Have some slats off a bed 17.5 x 67 mm.
Making a small circular outdoor table.
3 legged so it doesnt wobble.
I want to join the slats together (to each other)

I suspect to thin to use screws.
How best to join them, would glued dowels hold them together?

On Tuesday, 12 July 2016 19:11:09 UTC+1, ss wrote:

Have some slats off a bed 17.5 x 67 mm.
Making a small circular outdoor table.
3 legged so it doesnt wobble.
I want to join the slats together (to each other)

I suspect to thin to use screws.
How best to join them, would glued dowels hold them together?

Surely easier to screw them onto rails underneath, spaced out to avoid wet muck traps.


NT

On 12/07/2016 20:00, wrote:
On Tuesday, 12 July 2016 19:11:09 UTC+1, ss wrote:

Have some slats off a bed 17.5 x 67 mm.
Making a small circular outdoor table.
3 legged so it doesnt wobble.
I want to join the slats together (to each other)

I suspect to thin to use screws.
How best to join them, would glued dowels hold them together?

Surely easier to screw them onto rails underneath, spaced out to avoid wet muck traps.


NT

The rail underneath would be triangular to acommodate 3 legs which means
a lack of support at one of the points of the triangle.

Image

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psoic6bt3k.jpg

"ss" wrote in message ...
On 12/07/2016 20:00, wrote:
On Tuesday, 12 July 2016 19:11:09 UTC+1, ss wrote:

Have some slats off a bed 17.5 x 67 mm.
Making a small circular outdoor table.
3 legged so it doesnt wobble.
I want to join the slats together (to each other)

I suspect to thin to use screws.
How best to join them, would glued dowels hold them together?

Surely easier to screw them onto rails underneath, spaced out to avoid wet muck traps.


NT

The rail underneath would be triangular to acommodate 3 legs which means a lack of
support at one of the points of the triangle.

Image

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psoic6bt3k.jpg

You need gaps between the slats to both allow for expansion across the slats
given the timber is going to be permanently outdoors and so subject to changes
in humidity, and to allow water to more easily run off; thus preventing a puddle of
water settling on the surface of the table in wet weather.

Big gaps between the slats are a "design" feature of most DIY wooden outdoor
furniture. For those very reasons.

And any design will need to accommodate this requirement.


michael adams

.....

On 12/07/2016 21:16, michael adams wrote:
"ss" wrote in message ...
On 12/07/2016 20:00, wrote:
On Tuesday, 12 July 2016 19:11:09 UTC+1, ss wrote:

Have some slats off a bed 17.5 x 67 mm.
Making a small circular outdoor table.
3 legged so it doesnt wobble.
I want to join the slats together (to each other)

I suspect to thin to use screws.
How best to join them, would glued dowels hold them together?

Surely easier to screw them onto rails underneath, spaced out to avoid wet muck traps.


NT

The rail underneath would be triangular to acommodate 3 legs which means a lack of
support at one of the points of the triangle.

Image

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psoic6bt3k.jpg

You need gaps between the slats to both allow for expansion across the slats
given the timber is going to be permanently outdoors and so subject to changes
in humidity, and to allow water to more easily run off; thus preventing a puddle of
water settling on the surface of the table in wet weather.

Big gaps between the slats are a "design" feature of most DIY wooden outdoor
furniture. For those very reasons.

And any design will need to accommodate this requirement.


michael adams

....






having read the posts I think I need an outer frame to attach the slats
to and then an inner frame to attach the legs to.

ss wrote:
On 12/07/2016 21:16, michael adams wrote:
"ss" wrote in message
...
On 12/07/2016 20:00, wrote:
On Tuesday, 12 July 2016 19:11:09 UTC+1, ss wrote:

Have some slats off a bed 17.5 x 67 mm.
Making a small circular outdoor table.
3 legged so it doesnt wobble.
I want to join the slats together (to each other)

I suspect to thin to use screws.
How best to join them, would glued dowels hold them together?

Surely easier to screw them onto rails underneath, spaced out to
avoid wet muck traps.


NT

The rail underneath would be triangular to acommodate 3 legs which
means a lack of
support at one of the points of the triangle.

Image

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psoic6bt3k.jpg

You need gaps between the slats to both allow for expansion across the
slats
given the timber is going to be permanently outdoors and so subject to
changes
in humidity, and to allow water to more easily run off; thus
preventing a puddle of
water settling on the surface of the table in wet weather.

Big gaps between the slats are a "design" feature of most DIY wooden
outdoor
furniture. For those very reasons.

And any design will need to accommodate this requirement.


michael adams

....






having read the posts I think I need an outer frame to attach the slats
to and then an inner frame to attach the legs to.
Make the underframe hexagonal with a leg on alternate vertices.
Only one screw across the width of each slat with at least 10% interslat
gap for expansion.

Saturate with preservative as generally the type of low cost wood
selected for commercial indoor use will not have much rot resistance
when used outside.

On Wednesday, 13 July 2016 00:28:57 UTC+1, Bob Minchin wrote:
ss wrote:
On 12/07/2016 21:16, michael adams wrote:
"ss" wrote in message
...
On 12/07/2016 20:00, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 12 July 2016 19:11:09 UTC+1, ss wrote:


Have some slats off a bed 17.5 x 67 mm.
Making a small circular outdoor table.
3 legged so it doesnt wobble.
I want to join the slats together (to each other)

I suspect to thin to use screws.
How best to join them, would glued dowels hold them together?

Surely easier to screw them onto rails underneath, spaced out to
avoid wet muck traps.


NT

The rail underneath would be triangular to acommodate 3 legs which
means a lack of
support at one of the points of the triangle.

make it hexagonal

Image

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psoic6bt3k.jpg

nothing shows

You need gaps between the slats to both allow for expansion across the
slats
given the timber is going to be permanently outdoors and so subject to
changes
in humidity, and to allow water to more easily run off; thus
preventing a puddle of
water settling on the surface of the table in wet weather.

Big gaps between the slats are a "design" feature of most DIY wooden
outdoor
furniture. For those very reasons.

And any design will need to accommodate this requirement.

+1

having read the posts I think I need an outer frame to attach the slats
to and then an inner frame to attach the legs to.

Make the underframe hexagonal with a leg on alternate vertices.
Only one screw across the width of each slat with at least 10% interslat
gap for expansion.

+1 but wider gaps needed. Gaps that cloe right up when wet are asking for rot.

Saturate with preservative as generally the type of low cost wood
selected for commercial indoor use will not have much rot resistance
when used outside.

And make it real wood preservative, not timber care junk.


NT

On 12/07/2016 22:54, ss wrote:

having read the posts I think I need an outer frame to attach the slats
to and then an inner frame to attach the legs to.

On approach would be to make a "ring" to go round the edge...

I would get some thicker and wider timber, and cut a rebate out of one
side (table saw or router), say 3/4" across the width, and to the depth
of the thickness of the slats you have.

Then chop into 8 equal length bits and mitre the "corners" at 22.5
degrees. Join the bits into an octagon[1]. You can now fix each of your
slats into the rebate, with a small gap between each. Just fix once in
the centre at each end of the slat.

Now if you want to get posh, trace a circle round the outside edge, and
cut off the straight edges. You should then have a rigid circular table
top that is self supporting and can be fixed to you base.


[1] Depending on ho complicated you want; pocket screws, glue and
biscuits, dowels, floating tenons etc.

Something like:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPIfzyXd9Hg

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 13/07/2016 02:11, John Rumm wrote:

On approach would be to make a "ring" to go round the edge...


I couldn't begin to make that.

However, I could make a table top with three rails running at right
angles to the slats. Then I could screw the legs to the rails. I think
that would exhaust my carpentry skills.



It might be a good idea to paint it, rather than using wood preservative?

On Wednesday, 13 July 2016 07:24:25 UTC+1, GB wrote:
On 13/07/2016 02:11, John Rumm wrote:

On approach would be to make a "ring" to go round the edge...


I couldn't begin to make that.

However, I could make a table top with three rails running at right
angles to the slats. Then I could screw the legs to the rails. I think
that would exhaust my carpentry skills.

I'm not seeing how 3 parallel rails would give good support to a circular top.

On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 12:28:57 AM UTC+1, Bob Minchin wrote:
ss wrote:
On 12/07/2016 21:16, michael adams wrote:
"ss" wrote in message
...
On 12/07/2016 20:00, wrote:
On Tuesday, 12 July 2016 19:11:09 UTC+1, ss wrote:

Have some slats off a bed 17.5 x 67 mm.
Making a small circular outdoor table.
3 legged so it doesnt wobble.
I want to join the slats together (to each other)

I suspect to thin to use screws.
How best to join them, would glued dowels hold them together?

Surely easier to screw them onto rails underneath, spaced out to
avoid wet muck traps.


NT

The rail underneath would be triangular to acommodate 3 legs which
means a lack of
support at one of the points of the triangle.

Image

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psoic6bt3k.jpg

You need gaps between the slats to both allow for expansion across the
slats
given the timber is going to be permanently outdoors and so subject to
changes
in humidity, and to allow water to more easily run off; thus
preventing a puddle of
water settling on the surface of the table in wet weather.

Big gaps between the slats are a "design" feature of most DIY wooden
outdoor
furniture. For those very reasons.

And any design will need to accommodate this requirement.


michael adams

....






having read the posts I think I need an outer frame to attach the slats
to and then an inner frame to attach the legs to.
Make the underframe hexagonal with a leg on alternate vertices.
Only one screw across the width of each slat with at least 10% interslat
gap for expansion.

Saturate with preservative as generally the type of low cost wood
selected for commercial indoor use will not have much rot resistance
when used outside.

Thats a four legged table

On 13/07/2016 02:11, John Rumm wrote:
Then chop into 8 equal length bits and mitre the "corners" at 22.5
degrees. Join the bits into an octagon[1]. You can now fix each of your
slats into the rebate, with a small gap between each. Just fix once in
the centre at each end of the slat.

OK that looks dooable for me.
Would this be approx correct for a 36 innch diameter top.

Radius 18 inches equals a circumference of 118 inches,
therefore each length of the octagon would be approx 15 inches.

"fred" wrote in message
...

On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 12:28:57 AM UTC+1, Bob Minchin wrote:

Make the underframe hexagonal with a leg on alternate vertices.

Thats a four legged table

A hexagon has six sides.


michael adams

....

On 13/07/2016 09:54, michael adams wrote:
"fred" wrote in message
...

On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 12:28:57 AM UTC+1, Bob Minchin wrote:

Make the underframe hexagonal with a leg on alternate vertices.

Thats a four legged table

A hexagon has six sides.


michael adams

...


I never noticed that thanks for pointing it out, will redo my calculations.

On 13/07/2016 02:11, John Rumm wrote:

Now if you want to get posh, trace a circle round the outside edge, and
cut off the straight edges. You should then have a rigid circular table
top that is self supporting and can be fixed to you base.


[1] Depending on ho complicated you want; pocket screws, glue and
biscuits, dowels, floating tenons etc.

Something like:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPIfzyXd9Hg


He needs to go the whole hog and laminate a circular ring.

Or do what I did and find a cheap metal circular table and use the ring
it has to fix the slats and the legs. I was lucky to find one in
aluminium so its rot proof too.

John Rumm wrote:

ss wrote:

I need an outer frame to attach the slats to and then an inner
frame to attach the legs to.

Something like:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPIfzyXd9Hg

But see his more recent video for reasons to choose a different finish.

On Wednesday, 13 July 2016 09:50:33 UTC+1, ss wrote:
On 13/07/2016 02:11, John Rumm wrote:

Then chop into 8 equal length bits and mitre the "corners" at 22.5
degrees. Join the bits into an octagon[1]. You can now fix each of your
slats into the rebate, with a small gap between each. Just fix once in
the centre at each end of the slat.

OK that looks dooable for me.
Would this be approx correct for a 36 innch diameter top.

Radius 18 inches equals a circumference of 118 inches,
therefore each length of the octagon would be approx 15 inches.

Usually the frame is a bit smaller than the top itself. It looks better that way.


NT

On 13/07/2016 09:05, wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 July 2016 07:24:25 UTC+1, GB wrote:
On 13/07/2016 02:11, John Rumm wrote:

On approach would be to make a "ring" to go round the edge...


I couldn't begin to make that.

However, I could make a table top with three rails running at right
angles to the slats. Then I could screw the legs to the rails. I think
that would exhaust my carpentry skills.

I'm not seeing how 3 parallel rails would give good support to a circular top.


I think the table top will hold together okay, but I am not convinced
that it would give a firm anchorage for the legs. It obviously depends
how chunky the rails are.

On 13/07/2016 10:07, dennis@home wrote:
On 13/07/2016 02:11, John Rumm wrote:

Now if you want to get posh, trace a circle round the outside edge, and
cut off the straight edges. You should then have a rigid circular table
top that is self supporting and can be fixed to you base.


[1] Depending on ho complicated you want; pocket screws, glue and
biscuits, dowels, floating tenons etc.

Something like:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPIfzyXd9Hg


He needs to go the whole hog and laminate a circular ring.

That's another way of doing the ring that would work. Make two rings,
one from wider timber than the other. Then sandwich the narrower one on
top of the other, with a rotation such that the joins of one are mid
board on the other - that way the whole thing can be glued up and each
ring re-enforces the joints of the other (while more complicated to glue
up it makes the joinery simpler since you don't need anything other than
a butt joint at the board ends.

It also saves cutting the rebates since the top ring can be made with
the required inner radius, and the bottom one with an inner radius a
couple of inches smaller, to create the lip the slats sit on.

Or do what I did and find a cheap metal circular table and use the ring
it has to fix the slats and the legs. I was lucky to find one in
aluminium so its rot proof too.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 13/07/2016 09:50, ss wrote:
On 13/07/2016 02:11, John Rumm wrote:
Then chop into 8 equal length bits and mitre the "corners" at 22.5
degrees. Join the bits into an octagon[1]. You can now fix each of your
slats into the rebate, with a small gap between each. Just fix once in
the centre at each end of the slat.

OK that looks dooable for me.
Would this be approx correct for a 36 innch diameter top.

Sounds like it would be ideal...

Radius 18 inches equals a circumference of 118 inches,
therefore each length of the octagon would be approx 15 inches.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 10:24:11 AM UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

ss wrote:

I need an outer frame to attach the slats to and then an inner
frame to attach the legs to.

Something like:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPIfzyXd9Hg

But see his more recent video for reasons to choose a different finish.

IME, and I tried to make a cricket table, a three legged table is a royal p.i.t.a. to build. All those compound anglew where the top frame and the stretchers contact the legs. meh.

I did succeed in the end but it was no thing of beauty and it ended up where it belonged, on the bonfire..

On 13/07/2016 16:12, fred wrote:
IME, and I tried to make a cricket table, a three legged table is a royal p.i.t.a. to build. All those compound anglew where the top frame and the stretchers contact the legs. meh.

Unfortunately where it is going to sit is a bit uneven hence 3 legs
rather than 4. I will be ok with the table top but yes slightly
concerned re the legs and the angles joints etc.
I`ll work something out in the end.

On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 19:02:20 +0100, ss wrote:

Unfortunately where it is going to sit is a bit uneven hence 3 legs
rather than 4. I will be ok with the table top but yes slightly
concerned re the legs and the angles joints etc.
I`ll work something out in the end.

Maybe four feet, to make it simpler, and use simple adjustable feet, like

http://i.stack.imgur.com/BkVCl.jpg

These will also keep water from soaking into the endgrain of the legs.


Thomas Prufer

On 13/07/2016 19:39, Thomas Prufer wrote:
Maybe four feet, to make it simpler, and use simple adjustable feet, like

http://i.stack.imgur.com/BkVCl.jpg

These will also keep water from soaking into the endgrain of the legs.

Yes that could be an option, thanks for the link.

On 13/07/2016 19:02, ss wrote:
On 13/07/2016 16:12, fred wrote:
IME, and I tried to make a cricket table, a three legged table is a
royal p.i.t.a. to build. All those compound anglew where the top frame
and the stretchers contact the legs. meh.

Unfortunately where it is going to sit is a bit uneven hence 3 legs
rather than 4. I will be ok with the table top but yes slightly
concerned re the legs and the angles joints etc.
I`ll work something out in the end.

Make a pedestal instead, then just stick three feet on the base ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 13/07/2016 22:26, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/07/2016 19:02, ss wrote:
On 13/07/2016 16:12, fred wrote:
IME, and I tried to make a cricket table, a three legged table is a
royal p.i.t.a. to build. All those compound anglew where the top frame
and the stretchers contact the legs. meh.

Unfortunately where it is going to sit is a bit uneven hence 3 legs
rather than 4. I will be ok with the table top but yes slightly
concerned re the legs and the angles joints etc.
I`ll work something out in the end.

Make a pedestal instead, then just stick three feet on the base ;-)




My suggestion is to find a fairly chunky cable drum. Stick three feet on
whichever side you decide is the bottom. Varnish or paint it as
required. Throw the bed slats in the bin, or screw them to the top of
the cable drum, whichever suits better.

On Thursday, 14 July 2016 13:08:21 UTC+1, GB wrote:
On 13/07/2016 22:26, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/07/2016 19:02, ss wrote:
On 13/07/2016 16:12, fred wrote:
IME, and I tried to make a cricket table, a three legged table is a
royal p.i.t.a. to build. All those compound anglew where the top frame
and the stretchers contact the legs. meh.

Unfortunately where it is going to sit is a bit uneven hence 3 legs
rather than 4. I will be ok with the table top but yes slightly
concerned re the legs and the angles joints etc.
I`ll work something out in the end.

Make a pedestal instead, then just stick three feet on the base ;-)


My suggestion is to find a fairly chunky cable drum. Stick three feet on
whichever side you decide is the bottom. Varnish or paint it as
required. Throw the bed slats in the bin, or screw them to the top of
the cable drum, whichever suits better.

I'm not sure why folks are making such a big deal of a simple project. Just make the table!


NT