Our close-connected toilet cistern split from top to bottom down one
corner(!) recently and dumped the contents, along with the refilling
flow, onto the floor and through the ceiling to the dining room lights.

I've replaced it but have had serious problems getting a seal from the
copper tap connector to the bottom entry plastic pipe. Taking it off for
the replacement tore the fibre washer but, after replacing the washer, I
have had constant leaks up the thread of the nut. I've used some PTFE
tape around the thread and it's sealed but I would prefer a proper fix.

Anyone able to offer an ideas?

--
F

F wrote:

I've replaced it but have had serious problems getting a seal from the
copper tap connector to the bottom entry plastic pipe.
Anyone able to offer an ideas?

A lick of LSX?

In article ,
F news@nowhere wrote:
I've replaced it but have had serious problems getting a seal from the
copper tap connector to the bottom entry plastic pipe. Taking it off for
the replacement tore the fibre washer but, after replacing the washer, I
have had constant leaks up the thread of the nut. I've used some PTFE
tape around the thread and it's sealed but I would prefer a proper fix.

Anyone able to offer an ideas?

Getting a good seal on this sort of joint always seems a PITA. Best way is
a copper to plastic pipe join below it, so the connection to the cistern
is plastic to plastic.

Basically IMHO copper tap connectors rely on going onto a metal thread so
they can be tightened till they groan. ;-)

--
*I never drink anything stronger than gin before breakfast *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 07/07/2016 14:23, F wrote:
Our close-connected toilet cistern split from top to bottom down one
corner(!) recently and dumped the contents, along with the refilling
flow, onto the floor and through the ceiling to the dining room lights.

I've replaced it but have had serious problems getting a seal from the
copper tap connector to the bottom entry plastic pipe. Taking it off for
the replacement tore the fibre washer but, after replacing the washer, I
have had constant leaks up the thread of the nut. I've used some PTFE
tape around the thread and it's sealed but I would prefer a proper fix.

Anyone able to offer an ideas?


You probably already know this but ... tighten the pipe joint before you
tighten the nut that secures the valve to the cistern. This allows the
pipe ends to align correctly.

On 07/07/2016 14:23, F wrote:
Our close-connected toilet cistern split from top to bottom down one
corner(!) recently and dumped the contents, along with the refilling
flow, onto the floor and through the ceiling to the dining room lights.

I've replaced it but have had serious problems getting a seal from the
copper tap connector to the bottom entry plastic pipe. Taking it off for
the replacement tore the fibre washer but, after replacing the washer, I
have had constant leaks up the thread of the nut. I've used some PTFE
tape around the thread and it's sealed but I would prefer a proper fix.

Anyone able to offer an ideas?


Yes. Replace the fill valve with one which has a metal shank, such as:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum...k+Valve/p32359

--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 7/7/2016 2:58 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
F news@nowhere wrote:
I've replaced it but have had serious problems getting a seal from the
copper tap connector to the bottom entry plastic pipe. Taking it off for
the replacement tore the fibre washer but, after replacing the washer, I
have had constant leaks up the thread of the nut. I've used some PTFE
tape around the thread and it's sealed but I would prefer a proper fix.

Anyone able to offer an ideas?

Getting a good seal on this sort of joint always seems a PITA. Best way is
a copper to plastic pipe join below it, so the connection to the cistern
is plastic to plastic.

Basically IMHO copper tap connectors rely on going onto a metal thread so
they can be tightened till they groan. ;-)

+1.

Consider putting in a push-fit tap connector like this.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfi...ack-of-2/85257

You can also get them with service valves, although screwfix aren't
listing the ones I just used which have nice knurled tap knobs, and a
plastic female threaded portion. They came with a tap set and otherwise
look rather like JG Speedfit, but the speedfit ones need a screwdriver
and have a metal female thread, which I always think is a bit more
brutal going on to a cistern type fitting.

Or a squirt of gooey sealant should sort most things out, provided the
threads are not completely knackered. I've lent mine out at the moment
and can't remember the name, but it looks a bit like this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vitcas-PTF...evix EH6DWAMw

Loctite 253 or 577 are probably OK too.

On 07/07/2016 14:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Basically IMHO copper tap connectors rely on going onto a metal thread so
they can be tightened till they groan. ;-)

And that was one of the problems! The last slight turn to get the groan
was rotating the fill assembly so that it fouled the cistern wall. It
took for ever to keep things aligned.

--
F

On 07/07/2016 15:50, wrote:
On 07/07/2016 14:23, F wrote:
Our close-connected toilet cistern split from top to bottom down one
corner(!) recently and dumped the contents, along with the refilling
flow, onto the floor and through the ceiling to the dining room lights.

I've replaced it but have had serious problems getting a seal from the
copper tap connector to the bottom entry plastic pipe. Taking it off for
the replacement tore the fibre washer but, after replacing the washer, I
have had constant leaks up the thread of the nut. I've used some PTFE
tape around the thread and it's sealed but I would prefer a proper fix.

Anyone able to offer an ideas?


You probably already know this but ... tighten the pipe joint before you
tighten the nut that secures the valve to the cistern. This allows the
pipe ends to align correctly.

I didn't know that. I was tightening the valve/cistern nut first to try
to avoid the valve assembly rotating as I tightened the pipe joint...

--
F

On 07/07/2016 15:53, Roger Mills wrote:
On 07/07/2016 14:23, F wrote:
Our close-connected toilet cistern split from top to bottom down one
corner(!) recently and dumped the contents, along with the refilling
flow, onto the floor and through the ceiling to the dining room lights.

I've replaced it but have had serious problems getting a seal from the
copper tap connector to the bottom entry plastic pipe. Taking it off for
the replacement tore the fibre washer but, after replacing the washer, I
have had constant leaks up the thread of the nut. I've used some PTFE
tape around the thread and it's sealed but I would prefer a proper fix.

Anyone able to offer an ideas?


Yes. Replace the fill valve with one which has a metal shank, such as:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum...k+Valve/p32359

That looks interesting! Is the diaphragm the same design as those used
in the Siamp? I ask because I have a small stock for the Siamp!

If they're not, are they easily available? The Siamps seem to fail
fairly regularly.

--
F

Roger Mills wrote in
:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum...ngs/sd2835/Flu
idmaster+1%2F2%22+Brass+Shank+Valve/p32359

Are you sure that it is the thread leaking and not the cistern to connector
joint which is more likely to leak.

On 07/07/2016 17:16, F wrote:
On 07/07/2016 15:50, wrote:
On 07/07/2016 14:23, F wrote:
Our close-connected toilet cistern split from top to bottom down one
corner(!) recently and dumped the contents, along with the refilling
flow, onto the floor and through the ceiling to the dining room lights.

I've replaced it but have had serious problems getting a seal from the
copper tap connector to the bottom entry plastic pipe. Taking it off for
the replacement tore the fibre washer but, after replacing the washer, I
have had constant leaks up the thread of the nut. I've used some PTFE
tape around the thread and it's sealed but I would prefer a proper fix.

Anyone able to offer an ideas?


You probably already know this but ... tighten the pipe joint before you
tighten the nut that secures the valve to the cistern. This allows the
pipe ends to align correctly.

I didn't know that. I was tightening the valve/cistern nut first to try
to avoid the valve assembly rotating as I tightened the pipe joint...


Unless you've damaged the thread in the earlier attempts I'm (fairly)
confident that tightening the pipe connector first will solve your problem.

On 07/07/2016 17:21, DerbyBorn wrote:
Roger Mills wrote in
:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum...ngs/sd2835/Flu
idmaster+1%2F2%22+Brass+Shank+Valve/p32359

Are you sure that it is the thread leaking and not the cistern to connector
joint which is more likely to leak.

It was leaking from the thread immediately above the nut rather than
from the bottom.

--
F

On 7/7/2016 5:16 PM, F wrote:
On 07/07/2016 15:50, wrote:
On 07/07/2016 14:23, F wrote:
Our close-connected toilet cistern split from top to bottom down one
corner(!) recently and dumped the contents, along with the refilling
flow, onto the floor and through the ceiling to the dining room lights.

I've replaced it but have had serious problems getting a seal from the
copper tap connector to the bottom entry plastic pipe. Taking it off for
the replacement tore the fibre washer but, after replacing the washer, I
have had constant leaks up the thread of the nut. I've used some PTFE
tape around the thread and it's sealed but I would prefer a proper fix.

Anyone able to offer an ideas?


You probably already know this but ... tighten the pipe joint before you
tighten the nut that secures the valve to the cistern. This allows the
pipe ends to align correctly.

I didn't know that. I was tightening the valve/cistern nut first to try
to avoid the valve assembly rotating as I tightened the pipe joint...

That seems the intuitive thing to do, until you have done a few of them!
The nice thing about using a pushfit connection to the copper is that
you can rotate that for alignment without undoing anything.

The metal shanked valve suggested elsewhere is also good.

On 07/07/2016 14:35, Andy Burns wrote:
F wrote:

I've replaced it but have had serious problems getting a seal from the
copper tap connector to the bottom entry plastic pipe.
Anyone able to offer an ideas?

A lick of LSX?

Is that the 'modern' Boss White? I have Boss White in stock...

--
F

F wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

A lick of LSX?

Is that the 'modern' Boss White? I have Boss White in stock...

Yeah, like a greasy silicone that never fully sets.

http://screwfix.com/p/lsx/23614

On 07/07/2016 17:18, F wrote:
On 07/07/2016 15:53, Roger Mills wrote:
On 07/07/2016 14:23, F wrote:
Our close-connected toilet cistern split from top to bottom down one
corner(!) recently and dumped the contents, along with the refilling
flow, onto the floor and through the ceiling to the dining room lights.

I've replaced it but have had serious problems getting a seal from the
copper tap connector to the bottom entry plastic pipe. Taking it off for
the replacement tore the fibre washer but, after replacing the washer, I
have had constant leaks up the thread of the nut. I've used some PTFE
tape around the thread and it's sealed but I would prefer a proper fix.

Anyone able to offer an ideas?


Yes. Replace the fill valve with one which has a metal shank, such as:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum...k+Valve/p32359


That looks interesting! Is the diaphragm the same design as those used
in the Siamp? I ask because I have a small stock for the Siamp!

If they're not, are they easily available? The Siamps seem to fail
fairly regularly.


Sorry - don't know about spare parts - not needed any as yet. But I
wouldn't expect internal parts to be interchangeable between makes of valve.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On Thursday, 7 July 2016 17:14:58 UTC+1, F wrote:
And that was one of the problems! The last slight turn to get the groan
was rotating the fill assembly so that it fouled the cistern wall. It
took for ever to keep things aligned.

A scrap piece of wood between the fill assembly and the cistern wall to brace the joint whilst tightening might help.

Owain

En el artículo , F
news@nowhere.? escribió:

Anyone able to offer an ideas?

Try an O-ring instead of the fibre washer. If you get one of those kits
of multiple sizes, you'll find one that fits. You only need hand tight
plus a quarter turn.

The rubber of the ring gives more easily and forms a seal with the
plastic threaded bottom of the cistern inlet valve.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
(")_(")

On 07/07/2016 14:23, F wrote:
Our close-connected toilet cistern split from top to bottom down one
corner(!) recently and dumped the contents, along with the refilling
flow, onto the floor and through the ceiling to the dining room lights.

I've replaced it but have had serious problems getting a seal from the
copper tap connector to the bottom entry plastic pipe. Taking it off for
the replacement tore the fibre washer but, after replacing the washer, I
have had constant leaks up the thread of the nut. I've used some PTFE
tape around the thread and it's sealed but I would prefer a proper fix.

Anyone able to offer an ideas?


I fit using a flexi hose which has a thick rubber washer as the seal.

see picture in link
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p249...chstr=flexi%20


--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 09/07/2016 09:26, alan_m wrote:
On 07/07/2016 14:23, F wrote:
Our close-connected toilet cistern split from top to bottom down one
corner(!) recently and dumped the contents, along with the refilling
flow, onto the floor and through the ceiling to the dining room lights.

I've replaced it but have had serious problems getting a seal from the
copper tap connector to the bottom entry plastic pipe. Taking it off for
the replacement tore the fibre washer but, after replacing the washer, I
have had constant leaks up the thread of the nut. I've used some PTFE
tape around the thread and it's sealed but I would prefer a proper fix.

Anyone able to offer an ideas?


I fit using a flexi hose which has a thick rubber washer as the seal.

see picture in link
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p249...chstr=flexi%20

Thanks, and that's what I've gone with. That and one of the Fluidmaster
assemblies. Just looking to get a round tuit now.

--
F