been offered 2 x new 3m solid oak kitchen worktops but they are
cupped across their widths....
Placed together with cups inwards, one can get a little finger
between their centres, whilst their edges are touching...

What hopes of remedying this? & how?
TIA
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Sunday, 28 August 2016 18:06:07 UTC+1, jim wrote:
been offered 2 x new 3m solid oak kitchen worktops but they are
cupped across their widths....
Placed together with cups inwards, one can get a little finger
between their centres, whilst their edges are touching...

What hopes of remedying this? & how?
TIA
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

If they are thick enough by planing them down.
If not, screwing substantial bits of wood crosswise underneath.
Or a combination of the two.

Probably not possible to completely flatten them.
The cause is that the original tree was not properly assessed when it was cut up.

On 28/08/16 18:06, jim wrote:

been offered 2 x new 3m solid oak kitchen worktops but they are
cupped across their widths....
Placed together with cups inwards, one can get a little finger
between their centres, whilst their edges are touching...

What hopes of remedying this? & how?

No real cure, but slicing into narrower pieces, and truing up the edges
gluing and then planer-thicknessing the composite should work.

tangential ok will always cup - massively - with humidity changes.

And if you bolt it to an immovable object, it will split...

TIA



--
A lie can travel halfway around the world while the truth is putting on
its shoes.

On 28/08/16 18:37, Huge wrote:
On 2016-08-28, jim k wrote:

been offered 2 x new 3m solid oak kitchen worktops but they are
cupped across their widths....
Placed together with cups inwards, one can get a little finger
between their centres, whilst their edges are touching...

What hopes of remedying this? & how?

If they're thick enough, run them through a planer/thicknesser.


and then wait for humidity to change, and they cup all over again


--
A lie can travel halfway around the world while the truth is putting on
its shoes.

On 28/08/16 18:06, jim wrote:

been offered 2 x new 3m solid oak kitchen worktops but they are
cupped across their widths....
Placed together with cups inwards, one can get a little finger
between their centres, whilst their edges are touching...

What hopes of remedying this? & how?
TIA

securely fixed to units the fixings should hold them flat and allow a
little movement if properly done, but it will be really hard to fit and
fix them if they aren't flat on the day you do it.

Correct the cupping like this:

Lay the worktop concave side up and lightly wet that side, keeping it
damp for many hours until the whole thing is flatish. If you are in the
room you can do it by wiping it over every 30 mins. If you want to do it
overnight then careful! don't overdo it but use something like damp
jcloths covered in polythene to try to keep the worktop moist.

Overnight, 8-12 hours should be enough time but you can always do it
again. Yes, I do have some experience of this.

Once flat enough get them fixed down pronto with strong fixings. I
favour screws from underneath at the rear and screws in 25mm washers
through oversized (20mm) holes in the unit carcase to allow movement at
the front. Expansion brackets are a bit flimsy but sometimes needs must.

Overnight, 8-12 hours should be enough time but you can always do it
again. Yes, I do have some experience of this.

TW

jim k wrote:
been offered 2 x new 3m solid oak kitchen worktops but they are
cupped across their widths....
Placed together with cups inwards, one can get a little finger
between their centres, whilst their edges are touching...

What hopes of remedying this? & how?
TIA

You're doooooomed! ;-)

Alternatively, rip it into 1" wide strips, turn every alternate strip over
and glue it all back together. Then run it through a planer and Bob's your
uncle.

Tim

--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

TimW Wrote in message:
On 28/08/16 18:06, jim wrote:

been offered 2 x new 3m solid oak kitchen worktops but they are
cupped across their widths....
Placed together with cups inwards, one can get a little finger
between their centres, whilst their edges are touching...

What hopes of remedying this? & how?
TIA

securely fixed to units the fixings should hold them flat and allow a
little movement if properly done, but it will be really hard to fit and
fix them if they aren't flat on the day you do it.

Correct the cupping like this:

Lay the worktop concave side up and lightly wet that side, keeping it
damp for many hours until the whole thing is flatish. If you are in the
room you can do it by wiping it over every 30 mins. If you want to do it
overnight then careful! don't overdo it but use something like damp
jcloths covered in polythene to try to keep the worktop moist.

Overnight, 8-12 hours should be enough time but you can always do it
again. Yes, I do have some experience of this.

Once flat enough get them fixed down pronto with strong fixings. I
favour screws from underneath at the rear and screws in 25mm washers
through oversized (20mm) holes in the unit carcase to allow movement at
the front. Expansion brackets are a bit flimsy but sometimes needs must.

Overnight, 8-12 hours should be enough time but you can always do it
again. Yes, I do have some experience of this.

TW

That's encouraging Tim thanks, and thanks to other responders so far.
The worktops currently have 1 coat of Danish oil on them - will
that affect the moisture absorbance method?

To clarify generally, these are the worktops made up of many 40mm
oak staves finger jointed & glued into a "solid" board 620mm
wide, 40mm thick.

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 28/08/16 19:51, jim wrote:
TimW Wrote in message:
On 28/08/16 18:06, jim wrote:

been offered 2 x new 3m solid oak kitchen worktops but they are
cupped across their widths....
Placed together with cups inwards, one can get a little finger
between their centres, whilst their edges are touching...

What hopes of remedying this? & how?
TIA

securely fixed to units the fixings should hold them flat and allow a
little movement if properly done, but it will be really hard to fit and
fix them if they aren't flat on the day you do it.

Correct the cupping like this:

Lay the worktop concave side up and lightly wet that side, keeping it
damp for many hours until the whole thing is flatish. If you are in the
room you can do it by wiping it over every 30 mins. If you want to do it
overnight then careful! don't overdo it but use something like damp
jcloths covered in polythene to try to keep the worktop moist.

Overnight, 8-12 hours should be enough time but you can always do it
again. Yes, I do have some experience of this.

Once flat enough get them fixed down pronto with strong fixings. I
favour screws from underneath at the rear and screws in 25mm washers
through oversized (20mm) holes in the unit carcase to allow movement at
the front. Expansion brackets are a bit flimsy but sometimes needs must.

Overnight, 8-12 hours should be enough time but you can always do it
again. Yes, I do have some experience of this.

TW

That's encouraging Tim thanks, and thanks to other responders so far.
The worktops currently have 1 coat of Danish oil on them - will
that affect the moisture absorbance method?

To clarify generally, these are the worktops made up of many 40mm
oak staves finger jointed
& glued into a "solid" board 620mm
wide, 40mm thick.


The oil will not make much difference.

If they are cupped from being unwrapped and left in the sun or leaned
against a damp wall they might just straighten themselves out again.

TW

On 28/08/2016 20:08, Tim+ wrote:
jim k wrote:

been offered 2 x new 3m solid oak kitchen worktops but they are
cupped across their widths....
Placed together with cups inwards, one can get a little finger
between their centres, whilst their edges are touching...

What hopes of remedying this? & how?
TIA

You're doooooomed! ;-)

Alternatively, rip it into 1" wide strips, turn every alternate strip over
and glue it all back together. Then run it through a planer and Bob's your
uncle.

Half a cm of deflection over the width of a 0.6m wide board dies not
sound excessive. One could probably get it to warp back with application
of moisture, however I expect it would be easy to simply pull it flat
when fitting with a few screws.

(remember to leave a little front to back wiggle room on the screws
since a real wood top will change width seasonally).


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Monday, August 29, 2016 at 12:49:29 AM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 28/08/2016 20:08, Tim+ wrote:
jim k wrote:

been offered 2 x new 3m solid oak kitchen worktops but they are
cupped across their widths....
Placed together with cups inwards, one can get a little finger
between their centres, whilst their edges are touching...

What hopes of remedying this? & how?
TIA

You're doooooomed! ;-)

Alternatively, rip it into 1" wide strips, turn every alternate strip over
and glue it all back together. Then run it through a planer and Bob's your
uncle.

Half a cm of deflection over the width of a 0.6m wide board dies not
sound excessive. One could probably get it to warp back with application
of moisture, however I expect it would be easy to simply pull it flat
when fitting with a few screws.

(remember to leave a little front to back wiggle room on the screws
since a real wood top will change width seasonally).


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Which all merely confirms to me the sheer lunacy of solid wood worktops for kitchens and as for 'butcher block' worktops which are no more butcher block than my arse but instead strip laminations

On 29/08/16 08:46, fred wrote:
Which all merely confirms to me the sheer lunacy of solid wood
worktops for kitchens and as for 'butcher block' worktops which are
no more butcher block than my arse but instead strip laminations


I have solid wooden worktops made of pitch pine, 2" thick.

It is brilliant - pitch pine is basically waterproof without oiling.

On 29/08/16 10:24, Tim Watts wrote:
On 29/08/16 08:46, fred wrote:
Which all merely confirms to me the sheer lunacy of solid wood
worktops for kitchens and as for 'butcher block' worktops which are
no more butcher block than my arse but instead strip laminations


I have solid wooden worktops made of pitch pine, 2" thick.

It is brilliant - pitch pine is basically waterproof without oiling.

I used block type solid oak worktops. They are fine except around a very
wet area, The sink area rotted despite being treated

That was then changed to granite. Best worktop yet for me although Coram
looks good to, but I never tried it.





--
You can get much farther with a kind word and a gun than you can with a
kind word alone.

Al Capone

On Monday, August 29, 2016 at 10:24:27 AM UTC+1, Tim Watts wrote:
On 29/08/16 08:46, fred wrote:
Which all merely confirms to me the sheer lunacy of solid wood
worktops for kitchens and as for 'butcher block' worktops which are
no more butcher block than my arse but instead strip laminations


I have solid wooden worktops made of pitch pine, 2" thick.

It is brilliant - pitch pine is basically waterproof without oiling.

Bit soft for a worktop i.m.h.o. I got a load of it some years back from an old school that was being knocked down. It smells beautiful when being machined

The chapel pews in the boarding school in which I was incarcerated were made from it and we found it very easy to mark our names on them with pencil which exercise got me thraashed one day by the masochistic dean.

On Mon, 29 Aug 2016 03:45:35 -0700 (PDT), fred
wrote:

On Monday, August 29, 2016 at 10:24:27 AM UTC+1, Tim Watts wrote:
On 29/08/16 08:46, fred wrote:
Which all merely confirms to me the sheer lunacy of solid wood
worktops for kitchens and as for 'butcher block' worktops which are
no more butcher block than my arse but instead strip laminations


I have solid wooden worktops made of pitch pine, 2" thick.

It is brilliant - pitch pine is basically waterproof without oiling.

Bit soft for a worktop i.m.h.o. I got a load of it some years back from an old school that was being knocked down. It smells beautiful when being machined

The chapel pews in the boarding school in which I was incarcerated were made from it and we found it very easy to mark our names on them with pencil which exercise got me thraashed one day by the masochistic dean.

I had a similar boarding school experience, involving a piano.




--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%

In article ,
jim k writes:
been offered 2 x new 3m solid oak kitchen worktops but they are
cupped across their widths....
Placed together with cups inwards, one can get a little finger
between their centres, whilst their edges are touching...

What hopes of remedying this? & how?

First, how/where were they stored? This might correct itself
if stored properly for a few months with even humidity and good
ventilation on both sides.

Saw a carpender work around this by using a circular saw to make
lots of regular spaced cuts in the back the full length of the
worktop and depth perhaps 2/3rds of the thickness, which made it
flexiable enough to screw down flat to some 2x1 cross timbers
across the bottom. He said there was still a risk it might crack,
but there was nothing to lose as it wasn't usable otherwise.
Note that the screw fixings must not be tight and must be able
to slide as the worktop gets wider and narrower with humidity
changes, or it will split. I have a tabletop with similar
construction and the screws use well oversized holes with mudguard
washers under the heads, and (this top not being cupped), the cross
timbers do correctly feel a bit loose.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 29/08/16 11:45, fred wrote:
On Monday, August 29, 2016 at 10:24:27 AM UTC+1, Tim Watts wrote:
On 29/08/16 08:46, fred wrote:
Which all merely confirms to me the sheer lunacy of solid wood
worktops for kitchens and as for 'butcher block' worktops which are
no more butcher block than my arse but instead strip laminations


I have solid wooden worktops made of pitch pine, 2" thick.

It is brilliant - pitch pine is basically waterproof without oiling.

Bit soft for a worktop i.m.h.o. I got a load of it some years back from an old school that was being knocked down. It smells beautiful when being machined

Not IME - it is pretty tough. Assume you treat it with reasonable
respect (no sharp metal feet).


The chapel pews in the boarding school in which I was incarcerated were made from it and we found it very easy to mark our names on them with pencil which exercise got me thraashed one day by the masochistic dean.

replying to TimW, 1nippert wrote:
Hello Tim was going to try your advice as adding weight to them doesn't seem
to achieve alot. Not wanting to sound to silly when you say concave facing up
do you mean as if I spoon was lead on a table so the sides are up off the
floor ? Thanks. Tom.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/...s-1152793-.htm

1nippert wrote:
replying to TimW, 1nippert wrote:

Not wanting to sound to silly when you say concave facing up
do you mean as if I spoon was lead on a table so the sides are up off the
floor ?

Yes, heaven forfend you sound silly.

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

On 11/10/16 14:44, 1nippert wrote:
replying to TimW, 1nippert wrote:
Hello Tim was going to try your advice as adding weight to them doesn't
seem
to achieve alot. Not wanting to sound to silly when you say concave
facing up
do you mean as if I spoon was lead on a table so the sides are up off the
floor ? Thanks. Tom.

Yes