My kitchen floor is tiled three-quarters of the way across. The last
quarter was finished with carpet as the so-called "dining area".
Adjacent to the kitchen is a utility room with washing machine,
downstairs lavatory etc. Its floor is also tiled.

I would really like to replace the carpeted area with tiles that match
the other floors, but I can't be sure there isn't a slight incline
from one of the floors to the other.

One way I can think of measuring how even the floors are would be with
two wood blocks, a very long straightedge and a spirit level. But I
don't have anything that long (at least 2.5m) that is dead straight.

Another idea is to somehow make use of the laser distance meter I
have. Supposing I placed the meter on one tiled floor and a marked
piece of card on the other. I could see where the laser beam hit the
card, then swap the two over and repeat.

Any ideas? Maybe a taut length of string could be used somehow?

I first thought of just pointing the laser meter and the ceiling from
floor level, but the ceilings in kitchen and utility room are not
exactly at the same height because the utility room is an extension to
the garage which is a separate structure to the main house. (Separate,
but "lean-to".)

MM

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MM wrote:

I can't be sure there isn't a slight incline
from one of the floors to the other.

You'd probably not notice it even if there was.

measuring how even the floors are

Get some clear piping and not quite fill with water (add food-colouring
if necessary to make it easier to see)

place two equal height items (bricks? chairs?) on the two floors and
line up the pipe to see if the level is the same ...

On 03/09/2017 16:11, Andy Burns wrote:
MM wrote:

I can't be sure there isn't a slight incline
from one of the floors to the other.

You'd probably not notice it even if there was.

measuring how even the floors are

Get some clear piping and not quite fill with water (add food-colouring
if necessary to makeÂ* it easier to see)

place two equal height items (bricks? chairs?) on the two floors and
line up the pipe to see if the level is the same ...

Laser level is your friend here. I know the pipe is the age-old
traditional method but effects of surface tension and greasy stuff in
the pipe bore makes this slightly less effective than you might expect.

Not a tool I use very often, but brilliant in the right application.

newshound wrote:

Laser level is your friend here.

OK when you've got one, but ss's job hardly sounds enough reason to buy
one ...

Andy Burns wrote:

ss's job

oh, sorry MM's job ...

On 03/09/2017 16:35, newshound wrote:


Laser level is your friend here. I know the pipe is the age-old
traditional method but effects of surface tension and greasy stuff in
the pipe bore makes this slightly less effective than you might expect.

Add detergent to the water?



--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 03/09/17 16:11, Andy Burns wrote:
MM wrote:

I can't be sure there isn't a slight incline
from one of the floors to the other.

You'd probably not notice it even if there was.

measuring how even the floors are

Get some clear piping and not quite fill with water (add food-colouring
if necessary to make it easier to see)

place two equal height items (bricks? chairs?) on the two floors and
line up the pipe to see if the level is the same ...

Yes I remember using what we called a water line to mark 2 or more equal
heights on a wall at about 4 meters above ground level in a large open
building.

"MM" wrote in message ...

My kitchen floor is tiled three-quarters of the way across. The last
quarter was finished with carpet as the so-called "dining area".
Adjacent to the kitchen is a utility room with washing machine,
downstairs lavatory etc. Its floor is also tiled.

I would really like to replace the carpeted area with tiles that match
the other floors, but I can't be sure there isn't a slight incline
from one of the floors to the other.

One way I can think of measuring how even the floors are would be with
two wood blocks, a very long straightedge and a spirit level. But I
don't have anything that long (at least 2.5m) that is dead straight.

Another idea is to somehow make use of the laser distance meter I
have. Supposing I placed the meter on one tiled floor and a marked
piece of card on the other. I could see where the laser beam hit the
card, then swap the two over and repeat.

Any ideas? Maybe a taut length of string could be used somehow?

I first thought of just pointing the laser meter and the ceiling from
floor level, but the ceilings in kitchen and utility room are not
exactly at the same height because the utility room is an extension to
the garage which is a separate structure to the main house. (Separate,
but "lean-to".)

MM

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Rotating laser level on tripod with staff

http://www.laser-level.co.uk/product...cessories.html

My (pretty old now) one will tell levels within 1 mm over short (sub 50
metre) distances on the fine range

Andrew

On 03/09/17 16:04, MM wrote:
My kitchen floor is tiled three-quarters of the way across. The last
quarter was finished with carpet as the so-called "dining area".
Adjacent to the kitchen is a utility room with washing machine,
downstairs lavatory etc. Its floor is also tiled.

If it's that hard to measure, you won't see it in the finished result.

I have 1cm drop over about 1m from kitchen to lobby, all done in the
same tiles and it's invisible.

The main thing is that you don't have localised discrepancies and a 6'
level will be good enough to gauge that.

"MM" wrote in message
...

Any ideas? Maybe a taut length of string could be used somehow?


Assuming you use 4pint milk containers, have a suitable
sacrificial length of garden hose and a suitable size drill bit.

Drill holes in the sides of the milk containers such that the hose
is a tight fit. A bit of leakage won't affect the result in any
case.

Fit the hose and place the containers on the two surfaces.

Start filling one of the containers with water until the
container at the other end is three quarters full.

Very carefully mark the level on each of the containers with a
permanent marker.

Empty the containers into a bucket and then measure the
difference in the height of the marks on the two containers.


michael adams

....

"michael adams" wrote in message
o.uk...

"MM" wrote in message
...

Any ideas? Maybe a taut length of string could be used somehow?


Assuming you use 4pint milk containers, have a suitable
sacrificial length of garden hose and a suitable size drill bit.

Drill holes in the sides of the milk containers such that the hose
is a tight fit. A bit of leakage won't affect the result in any
case.

Fit the hose and place the containers on the two surfaces.

Start filling one of the containers with water until the
container at the other end is three quarters full.

Very carefully mark the level on each of the containers with a
permanent marker.

Empty the containers into a bucket and then measure the
difference in the height of the marks on the two containers.


michael adams

...

Just remembered - the mark is first made on the first container
which is filled it up to that mark - this then reduces the impact
of any leakage assuming a perfect fit can't be achieved; as the
second mark can be made straightway. The holes in the containers
are in the sides 1/4 the way up and the hose rests on the floor.

On Sun, 3 Sep 2017 21:15:03 +0100, "michael adams"
wrote:


"michael adams" wrote in message
news:8cCdndXMM4vj_THEnZ2dnUU78a_NnZ2d@brightview. co.uk...

"MM" wrote in message
...

Any ideas? Maybe a taut length of string could be used somehow?


Assuming you use 4pint milk containers, have a suitable
sacrificial length of garden hose and a suitable size drill bit.

Drill holes in the sides of the milk containers such that the hose
is a tight fit. A bit of leakage won't affect the result in any
case.

Fit the hose and place the containers on the two surfaces.

Start filling one of the containers with water until the
container at the other end is three quarters full.

Very carefully mark the level on each of the containers with a
permanent marker.

Empty the containers into a bucket and then measure the
difference in the height of the marks on the two containers.


michael adams

...

Just remembered - the mark is first made on the first container
which is filled it up to that mark - this then reduces the impact
of any leakage assuming a perfect fit can't be achieved; as the
second mark can be made straightway. The holes in the containers
are in the sides 1/4 the way up and the hose rests on the floor.

This sounds like the cheapest solution, although I like the idea of
the laser levels! They do seem handy for a lot of jobs, especially
picture hanging.

I only buy 1 pint milk containers, but I'd be prepared to buy 2 4-pint
ones over two weeks! I don't usually buy larger than 1 pint, because I
reckon the milk stays fresher for longer in unopened containers.)

Thanks to all for your suggestions.

MM

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http://www.avg.com

On Sun, 3 Sep 2017 21:15:03 +0100, "michael adams"
wrote:


"michael adams" wrote in message
news:8cCdndXMM4vj_THEnZ2dnUU78a_NnZ2d@brightview. co.uk...

"MM" wrote in message
...

Any ideas? Maybe a taut length of string could be used somehow?


Assuming you use 4pint milk containers, have a suitable
sacrificial length of garden hose and a suitable size drill bit.

Drill holes in the sides of the milk containers such that the hose
is a tight fit. A bit of leakage won't affect the result in any
case.

Fit the hose and place the containers on the two surfaces.

Start filling one of the containers with water until the
container at the other end is three quarters full.

Very carefully mark the level on each of the containers with a
permanent marker.

Empty the containers into a bucket and then measure the
difference in the height of the marks on the two containers.


michael adams

...

Just remembered - the mark is first made on the first container
which is filled it up to that mark - this then reduces the impact
of any leakage assuming a perfect fit can't be achieved; as the
second mark can be made straightway. The holes in the containers
are in the sides 1/4 the way up and the hose rests on the floor.

This sounds like the cheapest solution, although I like the idea of
the laser levels! They do seem handy for a lot of jobs, especially
picture hanging.

I only buy 1 pint milk containers, but I'd be prepared to buy 2 4-pint
ones over two weeks! I don't usually buy larger than 1 pint, because I
reckon the milk stays fresher for longer in unopened containers.)

Thanks to all for your suggestions.

MM

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com

"MM" wrote in message
...


I only buy 1 pint milk containers, but I'd be prepared to buy 2 4-pint
ones over two weeks! I don't usually buy larger than 1 pint, because I
reckon the milk stays fresher for longer in unopened containers.)

4pt milk containers have a "waxy" finish. This may be a component in the
plastic to enable easy mould release. This can make them difficult to
write on or mark with any degree of precision unless an area is first
cleaned with white spirit. Ideally vertical address labels
can be stuck on the containers which can be marked with something
like an Edding Fineliner.
Or to save this faffing around just leave the original labels
on the containers and mark on the edge of the labels. As the labels
only go half way up this means the levels will need to be lower than
half way.
Water is handy compared with a laser when there's no direct line of
sight although this can be got around with a mirror. As the beam has
minimal width the angle isn't crucial.
Theres no actual need to cut the hose which could lie coiled on the
floor ; it would simply make filling the whole thing more time
consuming.


michael adams

....