The last time I skimmed a joint in plasterboard I used a product which I
cant remember the name of but it was sold as an easier to use subsitute
for normal skimming plaster, although proper plasterers didnt think so,
it dried white and came I think in a 5 or 10 kilo bag (powder)It sanded
very easily and gave me a good finish.

Any guesses as to what it was.

ss wrote:

The last time I skimmed a joint in plasterboard I used a product which I
cant remember the name of but it was sold as an easier to use subsitute
for normal skimming plaster, although proper plasterers didnt think so,
it dried white and came I think in a 5 or 10 kilo bag (powder)It sanded
very easily and gave me a good finish.

Any guesses as to what it was.

Dunno, but Wickes do a ready-mixed jointing compound which sands well

ss Wrote in message:
The last time I skimmed a joint in plasterboard I used a product which I
cant remember the name of but it was sold as an easier to use subsitute
for normal skimming plaster, although proper plasterers didnt think so,
it dried white and came I think in a 5 or 10 kilo bag (powder)It sanded
very easily and gave me a good finish.

Any guesses as to what it was.


Gyproc easi fill (or similar spelling)?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 24/11/2016 19:56, Andy Burns wrote:
ready-mixed jointing compound

Ok I will have a look at them.

Thanks

ss wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

ready-mixed jointing compound

Ok I will have a look at them.

Depends how big an area you're doing, for taper joints it's fine, but if
skimming several whole boards it would get expensive.

On 24/11/2016 22:41, Andy Burns wrote:
ss wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

ready-mixed jointing compound

Ok I will have a look at them.

Depends how big an area you're doing, for taper joints it's fine, but if
skimming several whole boards it would get expensive.



Just filling in some 5 inch holes which were previously halogen
fittings, I have fixed a batton and then a piece of plasterboard to
roughly fill the space. So now just levelling off with the filler.

On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 00:28:55 +0000, ss wrote:



Just filling in some 5 inch holes which were previously halogen
fittings, I have fixed a batton and then a piece of plasterboard to
roughly fill the space. So now just levelling off with the filler.

I've done similar jobs with ordinary filler.

On 25/11/2016 00:28, ss wrote:
On 24/11/2016 22:41, Andy Burns wrote:
ss wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

ready-mixed jointing compound

Ok I will have a look at them.

Depends how big an area you're doing, for taper joints it's fine, but if
skimming several whole boards it would get expensive.



Just filling in some 5 inch holes which were previously halogen
fittings, I have fixed a batton and then a piece of plasterboard to
roughly fill the space. So now just levelling off with the filler.

Wickes fine surface filler can be applied like normal gypsum
plaster, but unlike gypsum plaster you can scrape (*) and sand
it to get a flat finish.

(*) When set but, before dry use the long edge of a steel ruler
at about 30 degrees to remove excess, then when dry
use a sanding block.

On 25/11/2016 16:22, Andrew wrote:
Wickes fine surface filler can be applied like normal gypsum
plaster, but unlike gypsum plaster you can scrape (*) and sand
it to get a flat finish.

(*) When set but, before dry use the long edge of a steel ruler
at about 30 degrees to remove excess, then when dry
use a sanding block.

Thanks for the tips.

On Friday, 25 November 2016 16:22:09 UTC, Andrew wrote:
On 25/11/2016 00:28, ss wrote:
On 24/11/2016 22:41, Andy Burns wrote:
ss wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:

ready-mixed jointing compound

Ok I will have a look at them.

Depends how big an area you're doing, for taper joints it's fine, but if
skimming several whole boards it would get expensive.



Just filling in some 5 inch holes which were previously halogen
fittings, I have fixed a batton and then a piece of plasterboard to
roughly fill the space. So now just levelling off with the filler.

Wickes fine surface filler can be applied like normal gypsum
plaster, but unlike gypsum plaster you can scrape (*) and sand
it to get a flat finish.

(*) When set but, before dry use the long edge of a steel ruler
at about 30 degrees to remove excess, then when dry
use a sanding block.

That's roughly what I just did. Do the scraping accurately enough, fill fine surface imperfections and the sanding required dwindles to near zero.


NT

On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 16:22:01 +0000, Andrew wrote:

Wickes fine surface filler can be applied like normal gypsum
plaster, but unlike gypsum plaster you can scrape (*) and sand
it to get a flat finish.

(*) When set but, before dry use the long edge of a steel ruler
at about 30 degrees to remove excess, then when dry
use a sanding block.

The "polyfilla" type products can also be polished just like plaster.
Saves any messy sanding down.

--
Cheers
Dave.