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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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On Fri, 2 Jan 2004 18:20:21 -0000, "JH" wrote:
Thanks to everyone for the quick replied, really helpful. Make sure you are buying what you think you are buying, Andy - Thanks for picking up on this, I re-checked the Danfoss product range and the TP7000 is overkill for my requirements of adding a room stat to a system which already has a timer. The RT52-RF should do the job and is much cheaper too. That's fine as long as you're happy with the simple timing options and don't care about the optimised operation that you can get from the timer/thermostat. Basically, leave the existing timer to control CH on/off (day/time/if at all) and add a thermostat to control temperature when the system is on, much the same as the function of the cylinder stat for the HW. Clearly Andy's other comments of taking the existing timer out of the system would be correct if I were to use the TP7000 (a timer and stat) - no point in having two timers for the CH. Now to the wiring. With the info from here plus the Honeywell wiring diagrams (which I found much clearer than the Danfoss ones) wiring the stat receiver in will involved a) Connect the stat receiver electronics live and neutral terminals to the existing permanent A/C supply terminals used for the valves and existing timer yes. b) Logically, "cut" the brown wire currently connected to the CH zone valve (I say logically as it must already have a break in it to get the existing timer into the circuit) then c) Connect the end leading to the motorised valve to the ON terminal in the stat receiver d) Connect the end that was leading away from the zone valve the COM terminal in the stat receiver It's probably better to reverse c) and d) in case you ever wanted to control something that should get power when the heating is above the set point temperature. I can't think of an example, and it won't cause a problem as you have described, just neatness really. Once wired, the stat receiver will have four wires going to it - mains live and neutral plus two brown wires. Have I got the wiring correct now? I think so. One other question I forgot to ask regarding wireless control. Given there are other wireless devices in the house (network, DECT, Bluetooth) can someone confirm that adding a wireless stat isn't going to interfere? I couldn't find any details from Danfoss etc. The Danfoss equipment operates on 433MHz which is typical of this type of equipment. It will almost certainly have some form of interference protection which will prevent erroneous switching. It won't protect against any deliberate gross jamming of the frequency, but that is not likely. WiFi operates on 2.4GHz as does Bluetooth. DECT is at around 1880-1900MHz Thanks Jules ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
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