For a Neff ceramic electric hob, I need to replace the cable from the
control switch to the largest element.

The previous cable had corroded where the right angle crimp connector
attached to the hob ring. No doubt getting hot due to a poor connection.
It had been glowing red hot before it failed open circuit.

I have cleaned up the terminal as much as I can but it is not very easy
to buy a made up cable so I have ordered the materials to make one.

The cable will be attached to the connector by crimping. I don't have
the correct tool so I will just use pliers, or my mole grips, as best I can.

Is there any reason why I should not also solder the cable to the
connector, and perhaps also solder the connector to the ring.?
(Not so easy to undo, but I can live with that.)

--
Michael Chare

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Michael Chare wrote:
For a Neff ceramic electric hob, I need to replace the cable from the
control switch to the largest element.

The previous cable had corroded where the right angle crimp connector
attached to the hob ring. No doubt getting hot due to a poor connection.
It had been glowing red hot before it failed open circuit.

I have cleaned up the terminal as much as I can but it is not very easy
to buy a made up cable so I have ordered the materials to make one.

The cable will be attached to the connector by crimping. I don't have
the correct tool so I will just use pliers, or my mole grips, as best I
can.

Is there any reason why I should not also solder the cable to the
connector, and perhaps also solder the connector to the ring.?
(Not so easy to undo, but I can live with that.)

It is vital to do a proper crimp even if you borrow the tool.
Solder will be useless at those temperatures.

On Tuesday, 2 August 2016 18:43:55 UTC+1, Michael Chare wrote:

For a Neff ceramic electric hob, I need to replace the cable from the
control switch to the largest element.

The previous cable had corroded where the right angle crimp connector
attached to the hob ring. No doubt getting hot due to a poor connection.
It had been glowing red hot before it failed open circuit.

I have cleaned up the terminal as much as I can but it is not very easy
to buy a made up cable so I have ordered the materials to make one.

The cable will be attached to the connector by crimping. I don't have
the correct tool so I will just use pliers, or my mole grips, as best I can.

iffy

Is there any reason why I should not also solder the cable to the
connector, and perhaps also solder the connector to the ring.?
(Not so easy to undo, but I can live with that.)

Solder to a wire connected to a red hot hotplate? Seriously?


NT

On 02/08/2016 18:43, Michael Chare wrote:
For a Neff ceramic electric hob, I need to replace the cable from the
control switch to the largest element.

The previous cable had corroded where the right angle crimp connector
attached to the hob ring. No doubt getting hot due to a poor connection.
It had been glowing red hot before it failed open circuit.

I have cleaned up the terminal as much as I can but it is not very easy
to buy a made up cable so I have ordered the materials to make one.

The cable will be attached to the connector by crimping. I don't have
the correct tool so I will just use pliers, or my mole grips, as best I
can.

For high current applications at high temperature, you need to make sure
the crimps are good enough to be gas tight.

Is there any reason why I should not also solder the cable to the
connector, and perhaps also solder the connector to the ring.?

Yup, the solder will remelt when the element is on!

(Not so easy to undo, but I can live with that.)



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 02/08/2016 19:55, John Rumm wrote:
On 02/08/2016 18:43, Michael Chare wrote:
For a Neff ceramic electric hob, I need to replace the cable from the
control switch to the largest element.

The previous cable had corroded where the right angle crimp connector
attached to the hob ring. No doubt getting hot due to a poor connection.
It had been glowing red hot before it failed open circuit.

I have cleaned up the terminal as much as I can but it is not very easy
to buy a made up cable so I have ordered the materials to make one.

The cable will be attached to the connector by crimping. I don't have
the correct tool so I will just use pliers, or my mole grips, as best I
can.

For high current applications at high temperature, you need to make sure
the crimps are good enough to be gas tight.


These are the crimp connectors that I have ordered:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-HIGH-...AOSwl8NVXjH R

They are very similar to the original NEFF ones.
Does anyone know of a suitable crimp tool costing no more that £12.50

Screwfix have a product, but the shape of the connector means that you
would have to use a size near the end of the tool.


--
Michael Chare

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It surely depends on the temperature of the solder melt point and the
temperature at the solder joint which is expected. I'd have also expected
special cable types here if its very very hot.
Brian

--
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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Michael Chare" wrote in message
...
For a Neff ceramic electric hob, I need to replace the cable from the
control switch to the largest element.

The previous cable had corroded where the right angle crimp connector
attached to the hob ring. No doubt getting hot due to a poor connection.
It had been glowing red hot before it failed open circuit.

I have cleaned up the terminal as much as I can but it is not very easy to
buy a made up cable so I have ordered the materials to make one.

The cable will be attached to the connector by crimping. I don't have the
correct tool so I will just use pliers, or my mole grips, as best I can.

Is there any reason why I should not also solder the cable to the
connector, and perhaps also solder the connector to the ring.?
(Not so easy to undo, but I can live with that.)

--
Michael Chare

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

In article ,
Michael Chare wrote:
On 02/08/2016 19:55, John Rumm wrote:
On 02/08/2016 18:43, Michael Chare wrote:
For a Neff ceramic electric hob, I need to replace the cable from the
control switch to the largest element.

The previous cable had corroded where the right angle crimp connector
attached to the hob ring. No doubt getting hot due to a poor
connection. It had been glowing red hot before it failed open circuit.

I have cleaned up the terminal as much as I can but it is not very
easy to buy a made up cable so I have ordered the materials to make
one.

The cable will be attached to the connector by crimping. I don't have
the correct tool so I will just use pliers, or my mole grips, as best
I can.

For high current applications at high temperature, you need to make
sure the crimps are good enough to be gas tight.


These are the crimp connectors that I have ordered:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-HIGH-...AOSwl8NVXjH R

They are very similar to the original NEFF ones. Does anyone know of a
suitable crimp tool costing no more that £12.50

Screwfix have a product, but the shape of the connector means that you
would have to use a size near the end of the tool.

Crimp tools tend to be priced according to the volume of their production.
If not many are sold, a decent one won't be cheap. And you really do need
the correct tool for the job in this case, as a badly made crimp is
useless. And those flag type crimps are one of the most difficult to find
a decent tool for.

That size terminal (1/4" spade) is common on older cars too. The tool I
have for that which produces a perfect crimp cost 70 quid. But still
doesn't do flag types properly.

-

--
*If at first you don't succeed, avoid skydiving.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

En el artículo , Michael Chare mUNDERSCOREn
escribió:

Is there any reason why I should not also solder the cable to the
connector, and perhaps also solder the connector to the ring.?

Soldering won't work at those temperatures and bodging it is iffy at the
currents involved. You're just going to replicate the original problem,
which was a poor connection.

Suggestion: take the insert out of a choc-bloc connector (i.e. remove
the plastic surround - take out the screws and poke the metal connector
out), and use that. Crimp a ferrule onto the wire end.

If you're able to find a choc-bloc insert large enough to accommodate
both the element end and the wire end overlapped, I would do that to
maximise the contact surface area.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
(")_(")

On Wednesday, August 3, 2016 at 12:06:04 PM UTC+1, Mike Tomlinson wrote:


If you're able to find a choc-bloc insert large enough to accommodate
both the element end and the wire end overlapped, I would do that to
maximise the contact surface area.


I would be concerned that repeated thermal expansion/contraction cycles would make this solution unreliable.

Could one of the techniques being discussed in the Makita NiCad/NiMh thread be adapted to spot weld the connection?

Mike

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In ,
Michael wrote:

On 02/08/2016 19:55, John Rumm wrote:

On 02/08/2016 18:43, Michael Chare wrote:

For a Neff ceramic electric hob, I need to replace the cable from the
control switch to the largest element.

The previous cable had corroded where the right angle crimp connector
attached to the hob ring. No doubt getting hot due to a poor
connection. It had been glowing red hot before it failed open circuit.

I have cleaned up the terminal as much as I can but it is not very
easy to buy a made up cable so I have ordered the materials to make
one.

The cable will be attached to the connector by crimping. I don't have
the correct tool so I will just use pliers, or my mole grips, as best
I can.

For high current applications at high temperature, you need to make
sure the crimps are good enough to be gas tight.



These are the crimp connectors that I have ordered:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-HIGH-...AOSwl8NVXjH R


They are very similar to the original NEFF ones. Does anyone know of a
suitable crimp tool costing no more that £12.50


Screwfix have a product, but the shape of the connector means that you
would have to use a size near the end of the tool.

Crimp tools tend to be priced according to the volume of their production.
If not many are sold, a decent one won't be cheap. And you really do need
the correct tool for the job in this case, as a badly made crimp is
useless. And those flag type crimps are one of the most difficult to find
a decent tool for.

That size terminal (1/4" spade) is common on older cars too. The tool I
have for that which produces a perfect crimp cost 70 quid. But still
doesn't do flag types properly.


-


Is the failure on solid or stranded wire? I'm not having
trouble on stranded up to yellow size crimps?

On 8/3/2016 12:06 PM, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artículo , Michael Chare mUNDERSCOREn
escribió:

Is there any reason why I should not also solder the cable to the
connector, and perhaps also solder the connector to the ring.?

Soldering won't work at those temperatures and bodging it is iffy at the
currents involved. You're just going to replicate the original problem,
which was a poor connection.

Suggestion: take the insert out of a choc-bloc connector (i.e. remove
the plastic surround - take out the screws and poke the metal connector
out), and use that. Crimp a ferrule onto the wire end.

If you're able to find a choc-bloc insert large enough to accommodate
both the element end and the wire end overlapped, I would do that to
maximise the contact surface area.


+1 for this and all the other comments on soldering. However, silver
soldering might be another option, as long as you have the "feel". I
assume this is silicone insulated wiring?

On Wednesday, 3 August 2016 12:49:57 UTC+1, wrote:
On Wednesday, August 3, 2016 at 12:06:04 PM UTC+1, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

If you're able to find a choc-bloc insert large enough to accommodate
both the element end and the wire end overlapped, I would do that to
maximise the contact surface area.

I would be concerned that repeated thermal expansion/contraction cycles would make this solution unreliable.

it might well do - but it might work if done up real tight. A better bet than crimping with pliers anyway.


NT

On 03/08/2016 13:08, Huge wrote:
On 2016-08-03, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artÃ*culo , Michael Chare mUNDERSCOREn
escribió:

Is there any reason why I should not also solder the cable to the
connector, and perhaps also solder the connector to the ring.?

Soldering won't work at those temperatures and bodging it is iffy at the
currents involved. You're just going to replicate the original problem,
which was a poor connection.

Suggestion: take the insert out of a choc-bloc connector (i.e. remove
the plastic surround - take out the screws and poke the metal connector
out), and use that.

BTW you can get ceramic choc-block for this. I used one to fix the failed
crimp on the immersion heater in my last house.


It needs to me something that will connect to the male terminal on the ring


--
Michael Chare

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On 8/3/2016 11:13 PM, Michael Chare wrote:
On 03/08/2016 13:08, Huge wrote:
On 2016-08-03, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artÃ*culo , Michael Chare mUNDERSCOREn
escribió:

Is there any reason why I should not also solder the cable to the
connector, and perhaps also solder the connector to the ring.?

Soldering won't work at those temperatures and bodging it is iffy at the
currents involved. You're just going to replicate the original problem,
which was a poor connection.

Suggestion: take the insert out of a choc-bloc connector (i.e. remove
the plastic surround - take out the screws and poke the metal connector
out), and use that.

BTW you can get ceramic choc-block for this. I used one to fix the failed
crimp on the immersion heater in my last house.


It needs to me something that will connect to the male terminal on the ring


Silicone insulated wire. Readily available by the metre from eBay, used
for battery powered RC cars

E.g.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOFT-SILIC...AOSwHnFVyxo u

On Tuesday, 2 August 2016 18:43:55 UTC+1, Michael Chare wrote:
For a Neff ceramic electric hob, I need to replace the cable from the
control switch to the largest element.

The previous cable had corroded where the right angle crimp connector
attached to the hob ring. No doubt getting hot due to a poor connection.
It had been glowing red hot before it failed open circuit.

I have cleaned up the terminal as much as I can but it is not very easy
to buy a made up cable so I have ordered the materials to make one.

The cable will be attached to the connector by crimping. I don't have
the correct tool so I will just use pliers, or my mole grips, as best I can.

Is there any reason why I should not also solder the cable to the
connector, and perhaps also solder the connector to the ring.?
(Not so easy to undo, but I can live with that.)

--

Can't be done. Too hot.
Alternative is brazing/silver soldering.
Neither can you use copper push on terminals,they go soft and relax again due to the heat.