
to fix, the monitor will need to be thrown out anyway.

On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 08:57:15 +0100, ss wrote:

On 18/10/2017 08:32, T i m wrote:
Ok, so what about where the ends of the pins are split to hold them in
the socket itself, do they look 100% and could you clean them up and
get a bigish iron in there (and some flux etc) and solder them in as
well?

If you had a continuity tester (beeper) you could clip one end onto
the mains plug (L then N etc) and put the other probe around the back
of the socket / PCB as you wiggle the plug etc? Much easier to hear
than see on an ohmmeter (especially digital) and safer than trying the
same on the mains etc.

Yes I have a continuity tester so will have a go with that later today.

Good for intermittent connections as they normally screech and wail.
;-)

I will see what I can access with the soldering iron.

If you do try that it will need to be a big iron to 1) Get enough heat
in there to get the solder to flow round the pin and plate and 2) get
enough heat in there quickly, no as to not overheat / melt the socket.

I am fast approaching the nothing to lose stage :-)

That's always a good POV for such things. ;-)

If it does turn out to be the socket and you can't find a replacement
easily, you could always add a flying socket by cutting an IEC
extension lead in half and just making sure it's retained properly at
the screen end.

Or, depending on cable access, just a straight mains lead soldered
directly etc?

Cheers, T i m

On 18/10/2017 01:03, wrote:

welcome to uk.d-i-y doing electronics, more noise than signal.

That's a bit unkind, but I much prefer things I can see, and those
itty-bitty electrons are so small and quick!

On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:05:01 +0100, GB
wrote:

snip

It is, as long as you have a soldering iron. It's a ceramic, wire
ended or 'pigtail' fuse.

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...lnHTCMfZ8Q.jpg

HTH


Either way, it might be worth shorting it temporarily and seeing whether
the problems persist.

As long as you have the correct rated fused in the mains plug, yes.

If the problem is something else, very difficult
to fix,

How do you know that? It sounds like a 'mechanical' fault and so
likely just a crack, bad component or dry joint.

the monitor will need to be thrown out anyway.

Time will tell. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:19:54 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"T i m" wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 17 Oct 2017 18:22:56 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 17/10/2017 18:06, ss wrote:

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

How tight is that fuse in its holder? (the white bodied item to the
right of the blue capacitor)

Wouldn't the answer be 'very' as they are normally spot welded into
the 'holders'?

Looks more like a replaceable fuse to me.

It is, as long as you have a soldering iron. It's a ceramic, wire
ended or 'pigtail' fuse.

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...lnHTCMfZ8Q.jpg

That doesn't have the double metal cap on each end and the pic
at the top doesn't have any evidence of an axial wire either.

HTH

It didn't.

On Wednesday, 18 October 2017 10:08:30 UTC+1, GB wrote:
On 18/10/2017 01:03, tabbypurr wrote:

welcome to uk.d-i-y doing electronics, more noise than signal.

That's a bit unkind, but I much prefer things I can see, and those
itty-bitty electrons are so small and quick!

Better to caution people asking for advice really. Sci.electronics.repair is a suitable ng.


NT

On 18/10/2017 10:12, T i m wrote:
On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:05:01 +0100, GB
wrote:

snip

It is, as long as you have a soldering iron. It's a ceramic, wire
ended or 'pigtail' fuse.

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...lnHTCMfZ8Q.jpg

HTH


Either way, it might be worth shorting it temporarily and seeing whether
the problems persist.

As long as you have the correct rated fused in the mains plug, yes.

If the problem is something else, very difficult
to fix,

How do you know that?

I nearly changed that to read "If the problem is something else, that
turns out to be very difficult to fix".

"GB" wrote in message
news
On 18/10/2017 07:33, T i m wrote:
On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:19:54 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Oct 2017 18:22:56 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 17/10/2017 18:06, ss wrote:

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

How tight is that fuse in its holder? (the white bodied item to the
right of the blue capacitor)

Wouldn't the answer be 'very' as they are normally spot welded into
the 'holders'?

Looks more like a replaceable fuse to me.

It is, as long as you have a soldering iron. It's a ceramic, wire
ended or 'pigtail' fuse.

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...lnHTCMfZ8Q.jpg

HTH

Either way, it might be worth shorting it temporarily and seeing whether
the problems persist. If the problem is something else, very difficult to
fix,

Nope, easy enough to use a multimeter and see where
the cracked trace or dry joint is with a fault like that.

the monitor will need to be thrown out anyway.

Nope, both are trivially fixed.

On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:08:26 +0100, GB wrote:

On 18/10/2017 01:03, wrote:

welcome to uk.d-i-y doing electronics, more noise than signal.

That's a bit unkind, but I much prefer things I can see, and those
itty-bitty electrons are so small and quick!

It's so hard to get an angle grinder on them.

And WD-40 makes them stick together.

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:22:13 +0100, GB
wrote:

On 18/10/2017 10:12, T i m wrote:
On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:05:01 +0100, GB
wrote:

snip

It is, as long as you have a soldering iron. It's a ceramic, wire
ended or 'pigtail' fuse.

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...lnHTCMfZ8Q.jpg

HTH


Either way, it might be worth shorting it temporarily and seeing whether
the problems persist.

As long as you have the correct rated fused in the mains plug, yes.

If the problem is something else, very difficult
to fix,

How do you know that?

I nearly changed that to read "If the problem is something else, that
turns out to be very difficult to fix".

Ah. ;-)

The thing is, 'difficulty' can be a function of experience, logic and
luck.

I fixed someone's 'dead' TV the other day by changing one diode (well,
I replaced 4 but only one was faulty). *Very* straightforward and easy
repair, once you knew what the fault was. ;-)

Luckily, pretty well anything that can go bad and is worth repairing
is covered somewhere on the Interwebs these days so you often don't
have to do much diagnostic work. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 20:13:16 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"T i m" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:19:54 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Oct 2017 18:22:56 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 17/10/2017 18:06, ss wrote:

Anything else I should try while I have it apart (I am not electronic
literate)

https://imgur.com/a/dKRYP
https://imgur.com/a/FxJPr

How tight is that fuse in its holder? (the white bodied item to the
right of the blue capacitor)

Wouldn't the answer be 'very' as they are normally spot welded into
the 'holders'?

Looks more like a replaceable fuse to me.

It is, as long as you have a soldering iron. It's a ceramic, wire
ended or 'pigtail' fuse.

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...lnHTCMfZ8Q.jpg

That doesn't have the double metal cap on each end and the pic
at the top doesn't have any evidence of an axial wire either.

That's because you are stupid mate.

HTH

It didn't.

It wasn't expected to help you, just people who aren't stupid.

HTH.

Cheers, T i m

On 18/10/2017 12:36, T i m wrote:
On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:22:13 +0100, GB
wrote:

On 18/10/2017 10:12, T i m wrote:
On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:05:01 +0100, GB
wrote:

snip

It is, as long as you have a soldering iron. It's a ceramic, wire
ended or 'pigtail' fuse.

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...lnHTCMfZ8Q.jpg

HTH


Either way, it might be worth shorting it temporarily and seeing whether
the problems persist.

As long as you have the correct rated fused in the mains plug, yes.

If the problem is something else, very difficult
to fix,

How do you know that?

I nearly changed that to read "If the problem is something else, that
turns out to be very difficult to fix".

Ah. ;-)

The thing is, 'difficulty' can be a function of experience, logic and
luck.

Absolutely. But the OP did say "Anything else I should try while I have
it apart (I am not electronic literate)".

I am similarly fairly illiterate with electronics. It limits what we can
do, particularly as we probably don't have the right tools.



I fixed someone's 'dead' TV the other day by changing one diode (well,
I replaced 4 but only one was faulty). *Very* straightforward and easy
repair, once you knew what the fault was. ;-)

I know what a diode is and does, but I'm not sure I'd try replacing one.
Perhaps I'm just being wimpish.



Luckily, pretty well anything that can go bad and is worth repairing
is covered somewhere on the Interwebs these days so you often don't
have to do much diagnostic work. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 14:10:00 +0100, GB
wrote:

snip

The thing is, 'difficulty' can be a function of experience, logic and
luck.

Absolutely. But the OP did say "Anything else I should try while I have
it apart (I am not electronic literate)".

But he did ask, so (I'd assume) keen to try stuff.

I am similarly fairly illiterate with electronics.

Ok and no reason why you should be etc (everybody to their own' etc).

It limits what we can
do, particularly as we probably don't have the right tools.

Quite. Luckily the only thing anyone has referenced toolwise the OP
seems to have. ;-)


I fixed someone's 'dead' TV the other day by changing one diode (well,
I replaced 4 but only one was faulty). *Very* straightforward and easy
repair, once you knew what the fault was. ;-)

I know what a diode is and does, but I'm not sure I'd try replacing one.

Well, as long as we are talking 'through hole' components it nearly
doesn't matter what they are (with some provisos etc).

Perhaps I'm just being wimpish.

Cautious maybe and that's not a bad thing sometime (especially when
iniquitous looking devices can store lethal voltages or conversely, be
damaged just by you touching them).

I actually enjoy soldering and especially assembling (good) kits (as
you get to do all the soldering and hopefully see it work straight
away without all the component chasing).

We got our daughter soldering from a very early age (5 I think) and
she assembled an LED kitchen timer kit that we still use nearly daily.
;-)

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I have a few mates who whilst they can solder, they often ask me
to do the 'tricky stuff' because they know I like and am reasonably
good at it (although the skill is often more in de-soldering (without
damage) than soldering per-se). I just repaired my Weller soldering
station and realised it's over 40 years old! That's built an entire
disco (amps, mixers, light controllers etc), numerous RC models,
hundreds of general projects, repaired 100's of things (the last being
re-building the wiring loom that feeds the tailgate on our car) and
even done quite a bit on the kitcar. ;-)

"GB" wrote in message
news
On 18/10/2017 12:36, T i m wrote:
On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:22:13 +0100, GB
wrote:

On 18/10/2017 10:12, T i m wrote:
On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:05:01 +0100, GB
wrote:

snip

It is, as long as you have a soldering iron. It's a ceramic, wire
ended or 'pigtail' fuse.

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...lnHTCMfZ8Q.jpg

HTH


Either way, it might be worth shorting it temporarily and seeing
whether
the problems persist.

As long as you have the correct rated fused in the mains plug, yes.

If the problem is something else, very difficult
to fix,

How do you know that?

I nearly changed that to read "If the problem is something else, that
turns out to be very difficult to fix".

Ah. ;-)

The thing is, 'difficulty' can be a function of experience, logic and
luck.

Absolutely. But the OP did say "Anything else I should try while I have it
apart (I am not electronic literate)".

I am similarly fairly illiterate with electronics. It limits what we can
do, particularly as we probably don't have the right tools.



I fixed someone's 'dead' TV the other day by changing one diode (well,
I replaced 4 but only one was faulty). *Very* straightforward and easy
repair, once you knew what the fault was. ;-)

I know what a diode is and does, but I'm not sure I'd try replacing one.
Perhaps I'm just being wimpish.

Yes you are, its very easy to do.

Certainly makes no sense for someone like you to diagnose
the failure of a complex ic, let alone try replacing one, but is
very easy to replace diodes and bulging caps etc and to
resolder dry joints on major components and thats usually
where they occur for a reason.

Luckily, pretty well anything that can go bad and is worth repairing
is covered somewhere on the Interwebs these days so you often don't
have to do much diagnostic work. ;-)

On 18/10/2017 18:55, Rod Speed wrote:


"GB" wrote in message
news
On 18/10/2017 12:36, T i m wrote:
On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:22:13 +0100, GB
wrote:

On 18/10/2017 10:12, T i m wrote:
On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:05:01 +0100, GB
wrote:

snip

It is, as long as you have a soldering iron. It's a ceramic, wire
ended or 'pigtail' fuse.

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...lnHTCMfZ8Q.jpg

HTH


Either way, it might be worth shorting it temporarily and seeing
whether
the problems persist.

As long as you have the correct rated fused in the mains plug, yes.

If the problem is something else, very difficult
to fix,

How do you know that?

I nearly changed that to read "If the problem is something else, that
turns out to be very difficult to fix".

Ah. ;-)

The thing is, 'difficulty' can be a function of experience, logic and
luck.

Absolutely. But the OP did say "Anything else I should try while I
have it apart (I am not electronic literate)".

I am similarly fairly illiterate with electronics. It limits what we
can do, particularly as we probably don't have the right tools.



I fixed someone's 'dead' TV the other day by changing one diode (well,
I replaced 4 but only one was faulty). *Very* straightforward and easy
repair, once you knew what the fault was. ;-)

I know what a diode is and does, but I'm not sure I'd try replacing
one. Perhaps I'm just being wimpish.

Yes you are, its very easy to do.

I'd have a 50/50 chance of putting it in the right way round. )))


Certainly makes no sense for someone like you to diagnose
the failure of a complex ic, let alone try replacing one, but is
very easy to replace diodes and bulging caps etc and to
resolder dry joints on major components and thats usually
where they occur for a reason.

I'll try to be less wimpish.



Luckily, pretty well anything that can go bad and is worth repairing
is covered somewhere on the Interwebs these days so you often don't
have to do much diagnostic work. ;-)

On 18/10/2017 10:54, Bob Eager wrote:
On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 10:08:26 +0100, GB wrote:

On 18/10/2017 01:03, wrote:

welcome to uk.d-i-y doing electronics, more noise than signal.

That's a bit unkind, but I much prefer things I can see, and those
itty-bitty electrons are so small and quick!

It's so hard to get an angle grinder on them.

And WD-40 makes them stick together.


..........." If you had a continuity tester (beeper) you could clip one
end onto
the mains plug (L then N etc) and put the other probe around the back
of the socket / PCB as you wiggle the plug etc? Much easier to hear
than see on an ohmmeter (especially digital) and safer than trying the
same on the mains etc.

Yes I have a continuity tester so will have a go with that later today.

Good for intermittent connections as they normally screech and
wail."...........

Update:
Using continuity tester I could not find anything however when I then
`plugged` the mains lead in (at the monitor end only) when wiggled as
this gave a bit more leverage then the continuity was intermittently
broken, this only appears to happen on the live wire connection so
hopefully I am getting to the source of the problem. I also tried a
second lead and the same result. I still cant see any `movement` but it
does point to one of two connections. Hopefully tomorrow I can confirm
which one and attempt a fix.

On Wed, 18 Oct 2017 22:38:32 +0100, ss wrote:

snip

Update:
Using continuity tester I could not find anything however when I then
`plugged` the mains lead in (at the monitor end only) when wiggled as
this gave a bit more leverage then the continuity was intermittently
broken,

Where was the meter connected at this point, the live pin on the mains
plug and somewhere on the live connection on the PCB (presumably).

this only appears to happen on the live wire connection so
hopefully I am getting to the source of the problem. I also tried a
second lead and the same result. I still cant see any `movement` but it
does point to one of two connections. Hopefully tomorrow I can confirm
which one and attempt a fix.

I would then,with one end of your meter on the live pin of the plug,
first touch the back of the (live) pin where it comes out of the back
of the socket and wiggle, and then the metal that carries that live
down to the PCB, than the PCB ('in' end of the fuse etc) and wiggle
again. Assuming it's not two bad leads, chances are it's where the
live pin in the IEC socket is peened over that is the problem. To pin
it down further you could do the same exercise but with the lead
clipped to some pointed nose pliers whilst you use them to wiggle the
pin etc?

Cheers, T i m