Yes. I know this has been done before.... and the consensus that
silicone injection not worth the money.

However. I have damp in an internal wall (was end of house plus range
chimney opening) which I suspect might be due to the extension builders
bridging the existing slate damp course.

The other possibility is condensation as it is the *utility area* with
clothes washing and separate tumble drier (exhausted outside).

Also, above is a cold loft area.

I could fairly easily take off the skirting and drill into the soft red
brick to load with silicone fluid.

Has anyone successfully d-i-yed this?
--
Tim Lamb

On 15/10/16 12:31, Tim Lamb wrote:
Yes. I know this has been done before.... and the consensus that
silicone injection not worth the money.


******** to that. I lived in a house that was injected, all bar the
internal spine walls and the fireplace. I know where rising damp blew
plaster and rotted floorboards and carpet.

Where it wasn't injected.

I guess tehres no need for a damp course either :-)


However. I have damp in an internal wall (was end of house plus range
chimney opening) which I suspect might be due to the extension builders
bridging the existing slate damp course.


You sure there aver was a damp course?

The other possibility is condensation as it is the *utility area* with
clothes washing and separate tumble drier (exhausted outside).

Also, above is a cold loft area.

I could fairly easily take off the skirting and drill into the soft red
brick to load with silicone fluid.

Has anyone successfully d-i-yed this?

No, but first of all you have a range of possibilities beyond *rising*
damp to explore.


injection only helps if you have *rising* damp.

--
No Apple devices were knowingly used in the preparation of this post.

On Saturday, 15 October 2016 12:31:17 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
Yes. I know this has been done before.... and the consensus that
silicone injection not worth the money.

However. I have damp in an internal wall (was end of house plus range
chimney opening) which I suspect might be due to the extension builders
bridging the existing slate damp course.

The other possibility is condensation as it is the *utility area* with
clothes washing and separate tumble drier (exhausted outside).

Also, above is a cold loft area.

I could fairly easily take off the skirting and drill into the soft red
brick to load with silicone fluid.

Has anyone successfully d-i-yed this?

In over 99% of cases damp is not rising.


NT

Tim Lamb wrote:
Yes. I know this has been done before.... and the consensus that
silicone injection not worth the money.

However. I have damp in an internal wall (was end of house plus range
chimney opening) which I suspect might be due to the extension
builders bridging the existing slate damp course.

The other possibility is condensation as it is the *utility area* with
clothes washing and separate tumble drier (exhausted outside).

Also, above is a cold loft area.

I could fairly easily take off the skirting and drill into the soft
red brick to load with silicone fluid.

Has anyone successfully d-i-yed this?

Lots of people.
Don't use silicone injection fluid (is it even made any longer?) use cream
instead. You can get sausages of it from hire shops and builders merchants,
or you can now get tubes of it that go in a normal caulking/silicone gun
rather than the sausages that require a larger version.
Also, you don't drill into the bricks with the cream, you drill into the
joints above and below the DPC brick, 10mm dia masonry bit required and put
a bit of red tape at 50mm down so that the end of the hole is in the centre
of the mortar bed. When injecting the cream, insert the nozzle to the back
of the hole and inject very slowly as you are pulling the nozzle out so that
the hole is completely filled. the cream has no resistance unlike silicone
or caulk so it flys out of the nozzle so be gentle with the trigger.

On 15/10/16 13:48, wrote:
On Saturday, 15 October 2016 12:31:17 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
Yes. I know this has been done before.... and the consensus that
silicone injection not worth the money.

However. I have damp in an internal wall (was end of house plus range
chimney opening) which I suspect might be due to the extension builders
bridging the existing slate damp course.

The other possibility is condensation as it is the *utility area* with
clothes washing and separate tumble drier (exhausted outside).

Also, above is a cold loft area.

I could fairly easily take off the skirting and drill into the soft red
brick to load with silicone fluid.

Has anyone successfully d-i-yed this?

In over 99% of cases damp is not rising.

Because 99% of houses have a working damp proof course.



NT



--
"When a true genius appears in the world, you may know him by this sign,
that the dunces are all in confederacy against him."

Jonathan Swift.

On Saturday, 15 October 2016 13:55:38 UTC+1, Phil L wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:
Yes. I know this has been done before.... and the consensus that
silicone injection not worth the money.

I could fairly easily take off the skirting and drill into the soft
red brick to load with silicone fluid.

Has anyone successfully d-i-yed this?

Lots of people.
Don't use silicone injection fluid (is it even made any longer?) use cream
instead. You can get sausages of it from hire shops and builders merchants,
or you can now get tubes of it that go in a normal caulking/silicone gun
rather than the sausages that require a larger version.
Also, you don't drill into the bricks with the cream, you drill into the
joints above and below the DPC brick, 10mm dia masonry bit required and put
a bit of red tape at 50mm down so that the end of the hole is in the centre
of the mortar bed. When injecting the cream, insert the nozzle to the back
of the hole and inject very slowly as you are pulling the nozzle out so that
the hole is completely filled. the cream has no resistance unlike silicone
or caulk so it flys out of the nozzle so be gentle with the trigger.

and congratulate yourself on an afternoon well wasted. It's debris clearance and replastering that make the difference.


NT

wrote:
On Saturday, 15 October 2016 13:55:38 UTC+1, Phil L wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:
Yes. I know this has been done before.... and the consensus that
silicone injection not worth the money.

I could fairly easily take off the skirting and drill into the soft
red brick to load with silicone fluid.

Has anyone successfully d-i-yed this?

Lots of people.
Don't use silicone injection fluid (is it even made any longer?) use
cream instead. You can get sausages of it from hire shops and
builders merchants, or you can now get tubes of it that go in a
normal caulking/silicone gun rather than the sausages that require a
larger version.
Also, you don't drill into the bricks with the cream, you drill into
the joints above and below the DPC brick, 10mm dia masonry bit
required and put a bit of red tape at 50mm down so that the end of
the hole is in the centre of the mortar bed. When injecting the
cream, insert the nozzle to the back of the hole and inject very
slowly as you are pulling the nozzle out so that the hole is
completely filled. the cream has no resistance unlike silicone or
caulk so it flys out of the nozzle so be gentle with the trigger.

and congratulate yourself on an afternoon well wasted. It's debris
clearance and replastering that make the difference.

I've only applied DPC to a few hundred houses (without a callback to any of
them) so I'm not an expert, perhaps i should have told then to get a brush
and pan and a tub of ready mixed plaster instead.

In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes
On 15/10/16 12:31, Tim Lamb wrote:
Yes. I know this has been done before.... and the consensus that
silicone injection not worth the money.


******** to that. I lived in a house that was injected, all bar the
internal spine walls and the fireplace. I know where rising damp blew
plaster and rotted floorboards and carpet.

Where it wasn't injected.

I guess tehres no need for a damp course either :-)


However. I have damp in an internal wall (was end of house plus range
chimney opening) which I suspect might be due to the extension builders
bridging the existing slate damp course.


You sure there aver was a damp course?

I found slate elsewhere. Prolly Victorian with slate roof so likely.

The other possibility is condensation as it is the *utility area* with
clothes washing and separate tumble drier (exhausted outside).

Also, above is a cold loft area.

I could fairly easily take off the skirting and drill into the soft red
brick to load with silicone fluid.

Has anyone successfully d-i-yed this?

No, but first of all you have a range of possibilities beyond *rising*
damp to explore.


injection only helps if you have *rising* damp.

Yes. Got that:-)


--
Tim Lamb

In message , Phil L
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:
Yes. I know this has been done before.... and the consensus that
silicone injection not worth the money.

However. I have damp in an internal wall (was end of house plus range
chimney opening) which I suspect might be due to the extension
builders bridging the existing slate damp course.

The other possibility is condensation as it is the *utility area* with
clothes washing and separate tumble drier (exhausted outside).

Also, above is a cold loft area.

I could fairly easily take off the skirting and drill into the soft
red brick to load with silicone fluid.

Has anyone successfully d-i-yed this?

Lots of people.
Don't use silicone injection fluid (is it even made any longer?) use cream
instead. You can get sausages of it from hire shops and builders merchants,
or you can now get tubes of it that go in a normal caulking/silicone gun
rather than the sausages that require a larger version.
Also, you don't drill into the bricks with the cream, you drill into the
joints above and below the DPC brick, 10mm dia masonry bit required and put
a bit of red tape at 50mm down so that the end of the hole is in the centre
of the mortar bed. When injecting the cream, insert the nozzle to the back
of the hole and inject very slowly as you are pulling the nozzle out so that
the hole is completely filled. the cream has no resistance unlike silicone
or caulk so it flys out of the nozzle so be gentle with the trigger.

OK. I watched their video. If there is a dpc it is below floor screed so
I can only easily do above. This is 9" soft red brick.



--
Tim Lamb

On Saturday, 15 October 2016 14:27:21 UTC+1, Phil L wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 15 October 2016 13:55:38 UTC+1, Phil L wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:
snips

Yes. I know this has been done before.... and the consensus that
silicone injection not worth the money.

I could fairly easily take off the skirting and drill into the soft
red brick to load with silicone fluid.

Has anyone successfully d-i-yed this?

Lots of people.
Don't use silicone injection fluid (is it even made any longer?) use
cream instead.

and congratulate yourself on an afternoon well wasted. It's debris
clearance and replastering that make the difference.

I've only applied DPC to a few hundred houses (without a callback to any of
them) so I'm not an expert, perhaps i should have told then to get a brush
and pan and a tub of ready mixed plaster instead.


From elsewhe

some years ago around here a damp company
got into rather severe financial difficulty and for the last year (or
possibly more) of its existence was injecting walls not with silicone
fluid but with tap water. When this was discovered (when the company
was in administration) past customers were contacted. Not one had a
problem with damp.

The business
was run by two brothers who managed to get into debt but struggled on
for a long time. At some stage in the process their silicone liquid
supplier stopped supplying them. They then had the idea of using
water to stave off collapse to give them time to try to recover the
business.

Apparently they had no specific intention of defrauding people by
doing this - their plan was to go back later with the real liquid
when customers complained. However, no one complained. There was
some doubt over how long this went on for but it was at least 12
months. When the company finally sank it was to general regret.
They were actually good workmen renowned for their tidy work and well
liked by their clients. They were however, no use at running a
business. It seems they took rather long to realise that VAT, Tax
and NI are not optional payments.

The Receiver contacted their customers who had no complaints :-)
Apparently their meticulous clearing of the sides of houses was more
effective than the glop.


NT

In message ,
writes
On Saturday, 15 October 2016 13:55:38 UTC+1, Phil L wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:
Yes. I know this has been done before.... and the consensus that
silicone injection not worth the money.

I could fairly easily take off the skirting and drill into the soft
red brick to load with silicone fluid.

Has anyone successfully d-i-yed this?

Lots of people.
Don't use silicone injection fluid (is it even made any longer?) use cream
instead. You can get sausages of it from hire shops and builders merchants,
or you can now get tubes of it that go in a normal caulking/silicone gun
rather than the sausages that require a larger version.
Also, you don't drill into the bricks with the cream, you drill into the
joints above and below the DPC brick, 10mm dia masonry bit required and put
a bit of red tape at 50mm down so that the end of the hole is in the centre
of the mortar bed. When injecting the cream, insert the nozzle to the back
of the hole and inject very slowly as you are pulling the nozzle out so that
the hole is completely filled. the cream has no resistance unlike silicone
or caulk so it flys out of the nozzle so be gentle with the trigger.

and congratulate yourself on an afternoon well wasted. It's debris
clearance and replastering that make the difference.

Umm.. I don't actually know what is there. The original wall (outside)
was cement rendered and very prettily pargetted. I think the builder
will have stripped this off and plastered. Whether this is browning or
something else is beyond my knowledge. Skirting off and horizontal
drilling is easy... We took the plaster off the other side and exposed
the brick 20 years ago.


NT

--
Tim Lamb

In message ,
writes
On Saturday, 15 October 2016 13:55:38 UTC+1, Phil L wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:
Yes. I know this has been done before.... and the consensus that
silicone injection not worth the money.

I could fairly easily take off the skirting and drill into the soft
red brick to load with silicone fluid.

Has anyone successfully d-i-yed this?

Lots of people.
Don't use silicone injection fluid (is it even made any longer?) use cream
instead. You can get sausages of it from hire shops and builders merchants,
or you can now get tubes of it that go in a normal caulking/silicone gun
rather than the sausages that require a larger version.
Also, you don't drill into the bricks with the cream, you drill into the
joints above and below the DPC brick, 10mm dia masonry bit required and put
a bit of red tape at 50mm down so that the end of the hole is in the centre
of the mortar bed. When injecting the cream, insert the nozzle to the back
of the hole and inject very slowly as you are pulling the nozzle out so that
the hole is completely filled. the cream has no resistance unlike silicone
or caulk so it flys out of the nozzle so be gentle with the trigger.

and congratulate yourself on an afternoon well wasted. It's debris
clearance and replastering that make the difference.

I'm thinking it is rising damp for a number of reasons which you are
welcome to criticise:-)

I know the builders laid floor screed over foam without taking out the
existing quarry tile floor: probably laid on concrete with no membrane.

The patches of damp are up to shoulder height but not near the ceiling
where you might expect condensation. If this is too high for rising damp
then condensation in the chimneys might be an alternative. This was the
outside wall for the farm kitchen and has an opening for the kitchen
range. There is a second but closed off flue for an external boiler (my
mother's predecessors took in washing) and then a third closed off flue
for the bedroom above. I fitted chimney vents just above ceiling level
some years ago without noticeable effect.

I suppose a resistance reading on the exposed brick might give a more
accurate indication than the usual moisture test?

--
Tim Lamb

On Saturday, 15 October 2016 16:10:22 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:

I'm thinking it is rising damp for a number of reasons which you are
welcome to criticise:-)

I know the builders laid floor screed over foam without taking out the
existing quarry tile floor: probably laid on concrete with no membrane.

The patches of damp are up to shoulder height

then it's not RD.

but not near the ceiling
where you might expect condensation.

I expect condensation on the bottom foot or so mainly, plus cold corners, cupboards or anywhere else if RH is worse.

If this is too high for rising damp
then condensation in the chimneys might be an alternative. This was the
outside wall for the farm kitchen and has an opening for the kitchen
range. There is a second but closed off flue for an external boiler (my
mother's predecessors took in washing) and then a third closed off flue
for the bedroom above. I fitted chimney vents just above ceiling level
some years ago without noticeable effect.

I suppose a resistance reading on the exposed brick might give a more
accurate indication than the usual moisture test?

Resistance readings do not measure water content in masonry. The easy way to measure it is to look and see if there is a water damage problem. That's what matters after all. If for some reason you want a numerical reading, it's time to core drill, weigh, bake and reweigh. But of course that won't tell you whether there's enough water to cause damage, so is of limited use.


NT

On 15/10/16 16:10, Tim Lamb wrote:
The patches of damp are up to shoulder height

That is very high for rising damp actually


--
Canada is all right really, though not for the whole weekend.

"Saki"

On Sat, 15 Oct 2016 16:39:28 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 15/10/16 16:10, Tim Lamb wrote:
The patches of damp are up to shoulder height

That is very high for rising damp actually

Too high! I'd suspect another cause - probably the condensation issue.

On Saturday, 15 October 2016 12:31:17 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
Yes. I know this has been done before.... and the consensus that
silicone injection not worth the money.

However. I have damp in an internal wall (was end of house plus range
chimney opening) which I suspect might be due to the extension builders
bridging the existing slate damp course.

The other possibility is condensation as it is the *utility area* with
clothes washing and separate tumble drier (exhausted outside).

Also, above is a cold loft area.

I could fairly easily take off the skirting and drill into the soft red
brick to load with silicone fluid.

Has anyone successfully d-i-yed this?
--
Tim Lamb

I have done a whole house, worked well.
You need to be sure it IS rising damp & not condensation.

Easy job if tedious.
You can hire the pump (and drill if you don'r have one) at local tool hire shop. They will sell you the chemicals.

Plenty of info on youtube about how to go on.

In message , Mark
Allread writes
On Sat, 15 Oct 2016 16:39:28 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 15/10/16 16:10, Tim Lamb wrote:
The patches of damp are up to shoulder height

That is very high for rising damp actually

Too high! I'd suspect another cause - probably the condensation issue.

Oh! Back to more ventilation for the chimneys? These are bricked flues
about 12"x14". There is a *rain cover* fitted over the top to stop
direct rain penetration but the collected water will still drip on to
the brick.

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:
OK. I watched their video. If there is a dpc it is below floor screed
so I can only easily do above. This is 9" soft red brick.

If I were you I'd buy one tube,(ebay £15) and drill above and below the
lowest brick you can along the wall that is worst affected. If it's 9" it'll
need doing inside and out. The tube comes with a long nozzle that you can
cut to size.

Shoulder height is way too high for RD, 3ft is the maximum it can get, so it
may be RD at the bottom and penetrating damp higher up, you mentioned
exterior render elsewhere, this would be my first port of call - if it''s
loose anywhere it tends to hold water behind it and the bricks get soaked

On Sat, 15 Oct 2016 17:04:12 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

In message , Mark
Allread writes
On Sat, 15 Oct 2016 16:39:28 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 15/10/16 16:10, Tim Lamb wrote:
The patches of damp are up to shoulder height

That is very high for rising damp actually

Too high! I'd suspect another cause - probably the condensation issue.

Oh! Back to more ventilation for the chimneys?

That would seem to be the best solution to me.

These are bricked flues
about 12"x14". There is a *rain cover* fitted over the top to stop
direct rain penetration but the collected water will still drip on to
the brick.

and there you have the beginning of the problem. Could you take them out
completely and do a proper roofing job? Otherwise I'd be tempted to
fully open them and create a good through draft which would help the
condensation as well as dealing with the ingress of water.

On Saturday, 15 October 2016 18:12:10 UTC+1, Mark Allread wrote:
On Sat, 15 Oct 2016 17:04:12 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Mark
Allread writes
On Sat, 15 Oct 2016 16:39:28 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 15/10/16 16:10, Tim Lamb wrote:
The patches of damp are up to shoulder height

That is very high for rising damp actually

Too high! I'd suspect another cause - probably the condensation issue.

Oh! Back to more ventilation for the chimneys?

That would seem to be the best solution to me.

If it's condensation the obvious solutions are reduce vapour at source and/or a dehumidifier.


NT

In message , Phil L
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK. I watched their video. If there is a dpc it is below floor screed
so I can only easily do above. This is 9" soft red brick.

If I were you I'd buy one tube,(ebay £15) and drill above and below the
lowest brick you can along the wall that is worst affected. If it's 9" it'll
need doing inside and out. The tube comes with a long nozzle that you can
cut to size.

The wall is now inside: under a lean-to extension which has a cold attic
space.

Did I once read an elegant way of distinguishing condensation from damp
in here?

Shoulder height is way too high for RD, 3ft is the maximum it can get, so it
may be RD at the bottom and penetrating damp higher up, you mentioned
exterior render elsewhere, this would be my first port of call - if it''s
loose anywhere it tends to hold water behind it and the bricks get soaked

Still there but overclad with insulation and then feather edge boarding.
Something I had forgotten... my wife has a *pulley hauley* airing rack
in the same area. The suspect area has a large wall hung radiator with
apparent damp patches immediately above. Central heating only just gone
on though. I can arrange more/ lower down ventilation for the chimneys
fairly easily.

Dehumidifier not very practical. While this is a small area it is linked
by the entrance hall to other parts of the house. Not easy to ventilate
as we don't have fanlights on any windows. The vents are open and the
gas boiler adds a bit of summer warmth as we don't use the immersion
heater.



--
Tim Lamb

On Saturday, 15 October 2016 21:22:05 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Phil L
writes

Did I once read an elegant way of distinguishing condensation from damp
in here?

you already have.

Shoulder height is way too high for RD, 3ft is the maximum it can get, so it
may be RD at the bottom and penetrating damp higher up, you mentioned
exterior render elsewhere, this would be my first port of call - if it''s
loose anywhere it tends to hold water behind it and the bricks get soaked

Still there but overclad with insulation and then feather edge boarding.
Something I had forgotten... my wife has a *pulley hauley* airing rack
in the same area. The suspect area has a large wall hung radiator with
apparent damp patches immediately above. Central heating only just gone
on though. I can arrange more/ lower down ventilation for the chimneys
fairly easily.

Dehumidifier not very practical.

I don't know why, it would be the easy and nearest to definite solution option. You can get mini dehumidifiers.


NT

In message ,
writes
On Saturday, 15 October 2016 21:22:05 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:

Dehumidifier not very practical.

I don't know why, it would be the easy and nearest to definite solution
option. You can get mini dehumidifiers.

Yes. One moved there this morning. The practicality concern comes from
the size of the unenclosed space.

--
Tim Lamb

On Sat, 15 Oct 2016 21:11:39 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

In message , Phil L
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK. I watched their video. If there is a dpc it is below floor screed
so I can only easily do above. This is 9" soft red brick.



The wall is now inside: under a lean-to extension which has a cold attic
space.



Shoulder height is way too high for RD, 3ft is the maximum it can get,
so it may be RD at the bottom and penetrating damp higher up, you
mentioned exterior render elsewhere, this would be my first port of call
- if it''s loose anywhere it tends to hold water behind it and the
bricks get soaked

Still there but overclad with insulation and then feather edge boarding.
Something I had forgotten... my wife has a *pulley hauley* airing rack
in the same area.

Now you tell us!

So what it seems you have is an enclosed, non-ventilated drying room with
damp walls.

The suspect area has a large wall hung radiator with
apparent damp patches immediately above. Central heating only just gone
on though. I can arrange more/ lower down ventilation for the chimneys
fairly easily.

You do need to reduce moisture levels in the room either by not using it
as a drying room or ventilation or dehumidifying...

Dehumidifier not very practical. While this is a small area it is linked
by the entrance hall to other parts of the house. Not easy to ventilate
as we don't have fanlights on any windows. The vents are open and the
gas boiler adds a bit of summer warmth as we don't use the immersion
heater.

One possible option could be to use the existing chimney areas and fit
some kind of extractor cowl to the top of the chimney area. I've no idea
how this could be achieved though - or could you fit an extractor fan at
the top to pull the air up the chimney and out? Just thinking aloud.

In message , Mark
Allread writes
On Sat, 15 Oct 2016 21:11:39 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

In message , Phil L
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK. I watched their video. If there is a dpc it is below floor screed
so I can only easily do above. This is 9" soft red brick.



The wall is now inside: under a lean-to extension which has a cold attic
space.



Shoulder height is way too high for RD, 3ft is the maximum it can get,
so it may be RD at the bottom and penetrating damp higher up, you
mentioned exterior render elsewhere, this would be my first port of call
- if it''s loose anywhere it tends to hold water behind it and the
bricks get soaked

Still there but overclad with insulation and then feather edge boarding.
Something I had forgotten... my wife has a *pulley hauley* airing rack
in the same area.

Now you tell us!

Well it is above my eyeline when I am poking about in the freezer.

So what it seems you have is an enclosed, non-ventilated drying room with
damp walls.

I am assured it is only my socks that *dry* there. The rest is stuff
from the tumble drier being aired.

The suspect area has a large wall hung radiator with
apparent damp patches immediately above. Central heating only just gone
on though. I can arrange more/ lower down ventilation for the chimneys
fairly easily.

You do need to reduce moisture levels in the room either by not using it
as a drying room or ventilation or dehumidifying...

Dehumidifier not very practical. While this is a small area it is linked
by the entrance hall to other parts of the house. Not easy to ventilate
as we don't have fanlights on any windows. The vents are open and the
gas boiler adds a bit of summer warmth as we don't use the immersion
heater.

One possible option could be to use the existing chimney areas and fit
some kind of extractor cowl to the top of the chimney area. I've no idea
how this could be achieved though - or could you fit an extractor fan at
the top to pull the air up the chimney and out? Just thinking aloud.

Yes. I think the first move is to make sure all three chimneys have
vents at the lowest practical level.

I am still curious to learn why an internal wall should be colder than
the exterior cavity walls where there is no apparent condensation. With
a bit of effort, I could rearrange the canopy to drip rainwater clear of
the bricks.


--
Tim Lamb