Our new caravan has three gas rings and one solid electric hot plate.

Great idea because you can use the bundled electricity you get with the
pitch for cooking.

Dumb implementation because the electric hot plate is below the level of
the pan supports so you have to drop the pan into a 20 cms * 24 cms space
which effectively means a 20 cms diameter pan.

Normal hobs you can use larger pans and they can overlap partly with the
rest of the hob.

Useful thing; something stable and heat conducting which would fit over
the solid electric hot plate and stand level with the pan support over the
gas hobs, allowing the use of larger pans.

It seems an obvious thing; I can't find one so either they don't make them
or I am using the wrong search terms.

One reason for the low slung electric hot plate may well be to keep it
away from the glass fold down lid. So a degree of risk when removing this
proposed device to fold everything away.

Anyway, ringing any bells?

Cheers



Dave R


--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 13/03/2017 15:22, David wrote:

Useful thing; something stable and heat conducting which would fit over
the solid electric hot plate and stand level with the pan support over the
gas hobs, allowing the use of larger pans.


I wondered if one of these would fit

https://www.johnlewis.com/tefal-ih20...n-hob/p592363?


--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On Monday, 13 March 2017 15:22:12 UTC, David WE Roberts (Google) wrote:
Dumb implementation because the electric hot plate is below the level of
the pan supports so you have to drop the pan into a 20 cms * 24 cms space
which effectively means a 20 cms diameter pan.

I think anything solid enough to conduct heat effectively (ie a solid lump of metal) would also have unfeasibly high thermal mass and slow response.

Could you raise the electric hot plate by removing it from the hob unit and sandwiching a band of stainless steel round the perimeter between the hotplate and the hob unit, I think most electric hotplates fix with a central screw to a spider?

Or can you use a flat-bottomed wok?

Owain

On Mon, 13 Mar 2017 17:05:33 +0000, Robin wrote:

On 13/03/2017 15:22, David wrote:

Useful thing; something stable and heat conducting which would fit over
the solid electric hot plate and stand level with the pan support over
the gas hobs, allowing the use of larger pans.


I wondered if one of these would fit

https://www.johnlewis.com/tefal-ih20...ble-induction-
hob/p592363?

Already have the Lidl one.
This would work with the glass lid folded down, and take a larger pan, but
I would really like to be able to use the electric ring and then possibly
a gas one as well.

It seems a design flaw in the hob although as already stated it may be
regarded as an essential safety feature to avoid damaging the glass by
folding it down with the hot plate still hot.


Cheers


Dave R


--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Mon, 13 Mar 2017 10:27:50 -0700, spuorgelgoog wrote:

On Monday, 13 March 2017 15:22:12 UTC, David WE Roberts (Google) wrote:
Dumb implementation because the electric hot plate is below the level
of the pan supports so you have to drop the pan into a 20 cms * 24 cms
space which effectively means a 20 cms diameter pan.

I think anything solid enough to conduct heat effectively (ie a solid
lump of metal) would also have unfeasibly high thermal mass and slow
response.

Could you raise the electric hot plate by removing it from the hob unit
and sandwiching a band of stainless steel round the perimeter between
the hotplate and the hob unit, I think most electric hotplates fix with
a central screw to a spider?

Or can you use a flat-bottomed wok?

Owain

I wonder if aluminium which is light but a good conductor of heat would do?
Or copper, for that matter.

Electric hot plate is in one corner of the hob so a kitchen unit and the
glass cover both get in the way so a wok probably wouldn't fit.

It is a relatively low power hot plate anyway (total power to caravans can
be quite low, often 10 Amps or 16 Amps) so I assume they don't want a red
hot 3 kW hot plate taking the circuit breaker out.

Lots of other electrical stuff as standard including wet heating and a
microwave and fridge.

Cheers



Dave R


--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

David wrote:
Our new caravan has three gas rings and one solid electric hot plate.

Great idea because you can use the bundled electricity you get with the
pitch for cooking.

Dumb implementation because the electric hot plate is below the level of
the pan supports so you have to drop the pan into a 20 cms * 24 cms space
which effectively means a 20 cms diameter pan.

Normal hobs you can use larger pans and they can overlap partly with the
rest of the hob.

Useful thing; something stable and heat conducting which would fit over
the solid electric hot plate and stand level with the pan support over the
gas hobs, allowing the use of larger pans.

It seems an obvious thing; I can't find one so either they don't make them
or I am using the wrong search terms.

One reason for the low slung electric hot plate may well be to keep it
away from the glass fold down lid. So a degree of risk when removing this
proposed device to fold everything away.

Anyway, ringing any bells?


How thick would it need to be? Maybe you could get a local engineering firm
to machine up a simple aluminium "puck" that you could lay on the hot plate
before use?

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

Tim+ wrote:
David wrote:
Our new caravan has three gas rings and one solid electric hot plate.

Great idea because you can use the bundled electricity you get with the
pitch for cooking.

Dumb implementation because the electric hot plate is below the level of
the pan supports so you have to drop the pan into a 20 cms * 24 cms space
which effectively means a 20 cms diameter pan.

Normal hobs you can use larger pans and they can overlap partly with the
rest of the hob.

Useful thing; something stable and heat conducting which would fit over
the solid electric hot plate and stand level with the pan support over the
gas hobs, allowing the use of larger pans.

It seems an obvious thing; I can't find one so either they don't make them
or I am using the wrong search terms.

One reason for the low slung electric hot plate may well be to keep it
away from the glass fold down lid. So a degree of risk when removing this
proposed device to fold everything away.

Anyway, ringing any bells?


How thick would it need to be? Maybe you could get a local engineering firm
to machine up a simple aluminium "puck" that you could lay on the hot plate
before use?

Tim


Something like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-...-/251991272691

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

David wrote:
On Mon, 13 Mar 2017 10:27:50 -0700, spuorgelgoog wrote:

On Monday, 13 March 2017 15:22:12 UTC, David WE Roberts (Google) wrote:
Dumb implementation because the electric hot plate is below the level
of the pan supports so you have to drop the pan into a 20 cms * 24 cms
space which effectively means a 20 cms diameter pan.

I think anything solid enough to conduct heat effectively (ie a solid
lump of metal) would also have unfeasibly high thermal mass and slow
response.

Could you raise the electric hot plate by removing it from the hob unit
and sandwiching a band of stainless steel round the perimeter between
the hotplate and the hob unit, I think most electric hotplates fix with
a central screw to a spider?

Or can you use a flat-bottomed wok?

Owain

I wonder if aluminium which is light but a good conductor of heat would do?
Or copper, for that matter.

Electric hot plate is in one corner of the hob so a kitchen unit and the
glass cover both get in the way so a wok probably wouldn't fit.

It is a relatively low power hot plate anyway (total power to caravans can
be quite low, often 10 Amps or 16 Amps) so I assume they don't want a red
hot 3 kW hot plate taking the circuit breaker out.

3kW is around 12 amps so can be used on a 16 amp circuit with some to
spare.

--
Chris Green
·

On 13/03/2017 19:18, David wrote:

snipped

I wonder if aluminium which is light but a good conductor of heat would do?
Or copper, for that matter.

Diamond would be best.

Cheers
--
Clive

David wrote:

Lots of other electrical stuff as standard including wet heating and a
microwave and fridge.

Why is wet heating used? Doesn't it add unnecessary weight to the caravan?

On Tue, 14 Mar 2017 12:03:43 +0000, Capitol wrote:

David wrote:

Lots of other electrical stuff as standard including wet heating and a
microwave and fridge.

Why is wet heating used? Doesn't it add unnecessary weight to the
caravan?


I assume someone did some research...I didn't ask. :-)

First guess would be the same reason that heating in houses is usually
wet; there is a slow response but then you have stored heat slowly
released. With radiant or blown air it has to be on all the time or the
air cools down rapidly.

It does compare well with the blown air heating in our Motor Home and
everywhere is toasty.

I don't think you need very much water (or other fluid) to heat the
caravan so it isn't like having cast iron radiators all over the place.

What bits I can see are piping with shiny fins all round so I expect the
volume of the heating bits are like the old oil filled bar heaters - like
a drainpipe. I don't fancy taking the body work apart to investigate
because the radiators are concealed behind trim panels.

All very nifty. Like a continuous run of heating hidden behind a panel
with air flowing from floor to ceiling behind the seats and the overhead
lockers.

Cheers



Dave R

--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

David wrote:
On Tue, 14 Mar 2017 12:03:43 +0000, Capitol wrote:

David wrote:

Lots of other electrical stuff as standard including wet heating and a
microwave and fridge.

Why is wet heating used? Doesn't it add unnecessary weight to the
caravan?


I assume someone did some research...I didn't ask. :-)

First guess would be the same reason that heating in houses is usually
wet; there is a slow response but then you have stored heat slowly
released. With radiant or blown air it has to be on all the time or the
air cools down rapidly.

It does compare well with the blown air heating in our Motor Home and
everywhere is toasty.

I don't think you need very much water (or other fluid) to heat the
caravan so it isn't like having cast iron radiators all over the place.

What bits I can see are piping with shiny fins all round so I expect the
volume of the heating bits are like the old oil filled bar heaters - like
a drainpipe. I don't fancy taking the body work apart to investigate
because the radiators are concealed behind trim panels.

All very nifty. Like a continuous run of heating hidden behind a panel
with air flowing from floor to ceiling behind the seats and the overhead
lockers.

Cheers



Dave R


Interesting, thanks.