Hi all

Started up the central heating again to find that the downstairs
is getting no heat

Wireless stat calling for heat, base unit calling for heat but diddly.
Checking out the valve it appears to be stuck in the just about
open position. The manual lever is free floating across just
about the whole travel. But the valve doesn't seem to be making
the limit switch.
From what I've googled so far, it looks like I just have to:
Undo one screw and slide off cover
Undo two diagonally opposite screws and lift off head
Free off valve with pliers on valve spindle
Refit head
Test
Did I miss anything here? The refitting of the head I think needs
to be done with the manual lever pushed against the spring effort
of the head assembly. Anyone confirm this please?
Finally, can I turn the heating on with the head removed and call
for heat to test the operation of the motor?

Thanks for any clarification.

Phil
--


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On 18/09/2017 19:57, TheChief wrote:
Hi all

Started up the central heating again to find that the downstairs
is getting no heat

Wireless stat calling for heat, base unit calling for heat but diddly.
Checking out the valve it appears to be stuck in the just about
open position. The manual lever is free floating across just
about the whole travel. But the valve doesn't seem to be making
the limit switch.
From what I've googled so far, it looks like I just have to:
Undo one screw and slide off cover
Undo two diagonally opposite screws and lift off head
Free off valve with pliers on valve spindle

Bit of lubrication on the spindle can help here as well.

Refit head
Test
Did I miss anything here?

Nope, that seems to cover it.

The refitting of the head I think needs
to be done with the manual lever pushed against the spring effort
of the head assembly. Anyone confirm this please?

Basically just rotate the whole body of the head until it drops into
place on the spindle, then straighten it to the position where you can
refit the screws to fix it to the wet bit of the valve.

Finally, can I turn the heating on with the head removed and call
for heat to test the operation of the motor?

Yup, as long as the micro-switch at the end of travel closes the system
will see it as "working" even if its not mechanically connected to the
valve.

(obviously better to do this with the valve manually left in the "open"
position so you are not running the pump against a closed valve)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm Wrote in message:
On 18/09/2017 19:57, TheChief wrote:
Hi all

Started up the central heating again to find that the downstairs
is getting no heat

Wireless stat calling for heat, base unit calling for heat but diddly.
Checking out the valve it appears to be stuck in the just about
open position. The manual lever is free floating across just
about the whole travel. But the valve doesn't seem to be making
the limit switch.
From what I've googled so far, it looks like I just have to:
Undo one screw and slide off cover
Undo two diagonally opposite screws and lift off head
Free off valve with pliers on valve spindle

Bit of lubrication on the spindle can help here as well.

Refit head
Test
Did I miss anything here?

Nope, that seems to cover it.

The refitting of the head I think needs
to be done with the manual lever pushed against the spring effort
of the head assembly. Anyone confirm this please?

Basically just rotate the whole body of the head until it drops into
place on the spindle, then straighten it to the position where you can
refit the screws to fix it to the wet bit of the valve.

Finally, can I turn the heating on with the head removed and call
for heat to test the operation of the motor?

Yup, as long as the micro-switch at the end of travel closes the system
will see it as "working" even if its not mechanically connected to the
valve.

(obviously better to do this with the valve manually left in the "open"
position so you are not running the pump against a closed valve)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/


Thanks John
Will give that a go next weekend, alongside the obligatory header
tank clean out

Phil
--


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On Monday, 18 September 2017 19:57:59 UTC+1, TheChief wrote:
Hi all

Started up the central heating again to find that the downstairs
is getting no heat

Wireless stat calling for heat, base unit calling for heat but diddly.
Checking out the valve it appears to be stuck in the just about
open position. The manual lever is free floating across just
about the whole travel. But the valve doesn't seem to be making
the limit switch.

a common problem is the gear teeth are gone so the motor doesn't move the valve spindle.

From what I've googled so far, it looks like I just have to:
Undo one screw and slide off cover
Undo two diagonally opposite screws and lift off head
Free off valve with pliers on valve spindle

if that's the problem

Refit head
Test
Did I miss anything here? The refitting of the head I think needs
to be done with the manual lever pushed against the spring effort
of the head assembly. Anyone confirm this please?

just put it in the same position it was in when you removed it

Finally, can I turn the heating on with the head removed and call
for heat to test the operation of the motor?

yes

Thanks for any clarification.

Phil

NT

On 18/09/17 19:57, TheChief wrote:
Hi all

Started up the central heating again to find that the downstairs
is getting no heat

Wireless stat calling for heat, base unit calling for heat but diddly.
Checking out the valve it appears to be stuck in the just about
open position. The manual lever is free floating across just
about the whole travel. But the valve doesn't seem to be making
the limit switch.
From what I've googled so far, it looks like I just have to:
Undo one screw and slide off cover
Undo two diagonally opposite screws and lift off head
Free off valve with pliers on valve spindle
Refit head
Test
Did I miss anything here?

Nope. But not all valves will free off.
Worst case is drain down whole system abnd finagle new valve in place of
old.


The refitting of the head I think needs
to be done with the manual lever pushed against the spring effort
of the head assembly. Anyone confirm this please?
Finally, can I turn the heating on with the head removed and call
for heat to test the operation of the motor?

Thanks for any clarification.

Phil



--
€œSome people like to travel by train because it combines the slowness of
a car with the cramped public exposure of €¨an airplane.€�

Dennis Miller

On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 21:39:36 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 18/09/2017 19:57, TheChief wrote:
Hi all

Started up the central heating again to find that the downstairs
is getting no heat

Wireless stat calling for heat, base unit calling for heat but diddly.
Checking out the valve it appears to be stuck in the just about
open position. The manual lever is free floating across just
about the whole travel. But the valve doesn't seem to be making
the limit switch.
From what I've googled so far, it looks like I just have to:
Undo one screw and slide off cover
Undo two diagonally opposite screws and lift off head
Free off valve with pliers on valve spindle

Bit of lubrication on the spindle can help here as well.

Refit head
Test
Did I miss anything here?

Nope, that seems to cover it.

The refitting of the head I think needs
to be done with the manual lever pushed against the spring effort
of the head assembly. Anyone confirm this please?

Basically just rotate the whole body of the head until it drops into
place on the spindle, then straighten it to the position where you can
refit the screws to fix it to the wet bit of the valve.

Finally, can I turn the heating on with the head removed and call
for heat to test the operation of the motor?

Yup, as long as the micro-switch at the end of travel closes the system
will see it as "working" even if its not mechanically connected to the
valve.

(obviously better to do this with the valve manually left in the "open"
position so you are not running the pump against a closed valve)

The Honeywell V4043 valves in my system, like Triggers Broom, have
each had several new microswitches and serveral replacement motors
over the 40 years that the've been installed, but the "wet" parts have
never given a moments trouble. I put it down to the Supersoft
Manchester water.


--

Graham.
%Profound_observation%

On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 19:57:55 +0100 (GMT+01:00), TheChief
wrote:

From what I've googled so far, it looks like I just have to:
Undo one screw and slide off cover
Undo two diagonally opposite screws and lift off head
Free off valve with pliers on valve spindle
Refit head
Test
Did I miss anything here?

Before starting make sure you have the valve which allows you to
replace the head without draining the system down. The Honeywell
design changed in 1987 and valves from before then do not have
replaceable heads. (They do however look similar to the post 1987
ones so the first you may realise you have a problem is when you undo
a screw and water comes out where it shouldn't!).

Peter Parry Wrote in message:
On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 19:57:55 +0100 (GMT+01:00), TheChief
wrote:

From what I've googled so far, it looks like I just have to:
Undo one screw and slide off cover
Undo two diagonally opposite screws and lift off head
Free off valve with pliers on valve spindle
Refit head
Test
Did I miss anything here?

Before starting make sure you have the valve which allows you to
replace the head without draining the system down. The Honeywell
design changed in 1987 and valves from before then do not have
replaceable heads. (They do however look similar to the post 1987
ones so the first you may realise you have a problem is when you undo
a screw and water comes out where it shouldn't!).



Thanks Peter
Yes I was alert to that. From what I have read these have four
securing screws, rather than two diagonally opposite.
Phil
--


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In message , TheChief
writes

Yes I was alert to that. From what I have read these have four
securing screws, rather than two diagonally opposite.

Phil, by way of encouragement, I had the same problem a year or so ago
and, with guidance here, I managed to free off a stuck valve which has
worked ever since.

--
Graeme