Hello All

I have a standard 110mm clay sewer waste fitting. The center of this
hole is 220mm from the wall I want to mount the cistern onto. Is this
unusually far from the wall?

Pretty much all of the close-coupled WC's in the Heritage catalogue
have a distance shown from back-waste to wall of 110mm.

How would I go about fitting this, or is it possible?

I don't really want the cistern sticking off the wall on a chunk of
wood as it is now (on another wall, 3 elbow connectors jointed
together to use the same exit). Only options I can think of, unless
I've got this completely confused, are to build out the wall with a
sheet or two of plasterboard, OR, fit a high level cistern that allows
me a further distance from the wall for the pan.

It's my first WC, please be gentle.

--
Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK
uk.d-i-y FAQ: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Simon Avery wrote:

Hello All

I have a standard 110mm clay sewer waste fitting. The center of this
hole is 220mm from the wall I want to mount the cistern onto. Is this
unusually far from the wall?

Pretty much all of the close-coupled WC's in the Heritage catalogue
have a distance shown from back-waste to wall of 110mm.

How would I go about fitting this, or is it possible?

I don't really want the cistern sticking off the wall on a chunk of
wood as it is now (on another wall, 3 elbow connectors jointed
together to use the same exit). Only options I can think of, unless
I've got this completely confused, are to build out the wall with a
sheet or two of plasterboard, OR, fit a high level cistern that allows
me a further distance from the wall for the pan.

It's my first WC, please be gentle.


All 3 of my close-coupled toilets have outlet pipes whose centres are about
100mm from the wall - so it sounds as if yours was designed for a different
sort of toilet.

If you didn't want to use a high level cistern, you could probably use a low
level one which *isn't* close coupled - but is joined with a J tube.
Obviously, the pan would need a rear rather than top feed to accommodate
this. [At least with this arrangement, the bleeding seat will stay up!]
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!

On Sun, 4 Jan 2004 20:42:01 -0000, "Set Square"
wrote:




All 3 of my close-coupled toilets have outlet pipes whose centres are about
100mm from the wall - so it sounds as if yours was designed for a different
sort of toilet.

If you didn't want to use a high level cistern, you could probably use a low
level one which *isn't* close coupled - but is joined with a J tube.
Obviously, the pan would need a rear rather than top feed to accommodate
this. [At least with this arrangement, the bleeding seat will stay up!]

And he'll be able to clear a blocked bog without disconnecting the
water supply and taking the whole works off the wall.

--
Niall

Only options I can think of, unless I've got this completely confused,
are to build out the wall with a sheet or two of plasterboard, OR,
fit a high level cistern that allows me a further distance from the
wall for the pan.

I'd install a concealed cistern toilet. You build a cabinet at worktop
height exactly as far as you need to install the waste. The cistern goes
behind. The toilet backs on to the "wall". You use kitchen or bathroom
worktop on top of the cabinet. It is cleaner and neater and you gets lots of
worktop space. If it is wide enough, you can install a semi or fully
recessed basin in there too. I prefer semis myself, as the "rim" is far too
wide on a fully recessed.

Christian.

On Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:09:19 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:



I'd install a concealed cistern toilet. You build a cabinet at worktop
height exactly as far as you need to install the waste. The cistern goes
behind. The toilet backs on to the "wall". You use kitchen or bathroom
worktop on top of the cabinet. It is cleaner and neater and you gets lots of
worktop space. If it is wide enough, you can install a semi or fully
recessed basin in there too. I prefer semis myself, as the "rim" is far too
wide on a fully recessed.


But don't do it like far too many installations I've seen and tile the
whole lot up solid afterwards. You *will* need maintenance access to
the cistern, pipework and pan connector at some point.

People get so upset when you explain the choice between keeping their
blocked / faulty bog for evermore, or a sledge hammer to their
beautifully tiled kharzi.

--
Niall

But don't do it like far too many installations I've seen and tile the
whole lot up solid afterwards. You *will* need maintenance access to
the cistern, pipework and pan connector at some point.

It took many days of thinking before I worked out how to do mine without a
horrible hatch in the worktop or wall. In the end, I designed it with a
small top panel that slotted behind a horizontal trim that ran the full
length of the cabinet at handle height. This gave some access to the cistern
for inspection and allowed you to remove the handle. This allowed you to
release the large bottom panel, which gave access to the entire cistern.
Since I fitted it, I had to replace the entire syphon, so I'm glad I did!
The panels were T&G boarding with about 30 coats of varnish.

Christian.

"Set Square" wrote:

Hello Set

SS| All 3 of my close-coupled toilets have outlet pipes whose
SS| centres are about 100mm from the wall - so it sounds as if
SS| yours was designed for a different sort of toilet.

Bum, that's not what I wanted to hear.

What I wanted to hear was "No, it's perfectly normal and you won't
have any problem getting a toilet to fit."

Moving WC out is no longer an option - it'll bring it too close to the
basin on the other wall. So, it looks like Simon will be moving the
soil pipe instead, a job I was desperately trying to avoid.

That was the one thing I said "I can't change", so now it's just the
DG window unit, the ceiling, half a floor and 2 of the walls that I
/won't/ be replacing. (100% new plumbing, retiling all walls, half the
floor boards are rotten, 3 of the joists are gone...)

Thanks anyway. I'll probably still be working on this bathroom in
2005...

--
Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK
uk.d-i-y FAQ: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/

On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 20:36:03 GMT, (Simon
Avery) wrote:

"Set Square" wrote:

Hello Set

SS| All 3 of my close-coupled toilets have outlet pipes whose
SS| centres are about 100mm from the wall - so it sounds as if
SS| yours was designed for a different sort of toilet.

Bum, that's not what I wanted to hear.

What I wanted to hear was "No, it's perfectly normal and you won't
have any problem getting a toilet to fit."

Moving WC out is no longer an option - it'll bring it too close to the
basin on the other wall. So, it looks like Simon will be moving the
soil pipe instead, a job I was desperately trying to avoid.

That was the one thing I said "I can't change", so now it's just the
DG window unit, the ceiling, half a floor and 2 of the walls that I
/won't/ be replacing. (100% new plumbing, retiling all walls, half the
floor boards are rotten, 3 of the joists are gone...)

Thanks anyway. I'll probably still be working on this bathroom in
2005...

Look on the bright side. At least you're not moving the soil pipe
when it's a concrete floor. ;-)

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Look on the bright side. At least you're not moving the soil pipe
when it's a concrete floor. ;-)

Like mine :-/

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Colin Wilson wrote in message et...
Look on the bright side. At least you're not moving the soil pipe
when it's a concrete floor. ;-)

Like mine :-/

had this problem myself: solution was to find bog which matched hole
:-((((

later discovered you can get flexible plastic trap-to-hole in floor
connectors (seen in travis perkins): haven't tried them myself,
however.

outdoor stack pipes (where you can push the connector straight out of
the wall) make for far less matching trouble. unfortunately IIRC
these were off limits building regs-wise c. 1980 for a time, so
there's lots of house around with internal stacks.

Andy Hall wrote:

Hello Andy

Thanks anyway. I'll probably still be working on this
bathroom in 2005...
AH| Look on the bright side. At least you're not moving the
AH| soil pipe when it's a concrete floor. ;-)

Yes!

Actually not as big a job (aha) as I'd expected. The glazed stub pipe
broke off when I was moving a floorboard there, and the kwikfit
widgets will go straight into the sub-floor connector, so I can use
those to gain enough movement to put pan where I want it now.

--
Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK
uk.d-i-y FAQ: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/

On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 15:59:07 GMT, (Simon
Avery) wrote:

broke off when I was moving a floorboard there, and the kwikfit
widgets will go straight into the sub-floor connector ....

You are using a car exhaust pipe?

PoP

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