Never used this wooden plane (had it 40 years) but have decided to tidy
it up and start using it.
The plane is 14 inches long. Should it be bevel up or down?

ss wrote:
Never used this wooden plane (had it 40 years) but have decided to tidy
it up and start using it.
The plane is 14 inches long. Should it be bevel up or down?


http://www.handplane.com/47/parts-of-a-wooden-plane/

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 15/09/2016 15:09, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
Never used this wooden plane (had it 40 years) but have decided to tidy
it up and start using it.
The plane is 14 inches long. Should it be bevel up or down?


http://www.handplane.com/47/parts-of-a-wooden-plane/

Tim


If you look at the blade (referred to as the 'iron') in the picture
shown in the above reference, you'll see that the ground edge is
horizontal when the blade is installed. That tells you which way round
it has to go.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 15/09/16 20:43, Roger Mills wrote:
On 15/09/2016 15:09, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
Never used this wooden plane (had it 40 years) but have decided to tidy
it up and start using it.
The plane is 14 inches long. Should it be bevel up or down?


http://www.handplane.com/47/parts-of-a-wooden-plane/

Tim


If you look at the blade (referred to as the 'iron') in the picture
shown in the above reference, you'll see that the ground edge is
horizontal when the blade is installed. That tells you which way round
it has to go.

That's an interesting observation, but I think it's a wrong one.
TW

On 15/09/2016 21:52, TimW wrote:
On 15/09/16 20:43, Roger Mills wrote:
On 15/09/2016 15:09, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
Never used this wooden plane (had it 40 years) but have decided to tidy
it up and start using it.
The plane is 14 inches long. Should it be bevel up or down?


http://www.handplane.com/47/parts-of-a-wooden-plane/

Tim


If you look at the blade (referred to as the 'iron') in the picture
shown in the above reference, you'll see that the ground edge is
horizontal when the blade is installed. That tells you which way round
it has to go.

That's an interesting observation, but I think it's a wrong one.
TW

Why do you think it's wrong?

I haven't got a wooden plane, but I've just had a look at my metal
plane. The ground edge is definitely facing down so as to be
horizontal-ish. It wouldn't work the other way because the cap iron
(chip-breaker) needs to face a flat surface. See
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plane_...plane_iron.jpg
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 16/09/16 11:06, Roger Mills wrote:
On 15/09/2016 21:52, TimW wrote:
On 15/09/16 20:43, Roger Mills wrote:
On 15/09/2016 15:09, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
Never used this wooden plane (had it 40 years) but have decided to
tidy
it up and start using it.
The plane is 14 inches long. Should it be bevel up or down?


http://www.handplane.com/47/parts-of-a-wooden-plane/

Tim


If you look at the blade (referred to as the 'iron') in the picture
shown in the above reference, you'll see that the ground edge is
horizontal when the blade is installed. That tells you which way round
it has to go.

That's an interesting observation, but I think it's a wrong one.
TW

Why do you think it's wrong?

I haven't got a wooden plane, but I've just had a look at my metal
plane. The ground edge is definitely facing down so as to be
horizontal-ish. It wouldn't work the other way because the cap iron
(chip-breaker) needs to face a flat surface. See
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plane_...plane_iron.jpg

Only because the iron is set into the plane on my general purpose planes
at something steeper than 45dg so a 30deg honing angle on the downward
facing bevel still leaves 20-30degrees off horizontal.
Here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Plane_parts.jpg the smoother at
around 45deg plus but the block plane gets a very low angle of attack by
being bevel up.

Now I think about it I am not sure I understand the difference.

Tim W

On Thursday, 15 September 2016 13:30:35 UTC+1, ss wrote:
Never used this wooden plane (had it 40 years) but have decided to tidy
it up and start using it.
The plane is 14 inches long. Should it be bevel up or down?

"Bevel" down.
The included angle for sharpening the blade is 30deg.

The grinding angle should be 25deg. Followed by the honing or sharpening angle of 35deg. Under no circumstances use a standard bench type carborundum wheel to grind the blade. Traditionally grinding has been done either on slow speed horizontal carborundum grindstones with oil cooling or on sandstone wheels with water cooling. The former are hard to get hold of now and expensive the latter have been superseded by small water cooled grinders such as the Tormek types. Honing should be done by hand on India stones or Arkansas stones using honing oil.

Richard

On 15/09/16 13:30, ss wrote:
Never used this wooden plane (had it 40 years) but have decided to tidy
it up and start using it.
The plane is 14 inches long. Should it be bevel up or down?

Wonderful! A wooden plane is a joy to use. I have a few which I used
when I worked in old buildings and a couple which were my grandfather's.

All planes are bevel down except for some very specialist applications.
At the business end (the cutting edge) the wood neither knows nor cares
which is which. But you can get a very low angle with bevel up for
certain specific purposes, like end grain or mahogany.

For sharpening - the men who used these tools didn't necessarily use a
text book with a stated angle. You grind the whole blade back so that
you can sharpen the edge 10 times before you have to grind the blade
back again. The sharpness is more important than the angle, and again
the angle might depend on what you are doing with it.

Only a fool in a hurry sharpens the flat side. But you wouldn't be the
first one. I keep mine flat and polished at the cutting edge. there is
no point fine sharpening one side if the other is all rough.

I have used and seen used for sharpening all combinations of stones,
wheels, abrasive papers, strops, diamond slips, belt sanders, boot
soles, scrap wood etc etc.and for cooling and lubricating 3in1, wd40,
spit, water, brylcream, diesel, Fairy Liquid, whatever works, the only
thing you must not do is overheat and blue the cutting edge when using a
wheel. I really like the cheap diamond plastic 'whetstones' you get
anywhere or from toolstation, and just water.

For most purposes you will want the cutting edge to be straight, but a
block plane with a convex cutting edge for finishing faces, so that
there is no corner ever to mark the surface is a useful tool.

I could go on, but I have gone on too long already.

Good Luck!
TW

On 15/09/2016 21:43, TimW wrote:
Wonderful! A wooden plane is a joy to use.

Thanks all for the replies. I set the wooden plane up as I saw fit and
it is indeed a joy. I still have some work to do on it as the sole has a
couple of high/low spots on it which I will plane flat. (I came across
some Paul sellers videos on utube which I enjoyed)
Its only in the last couple of years I have got back in to using hand
tools that I have owned for 40+ years. I am not that proficient but do
enjoy working with wood.
Most of my DIY work over the years has been what I call rough joinery so
I am now spending some time trying to understand more of hand tools.

On 15/09/2016 21:43, TimW wrote:
Wonderful! A wooden plane is a joy to use. I have a few which I used
when I worked in old buildings and a couple which were my grandfather's.

I was in China last week. Much to my surprise I saw some shopfitters
using wooden planes!

They seemed to have metal plates on the sole, so not pure wood.

Andy

On 30/09/16 21:55, Vir Campestris wrote:
On 15/09/2016 21:43, TimW wrote:
Wonderful! A wooden plane is a joy to use. I have a few which I used
when I worked in old buildings and a couple which were my grandfather's.

I was in China last week. Much to my surprise I saw some shopfitters
using wooden planes!

They seemed to have metal plates on the sole, so not pure wood.

Andy

Interesting. When I was a boy the chinese used bamboo scaffolding on
quite big buildings. I don't suppose they still do.

A wooden plane is lighter than a metal one, so easier to carry in a
toolbag and less tiring to use if you use it much.
TW

TimW wrote:

When I was a boy the chinese used bamboo scaffolding on
quite big buildings. I don't suppose they still do.

Not many alloy poles in these photos ...

https://google.co.uk/search?tbm=isch&q=hong+kong+scaffolding

"TimW" wrote in message
...
On 30/09/16 21:55, Vir Campestris wrote:
On 15/09/2016 21:43, TimW wrote:
Wonderful! A wooden plane is a joy to use. I have a few which I used
when I worked in old buildings and a couple which were my grandfather's.

I was in China last week. Much to my surprise I saw some shopfitters
using wooden planes!

They seemed to have metal plates on the sole, so not pure wood.

Andy

Interesting. When I was a boy the chinese used bamboo scaffolding on quite
big buildings. I don't suppose they still do.

They do actually.

A wooden plane is lighter than a metal one, so easier to carry in a
toolbag and less tiring to use if you use it much.

On Saturday, 1 October 2016 10:28:57 UTC+1, TimW wrote:
On 30/09/16 21:55, Vir Campestris wrote:
On 15/09/2016 21:43, TimW wrote:
Wonderful! A wooden plane is a joy to use. I have a few which I used
when I worked in old buildings and a couple which were my grandfather's.

I was in China last week. Much to my surprise I saw some shopfitters
using wooden planes!

They seemed to have metal plates on the sole, so not pure wood.

Andy

Interesting. When I was a boy the chinese used bamboo scaffolding on
quite big buildings. I don't suppose they still do.

A wooden plane is lighter than a metal one, so easier to carry in a
toolbag and less tiring to use if you use it much.

OTOH it is alot larger than a small metal one used for finishing after and electrical plane has left ripples

The wooden jack i used could fit a door a lot quicker than an electrical one if you allow for the time messing with cables.

If you come across one ina car boot for a couple of quid consider investing in it. Tap the toe to release the wedge and tap the wedge with a wooden stick to fit the blade back. Place the iron close to the moth so that fitting the wedge brings it near flush then tap the top of the iron to set the depth and the angle.

It is easy enough to do once you get the hang of it.

On 01/10/2016 10:28, TimW wrote:
Interesting. When I was a boy the chinese used bamboo scaffolding on
quite big buildings. I don't suppose they still do.

They do.

But the scary one was the guy weeding the flyover over a motorway. On
the outside of the railings...

Andy