The sealant where the wall tiles meet the worktop behind the kitchen
sink is gunky & needs replacing again. I guess the big problem here
is that the area tends to attract splashed water all the time.

Any tips for getting the best results out of this? The main thing I'm
thinking of it planning to apply it just before leaving the house for
a few days so it can dry without getting splashed.

Adam Funk wrote in news:resi9dxn92.ln2
@news.ducksburg.com:

The sealant where the wall tiles meet the worktop behind the kitchen
sink is gunky & needs replacing again. I guess the big problem here
is that the area tends to attract splashed water all the time.

Any tips for getting the best results out of this? The main thing I'm
thinking of it planning to apply it just before leaving the house for
a few days so it can dry without getting splashed.


Had you used cheap sealant - or do you never give it a wipe with bleach?
Wiping with a scourer is bad as it leaves scratches that breed mould. It
really should last for ages.

Adam Funk Wrote in message:
The sealant where the wall tiles meet the worktop behind the kitchen
sink is gunky & needs replacing again. I guess the big problem here
is that the area tends to attract splashed water all the time.

Any tips for getting the best results out of this? The main thing I'm
thinking of it planning to apply it just before leaving the house for
a few days so it can dry without getting splashed.


Degrease thoroughly (meths).
Use a fugi or similar to shape the bead (avoid the wet finger)
Don't try for too small a bead in such a location.
Maybe fill the sink w water (and leave for 24 hrs/overnight) to
allow for any deflection that will pull at the bead when in
use.
Besides "ordinary" silicone, I've had some good results in
challenging situations with MS polymer adhesive/Sealants -
specifically Stixall (Toolstation amongst others)

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 2016-08-31, jim wrote:

Adam Funk Wrote in message:
The sealant where the wall tiles meet the worktop behind the kitchen
sink is gunky & needs replacing again. I guess the big problem here
is that the area tends to attract splashed water all the time.

Any tips for getting the best results out of this? The main thing I'm
thinking of it planning to apply it just before leaving the house for
a few days so it can dry without getting splashed.


Degrease thoroughly (meths).
Use a fugi or similar to shape the bead (avoid the wet finger)

I had to look "fugi" up, but I know not to get sealant wet before it
sets fully (I admit that I usually use a finger in a latex glove).


Don't try for too small a bead in such a location.
Maybe fill the sink w water (and leave for 24 hrs/overnight) to
allow for any deflection that will pull at the bead when in
use.
Besides "ordinary" silicone, I've had some good results in
challenging situations with MS polymer adhesive/Sealants -
specifically Stixall (Toolstation amongst others)

I'll take a look.

On Wed, 31 Aug 2016 12:42:51 +0100, Adam Funk
wrote:

The sealant where the wall tiles meet the worktop behind the kitchen
sink is gunky & needs replacing again. I guess the big problem here
is that the area tends to attract splashed water all the time.

Any tips for getting the best results out of this? The main thing I'm
thinking of it planning to apply it just before leaving the house for
a few days so it can dry without getting splashed.

Would fitting an upstand help? I don't know if it would, it's just
what I am thinking of doing to mine.




--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%

"Adam Funk" wrote in message
...
The sealant where the wall tiles meet the worktop behind the kitchen
sink is gunky & needs replacing again. I guess the big problem here
is that the area tends to attract splashed water all the time.

Any tips for getting the best results out of this? The main thing I'm
thinking of it planning to apply it just before leaving the house for
a few days so it can dry without getting splashed.

I have stuck a plastic corner-moulding strip to the wall behind the sink, so
that it overlaps the sink. Any splashes run into the sink and not the wall.
--
Dave W

Adam Funk Wrote in message:
The sealant where the wall tiles meet the worktop behind the kitchen
sink is gunky & needs replacing again. I guess the big problem here
is that the area tends to attract splashed water all the time.

Any tips for getting the best results out of this? The main thing I'm
thinking of it planning to apply it just before leaving the house for
a few days so it can dry without getting splashed.


Dow Corning 785 sealant every time.
Good for 10 years plus if applied properly.

Phil
--


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

TheChief Wrote in message:
Adam Funk Wrote in message:
The sealant where the wall tiles meet the worktop behind the kitchen
sink is gunky & needs replacing again. I guess the big problem here
is that the area tends to attract splashed water all the time.

Any tips for getting the best results out of this? The main thing I'm
thinking of it planning to apply it just before leaving the house for
a few days so it can dry without getting splashed.


Dow Corning 785 sealant every time.
Good for 10 years plus if applied properly.

Phil

"10 years plus"? Where's that from then?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

jim k Wrote in message:
TheChief Wrote in message:
Adam Funk Wrote in message:
The sealant where the wall tiles meet the worktop behind the kitchen
sink is gunky & needs replacing again. I guess the big problem here
is that the area tends to attract splashed water all the time.

Any tips for getting the best results out of this? The main thing I'm
thinking of it planning to apply it just before leaving the house for
a few days so it can dry without getting splashed.


Dow Corning 785 sealant every time.
Good for 10 years plus if applied properly.

Phil

"10 years plus"? Where's that from then?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/


From the recommendation of a plumber who did good work for my
in-laws I used 785 in a very heavily used bathroom I tiled over
10 years ago.
Only one small spot of mould in nearer 12 years now I do the maths.

Phil
--


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

TheChief Wrote in message:
jim k Wrote in message:
TheChief Wrote in message:
Adam Funk Wrote in message:
The sealant where the wall tiles meet the worktop behind the kitchen
sink is gunky & needs replacing again. I guess the big problem here
is that the area tends to attract splashed water all the time.

Any tips for getting the best results out of this? The main thing I'm
thinking of it planning to apply it just before leaving the house for
a few days so it can dry without getting splashed.


Dow Corning 785 sealant every time.
Good for 10 years plus if applied properly.

Phil

"10 years plus"? Where's that from then?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/


From the recommendation of a plumber who did good
work for my
in-laws I used 785 in a very heavily used bathroom I tiled over
10 years ago.
Only one small spot of mould in nearer 12 years now I do the maths.

Phil

Ok good, but hardly a "controlled test" in any way?

Personally having used quite a few varieties I don't believe there
can be enough difference to support the pricing of "branded"
silicones.

The fact that your install is lasting well may be/is more likely
down to other factors than one certain brand of silicone.

YMMV
Cheers
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

jim k Wrote in message:
TheChief Wrote in message:
jim k Wrote in message:
TheChief Wrote in message:
Adam Funk Wrote in message:
The sealant where the wall tiles meet the worktop behind the kitchen
sink is gunky & needs replacing again. I guess the big problem here
is that the area tends to attract splashed water all the time.

Any tips for getting the best results out of this? The main thing I'm
thinking of it planning to apply it just before leaving the house for
a few days so it can dry without getting splashed.


Dow Corning 785 sealant every time.
Good for 10 years plus if applied properly.

Phil

"10 years plus"? Where's that from then?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/


From the recommendation of a plumber who did good
work for my
in-laws I used 785 in a very heavily used bathroom I tiled over
10 years ago.
Only one small spot of mould in nearer 12 years now I do the maths.

Phil

Ok good, but hardly a "controlled test" in any way?

Personally having used quite a few varieties I don't believe there
can be enough difference to support the pricing of "branded"
silicones.

The fact that your install is lasting well may be/is more likely
down to other factors than one certain brand of silicone.

YMMV
Cheers
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/


True no control on this, but arduous use by two
children-teenagers. Also all family members use this and other
friends I have recommended.

No complaints so far.

Phil
--


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 2016-08-31, TheChief wrote:

Adam Funk Wrote in message:
The sealant where the wall tiles meet the worktop behind the kitchen
sink is gunky & needs replacing again. I guess the big problem here
is that the area tends to attract splashed water all the time.

Any tips for getting the best results out of this? The main thing I'm
thinking of it planning to apply it just before leaving the house for
a few days so it can dry without getting splashed.


Dow Corning 785 sealant every time.
Good for 10 years plus if applied properly.

I have to admit, I've always thought "kitchen & bathroom sealant"
would all be the same, so I probably use Wickes own brand. Does it
really make a difference?

On 02/09/16 12:53, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2016-08-31, TheChief wrote:

Adam Funk Wrote in message:
The sealant where the wall tiles meet the worktop behind the kitchen
sink is gunky & needs replacing again. I guess the big problem here
is that the area tends to attract splashed water all the time.

Any tips for getting the best results out of this? The main thing I'm
thinking of it planning to apply it just before leaving the house for
a few days so it can dry without getting splashed.


Dow Corning 785 sealant every time.
Good for 10 years plus if applied properly.

I have to admit, I've always thought "kitchen & bathroom sealant"
would all be the same, so I probably use Wickes own brand. Does it
really make a difference?


It may be to late to do this, but over the years I have resolutely moved
away frim sealing the tiles to the horizontal surfaces, precisely
because of these issue,.

Instead I seal the *WALL* to the horizontal surface and then tile over
that. Grout completes the joint.

Grout doesn't seem to attract mould as much and can be scrubbed clean
more easily



--
Truth welcomes investigation because truth knows investigation will lead
to converts. It is deception that uses all the other techniques.

On 2016-09-02, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

It may be to late to do this, but over the years I have resolutely moved
away frim sealing the tiles to the horizontal surfaces, precisely
because of these issue,.

Instead I seal the *WALL* to the horizontal surface and then tile over
that. Grout completes the joint.

It's too late for the current kitchen, but I have a similar issue in
the bathroom, where I recently pulled out the sealant around the
bottom & sides of the window (the stuff at the top was all "clean").

http://www.ducksburg.com/diy/2016_bathroom_window.jpg

Would you recommend applying sealant *into* the gap only, then (after
that's dry, of course), adding grout?


Grout doesn't seem to attract mould as much and can be scrubbed clean
more easily

What do you recommend for whitening old grout?

thanks

On 13/09/16 09:33, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2016-09-02, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

It may be to late to do this, but over the years I have resolutely moved
away frim sealing the tiles to the horizontal surfaces, precisely
because of these issue,.

Instead I seal the *WALL* to the horizontal surface and then tile over
that. Grout completes the joint.

It's too late for the current kitchen, but I have a similar issue in
the bathroom, where I recently pulled out the sealant around the
bottom & sides of the window (the stuff at the top was all "clean").

http://www.ducksburg.com/diy/2016_bathroom_window.jpg

Would you recommend applying sealant *into* the gap only, then (after
that's dry, of course), adding grout?

well that's not gonna be tiled is it?

Not sure that grout would actually stick that well.

In that case I'd actually use decorators caulk.

And paint over it




Grout doesn't seem to attract mould as much and can be scrubbed clean
more easily

What do you recommend for whitening old grout?

bleach.


thanks



--
"Women actually are capable of being far more than the feminists will
let them."

My main issue at this interface is that there is always some movement
between the two surfaces through expansion or vibration or loading and its
this that eventually breaks the seal as the malleability of the sealant
reduces with age
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Adam Funk" wrote in message
...
The sealant where the wall tiles meet the worktop behind the kitchen
sink is gunky & needs replacing again. I guess the big problem here
is that the area tends to attract splashed water all the time.

Any tips for getting the best results out of this? The main thing I'm
thinking of it planning to apply it just before leaving the house for
a few days so it can dry without getting splashed.

On 2016-09-01, Brian Gaff wrote:

My main issue at this interface is that there is always some movement
between the two surfaces through expansion or vibration or loading and its
this that eventually breaks the seal as the malleability of the sealant
reduces with age

Well, that's the reason to use somewhat flexible sealant rather than
inflexible grout, isn't it?

On 02/09/16 12:54, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2016-09-01, Brian Gaff wrote:

My main issue at this interface is that there is always some movement
between the two surfaces through expansion or vibration or loading and its
this that eventually breaks the seal as the malleability of the sealant
reduces with age

Well, that's the reason to use somewhat flexible sealant rather than
inflexible grout, isn't it?


Well no.

a hairline crack in the grout doesn't natter if it's *sealed behind the
tiles/grout already*.



--
€œit should be clear by now to everyone that activist environmentalism
(or environmental activism) is becoming a general ideology about humans,
about their freedom, about the relationship between the individual and
the state, and about the manipulation of people under the guise of a
'noble' idea. It is not an honest pursuit of 'sustainable development,'
a matter of elementary environmental protection, or a search for
rational mechanisms designed to achieve a healthy environment. Yet
things do occur that make you shake your head and remind yourself that
you live neither in Joseph Stalins Communist era, nor in the Orwellian
utopia of 1984.€�

Vaclav Klaus

On 2016-09-02, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 02/09/16 12:54, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2016-09-01, Brian Gaff wrote:

My main issue at this interface is that there is always some movement
between the two surfaces through expansion or vibration or loading and its
this that eventually breaks the seal as the malleability of the sealant
reduces with age

Well, that's the reason to use somewhat flexible sealant rather than
inflexible grout, isn't it?


Well no.

a hairline crack in the grout doesn't natter if it's *sealed behind the
tiles/grout already*.

Your approach sounds good & I'll file it for future reference, but it
won't work in my existing arrangement.