I'm trying to get a new bathroom fitted and I'm having difficulty
knowing what the options are for the basin.

There's a 150cm gap on the long wall of the bathroom between the short
wall and the end of the bath. I'd like to fill this with floor mounted
cabinets and put the sink (recessed or semi-recessed) in a work top. The
thing is complicated by the fact that there's a window 100cm along
requiring a 10-15cm step down and then a 50cm continuation to the bath.

The depth of the cabinet is flexible but the height is obviously
determined by the sink height.

Can I use kitchen cabinet carcases and bathroom work top? Is there a
better way? Ready made vanities don't seem to fit the bill.

Another Dave
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On 14/09/2017 14:53, Another Dave wrote:
I'm trying to get a new bathroom fitted and I'm having difficulty
knowing what the options are for the basin.

There's a 150cm gap on the long wall of the bathroom between the short
wall and the end of the bath. I'd like to fill this with floor mounted
cabinets and put the sink (recessed or semi-recessed) in a work top. The
thing is complicated by the fact that there's a window 100cm along
requiring a 10-15cm step down and then a 50cm continuation to the bath.

The depth of the cabinet is flexible but the height is obviously
determined by the sink height.

Can I use kitchen cabinet carcases and bathroom work top? Is there a
better way? Ready made vanities don't seem to fit the bill.

Another Dave

Don't see why not, if the dimensions are suitable, with the usual
obvious provisos to try to avoid water getting to the edges.

But if not, when I started doing DIY fixes to this sort of problem
*many* years ago, I usually made up structural frames from batten,
typically 1 x 1.5 or 2 x 1 depending on the loads, finally faced
externally with hardboard or plywood according to the application.

These days I have found it is much easier to make up a box-like
structure from 18 mm ply, with all the main elements perpendicular,
vertical, and horizontal, but scribed and cut to fit irregular walls,
with cutouts for waste pipes, etc. Cut parts straight to size with a
sawboard, jointed with biscuits (screwed and glued too). I'll usually
try to make it so that it can come out in one piece, in case you have to
lift floorboards or get at the wall behind for some reason.

Make the sink easily removable, with accessible service valves and waste
couplings. The weight will keep it in place, with just a silicone bead
to the wall which you can cut easily if it has to come out.

Once you get the hang of sawboards and biscuit cutters, you can make
such structures surprisingly quickly and accurately.

18 mm might look heavy, you can sometimes get away with 12 mm (or less),
but 18 mm is easier to work with. Although purists might object, you can
join parts at right angles using relatively thin screws into the edges
of 18 mm plywood. (Drill clearance holes in the outer part and pilot
holes into the edge). With glue plus biscuits they will be quite strong.

No harm finishing with proper worktop. You might be able to finish with
"off the shelf" doors depending on the dimensions, but it doesn't take
too long to make custom ones depending on the pattern you want.

newshound Wrote in message:
On 14/09/2017 14:53, Another Dave wrote:
I'm trying to get a new bathroom fitted and I'm having difficulty
knowing what the options are for the basin.

There's a 150cm gap on the long wall of the bathroom between the short
wall and the end of the bath. I'd like to fill this with floor mounted
cabinets and put the sink (recessed or semi-recessed) in a work top. The
thing is complicated by the fact that there's a window 100cm along
requiring a 10-15cm step down and then a 50cm continuation to the bath.

The depth of the cabinet is flexible but the height is obviously
determined by the sink height.

Can I use kitchen cabinet carcases and bathroom work top? Is there a
better way? Ready made vanities don't seem to fit the bill.

Another Dave

Don't see why not, if the dimensions are suitable, with the usual
obvious provisos to try to avoid water getting to the edges.

But if not, when I started doing DIY fixes to this sort of problem
*many* years ago, I usually made up structural frames from batten,
typically 1 x 1.5 or 2 x 1 depending on the loads, finally faced
externally with hardboard or plywood according to the application.

These days I have found it is much easier to make up a box-like
structure from 18 mm ply, with all the main elements perpendicular,
vertical, and horizontal, but scribed and cut to fit irregular walls,
with cutouts for waste pipes, etc. Cut parts straight to size with a
sawboard, jointed with biscuits (screwed and glued too). I'll usually
try to make it so that it can come out in one piece, in case you have to
lift floorboards or get at the wall behind for some reason.

Make the sink easily removable, with accessible service valves and waste
couplings. The weight will keep it in place, with just a silicone bead
to the wall which you can cut easily if it has to come out.

Once you get the hang of sawboards and biscuit cutters, you can make
such structures surprisingly quickly and accurately.

18 mm might look heavy, you can sometimes get away with 12 mm (or less),
but 18 mm is easier to work with. Although purists might object, you can
join parts at right angles using relatively thin screws into the edges
of 18 mm plywood. (Drill clearance holes in the outer part and pilot
holes into the edge). With glue plus biscuits they will be quite strong.

No harm finishing with proper worktop. You might be able to finish with
"off the shelf" doors depending on the dimensions, but it doesn't take
too long to make custom ones depending on the pattern you want.




Just one point I would add here.
If you were going to use worktop, make sure the "cover" wraps
underneath and there is a drip groove.

I have some fitted vanity units in an en suite. The worktop
covering does not wrap under the front nose of the worktop, so
water hits chipboard as soon as it tracks under the nose. The
worktop cover is blowing away from the nose and the chipboard
swelling as a result.

Phil
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On 14/09/17 16:00, newshound wrote:

Don't see why not, if the dimensions are suitable, with the usual
obvious provisos to try to avoid water getting to the edges.


Thanks for all the advice. I'll take note of TheChief's comment also.

The reason I mentioned kitchen cabinets is that we fancy the very high
gloss white finish that some kitchens come in. Neither end of the
cabinet will be visible and I intend to use an insert of worktop to
cover the vertical drop so it seems feasible to adapt a couple of cabinets.

The bath end cabinet will probably be used as dirty linen basket so it
may need to open at the top rather than the front.

Another Dave

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