See http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/crimped_ferrules.jpg

What is the correct name for them and where do I find them? I've
googled and amazoned, but there are so many different kinds I can't
see the wood for the trees.

I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.

The above cable is off an old Woolworths extension lead.

MM

"MM" wrote in message ...

See http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/crimped_ferrules.jpg

What is the correct name for them and where do I find them? I've
googled and amazoned, but there are so many different kinds I can't
see the wood for the trees.

I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.

The above cable is off an old Woolworths extension lead.

MM

"Bootlace Ferrules"

I prefer the ones that have a short plastic sleeve incorporated to act as
funnel and ensure no free strands escape.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cable-Cord... kQY_IAVL7gTuA

or the uninsulated ones:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100x-Unins... Dvci_ZNiYGz2A


Andrew

On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 08:51:38 +0100, "Andrew Mawson"
wrote:

"MM" wrote in message ...

See http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/crimped_ferrules.jpg

What is the correct name for them and where do I find them? I've
googled and amazoned, but there are so many different kinds I can't
see the wood for the trees.

I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.

The above cable is off an old Woolworths extension lead.

MM

"Bootlace Ferrules"

I prefer the ones that have a short plastic sleeve incorporated to act as
funnel and ensure no free strands escape.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cable-Cord... kQY_IAVL7gTuA

Those are nothing like the ones on the ends of the piece of cable I
removed from the extension block. The ones shown in my pic are very
short. Only about 7mm long.


or the uninsulated ones:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100x-Unins... Dvci_ZNiYGz2A

They also appear to be much longer than on the cables in my pic.
(Maybe the short kind in my pic are no longer available/used;
Woolworths has been defunct in Britain for several years now.)

MM

MM wrote:

See http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/crimped_ferrules.jpg
What is the correct name for them

uninsulated bootlace ferrules

and where do I find them?

rs, cpc, farnell, rapid etc

I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.

Not a good idea as the solder is soft and creeps under the pressure of
the screw terminal, loosening over time.

On Thursday, 2 June 2016 08:52:35 UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:
MM wrote:

I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.

Not a good idea as the solder is soft and creeps under the pressure of
the screw terminal, loosening over time.

+1


NT

On 02/06/16 08:52, Andy Burns wrote:
MM wrote:

See http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/crimped_ferrules.jpg
What is the correct name for them

uninsulated bootlace ferrules

and where do I find them?

rs, cpc, farnell, rapid etc

I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.

Not a good idea as the solder is soft and creeps under the pressure of
the screw terminal, loosening over time.

Then you didn't tighten it enough to start with.

Think of the solder as a mastic to fill the gaps between the copper, but
the copper makes the joint



--
Truth welcomes investigation because truth knows investigation will lead
to converts. It is deception that uses all the other techniques.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 02/06/16 08:52, Andy Burns wrote:
MM wrote:

See http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/crimped_ferrules.jpg
What is the correct name for them

uninsulated bootlace ferrules

and where do I find them?

rs, cpc, farnell, rapid etc

I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.

Not a good idea as the solder is soft and creeps under the pressure of
the screw terminal, loosening over time.

Then you didn't tighten it enough to start with.

Think of the solder as a mastic to fill the gaps between the copper,
but the copper makes the joint



+1

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Then you didn't tighten it enough to start with.

Think of the solder as a mastic to fill the gaps between the copper, but
the copper makes the joint

The other reason not to tin is it provides a fatigue point at the exit from
the solder lump. That's not much of a problem in household wiring, but it
is in something that sees vibration - like a power tool or a car.

Theo

On 02/06/16 11:35, Theo wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Then you didn't tighten it enough to start with.

Think of the solder as a mastic to fill the gaps between the copper, but
the copper makes the joint

The other reason not to tin is it provides a fatigue point at the exit from
the solder lump. That's not much of a problem in household wiring, but it
is in something that sees vibration - like a power tool or a car.


Absolutely.

First rule of Being an Apperntice in avionics.

No Soldered stranded wire joint shall be mechanically unsupported except
for the solder.

Solid was half allowed.

Crimps were ultimately preferred - the data on crimping came in around
that time (1969) where it was found to show a lower failure rate.

The Proper Way was to solder then use a sleeve as local support and then
tie the wire down elsewhere.

Crimps with integral sleeves came in a bit later on, and were a lot
faster in production.

Heatshrink was even later

Theo



--
How fortunate for governments that the people they administer don't think.

Adolf Hitler

Jethro_uk wrote:
On Thu, 02 Jun 2016 11:58:42 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:


On 02/06/16 11:35, Theo wrote:

[quoted text muted]

Absolutely.

First rule of Being an Apperntice in avionics.

A couple of years ago I was at Cosford Air Museum. They had just taken
delivery of a Nimrod, and had removed the wings to transport it. It was
plonked outside one of the hangers.

The removed wings exposed the spaghetti of wiring - all cut. It was
heartbreaking in a way.

Hundreds of wires - all white. I presume that was some part of making it
difficult to easily reverse engineer.

It was interesting to think that at sometime someone would have known
what each wire did, and where it went.

Each end of the wire would have been numbered. normal practice is
only one colour of wire for a given current/voltage rating.

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher writes:
On 02/06/16 08:52, Andy Burns wrote:
MM wrote:

See http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/crimped_ferrules.jpg
What is the correct name for them

uninsulated bootlace ferrules

and where do I find them?

rs, cpc, farnell, rapid etc

I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.

Not a good idea as the solder is soft and creeps under the pressure of
the screw terminal, loosening over time.

Then you didn't tighten it enough to start with.

Think of the solder as a mastic to fill the gaps between the copper, but
the copper makes the joint

It's never permitted to do this because the solder creeps over time
under pressure and contact pressure is lost, causing the connection
to then overheat.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 03/06/16 20:56, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher writes:
On 02/06/16 08:52, Andy Burns wrote:
MM wrote:

See http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/crimped_ferrules.jpg
What is the correct name for them

uninsulated bootlace ferrules

and where do I find them?

rs, cpc, farnell, rapid etc

I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.

Not a good idea as the solder is soft and creeps under the pressure of
the screw terminal, loosening over time.

Then you didn't tighten it enough to start with.

Think of the solder as a mastic to fill the gaps between the copper, but
the copper makes the joint

It's never permitted to do this because the solder creeps over time
under pressure and contact pressure is lost, causing the connection
to then overheat.

You dont listen or think, do you?


--
"What do you think about Gay Marriage?"
"I don't."
"Don't what?"
"Think about Gay Marriage."

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher writes:
On 03/06/16 20:56, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher writes:
On 02/06/16 08:52, Andy Burns wrote:
MM wrote:

See http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/crimped_ferrules.jpg
What is the correct name for them

uninsulated bootlace ferrules

and where do I find them?

rs, cpc, farnell, rapid etc

I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.

Not a good idea as the solder is soft and creeps under the pressure of
the screw terminal, loosening over time.

Then you didn't tighten it enough to start with.

Think of the solder as a mastic to fill the gaps between the copper, but
the copper makes the joint

It's never permitted to do this because the solder creeps over time
under pressure and contact pressure is lost, causing the connection
to then overheat.

You dont listen or think, do you?

I corrected your misinformation, particularly as
it is well known to be dangerous.
I see lots of people have done that too.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

En el artículo , Andy Burns
escribió:

Not a good idea as the solder is soft and creeps under the pressure of
the screw terminal, loosening over time.

Resulting in this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fjc3xol5ey...00015.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3lcfzoe1lb...00018.JPG?dl=0

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
(")_(")

On 02/06/2016 09:57, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artículo , Andy Burns
escribió:

Not a good idea as the solder is soft and creeps under the pressure of
the screw terminal, loosening over time.

Resulting in this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fjc3xol5ey...00015.JPG?dl=0

The neutral is too long, the earth is too short.
I always try and make it so the earth is the last thing that can pull
out if the cord grip fails to do its job.

On 02/06/16 11:34, pamela wrote:
On 09:57 2 Jun 2016, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

En el artÃ*culo , Andy Burns
escribió:

Not a good idea as the solder is soft and creeps under the
pressure of the screw terminal, loosening over time.

Resulting in this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fjc3xol5ey...00015.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3lcfzoe1lb...00018.JPG?dl=0

Gulp!

You can clearly see the live hasn't been screwed down hard enough
compared to the others


--
How fortunate for governments that the people they administer don't think.

Adolf Hitler

En el artículo , The Natural Philosopher
escribió:

You can clearly see the live hasn't been screwed down hard enough
compared to the others

Actually, I would say it's a very clear illustration of how the solder
has crept under the neutral and earth screws.

Another problem with soldering tails is that it makes it very easy to
pinch them off by tightening the screw too much. Think of how easy it
is to pinch a bit of solder off a reel with your thumbnail. Now try
doing that with stripped copper wire.

I used to tin my wire tails; I don't any more. If it's possible to
strip a longer length of insulation back, double the stripped end over
and insert that in the plug terminal, I do that instead.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
(")_(")

On 02/06/16 12:31, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artÃ*culo , The Natural Philosopher
escribió:

You can clearly see the live hasn't been screwed down hard enough
compared to the others

Actually, I would say it's a very clear illustration of how the solder
has crept under the neutral and earth screws.


Which is why the neutral has arced, not the live, Obviously!

Dear oh dear.


Another problem with soldering tails is that it makes it very easy to
pinch them off by tightening the screw too much. Think of how easy it
is to pinch a bit of solder off a reel with your thumbnail. Now try
doing that with stripped copper wire.

Now try doing that with tinned copper wire.


I used to tin my wire tails; I don't any more. If it's possible to
strip a longer length of insulation back, double the stripped end over
and insert that in the plug terminal, I do that instead.


That's *a* way of doing things


--
€œBut what a weak barrier is truth when it stands in the way of an
hypothesis!€�

Mary Wollstonecraft

pamela Wrote in message:
On 09:57 2 Jun 2016, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

En el artículo , Andy Burns
escribió:

Not a good idea as the solder is soft and creeps under the
pressure of the screw terminal, loosening over time.

Resulting in this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fjc3xol5ey...00015.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3lcfzoe1lb...00018.JPG?dl=0

Gulp!


With terminals like those, I find that wires terminated with
bootlace ferrules can need an extra half turn after a few months.
Bare wires doubled over in the time -honored way seem to fare
best, is that a no-no now?
--

%Profound_observation%


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 02/06/2016 14:46, Graham. wrote:


With terminals like those, I find that wires terminated with
bootlace ferrules can need an extra half turn after a few months.
Bare wires doubled over in the time -honored way seem to fare
best, is that a no-no now?


No fold should be best as long as the terminal is the correct size for
the wire.

On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 17:02:25 +0100, dennis@home
wrote:

On 02/06/2016 14:46, Graham. wrote:


With terminals like those, I find that wires terminated with
bootlace ferrules can need an extra half turn after a few months.
Bare wires doubled over in the time -honored way seem to fare
best, is that a no-no now?


No fold should be best as long as the terminal is the correct size for
the wire.


So what is the correct size wire for a BS1363 rewireable plug?
Even with wires as thick as these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fjc3xol5ey...00015.JPG?dl=0
I find folding it back on itself fills the terminal hole more fully,
and the result seems to me to be more secure.

I prefer the MK type plugs with knurled screws. With those I don't
fold the wires.


--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%

On 2016-06-02, Andy Burns wrote:

MM wrote:

I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.

Not a good idea as the solder is soft and creeps under the pressure of
the screw terminal, loosening over time.

ISTR that is (or used to be) common practice with speaker wires, but
they usually go in sprung rather than screwed terminals (& obviously
don't carry much current).

On 2016-06-02, MM wrote:
See http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/crimped_ferrules.jpg

What is the correct name for them and where do I find them? I've
googled and amazoned, but there are so many different kinds I can't
see the wood for the trees.

I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.

These are what you need (other suppliers available):

http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/duce...100/dp/9972099
http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/duce...100/dp/1269361
etc.

Pick the right size for the wire you've got.

You also need the proper crimp tool, e.g.:

http://uk.farnell.com/davico/dcer-51...chet/dp/209181

Don't tin stranded wires for screw terminals, the solder flows under
pressure, leaving a poor contact.


--
Ian

"Tamahome!!!" - "Miaka!!!"

Ian wrote:

You also need the proper crimp tool

If you've already got a proper tool for crimp terminals, which isn't
suitable for ferrules, you could cut the contact part off, as per

http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/b/b0/Header_Crimp.jpg

On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 09:04:23 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Ian wrote:

You also need the proper crimp tool

If you've already got a proper tool for crimp terminals, which isn't
suitable for ferrules, you could cut the contact part off, as per

http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/b/b0/Header_Crimp.jpg

Ah, the *right*-hand side of these seem to be much more like the ones
on my cable (before being crimped on).

MM

In the days when appliances did not come with a moulded plug the tinned wires you used to get was more for testing purposes and you were usually advised by the manufacturer to trim the wires down removing the tinned ends for the reasons stated earlier, however not all RTFM. The tinned wires were usually too long to fit comfortably in a plug anyway. Bare wire or ferrules are the recommended means.

Richard

On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 07:54:24 -0000 (UTC), Ian

wrote:

On 2016-06-02, MM wrote:
See http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/crimped_ferrules.jpg

What is the correct name for them and where do I find them? I've
googled and amazoned, but there are so many different kinds I can't
see the wood for the trees.

I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.

These are what you need (other suppliers available):

http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/duce...100/dp/9972099

But these look too long for the screwed post they're inserted into.
The bared ends of the wires are about 7mm in length, whereas these
uninsulated ferrules from e.g. Farnell look longer than that. Or is it
permitted to trim off any surplus length with sidecutters?

MM

MM wrote:

Ian wrote:

http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/duce...100/dp/9972099

But these look too long for the screwed post they're inserted into.
The bared ends of the wires are about 7mm in length, whereas these
uninsulated ferrules from e.g. Farnell look longer than that. Or is it
permitted to trim off any surplus length with sidecutters?

Yes, they're only tin-plated copper, so cut easily.

On 02/06/2016 08:42, MM wrote:
See http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/crimped_ferrules.jpg

What is the correct name for them and where do I find them? I've
googled and amazoned, but there are so many different kinds I can't
see the wood for the trees.

I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.

The above cable is off an old Woolworths extension lead.

MM

Something from here would probably fit...

http://uk.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/sto...2&pf=110338670

And I'd agree with not tinning the wires. I was taught to - if there's
room - double the earth wire back on itself so in the event of a
pull-out it would be the last to be disconnected. Can't say I bother
nowadays.

Cheers
--
Syd