http://www.videosolutions.ltd.uk/Boat/Pipe.jpg

This looks like innocuous solvent pipe fittings. The lower section in
the photo was secured to a reinforced hose that goes to a water tank.

The lower part has an external diameter of 17mm but also has an internal
diameter of 9mm.

Why? Is it made to be this thick so it doesn't crush under a pipe-clip?

--
Mike Perkins
Video Solutions Ltd
www.videosolutions.ltd.uk

Mike Perkins wrote:

http://www.videosolutions.ltd.uk/Boat/Pipe.jpg

Looks like ABS pressure pipe

http://www.epco-plastics.com/abs_pipes.asp

This looks like innocuous solvent pipe fittings. The lower section in
the photo was secured to a reinforced hose that goes to a water tank.

The lower part has an external diameter of 17mm but also has an internal
diameter of 9mm.

Why? Is it made to be this thick so it doesn't crush under a pipe-clip?

Maybe the owner just had some oddments knocking around, rather than
there being any need for it?

On 13/01/2017 19:36, Andy Burns wrote:
Mike Perkins wrote:

http://www.videosolutions.ltd.uk/Boat/Pipe.jpg

Looks like ABS pressure pipe

http://www.epco-plastics.com/abs_pipes.asp

Except
http://www.epco-plastics.com/pdfs/abs.pdf

give the wall thickness of 1.7mm and an ID of 13.7mm.


This looks like innocuous solvent pipe fittings. The lower section in
the photo was secured to a reinforced hose that goes to a water tank.

The lower part has an external diameter of 17mm but also has an internal
diameter of 9mm.

Why? Is it made to be this thick so it doesn't crush under a pipe-clip?

Maybe the owner just had some oddments knocking around, rather than
there being any need for it?

That did cross my mind, but I was assuming this done for a purpose.

--
Mike Perkins
Video Solutions Ltd
www.videosolutions.ltd.uk

On 13-Jan-17 7:29 PM, Mike Perkins wrote:
http://www.videosolutions.ltd.uk/Boat/Pipe.jpg

This looks like innocuous solvent pipe fittings. The lower section in
the photo was secured to a reinforced hose that goes to a water tank.

The lower part has an external diameter of 17mm but also has an internal
diameter of 9mm.

That would be about right for 3/8" bore Class E uPVC pipe.

Why? Is it made to be this thick so it doesn't crush under a pipe-clip?

The other way around - so it doesn't burst under its rated 15 bar pressure.


--
--

Colin Bignell

On 13/01/2017 19:55, Nightjar wrote:
On 13-Jan-17 7:29 PM, Mike Perkins wrote:
http://www.videosolutions.ltd.uk/Boat/Pipe.jpg

This looks like innocuous solvent pipe fittings. The lower section in
the photo was secured to a reinforced hose that goes to a water tank.

The lower part has an external diameter of 17mm but also has an internal
diameter of 9mm.

That would be about right for 3/8" bore Class E uPVC pipe.

Thanks, but
http://www.epco-plastics.com/PVC-U_i..._technical.asp

gives the following dimensions:

N B PIPE OD (mm) CLASS MAX W P WALL (mm)
3/8" 17.1 E 15 1.50

suggesting an ID of 14mm?

Why? Is it made to be this thick so it doesn't crush under a pipe-clip?

The other way around - so it doesn't burst under its rated 15 bar pressure.



--
Mike Perkins
Video Solutions Ltd
www.videosolutions.ltd.uk

On 13/01/2017 20:18, Mike Perkins wrote:
On 13/01/2017 19:55, Nightjar wrote:
On 13-Jan-17 7:29 PM, Mike Perkins wrote:
http://www.videosolutions.ltd.uk/Boat/Pipe.jpg

This looks like innocuous solvent pipe fittings. The lower section in
the photo was secured to a reinforced hose that goes to a water tank.

The lower part has an external diameter of 17mm but also has an internal
diameter of 9mm.

That would be about right for 3/8" bore Class E uPVC pipe.

Thanks, but
http://www.epco-plastics.com/PVC-U_i..._technical.asp

gives the following dimensions:

N B PIPE OD (mm) CLASS MAX W P WALL (mm)
3/8" 17.1 E 15 1.50

suggesting an ID of 14mm?

I didn't spot that class 7, whatever that is, in the line below has a
wall thickness of 3.8mm suggesting an internal diameter of 9.5mm

--
Mike Perkins
Video Solutions Ltd
www.videosolutions.ltd.uk

On 13-Jan-17 8:21 PM, Mike Perkins wrote:
On 13/01/2017 20:18, Mike Perkins wrote:
On 13/01/2017 19:55, Nightjar wrote:
On 13-Jan-17 7:29 PM, Mike Perkins wrote:
http://www.videosolutions.ltd.uk/Boat/Pipe.jpg

This looks like innocuous solvent pipe fittings. The lower section in
the photo was secured to a reinforced hose that goes to a water tank.

The lower part has an external diameter of 17mm but also has an
internal
diameter of 9mm.

That would be about right for 3/8" bore Class E uPVC pipe.

Thanks, but
http://www.epco-plastics.com/PVC-U_i..._technical.asp

gives the following dimensions:

N B PIPE OD (mm) CLASS MAX W P WALL (mm)
3/8" 17.1 E 15 1.50

suggesting an ID of 14mm?

I didn't spot that class 7, whatever that is, in the line below has a
wall thickness of 3.8mm suggesting an internal diameter of 9.5mm


That comes of my using old reference books. Originally, PVC pipe sizes
were based upon iron and steel pipes, which were held together with BSP
threaded connections and had walls thick enough to allow a thread to be
cut on them. It seems that BS EN 1452:1999 allows smaller PVC pipes used
with solvent weld fittings to have the minimum wall thickness to achieve
the pressure rating, but also includes Class 7, for use where a thread
needs to be cut on the pipe. I don't use the smallest pipe sizes, so
hadn't come across that before.


--
--

Colin Bignell

On 13/01/2017 19:48, Mike Perkins wrote:


Are you asking this for a reason, or is the real purpose to
spam uk.diy with your commercial web address ?.

On Sat, 14 Jan 2017 10:00:11 +0000, Nightjar wrote:

I didn't spot that class 7, whatever that is, in the line below has a
wall thickness of 3.8mm suggesting an internal diameter of 9.5mm


That comes of my using old reference books. Originally, PVC pipe sizes
were based upon iron and steel pipes, which were held together with BSP
threaded connections and had walls thick enough to allow a thread to be
cut on them. It seems that BS EN 1452:1999 allows smaller PVC pipes used
with solvent weld fittings to have the minimum wall thickness to achieve
the pressure rating, but also includes Class 7, for use where a thread
needs to be cut on the pipe. I don't use the smallest pipe sizes, so
hadn't come across that before.

Seems that it's worth looking at the classes for wall thickness if the use
includes hot water at pressure.
I had to change a bit of pipe, just in case, when the DHW went from
gravity-fed to combi - pipe is full of water at, say, 60C+ then the pressure
rises when the tap is closed. The water pressure here was about 5 bar at
peak - I think it's a bit lower now.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 14/01/2017 12:48, Andrew wrote:
On 13/01/2017 19:48, Mike Perkins wrote:


Are you asking this for a reason, or is the real purpose to
spam uk.diy with your commercial web address ?

The purpose is to find out the fitting used. The link was to a photo and
I see no different to using a photo sharing website. If you've seen
many like this with these dimensions then please do add some value to
this thread.

I like the idea of solvent weld water pipe as opposed to push-fit. It
seems to have the flexibility of plastic and the confidence of copper
end-feed fittings without the time and issues of soldering. The problem
I now have is that the major convenient places I get my plumbing stuff
from, ie Screwfix and Toolstation only have push-fit.

--
Mike Perkins
Video Solutions Ltd
www.videosolutions.ltd.uk

On Monday, 16 January 2017 12:50:49 UTC, Mike Perkins wrote:
On 14/01/2017 12:48, Andrew wrote:
On 13/01/2017 19:48, Mike Perkins wrote:


Are you asking this for a reason, or is the real purpose to
spam uk.diy with your commercial web address ?

The purpose is to find out the fitting used. The link was to a photo and
I see no different to using a photo sharing website. If you've seen
many like this with these dimensions then please do add some value to
this thread.

I like the idea of solvent weld water pipe as opposed to push-fit. It
seems to have the flexibility of plastic and the confidence of copper
end-feed fittings without the time and issues of soldering. The problem
I now have is that the major convenient places I get my plumbing stuff
from, ie Screwfix and Toolstation only have push-fit.

The problem with solvent weld is it doesn't really solvent weld. I've tried dismantling 'welded' jains and it's not hard.


NT

On 18/01/2017 01:18, wrote:

The problem with solvent weld is it doesn't really solvent weld. I've tried dismantling 'welded' jains and it's not hard.


NT


That suggests you used the wrong solvent or it was dirty.

In article ,
wrote:
The problem with solvent weld is it doesn't really solvent weld. I've
tried dismantling 'welded' jains and it's not hard.

Then something went wrong. A correct solvent weld is as strong as the
pipe. You can never dismantle one of those - you have to cut the pipe and
use new fittings.

--
wife.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Wednesday, 18 January 2017 15:46:36 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:

The problem with solvent weld is it doesn't really solvent weld. I've
tried dismantling 'welded' jains and it's not hard.

Then something went wrong. A correct solvent weld is as strong as the
pipe. You can never dismantle one of those - you have to cut the pipe and
use new fittings.

I used to think so, but no. You do have to cut the pipe, but it can then be removed leaving the fitting usually reusable.


NT

On 18/01/2017 15:39, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
The problem with solvent weld is it doesn't really solvent weld. I've
tried dismantling 'welded' jains and it's not hard.

Then something went wrong. A correct solvent weld is as strong as the
pipe. You can never dismantle one of those - you have to cut the pipe and
use new fittings.

I have used solvent glue on other plastics, and I find it works up to a
point. The glue forms a flexible rubbery texture which creeps under any
tension.

Having said that, given the area of contact in a pipe fitting, and the
short distance between the inner and outer surfaces, it's not something
I would be worried about and should work very well.

--
Mike Perkins
Video Solutions Ltd
www.videosolutions.ltd.uk

On Wednesday, 18 January 2017 01:18:53 UTC, wrote:
On Monday, 16 January 2017 12:50:49 UTC, Mike Perkins wrote:
On 14/01/2017 12:48, Andrew wrote:
On 13/01/2017 19:48, Mike Perkins wrote:


Are you asking this for a reason, or is the real purpose to
spam uk.diy with your commercial web address ?

The purpose is to find out the fitting used. The link was to a photo and
I see no different to using a photo sharing website. If you've seen
many like this with these dimensions then please do add some value to
this thread.

I like the idea of solvent weld water pipe as opposed to push-fit. It
seems to have the flexibility of plastic and the confidence of copper
end-feed fittings without the time and issues of soldering. The problem
I now have is that the major convenient places I get my plumbing stuff
from, ie Screwfix and Toolstation only have push-fit.

The problem with solvent weld is it doesn't really solvent weld. I've tried dismantling 'welded' jains and it's not hard.


NT

The pipe has a film of something on it (dunno what) that has to be removed with sandpaper to make a good solvent weld joint.

It's important to insert the fitting an twist it when gluing up.
This distribute the glue over the entire surface of the joint.

On Friday, 20 January 2017 08:21:21 UTC, harry wrote:
On Wednesday, 18 January 2017 01:18:53 UTC, tabby wrote:

The problem with solvent weld is it doesn't really solvent weld. I've tried dismantling 'welded' jains and it's not hard.

The pipe has a film of something on it (dunno what) that has to be removed with sandpaper to make a good solvent weld joint.

It's important to insert the fitting an twist it when gluing up.
This distribute the glue over the entire surface of the joint.

Adhesive instructions specifically say do not twist it.


NT

In article ,
Mike Perkins wrote:
On 18/01/2017 15:39, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
The problem with solvent weld is it doesn't really solvent weld. I've
tried dismantling 'welded' jains and it's not hard.

Then something went wrong. A correct solvent weld is as strong as the
pipe. You can never dismantle one of those - you have to cut the pipe
and use new fittings.

I have used solvent glue on other plastics, and I find it works up to a
point. The glue forms a flexible rubbery texture which creeps under any
tension.

I thought we were talking about using the correct glue for the job.

Solvent weld is for PVC pipes. The sort of grey stuff you'll commonly find
used for waste. Often called Terrain. If used correctly with that, you
will never separate a joint. Believe me, I've tried. ;-)

Having said that, given the area of contact in a pipe fitting, and the
short distance between the inner and outer surfaces, it's not something
I would be worried about and should work very well.

What was the approved method of jointing the type of pipe you used?

--
*If God had wanted me to touch my toes, he would have put them on my knees

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 20/01/2017 11:18, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Mike Perkins
wrote:
On 18/01/2017 15:39, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
wrote:
The problem with solvent weld is it doesn't really solvent
weld. I've tried dismantling 'welded' jains and it's not hard.

Then something went wrong. A correct solvent weld is as strong as
the pipe. You can never dismantle one of those - you have to cut
the pipe and use new fittings.

I have used solvent glue on other plastics, and I find it works up
to a point. The glue forms a flexible rubbery texture which creeps
under any tension.

I thought we were talking about using the correct glue for the job.

I was talking about the solvent glue for waste pipes. Aren't they ABS?

Solvent weld is for PVC pipes. The sort of grey stuff you'll commonly
find used for waste. Often called Terrain. If used correctly with
that, you will never separate a joint. Believe me, I've tried. ;-)

That was my point, that the solvent glue seemed to have ideal qualities
for joining what are effectively capillary joins in plastic pipe.

Having said that, given the area of contact in a pipe fitting, and
the short distance between the inner and outer surfaces, it's not
something I would be worried about and should work very well.

What was the approved method of jointing the type of pipe you used?

I was surmising that the solvent welding of pipes should be very effective.

--
Mike Perkins
Video Solutions Ltd
www.videosolutions.ltd.uk

On Friday, 20 January 2017 09:27:14 UTC, wrote:
On Friday, 20 January 2017 08:21:21 UTC, harry wrote:
On Wednesday, 18 January 2017 01:18:53 UTC, tabby wrote:

The problem with solvent weld is it doesn't really solvent weld. I've tried dismantling 'welded' jains and it's not hard.

The pipe has a film of something on it (dunno what) that has to be removed with sandpaper to make a good solvent weld joint.

It's important to insert the fitting an twist it when gluing up.
This distribute the glue over the entire surface of the joint.

Adhesive instructions specifically say do not twist it.


NT

Well mine said to twist it to spreasd the glue.
Which makes sense.

In article ,
Mike Perkins wrote:
Then something went wrong. A correct solvent weld is as strong as
the pipe. You can never dismantle one of those - you have to cut
the pipe and use new fittings.

I have used solvent glue on other plastics, and I find it works up
to a point. The glue forms a flexible rubbery texture which creeps
under any tension.

I thought we were talking about using the correct glue for the job.

I was talking about the solvent glue for waste pipes. Aren't they ABS?

Solvent weld is for PVC pipes. The sort of grey stuff you'll commonly
find used for waste. Often called Terrain. If used correctly with
that, you will never separate a joint. Believe me, I've tried. ;-)

That was my point, that the solvent glue seemed to have ideal qualities
for joining what are effectively capillary joins in plastic pipe.

Having said that, given the area of contact in a pipe fitting, and
the short distance between the inner and outer surfaces, it's not
something I would be worried about and should work very well.

What was the approved method of jointing the type of pipe you used?

I was surmising that the solvent welding of pipes should be very
effective.


It's actually quite some time since I've bought solvent weld 'glue'.
Wonder if the formula has been changed to save the planet? Same as
Evostick?

--
*Gargling is a good way to see if your throat leaks.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.