This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

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On 16/01/2017 13:21, Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

Which way does the thread run? What do the instructions say about that?

You've locked the spindle, I take it?

I can't see why dismantling it would help. These things are designed to
be undone without dismantling. Why not return it?




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On 16/01/2017 13:24, GB wrote:
On 16/01/2017 13:21, Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

Which way does the thread run? What do the instructions say about that?

You've locked the spindle, I take it?

I can't see why dismantling it would help. These things are designed to
be undone without dismantling. Why not return it?




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They'll refund but don't want it back, so I don't mind wasting a bit of
time on it


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On 16/01/2017 13:38, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 13:24:58 +0000, GB
wrote:

On 16/01/2017 13:21, Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

Which way does the thread run?

My immediate thought also. LH or RH thread?


Usual grinder direction, clockwise afaik

---
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Stuart Noble wrote:
On 16/01/2017 13:38, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 13:24:58 +0000, GB
wrote:

On 16/01/2017 13:21, Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

Which way does the thread run?

My immediate thought also. LH or RH thread?


Usual grinder direction, clockwise afaik

Have you looked at the thread? Have you locked the shaft? Are you using the
appropriate tool?

snip stupid sig

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 16/01/2017 14:09, Huge wrote:
On 2017-01-16, Stuart Noble wrote:

[16 lines snipped]

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Stuart, do you think you could consider either switching this pointless
message off, or correcting the separator (it should be "-- NL")?

http://www.getavast.net/support/remove-e-mail-signature


I think it's gone now

On 16/01/2017 14:13, Tim+ wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
On 16/01/2017 13:38, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 13:24:58 +0000, GB
wrote:

On 16/01/2017 13:21, Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

Which way does the thread run?

My immediate thought also. LH or RH thread?


Usual grinder direction, clockwise afaik

Have you looked at the thread? Have you locked the shaft? Are you using the
appropriate tool?

snip stupid sig

Tim


yes yes and yes

Stuart Noble wrote:
On 16/01/2017 14:13, Tim+ wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
On 16/01/2017 13:38, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 13:24:58 +0000, GB
wrote:

On 16/01/2017 13:21, Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

Which way does the thread run?

My immediate thought also. LH or RH thread?


Usual grinder direction, clockwise afaik

Have you looked at the thread? Have you locked the shaft? Are you using the
appropriate tool?

snip stupid sig

Tim


yes yes and yes


In that case I think you need to post some pictures because I'm darned if I
can work out why it won't undo.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 16/01/2017 14:02, Stuart Noble wrote:

They'll refund but don't want it back, so I don't mind wasting a bit of
time on it

Look, either read the instructions, or just try unbolting it in what you
regard as the wrong direction. It won't do it any harm.

On 16/01/2017 14:51, Tim+ wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
On 16/01/2017 14:13, Tim+ wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
On 16/01/2017 13:38, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 13:24:58 +0000, GB
wrote:

On 16/01/2017 13:21, Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

Which way does the thread run?

My immediate thought also. LH or RH thread?


Usual grinder direction, clockwise afaik

Have you looked at the thread? Have you locked the shaft? Are you using the
appropriate tool?

snip stupid sig

Tim


yes yes and yes


In that case I think you need to post some pictures because I'm darned if I
can work out why it won't undo.

Tim

It's a bog standard grinder design but, as usual it's difficult to
engage the lock and get any sort of pressure on the nut. It's obviously
been over tightened at the factory

On Monday, 16 January 2017 16:22:37 UTC, Stuart Noble wrote:

It's a bog standard grinder design but, as usual it's difficult to
engage the lock and get any sort of pressure on the nut. It's obviously
been over tightened at the factory

I reckon you've got more of an idea than the suggestions so far. I don't see how else you'll lock the spindle.


NT

Stuart Noble wrote:

On 16/01/2017 14:13, Tim+ wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
On 16/01/2017 13:38, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 13:24:58 +0000, GB
wrote:

On 16/01/2017 13:21, Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

Which way does the thread run?

My immediate thought also. LH or RH thread?


Usual grinder direction, clockwise afaik

Have you looked at the thread? Have you locked the shaft? Are you using the
appropriate tool?

snip stupid sig

Tim


yes yes and yes

Have you tried fixing the machine to a heavy bench with a vice, clamp
or whatever, getting a short well-fitting spanner pre-tensioned against
the locking pin with a wooden lever (a metal one has too much
elasticity) and tapping it quite hard with a big hammer when everything
is stable and the forces are all in the right direction? The only thing
after this (and before cutting the nut) is to try a cold chisel directly
on the corner of the nut in the correct rotational direction an impulse
tool or a socket with a very long lever. But the last one will probably
break the locking pin or the casing of the grinder.

--

Roger Hayter

On 16/01/2017 13:21, Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

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There's a specialist web site called Grindr, and I'm sure someone there
will be able to help with your nuts and shaft.

Cheers
--
Clive

On 16/01/2017 13:21, Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

Perhaps it was misthreaded from new (or the thread has galled in some
way) - so it may never undo...


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Take it back and ask them to get it off if its new.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk on
the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer, spanner),
and am wondering whether I might get better access to the shaft if I
dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 16/01/2017 16:22, Stuart Noble wrote:
On 16/01/2017 14:51, Tim+ wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
On 16/01/2017 14:13, Tim+ wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
On 16/01/2017 13:38, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 13:24:58 +0000, GB
wrote:

On 16/01/2017 13:21, Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is
no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

Which way does the thread run?

My immediate thought also. LH or RH thread?


Usual grinder direction, clockwise afaik

Have you looked at the thread? Have you locked the shaft? Are you
using the
appropriate tool?

snip stupid sig

Tim


yes yes and yes


In that case I think you need to post some pictures because I'm darned
if I
can work out why it won't undo.

Tim

It's a bog standard grinder design but, as usual it's difficult to
engage the lock and get any sort of pressure on the nut. It's obviously
been over tightened at the factory


Have you tried an impact driver on it?
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 16/01/2017 13:21, Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

---
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Sounds like something you need an angle grinder to resolve !! or a nut
splitter. Anything more severe needs the shaft removing so you don't
damage the gears.

On 16/01/2017 19:21, wrote:
On 16/01/2017 13:21, Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

---
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Sounds like something you need an angle grinder to resolve !! or a nut
splitter. Anything more severe needs the shaft removing so you don't
damage the gears.

Oh well, I guess there's a reason the manufacturers don't want it back.
Maybe it's not the only one with the problem, a bit like those car
wheels that have been air tool tightened and will never move with
anything less.

Stuart Noble wrote:
On 16/01/2017 19:21, wrote:
On 16/01/2017 13:21, Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

---
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Sounds like something you need an angle grinder to resolve !! or a nut
splitter. Anything more severe needs the shaft removing so you don't
damage the gears.

Oh well, I guess there's a reason the manufacturers don't want it back.
Maybe it's not the only one with the problem, a bit like those car
wheels that have been air tool tightened and will never move with
anything less.
Is this grinder a double ended bench grinder,because they have different
nuts on each end one right one left hand thread, a rattle gun going in
the right direction for each end will remove it.

In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

---
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Clamp the disc in a soft jaw vice? And use the spindle lock.

Is it a normal spanner or a special?

--
*Too many clicks spoil the browse *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

---
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Clamp the disc in a soft jaw vice? And use the spindle lock.

Is it a normal spanner or a special?


has it got an anti-clockwise thread?

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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Clamp the disc in a soft jaw vice? And use the spindle lock.

What disc?

Is it a normal spanner or a special?

On 17/01/2017 11:38, F Murtz wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

---
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Clamp the disc in a soft jaw vice? And use the spindle lock.

What disc?

Is it a normal spanner or a special?



Nothing wrong with the thread, the nut from my old grinder fits
(clockwise). I think the only solution will be to destroy the current
nut somehow. Hacksaw across it next to the thread maybe, or use my old
grinder (less accurate probably).

On 17/01/2017 12:30, Stuart Noble wrote:
On 17/01/2017 11:38, F Murtz wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk
on the machine. I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer,
spanner), and am wondering whether I might get better access to the
shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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Clamp the disc in a soft jaw vice? And use the spindle lock.

What disc?

Is it a normal spanner or a special?



Nothing wrong with the thread, the nut from my old grinder fits
(clockwise). I think the only solution will be to destroy the current
nut somehow. Hacksaw across it next to the thread maybe, or use my old
grinder (less accurate probably).

Dismantling the head allows you to get a pair of moles on the shaft, but
still no movement.

In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
Oh well, I guess there's a reason the manufacturers don't want it back.
Maybe it's not the only one with the problem, a bit like those car
wheels that have been air tool tightened and will never move with
anything less.

You may not be able to shift them with the car toolkit brace, but I've yet
to find one which defeats my breaker bar.

--
*A chicken crossing the road is poultry in motion.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 17 Jan 2017 12:37:48 +0000, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Dismantling the head allows you to get a pair of moles on the shaft, but
still no movement.

You could buy a "nut splitter".

(Be warned: I bought one, and found it useless. Wouldn't fit on most nuts,
because the body interfered with it fitting well. It would fit some somehow, and
then pop off once force came into play -- and that's necessary in its intended
use). And if the nut is not a hex nut but a flat round two-hole thing, forget
the splitter fitting at all. . .

So buy one, try it, return if useless?

Or a Dremel with a thin cutting disc.


Thomas Prufer

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
This is the outer nut on a brand new mini grinder i.e. there is no disk on the machine.
I cannot shift the nut in the normal way (hammer, spanner), and am wondering whether I
might get better access to the shaft if I dismantle the thing. Advice appreciated


Try rotating the nut somehow and position a heat source so as to apply localised
heat to the outside of the nut, so that the nut eventually becomes hot before
the shaft which it encloses: so that the resulting expansion might separate the
seized threads if only by an infinitessimal amount.

Then use the standard procedure of placing a spannner on the nut
and then suddenly hitting the other end of the spanner with the end
a long piece of wood with maximum force, while the nut isn't looking.

On 17/01/2017 18:23, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jan 2017 12:37:48 +0000, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Dismantling the head allows you to get a pair of moles on the shaft, but
still no movement.

You could buy a "nut splitter".

(Be warned: I bought one, and found it useless. Wouldn't fit on most nuts,
because the body interfered with it fitting well. It would fit some somehow, and
then pop off once force came into play -- and that's necessary in its intended
use). And if the nut is not a hex nut but a flat round two-hole thing, forget
the splitter fitting at all. . .

So buy one, try it, return if useless?

Or a Dremel with a thin cutting disc.


Thomas Prufer

Yes it's the standard two hole thing. Never felt the need to own a
Dremel before and I doubt I'd ever use it again, so don't think that's
going to happen. Probably go after it with my old grinder, and maybe a
hacksaw to finish off.

On 17/01/2017 14:07, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
Oh well, I guess there's a reason the manufacturers don't want it back.
Maybe it's not the only one with the problem, a bit like those car
wheels that have been air tool tightened and will never move with
anything less.

You may not be able to shift them with the car toolkit brace, but I've yet
to find one which defeats my breaker bar.


Its probably easier to jack the car up and put a block under the wheel
wrench and use the cars weight to undo the nut.

In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 17/01/2017 14:07, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
Oh well, I guess there's a reason the manufacturers don't want it
back. Maybe it's not the only one with the problem, a bit like those
car wheels that have been air tool tightened and will never move with
anything less.

You may not be able to shift them with the car toolkit brace, but I've
yet to find one which defeats my breaker bar.


Its probably easier to jack the car up and put a block under the wheel
wrench and use the cars weight to undo the nut.

It's easier to check the torque settings are correct at home after the car
has been in the garage for anything wheel related. Rather than leave it
till a roadside wheel change.

--
*Certain frogs can be frozen solid, then thawed, and survive *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

dennis@home wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Stuart Noble wrote

Oh well, I guess there's a reason the manufacturers don't want it back.
Maybe it's not the only one with the problem, a bit like those car
wheels that have been air tool tightened and will never move with
anything less.

You may not be able to shift them with the car toolkit brace, but I've
yet to find one which defeats my breaker bar.

Its probably easier to jack the car up and put a block under the wheel
wrench and use the cars weight to undo the nut.

Interesting approach, thanks for that.

But what about with the wheels that the handbrake doesn’t work on ?

On Tue, 17 Jan 2017 19:27:42 +0000, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Yes it's the standard two hole thing. Never felt the need to own a
Dremel before and I doubt I'd ever use it again, so don't think that's
going to happen. Probably go after it with my old grinder, and maybe a
hacksaw to finish off.

The thin cutting wheels for the angle grinder -- they come in thicknesses
1.0-1.2-1.6-2.0 millimeters -- are worth having around, and don't cost much.
They remove much less material, and so cut faster, dump less heat into the
material, and spark less than the "thick" wheels.

They are for cutting thin sheet without warping and blueing them. When used to
cut thicker material, they may bind and shatter. Beware of this, budget for bits
of disc flying off, and use them so this can happen safely, and they are a very
useful tool.

Cut a chord through that nut, passing close to the shaft, and I'd guess that
it'll come off easily.


Thomas Prufer

On Tuesday, 17 January 2017 18:41:02 UTC, Moron Watch wrote:

Try rotating the nut somehow and position a heat source so as to apply localised
heat to the outside of the nut, so that the nut eventually becomes hot before
the shaft which it encloses

I would use my MIG welder to apply localised intense heat by putting a ring of weld around the flat surface of the nut. I've done this several times in similar circumstances (although not on an angle grinder) with great success. Be careful not to weld the nut to the shaft!

In article ,
David wrote:
I would use my MIG welder to apply localised intense heat by putting a
ring of weld around the flat surface of the nut. I've done this several
times in similar circumstances (although not on an angle grinder) with
great success. Be careful not to weld the nut to the shaft!

Yes. I had a bolt shear off flush in the old Rover engine. Into ally. Put
a gash nut over the bolt shaft and MIG welded it. Came out easily, and no
damage to the ally.

--
*WHAT IF THERE WERE NO HYPOTHETICAL QUESTIONS?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 18/01/2017 04:15, Rod Speed wrote:
dennis@home wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Stuart Noble wrote

Oh well, I guess there's a reason the manufacturers don't want it
back. Maybe it's not the only one with the problem, a bit like those
car wheels that have been air tool tightened and will never move
with anything less.

You may not be able to shift them with the car toolkit brace, but
I've yet to find one which defeats my breaker bar.

Its probably easier to jack the car up and put a block under the wheel
wrench and use the cars weight to undo the nut.

Interesting approach, thanks for that.

But what about with the wheels that the handbrake doesn’t work on ?

Get someone to press the foot brake.

On 1/18/2017 11:16 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
David wrote:
I would use my MIG welder to apply localised intense heat by putting a
ring of weld around the flat surface of the nut. I've done this several
times in similar circumstances (although not on an angle grinder) with
great success. Be careful not to weld the nut to the shaft!

Yes. I had a bolt shear off flush in the old Rover engine. Into ally. Put
a gash nut over the bolt shaft and MIG welded it. Came out easily, and no
damage to the ally.


But for steel on steel, and mindful of John Rumm's earlier suggestion, I
think I would attack the nut carefully with thin slitting disks on a Dremel.

Cut a chord through that nut, passing close to the shaft, and I'd guess that
it'll come off easily.




and indeed it did, with a hacksaw. Now I can either use a nut from the
old grinder or treat myself to the Bosch SDS Clic. Chuffed.

Stuart Noble wrote:

Cut a chord through that nut, passing close to the shaft, and I'd guess that
it'll come off easily.




and indeed it did, with a hacksaw. Now I can either use a nut from the
old grinder or treat myself to the Bosch SDS Clic. Chuffed.

I suppose there was no clue in the post mortem as to why it didn't want
to come off?

--

Roger Hayter

On 21/01/2017 18:59, Roger Hayter wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:

Cut a chord through that nut, passing close to the shaft, and I'd guess that
it'll come off easily.




and indeed it did, with a hacksaw. Now I can either use a nut from the
old grinder or treat myself to the Bosch SDS Clic. Chuffed.

I suppose there was no clue in the post mortem as to why it didn't want
to come off?


None at all, but new nut ran smoothly on the shaft. Mystery

Stuart Noble wrote:

On 21/01/2017 18:59, Roger Hayter wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:

Cut a chord through that nut, passing close to the shaft, and I'd
guess that it'll come off easily.




and indeed it did, with a hacksaw. Now I can either use a nut from the
old grinder or treat myself to the Bosch SDS Clic. Chuffed.

I suppose there was no clue in the post mortem as to why it didn't want
to come off?


None at all, but new nut ran smoothly on the shaft. Mystery

Maybe with a wide, flat nut on a wide flat plate it's the same thing as
guage blocks. Whatever that thing is. Or aren't they flat enough?

--

Roger Hayter