On 04/06/17 11:51, jim wrote:

I want to make some deep oak window boards from say 20mm
(finished) oak boards. They need jointing along their lengths to
make up sufficient depth.

Width 3ft, depth 12.5 inches. 2 of.

What's the most appropriate jointing method? I've got a reasonable
selection of hand held power tools but nothing extravagant :-)


I'd say that you could use a dowel drill jig, dowels and plenty of PVA
all clamped up for at least 24 hours.

That's probably the least tooling you would need to buy..

If you have a router & table, T&G tools or a biscuit tool would enable
those techniques. The best IMHO is T&G but its also the most expensive
tooling unless you have the kit, or a radial saw bench.






TIA



--
"Socialist governments traditionally do make a financial mess. They
always run out of other people's money. It's quite a characteristic of them"

Margaret Thatcher

On 04/06/17 11:51, jim wrote:

I want to make some deep oak window boards from say 20mm
(finished) oak boards. They need jointing along their lengths to
make up sufficient depth.

Width 3ft, depth 12.5 inches. 2 of.

What's the most appropriate jointing method? I've got a reasonable
selection of hand held power tools but nothing extravagant :-)

There are a lot of ways to do this. Here is one:

A router running along a very straight straight-edge will give you a
good square and true edge to join.

1" or 25mm sawn timber should give you 22mm planed boards. Without doing
your googling for you that is probs enough thickness for connector bolts
of some kind let into the underside that you can tighten with allen keys
and spanners to bring the glued surfaces tightly together. If you can't
let them in deep enough you can always remoe them after the glue has
hardened. Even a pocket screw jig will work.

Use cascamite, which is fully waterproof. PVA doesn't harden fully and
allows creeping, plus cascamite will bridge gaps better. Polyeurethane
too fast for this and a gap bridged with foam is not strong.

TW

I want to make some deep oak window boards from say 20mm
(finished) oak boards. They need jointing along their lengths to
make up sufficient depth.

Width 3ft, depth 12.5 inches. 2 of.

What's the most appropriate jointing method? I've got a reasonable
selection of hand held power tools but nothing extravagant :-)


TIA
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

TimW wrote:
On 04/06/17 11:51, jim wrote:

I want to make some deep oak window boards from say 20mm
(finished) oak boards. They need jointing along their lengths to
make up sufficient depth.

Width 3ft, depth 12.5 inches. 2 of.

What's the most appropriate jointing method? I've got a reasonable
selection of hand held power tools but nothing extravagant :-)

There are a lot of ways to do this. Here is one:

A router running along a very straight straight-edge will give you a
good square and true edge to join.

1" or 25mm sawn timber should give you 22mm planed boards. Without doing
your googling for you that is probs enough thickness for connector bolts
of some kind let into the underside that you can tighten with allen keys
and spanners to bring the glued surfaces tightly together. If you can't
let them in deep enough you can always remoe them after the glue has
hardened. Even a pocket screw jig will work.

Use cascamite, which is fully waterproof. PVA doesn't harden fully and
allows creeping, plus cascamite will bridge gaps better. Polyeurethane
too fast for this and a gap bridged with foam is not strong.

TW
Joining long boards really depends on the kit you have got.
A few guiding principles.
Do make sure the board moisture content is similar to the final
environment by storing the timber indoors up until final planing and gluing.
Do make sure there is no gap along the join with the boards at rest.
Closing a gap with clamping pressure will end in tears later on.

Whatever finish you are going to put on the top surface. Make sure you
seal the underneath with the same stuff. This will minimise cupping of
the composite board.

Use a similar number of clamps on top of the board as underneath placed
alternately to balance out the forces during the glue up.
Along 3 foot you will probably need 6 clamps from side to side.

Do a dry fit putting on all the clamps first to check for alignment
problems. When removing the clamps set them aside at the correct opening.
There are enough sources of possible **** ups any way and these only get
worse when the glue is there to lubricate the join

Wipe off every trace of excess glue before it dries as leaving to remove
later will seal some pores in the wood and these will show through the
finish when you start to apply it. Wipe over with whitespirit to check
if this is going to happen.

Put tape over any steel parts of the clamp that might touch the oak to
prevent black marks appearing due to the tannin in the oak.

You can bleach out any "accidents" with oxalic acid.

If you end up using a sander to even up the visible surface once the
joint is level work up through the grits ensuring swirl marks are
removes at each grit. Whitespirit again will help see these.
Otherwise swirl marks will leap out at you when staining or varnishing.


All this comes from bitter experience from a hobby woodworker.

If you are anywhere near Southampton and want some help in a well
equipped work shop, correct the email address above and get in touch.

Good luck!

Bob Minchin Wrote in message:
TimW wrote:
On 04/06/17 11:51, jim wrote:

I want to make some deep oak window boards from say 20mm
(finished) oak boards. They need jointing along their lengths to
make up sufficient depth.

Width 3ft, depth 12.5 inches. 2 of.

What's the most appropriate jointing method? I've got a reasonable
selection of hand held power tools but nothing extravagant :-)

There are a lot of ways to do this. Here is one:

A router running along a very straight straight-edge will give you a
good square and true edge to join.

1" or 25mm sawn timber should give you 22mm planed boards. Without doing
your googling for you that is probs enough thickness for connector bolts
of some kind let into the underside that you can tighten with allen keys
and spanners to bring the glued surfaces tightly together. If you can't
let them in deep enough you can always remoe them after the glue has
hardened. Even a pocket screw jig will work.

Use cascamite, which is fully waterproof. PVA doesn't harden fully and
allows creeping, plus cascamite will bridge gaps better. Polyeurethane
too fast for this and a gap bridged with foam is not strong.

TW
Joining long boards really depends on the kit you have got.
A few guiding principles.
Do make sure the board moisture content is similar to the final
environment by storing the timber indoors up until final planing and gluing.
Do make sure there is no gap along the join with the boards at rest.
Closing a gap with clamping pressure will end in tears later on.

Whatever finish you are going to put on the top surface. Make sure you
seal the underneath with the same stuff. This will minimise cupping of
the composite board.

Use a similar number of clamps on top of the board as underneath placed
alternately to balance out the forces during the glue up.
Along 3 foot you will probably need 6 clamps from side to side.

Do a dry fit putting on all the clamps first to check for alignment
problems. When removing the clamps set them aside at the correct opening.
There are enough sources of possible **** ups any way and these only get
worse when the glue is there to lubricate the join

Wipe off every trace of excess glue before it dries as leaving to remove
later will seal some pores in the wood and these will show through the
finish when you start to apply it. Wipe over with whitespirit to check
if this is going to happen.

Put tape over any steel parts of the clamp that might touch the oak to
prevent black marks appearing due to the tannin in the oak.

You can bleach out any "accidents" with oxalic acid.

If you end up using a sander to even up the visible surface once the
joint is level work up through the grits ensuring swirl marks are
removes at each grit. Whitespirit again will help see these.
Otherwise swirl marks will leap out at you when staining or varnishing.


All this comes from bitter experience from a hobby woodworker.

If you are anywhere near Southampton and want some help in a well
equipped work shop, correct the email address above and get in touch.

Good luck!


Thanks for the tips Bob, nowhere near you but thanks for the kind
offer:-)
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 04/06/2017 14:06, Bob Minchin wrote:
TimW wrote:
On 04/06/17 11:51, jim wrote:

I want to make some deep oak window boards from say 20mm
(finished) oak boards. They need jointing along their lengths to
make up sufficient depth.

Width 3ft, depth 12.5 inches. 2 of.

What's the most appropriate jointing method? I've got a reasonable
selection of hand held power tools but nothing extravagant :-)

There are a lot of ways to do this. Here is one:

A router running along a very straight straight-edge will give you a
good square and true edge to join.

1" or 25mm sawn timber should give you 22mm planed boards. Without doing
your googling for you that is probs enough thickness for connector bolts
of some kind let into the underside that you can tighten with allen keys
and spanners to bring the glued surfaces tightly together. If you can't
let them in deep enough you can always remoe them after the glue has
hardened. Even a pocket screw jig will work.

Use cascamite, which is fully waterproof. PVA doesn't harden fully and
allows creeping, plus cascamite will bridge gaps better. Polyeurethane
too fast for this and a gap bridged with foam is not strong.

TW
Joining long boards really depends on the kit you have got.
A few guiding principles.
Do make sure the board moisture content is similar to the final
environment by storing the timber indoors up until final planing and
gluing.
Do make sure there is no gap along the join with the boards at rest.
Closing a gap with clamping pressure will end in tears later on.

Whatever finish you are going to put on the top surface. Make sure you
seal the underneath with the same stuff. This will minimise cupping of
the composite board.

Use a similar number of clamps on top of the board as underneath placed
alternately to balance out the forces during the glue up.
Along 3 foot you will probably need 6 clamps from side to side.

Do a dry fit putting on all the clamps first to check for alignment
problems. When removing the clamps set them aside at the correct opening.
There are enough sources of possible **** ups any way and these only get
worse when the glue is there to lubricate the join

Wipe off every trace of excess glue before it dries as leaving to remove
later will seal some pores in the wood and these will show through the
finish when you start to apply it. Wipe over with whitespirit to check
if this is going to happen.

Put tape over any steel parts of the clamp that might touch the oak to
prevent black marks appearing due to the tannin in the oak.

You can bleach out any "accidents" with oxalic acid.

If you end up using a sander to even up the visible surface once the
joint is level work up through the grits ensuring swirl marks are
removes at each grit. Whitespirit again will help see these.
Otherwise swirl marks will leap out at you when staining or varnishing.


All this comes from bitter experience from a hobby woodworker.

+1

Yup, what he said ;-)

A few other random thoughts...

Basically once you have got both edges flat straight, you can do this
with just glue - it will be plenty strong enough - however its harder to
align stuff without some form of mechanical registration.

One trick is to add a few grains of salt to your glue surface before
clamping - it stops the edges sliding about as much.

Also clamping cauls are good - basically just some straight bits of wood
like a 2x1, (which if you want to get posh you can plane such that they
are a bit thicker in the middle), then you place several pairs of these
across your boards when clamping up, and then clamp these to the top and
bottom of your board from both edges. They will apply force that will
keep the boards you are clamping inline. The slight curve on them will
help concentrate this toward the centre of the boards near the joint.
Cover them with plastic packing tape to make them glue resistant (you
really don' want to glue a caul to your boards!)

One glue up with cauls:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...ripGlueUp1.jpg

Here is an example where I just needed one caul and a wedge to
"encourage" one end of a joint to line up the way I wanted:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...Main_table_top


If you have a router, then running a grove down both edges of your join
with a straight fluted but will let you drop in a slip tenon; another
way of helping alignment.

Biscuit jointers are good for this (and unlike dowels only need precise
alignment in one axis, which makes assembly a bit easier. However I
would not buy one for a one off joint.

If you have a table saw (or a again with a router) you could also rebate
your jointed edge leaving it "L" shaped. Do the same to the other edge
(but with the L the other way up), and you now have a full length half
lap joint that will be strong and easy to joint.



--
Cheers,

John.

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On 04/06/2017 12:47, TimW wrote:
On 04/06/17 11:51, jim wrote:

I want to make some deep oak window boards from say 20mm
(finished) oak boards. They need jointing along their lengths to
make up sufficient depth.

Width 3ft, depth 12.5 inches. 2 of.


1" or 25mm sawn timber should give you 22mm planed boards. Without doing
your googling for you that is probs enough thickness for connector bolts
of some kind let into the underside that you can tighten with allen keys
and spanners to bring the glued surfaces tightly together. If you can't
let them in deep enough you can always remoe them after the glue has
hardened. Even a pocket screw jig will work.

You could also do it with a pocket hole jig and some screws.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 04/06/2017 21:43, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2017 12:47, TimW wrote:
On 04/06/17 11:51, jim wrote:

I want to make some deep oak window boards from say 20mm
(finished) oak boards. They need jointing along their lengths to
make up sufficient depth.

Width 3ft, depth 12.5 inches. 2 of.


1" or 25mm sawn timber should give you 22mm planed boards. Without doing
your googling for you that is probs enough thickness for connector bolts
of some kind let into the underside that you can tighten with allen keys
and spanners to bring the glued surfaces tightly together. If you can't
let them in deep enough you can always remoe them after the glue has
hardened. Even a pocket screw jig will work.

You could also do it with a pocket hole jig and some screws.



Maybe you'd be better joining engineered flooring, which you know has a
very low moisture content. It can take months for hardwoods to
"acclimatise" if they're just lying around in a centrally heated
environment. The advantages with flooring are that it's pretty much the
right dimensions, flat, and all the hard work has been done for you.

On 06/06/17 09:53, Stuart Noble wrote:
On 04/06/2017 21:43, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/06/2017 12:47, TimW wrote:
On 04/06/17 11:51, jim wrote:

I want to make some deep oak window boards from say 20mm
(finished) oak boards. They need jointing along their lengths to
make up sufficient depth.

Width 3ft, depth 12.5 inches. 2 of.


1" or 25mm sawn timber should give you 22mm planed boards. Without doing
your googling for you that is probs enough thickness for connector bolts
of some kind let into the underside that you can tighten with allen keys
and spanners to bring the glued surfaces tightly together. If you can't
let them in deep enough you can always remoe them after the glue has
hardened. Even a pocket screw jig will work.

You could also do it with a pocket hole jig and some screws.



Maybe you'd be better joining engineered flooring, which you know has a
very low moisture content. It can take months for hardwoods to
"acclimatise" if they're just lying around in a centrally heated
environment. The advantages with flooring are that it's pretty much the
right dimensions, flat, and all the hard work has been done for you.


Its a year per inch thickness roughly for green timber So only a few
weeks for sub inch kiln dried material. Someone I knew had a bureau
whose lid warped every winter, and only straightened up in the summer.

People will note that doors wedge and free over the seasonal cycle, with
summer being the bad time for expansion, due to the higher internal humidity

The reverse is true outside, where a hot spell in summer may shrink and
crack.



--
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community, compassion, investment, security, housing...."
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"Jeremy Corbyn?"