Hi all

I have a late 18th century 30 hour long case clock in need of some TLC
which might include making replacements for parts of the frame if the
holes are too elongated to accurately bush.

The worn parts are made out of brass strip about 7/8" wide and a
fraction over 1/8" thick (0.131" as close as I can measure).

I also need things like an elegant pin to hold the hands on (currently a
safety pin) as well as a replacement post to hold the brass dial on. The
broken post is currently riveted in place with a collar to provide a
secure fixing but I could probably get away with a plain brass rod with
a hammered end since the chapter ring covers the expanded end. There is
a bit of a taper on the remaining pin and the riveted end is not visible
but brass rod of about 5/32" might do. Also needed are retaining pins or
some other kind of fixing to retain the dial in position.Ordinary
domestic pins are a loose fit.

I would be grateful for any ideas about where I can the brass strip and
proper replacements for the small bits needed or the basic materials to
make the them if not available off the shelf.

On a slightly different aspect the clock (from a distant relative back
in the 1960s) came with a rough cast lead weight weighing an almighty
14lbs. That seems to me far too heavy for a clock in good condition and
may in fact explain why some of the holes in the frame are so elongated.
So how much should a suitable weight weigh?


--
Roger Chapman

I would be grateful for any ideas about where I can the brass strip and
proper replacements for the small bits needed or the basic materials to
make the them if not available off the shelf.

On a slightly different aspect the clock (from a distant relative back
in the 1960s) came with a rough cast lead weight weighing an almighty
14lbs. That seems to me far too heavy for a clock in good condition and
may in fact explain why some of the holes in the frame are so elongated.
So how much should a suitable weight weigh?


Various bits are sometimes available on ebay, if not just google for them.
The weight is probably correct I have a couple of longcase type clocks
(stored at the moment) and from memory I reckon they are a similar weight.

Roger Chapman wrote:
Hi all

I have a late 18th century 30 hour long case clock in need of some TLC
which might include making replacements for parts of the frame if the
holes are too elongated to accurately bush.

The worn parts are made out of brass strip about 7/8" wide and a
fraction over 1/8" thick (0.131" as close as I can measure).

I also need things like an elegant pin to hold the hands on (currently a
safety pin) as well as a replacement post to hold the brass dial on. The
broken post is currently riveted in place with a collar to provide a
secure fixing but I could probably get away with a plain brass rod with
a hammered end since the chapter ring covers the expanded end. There is
a bit of a taper on the remaining pin and the riveted end is not visible
but brass rod of about 5/32" might do. Also needed are retaining pins or
some other kind of fixing to retain the dial in position.Ordinary
domestic pins are a loose fit.

I would be grateful for any ideas about where I can the brass strip and
proper replacements for the small bits needed or the basic materials to
make the them if not available off the shelf.

On a slightly different aspect the clock (from a distant relative back
in the 1960s) came with a rough cast lead weight weighing an almighty
14lbs. That seems to me far too heavy for a clock in good condition and
may in fact explain why some of the holes in the frame are so elongated.
So how much should a suitable weight weigh?


HS Walsh and Cousins are suppliers of clock parts.
Those pins will have a taper on them and possibly best measured off an
existing one rather than trying to measure a locating hole at that size.
For small amounts of raw materials such as your brass needs look at
model engineers supplies or a surprising amount of metals on ebay.
The postage is a bit of a killer for any quantity due to the weight but
sounds like you will only need a small amount.

On 07/02/2017 16:56, ss wrote:


I would be grateful for any ideas about where I can the brass strip and
proper replacements for the small bits needed or the basic materials to
make the them if not available off the shelf.

On a slightly different aspect the clock (from a distant relative back
in the 1960s) came with a rough cast lead weight weighing an almighty
14lbs. That seems to me far too heavy for a clock in good condition and
may in fact explain why some of the holes in the frame are so elongated.
So how much should a suitable weight weigh?


Various bits are sometimes available on ebay, if not just google for them.
The weight is probably correct I have a couple of longcase type clocks
(stored at the moment) and from memory I reckon they are a similar weight.

Thanks. I did start off with a Google but found useful information
limited. Part of the problem is that in most cases I don't know the
correct name for the part.

--
Roger Chapman

On 07/02/2017 17:30, Bob Minchin wrote:
Roger Chapman wrote:
Hi all

I have a late 18th century 30 hour long case clock in need of some TLC
which might include making replacements for parts of the frame if the
holes are too elongated to accurately bush.

The worn parts are made out of brass strip about 7/8" wide and a
fraction over 1/8" thick (0.131" as close as I can measure).

I also need things like an elegant pin to hold the hands on (currently a
safety pin) as well as a replacement post to hold the brass dial on. The
broken post is currently riveted in place with a collar to provide a
secure fixing but I could probably get away with a plain brass rod with
a hammered end since the chapter ring covers the expanded end. There is
a bit of a taper on the remaining pin and the riveted end is not visible
but brass rod of about 5/32" might do. Also needed are retaining pins or
some other kind of fixing to retain the dial in position.Ordinary
domestic pins are a loose fit.

I would be grateful for any ideas about where I can the brass strip and
proper replacements for the small bits needed or the basic materials to
make the them if not available off the shelf.

On a slightly different aspect the clock (from a distant relative back
in the 1960s) came with a rough cast lead weight weighing an almighty
14lbs. That seems to me far too heavy for a clock in good condition and
may in fact explain why some of the holes in the frame are so elongated.
So how much should a suitable weight weigh?


HS Walsh and Cousins are suppliers of clock parts.
Those pins will have a taper on them and possibly best measured off an
existing one rather than trying to measure a locating hole at that size.
For small amounts of raw materials such as your brass needs look at
model engineers supplies or a surprising amount of metals on ebay.
The postage is a bit of a killer for any quantity due to the weight but
sounds like you will only need a small amount.

Thanks.

I had come across John Wardle and Co but they didn't seem to have
anything I wanted except possibly replacement weights. Their weights
range from 6.5lb to 12lb.

HS Walsh and Cousins hadn't come up but I will follow that up now.

--
Roger Chapman

On 07/02/2017 19:41, Roger Chapman wrote:
On 07/02/2017 17:30, Bob Minchin wrote:
Roger Chapman wrote:
Hi all

I have a late 18th century 30 hour long case clock in need of some TLC
which might include making replacements for parts of the frame if the
holes are too elongated to accurately bush.

The worn parts are made out of brass strip about 7/8" wide and a
fraction over 1/8" thick (0.131" as close as I can measure).

I also need things like an elegant pin to hold the hands on (currently a
safety pin) as well as a replacement post to hold the brass dial on. The
broken post is currently riveted in place with a collar to provide a
secure fixing but I could probably get away with a plain brass rod with
a hammered end since the chapter ring covers the expanded end. There is
a bit of a taper on the remaining pin and the riveted end is not visible
but brass rod of about 5/32" might do. Also needed are retaining pins or
some other kind of fixing to retain the dial in position.Ordinary
domestic pins are a loose fit.

I would be grateful for any ideas about where I can the brass strip and
proper replacements for the small bits needed or the basic materials to
make the them if not available off the shelf.

On a slightly different aspect the clock (from a distant relative back
in the 1960s) came with a rough cast lead weight weighing an almighty
14lbs. That seems to me far too heavy for a clock in good condition and
may in fact explain why some of the holes in the frame are so elongated.
So how much should a suitable weight weigh?


HS Walsh and Cousins are suppliers of clock parts.
Those pins will have a taper on them and possibly best measured off an
existing one rather than trying to measure a locating hole at that size.
For small amounts of raw materials such as your brass needs look at
model engineers supplies or a surprising amount of metals on ebay.
The postage is a bit of a killer for any quantity due to the weight but
sounds like you will only need a small amount.

Thanks.

I had come across John Wardle and Co but they didn't seem to have
anything I wanted except possibly replacement weights. Their weights
range from 6.5lb to 12lb.

HS Walsh and Cousins hadn't come up but I will follow that up now.

Does the clock run fast or the chimes run fast....

Quote:
4. Will improper weight placement adversely affect my grandfather clock?
Yes, because the time, chime, and strike trains of your grandfather
clock were designed by the manufacturer to be powered by a weight of an
exact number of lbs. For example, if you hang a weight that is too light
on the chime train, the chimes will run slow, or perhaps won't run at
all! On the other hand, if you hang a weight that is too heavy on the
strike train, the strike will run too fast, and result in movement
damage and eventual failure!

On 07/02/17 16:35, Roger Chapman wrote:

I have a late 18th century 30 hour long case clock in need of some TLC
which might include making replacements for parts of the frame if the
holes are too elongated to accurately bush.

If in doubt, drill oversize, insert and peen over a solid brass plug,
remark the centre, drill, and then finish with a clockmaker's broach to
suit the size of the pivot concerned


The worn parts are made out of brass strip about 7/8" wide and a
fraction over 1/8" thick (0.131" as close as I can measure).

I also need things like an elegant pin to hold the hands on (currently a
safety pin) as well as a replacement post to hold the brass dial on.

Tapered clock pins are available in a range of sizes, with no apparent
logic about the taper or increment between sizes. Traditionally, one
uses a steel pin in brass and vice versa, but the world rarely ends if
you don't.


The
broken post is currently riveted in place with a collar to provide a
secure fixing but I could probably get away with a plain brass rod with
a hammered end since the chapter ring covers the expanded end. There is
a bit of a taper on the remaining pin and the riveted end is not visible
but brass rod of about 5/32" might do. Also needed are retaining pins or
some other kind of fixing to retain the dial in position.Ordinary
domestic pins are a loose fit.

Start with brass bar a bit oversize and turn it down, if need be by
gripping it in the chuck of a drill and using a file.


I would be grateful for any ideas about where I can the brass strip and
proper replacements for the small bits needed or the basic materials to
make the them if not available off the shelf.

Cousins or H S Walsh, as others have said, or Meadows & Passmore


On a slightly different aspect the clock (from a distant relative back
in the 1960s) came with a rough cast lead weight weighing an almighty
14lbs.

That seems to me far too heavy for a clock in good condition and
may in fact explain why some of the holes in the frame are so elongated.
So how much should a suitable weight weigh?


Eight day clocks (two weights) often used 12-14lb, 30 hour clocks used
lighter ones of say 8-10 lb. Using a heavier weight was always a quick
fix for a clock so knackered it wouldn't run on any less, but in the
long run, it causes more wear.

And don't forget: no oil on pinions or wheel teeth. They are nominally
in rolling contact, so oil just turns dust into grinding paste. A tiny
spot of oil where pivots run in the clock plates, and an even tinier one
on each pallet face (the bit that releases the 'scape wheel).

Kevin
(clockmaker (retired))

Roger Chapman wrote:
Hi all

I have a late 18th century 30 hour long case clock in need of some TLC
which might include making replacements for parts of the frame if the
holes are too elongated to accurately bush.

The worn parts are made out of brass strip about 7/8" wide and a
fraction over 1/8" thick (0.131" as close as I can measure).

I also need things like an elegant pin to hold the hands on (currently a
safety pin) as well as a replacement post to hold the brass dial on. The
broken post is currently riveted in place with a collar to provide a
secure fixing but I could probably get away with a plain brass rod with
a hammered end since the chapter ring covers the expanded end. There is
a bit of a taper on the remaining pin and the riveted end is not visible
but brass rod of about 5/32" might do. Also needed are retaining pins or
some other kind of fixing to retain the dial in position.Ordinary
domestic pins are a loose fit.

I would be grateful for any ideas about where I can the brass strip and
proper replacements for the small bits needed or the basic materials to
make the them if not available off the shelf.

On a slightly different aspect the clock (from a distant relative back
in the 1960s) came with a rough cast lead weight weighing an almighty
14lbs. That seems to me far too heavy for a clock in good condition and
may in fact explain why some of the holes in the frame are so elongated.
So how much should a suitable weight weigh?


Get the DIY bug And make the parts yourself, work on my principal,if
someone else can do something I can.
In days of yore all the bits were made by hand and in the earliest days
by non experts before they became expert.

On 07/02/2017 21:00, ss wrote:

snip

Does the clock run fast or the chimes run fast....

Sadly this is a simple clock from an obscure provincial maker. It just
has a bell for striking the hours.

The maker is Samuel Corbett of Hadleigh, Suffolk. So obscure that the
only thing I have learned about him so far is that he was in business in
Hadleigh from 1766 to 1799. Anyone know anything further?

--
Roger Chapman

There is not a lot of movement in the pendulum from side to side so a heavy
weight is needed to make it work accurately.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"ss" wrote in message
...


I would be grateful for any ideas about where I can the brass strip and
proper replacements for the small bits needed or the basic materials to
make the them if not available off the shelf.

On a slightly different aspect the clock (from a distant relative back
in the 1960s) came with a rough cast lead weight weighing an almighty
14lbs. That seems to me far too heavy for a clock in good condition and
may in fact explain why some of the holes in the frame are so elongated.
So how much should a suitable weight weigh?


Various bits are sometimes available on ebay, if not just google for them.
The weight is probably correct I have a couple of longcase type clocks
(stored at the moment) and from memory I reckon they are a similar weight.

On 07/02/2017 21:59, Kevin wrote:
On 07/02/17 16:35, Roger Chapman wrote:

I have a late 18th century 30 hour long case clock in need of some TLC
which might include making replacements for parts of the frame if the
holes are too elongated to accurately bush.

If in doubt, drill oversize, insert and peen over a solid brass plug,
remark the centre, drill, and then finish with a clockmaker's broach to
suit the size of the pivot concerned

I had thought about blanking the holes off but was torn between that and
retaining the original parts as part of the history of the clock.

The worn parts are made out of brass strip about 7/8" wide and a
fraction over 1/8" thick (0.131" as close as I can measure).

I also need things like an elegant pin to hold the hands on (currently a
safety pin) as well as a replacement post to hold the brass dial on.

Tapered clock pins are available in a range of sizes, with no apparent
logic about the taper or increment between sizes. Traditionally, one
uses a steel pin in brass and vice versa, but the world rarely ends if
you don't.


The
broken post is currently riveted in place with a collar to provide a
secure fixing but I could probably get away with a plain brass rod with
a hammered end since the chapter ring covers the expanded end. There is
a bit of a taper on the remaining pin and the riveted end is not visible
but brass rod of about 5/32" might do. Also needed are retaining pins or
some other kind of fixing to retain the dial in position.Ordinary
domestic pins are a loose fit.

Start with brass bar a bit oversize and turn it down, if need be by
gripping it in the chuck of a drill and using a file.


I would be grateful for any ideas about where I can the brass strip and
proper replacements for the small bits needed or the basic materials to
make the them if not available off the shelf.

Cousins or H S Walsh, as others have said, or Meadows & Passmore

Another lead to follow up.

On a slightly different aspect the clock (from a distant relative back
in the 1960s) came with a rough cast lead weight weighing an almighty
14lbs.

That seems to me far too heavy for a clock in good condition and
may in fact explain why some of the holes in the frame are so elongated.
So how much should a suitable weight weigh?


Eight day clocks (two weights) often used 12-14lb, 30 hour clocks used
lighter ones of say 8-10 lb. Using a heavier weight was always a quick
fix for a clock so knackered it wouldn't run on any less, but in the
long run, it causes more wear.

I intend to see what the minimum weight to run the lock is once I have
it up and running again. It is easy enough to saw lump off the lead
weight. Rather more tricky to recast it should I hack too much off.

And don't forget: no oil on pinions or wheel teeth. They are nominally
in rolling contact, so oil just turns dust into grinding paste. A tiny
spot of oil where pivots run in the clock plates, and an even tinier one
on each pallet face (the bit that releases the 'scape wheel).

It could easily be grinding paste that did some of the damage in the
first place. I probably used oil on the pivots after I gave it a
thorough clean when I first got it but it was not running long before
the state of the case led to me ask my father for assistance (a much
better carpenter than me) and the works were packed away in a box in
1976 and remained that way until recently after a house move put that
and other things on hold.

Kevin
(clockmaker (retired))


Thanks for all the advice Kevin

--
Roger Chapman

On 08/02/2017 12:51, F Murtz wrote:

Get the DIY bug And make the parts yourself, work on my principal,if
someone else can do something I can.
In days of yore all the bits were made by hand and in the earliest days
by non experts before they became expert.

The works for this particular clock look too uniform to be all
handmade. I suspect it was more a matter of clock assembler rather than
maker from scratch.

The case on the other hand is rather crude and not the work of a budding
Chippendale.

As for me I have always done what I could rather than pay someone else
to do what might be quicker work but not necessarily of higher quality.

The reason I have taken so long to return to the clock was because it
was always third in line behind more important renovations. It wasn't
until old age and infirmity convinced me that I would never finish
renovating the hovel I had bought back in 1978 without the assistance of
a builder that the 2nd unfinished project in the form of two classic
cars, largely untouched since the early 1980s, departed in return for a
significant cash payment that went some way to paying the builder.


--
Roger Chapman

On 08/02/2017 14:12, Brian Gaff wrote:
There is not a lot of movement in the pendulum from side to side so a heavy
weight is needed to make it work accurately.
Brian


Hmm. A pendulum needs a helping hand to get going but once swinging
needs only a gentle nudge to keep going. Not much drag in the pivot and
not much air resistance to the swinging bob.

--
Roger Chapman

On Wednesday, February 8, 2017 at 1:57:15 PM UTC, Roger Chapman wrote:
On 07/02/2017 21:00, ss wrote:

snip

Does the clock run fast or the chimes run fast....

Sadly this is a simple clock from an obscure provincial maker. It just
has a bell for striking the hours.

The maker is Samuel Corbett of Hadleigh, Suffolk. So obscure that the
only thing I have learned about him so far is that he was in business in
Hadleigh from 1766 to 1799. Anyone know anything further?

--
Roger Chapman

Provincial makers tended to be like modern car assemblers, not doing any skilled mechanical work but importing the works ready built from London, then putting their own case, dial and name on the front.
However, if their name is tastefully engraved on the brass, it may be genuine.

On 09/02/2017 23:57, therustyone wrote:

snip

Sadly this is a simple clock from an obscure provincial maker. It just
has a bell for striking the hours.

The maker is Samuel Corbett of Hadleigh, Suffolk. So obscure that the
only thing I have learned about him so far is that he was in business in
Hadleigh from 1766 to 1799. Anyone know anything further?

Provincial makers tended to be like modern car assemblers, not doing any skilled mechanical work but importing the works ready built from London, then putting their own case, dial and name on the front.
However, if their name is tastefully engraved on the brass, it may be genuine.

The name is indeed tastefully engraved on brass but the brass in
question is a detachable plaque pinned to the brass back-plate like the
chapter ring and the embellished corners. I would not be at all
surprised if it turned out that the the plaque is the only unique part
of the works.

This Samuel Corbett is almost certainly the man who was married in
Hadleigh in 1769 and buried there, age 79, in 1821. His birthplace is
uncertain but likely to have been in the northern half of Suffolk given
the concentration of Corbets around Lowestoft in the first half of the
18th century.

--
Roger Chapman

On 09/02/2017 23:57, therustyone wrote:
On Wednesday, February 8, 2017 at 1:57:15 PM UTC, Roger Chapman wrote:
On 07/02/2017 21:00, ss wrote:

snip

Does the clock run fast or the chimes run fast....

Sadly this is a simple clock from an obscure provincial maker. It just
has a bell for striking the hours.

The maker is Samuel Corbett of Hadleigh, Suffolk. So obscure that the
only thing I have learned about him so far is that he was in business in
Hadleigh from 1766 to 1799. Anyone know anything further?

Provincial makers tended to be like modern car assemblers, not doing any skilled mechanical work but importing the works ready built from London, then putting their own case, dial and name on the front.
However, if their name is tastefully engraved on the brass, it may be genuine.

I've got a mantle clock with "Roger Lascelles London" "tastefully"
printed on it, but the movement is obviously a 20p quartz job made in
China. they have the cheek to describe themselves as "UK's Largest Clock
Manufacturer".

--
Max Demian

On 10/02/2017 10:20, Roger Chapman wrote:
This Samuel Corbett is almost certainly the man who was married in
Hadleigh in 1769 and buried there, age 79, in 1821. His birthplace is
uncertain but likely to have been in the northern half of Suffolk given
the concentration of Corbets around Lowestoft in the first half of the
18th century.

I did a quick google and found a Samuel Corbett, clockmaker, of
Coventry... then decided it was too hard.

Andy

On 11/02/2017 20:35, Vir Campestris wrote:
On 10/02/2017 10:20, Roger Chapman wrote:
This Samuel Corbett is almost certainly the man who was married in
Hadleigh in 1769 and buried there, age 79, in 1821. His birthplace is
uncertain but likely to have been in the northern half of Suffolk given
the concentration of Corbets around Lowestoft in the first half of the
18th century.

I did a quick google and found a Samuel Corbett, clockmaker, of
Coventry... then decided it was too hard.

Andy

Most clock maker records in the early days concentrate on London makers
almost to the exclusion of anyone else. I restricted my search to
Suffolk and there is a list available for Suffolk makers. Hadleigh was a
prosperous place in the 18th century, as were many of the towns
thereabouts with several clock makers in business in the second half of
the 18th century. My information on Corbetts in Suffolk generally came
from familysearch.org, the Mormons' attempt to document everyone who can
be found to have left even the faintest of genealogical traces in recent
centuries,

--
Roger Chapman