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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Riverside Cottage
As an antidote to the Brexit discussion I intend to beg comment on a
series of queries related to an about to start extension/major refurb. of an existing timber frame chalet bungalow. Not having Tim Ws stamina the bulk of the structural/roofing work will be done by a local building company. Q1. The existing windows are narrow spacing double glazed in brown painted pine. Two or three panels are blown and need renewing anyway. My first thought was to strip out the glass and strip off the paint. Re-paint in white and fit modern argon filled panels. However, the glazing rebate is much too narrow to use 4:16:4 units. Six new windows are required for the alterations so current thinking is to go for new throughout. First estimate for 12 windows and two doors came in at 18K fitted. This afternoon was spent trawling round the local showrooms. I'm not much wiser:-( The much vaunted narrow mullion aluminium does not seem to exist. By the time they have put in the plastic thermal break and endless folds for strength and appearance they are as fat as uPVC. Also, what happened to window hinges and stays? They all seem to use a fancy sliding meccano mechanism which relies on a tiny strip of plastic in a groove to retain the window against a stiff breeze. And why do doors supplied by such outlets have such flimsy threshold strips? Also, also my wife who is somewhat challenged vertically came back from a jaunt to the Cotswolds determined that fanlights are out! (hard to clean and hard to reach). The new *in* is top hung bottom latched full length openers. Thoughts please. Does uPVC really stay clean and shiny for 20 years? Are these fancy sliding fixings reliable? Can a bottom opening style meet the fire escape regulations. -- Tim Lamb |
#2
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Riverside Cottage
On 18/05/16 21:24, Tim Lamb wrote:
As an antidote to the Brexit discussion I intend to beg comment on a series of queries related to an about to start extension/major refurb. of an existing timber frame chalet bungalow. Not having Tim Ws stamina the bulk of the structural/roofing work will be done by a local building company. Actually - if you can afford and get good people, subcontract. It gets depressing as it drags out. Our slowness was due to lack of dosh. That problem has reduced and I have happily got some help on certain areas, whilst being lucky enough to maintain the original design ideas. Q1. The existing windows are narrow spacing double glazed in brown painted pine. Two or three panels are blown and need renewing anyway. My first thought was to strip out the glass and strip off the paint. Re-paint in white and fit modern argon filled panels. However, the glazing rebate is much too narrow to use 4:16:4 units. Six new windows are required for the alterations so current thinking is to go for new throughout. First estimate for 12 windows and two doors came in at 18K fitted. This afternoon was spent trawling round the local showrooms. I'm not much wiser:-( The much vaunted narrow mullion aluminium does not seem to exist. By the time they have put in the plastic thermal break and endless folds for strength and appearance they are as fat as uPVC. If you look at windowsanddoors.co.uk you will get an idea of the cost of the units - at least for uPVC Also, what happened to window hinges and stays? They all seem to use a fancy sliding meccano mechanism which relies on a tiny strip of plastic in a groove to retain the window against a stiff breeze. I know what you mean. Not as bad as they look - and hinge bolts mitigate. I recommend you specify egress (corner swinging) hinges - they always seem to default to "easy clean" which I hate. And why do doors supplied by such outlets have such flimsy threshold strips? You can get uPVC with a low profile ali threshold - I have one. And you can bond or seal that down whereby it is pretty solid. Also, also my wife who is somewhat challenged vertically came back from a jaunt to the Cotswolds determined that fanlights are out! (hard to clean and hard to reach). The new *in* is top hung bottom latched full length openers. Thoughts please. Does uPVC really stay clean and shiny for 20 years? Non white might. Are these fancy sliding fixings reliable? Yes, IME. Can a bottom opening style meet the fire escape regulations. Pass. Why not go for full height casement with egress hinges? (and egress hinges often have an "easy clean" mode). |
#3
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Riverside Cottage
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#4
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Riverside Cottage
In message
Tim Lamb wrote: [snip] Have a look for an approved fabricator for Schuco or Reynaers systems. IIRC they both offer slim sections. Top hung should be fine, but may require restrictors to combat the danger of a fall hazard. Have you considered tilt and turn? Friction stays on higher end systems are better engineered. I agree many resemble meccano, and appear flimsy. Personally, I detest uPVC. It creaks and groans in hot weather, and whilst staying white, the gloss does degrade. Good aluminium is robust, and you have the options of a huge range of powder coat colours if required. HTH -- Jim White Wimbledon London England |
#5
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Riverside Cottage
"Jim White" wrote in message ... In message Tim Lamb wrote: [snip] Personally, I detest uPVC. It creaks and groans in hot weather, and whilst staying white, the gloss does degrade. Good aluminium is robust, and you have the options of a huge range of powder coat colours if required. HTH I too detest uPVC, because it makes old houses look like dolls houses. I am very pleased with the aluminium double-glazing I've had in my 1901 terraced house for 25 years - it is unobtrusive. Another thing I was careful to avoid is non-flat glass, which I often see. It doesn't affect the view through it, but the reflections off it make it look like plastic windows on a dolls house! -- Dave W |
#6
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Riverside Cottage
In message , Dave W
writes Another thing I was careful to avoid is non-flat glass, which I often see. It doesn't affect the view through it, but the reflections off it make it look like plastic windows on a dolls house! Tangent alert! Our windows are all still original Victorian sash, and many panes (with flaws) are probably original, too. One bedroom window, at the front, is odd. Traditional sash, with four panes of glass, yet one of the four always looks as though it is not there, from outside. It just looks dark, and you would think the whole pane was missing. Looking out, from the bedroom, it looks exactly like the other three. No idea why. -- Graeme |
#7
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Riverside Cottage
"News" wrote in message
... In message , Dave W writes Another thing I was careful to avoid is non-flat glass, which I often see. It doesn't affect the view through it, but the reflections off it make it look like plastic windows on a dolls house! Tangent alert! Our windows are all still original Victorian sash, and many panes (with flaws) are probably original, too. One bedroom window, at the front, is odd. Traditional sash, with four panes of glass, yet one of the four always looks as though it is not there, from outside. It just looks dark, and you would think the whole pane was missing. Looking out, from the bedroom, it looks exactly like the other three. No idea why. Interesting. Perhaps it has a non-reflective coating on it, sometimes used on swish buildings and picture frames. -- Dave W |
#8
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Riverside Cottage
In message , Dave W
writes "News" wrote in message ... Tangent alert! Our windows are all still original Victorian sash, and many panes (with flaws) are probably original, too. One bedroom window, at the front, is odd. Traditional sash, with four panes of glass, yet one of the four always looks as though it is not there, from outside. It just looks dark, and you would think the whole pane was missing. Looking out, from the bedroom, it looks exactly like the other three. No idea why. Interesting. Perhaps it has a non-reflective coating on it, sometimes used on swish buildings and picture frames. Possible, I suppose, but why? Why would anyone use anything but plain, ordinary domestic glass? I don't know. First time I noticed it from outside, I ran upstairs, thinking the pane had been broken, convinced I would find a golf ball or similar in the bedroom. -- Graeme |
#9
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Riverside Cottage
"News" wrote in message ... In message , Dave W writes Another thing I was careful to avoid is non-flat glass, which I often see. It doesn't affect the view through it, but the reflections off it make it look like plastic windows on a dolls house! Tangent alert! I'd have you publicly flogged if you hadn't enjoyed that so much the last time. Our windows are all still original Victorian sash, and many panes (with flaws) are probably original, too. One bedroom window, at the front, is odd. Traditional sash, with four panes of glass, yet one of the four always looks as though it is not there, from outside. It just looks dark, and you would think the whole pane was missing. Looking out, from the bedroom, it looks exactly like the other three. No idea why. Presumably the outer surface is different because it got broken and replaced at some time. |
#10
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Riverside Cottage
In message , Rod Speed
writes "News" wrote in message ... Our windows are all still original Victorian sash, and many panes (with flaws) are probably original, too. One bedroom window, at the front, is odd. Traditional sash, with four panes of glass, yet one of the four always looks as though it is not there, from outside. It just looks dark, and you would think the whole pane was missing. Looking out, from the bedroom, it looks exactly like the other three. No idea why. Presumably the outer surface is different because it got broken and replaced at some time. Indeed, but why? Other panes have been replaced over time, and look the same from both inside and outside. Why just that one? Rhetorical question, really. Strange, though. -- Graeme |
#11
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Riverside Cottage
On Thursday, 19 May 2016 11:37:06 UTC+1, News wrote:
In message , Dave W writes Another thing I was careful to avoid is non-flat glass, which I often see. It doesn't affect the view through it, but the reflections off it make it look like plastic windows on a dolls house! Tangent alert! Our windows are all still original Victorian sash, and many panes (with flaws) are probably original, too. One bedroom window, at the front, is odd. Traditional sash, with four panes of glass, yet one of the four always looks as though it is not there, from outside. It just looks dark, and you would think the whole pane was missing. Looking out, from the bedroom, it looks exactly like the other three. No idea why. If it is a different/float glass it could look like that especially as the optical qualities or older glass wasn't as good as float. The only other reason I can imagine is the plane viewed from outside which would obviously change as the viewer moves. |
#12
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Riverside Cottage
In message , Jim White
writes In message Tim Lamb wrote: [snip] Have a look for an approved fabricator for Schuco or Reynaers systems. IIRC they both offer slim sections. Top hung should be fine, but may require restrictors to combat the danger of a fall hazard. Have you considered tilt and turn? Friction stays on higher end systems are better engineered. I agree many resemble meccano, and appear flimsy. Personally, I detest uPVC. It creaks and groans in hot weather, and whilst staying white, the gloss does degrade. Good aluminium is robust, and you have the options of a huge range of powder coat colours if required. Trawling the showrooms has failed to find any slim aluminium windows on display. The 18K quote was Schuco. The response has been encouraging regarding hinging and friction stays. I take the points about restrictors as we have visiting grandchildren. I think we will pursue the aluminium solution and ditch any idea of reusing the existing timber units. -- Tim Lamb |
#13
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Riverside Cottage
On 18/05/2016 21:24, Tim Lamb wrote:
As an antidote to the Brexit discussion I intend to beg comment on a series of queries related to an about to start extension/major refurb. of an existing timber frame chalet bungalow. Thoughts please. Does uPVC really stay clean and shiny for 20 years? Clean and white Yes. Shiny No. Mike |
#14
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Riverside Cottage
Tim Lamb wrote:
Also, also my wife who is somewhat challenged vertically came back from a jaunt to the Cotswolds determined that fanlights are out! (hard to clean and hard to reach). The new *in* is top hung bottom latched full length openers. Thoughts please. Does uPVC really stay clean and shiny for 20 years? Are these fancy sliding fixings reliable? Can a bottom opening style meet the fire escape regulations. Well, all my cheapy opening PVC windows are top hung and bottom latched. We have had one hinge failure in 35 years on a big 3.5H x 4W ft unit. This cost £35 to have replaced. The finish is still excellent even on the South facing units, which get full sun in summer. They are easier to meet fire escape regulations with as the access is so good. However, the opening mechanism must be childproofed to stop them committing suicide when they fall out which they try to do regularly. The locking mechanism is very flimsy, but the favoured tool for breaking in is a blow lamp, so that doesn't really come into it. Make sure the glass is fitted from the inside, this is easier to fit and more secure. |
#15
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Riverside Cottage
On Wednesday, 18 May 2016 21:24:24 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
As an antidote to the Brexit discussion I intend to beg comment on a series of queries related to an about to start extension/major refurb. of an existing timber frame chalet bungalow. Not having Tim Ws stamina the bulk of the structural/roofing work will be done by a local building company. Q1. The existing windows are narrow spacing double glazed in brown painted pine. Two or three panels are blown and need renewing anyway. My first thought was to strip out the glass and strip off the paint. Re-paint in white and fit modern argon filled panels. However, the glazing rebate is much too narrow to use 4:16:4 units. Six new windows are required for the alterations so current thinking is to go for new throughout. First estimate for 12 windows and two doors came in at 18K fitted. This afternoon was spent trawling round the local showrooms. I'm not much wiser:-( The much vaunted narrow mullion aluminium does not seem to exist. By the time they have put in the plastic thermal break and endless folds for strength and appearance they are as fat as uPVC. Why replace the existing windows? Just fix them like for like if they're misting. Thoughts please. Does uPVC really stay clean and shiny for 20 years? the gloss goes & it becomes somewhat uncleanable. If facing onto a street there's also a slight risk of cigarette burns. I'd plan on a set of windows staying for a lot longer than 20 years! With new PVC I'd go for external glazing. The advantage is that when the sealed unit seals fail (not if), they don't mist up & don't need replacing. Have you considered new durable species timber windows to match the existing? (but with deeper whatsits.) If you go for ali windows, beware of colour finishes such as powder coating. Nothing sticks well to ali, lumps come off in time. They only reliable way to colour ali is anodisation. NT |
#16
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Riverside Cottage
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#17
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Riverside Cottage
On Friday, 20 May 2016 09:40:21 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , tabbypurr writes Six new windows are required for the alterations so current thinking is to go for new throughout. First estimate for 12 windows and two doors came in at 18K fitted. This afternoon was spent trawling round the local showrooms. I'm not much wiser:-( The much vaunted narrow mullion aluminium does not seem to exist. By the time they have put in the plastic thermal break and endless folds for strength and appearance they are as fat as uPVC. Why replace the existing windows? Just fix them like for like if they're misting. Elsewhere, the architect has specified 4-20-4 argon filled. The existing window rebate is much too narrow. Also new windows will be visible on the frontage and jar with the existing. You can specify what you like, as long as it meets BR. Thoughts please. Does uPVC really stay clean and shiny for 20 years? the gloss goes & it becomes somewhat uncleanable. If facing onto a street there's also a slight risk of cigarette burns. I'd plan on a set of windows staying for a lot longer than 20 years! Isolated plot, set back from the highway. With new PVC I'd go for external glazing. The advantage is that when the sealed unit seals fail (not if), they don't mist up & don't need replacing. Please enlarge. I thought the only difference was whether the burglars could prise them out. That's the usual reason quoted for internal glazing, but imho it's a bit of a false one. External glazed windows use glazing tape, a very tough adhesive that prevents that. To get in you'd need to take the same measures required to enter through internal glazed windows. Unsealed DG mists because the inner space is exposed to the same water vapour level as indoors, but the temp is lower. Expose that space to the lower outdoor water vapour levels and it simply does not mist. External glazing does the latter, internal glazing the former. Have you considered new durable species timber windows to match the existing? (but with deeper whatsits.) Not yet. This will be out last house and I am trying to avoid predictable maintenance. hence I said durable species. If you go for ali windows, beware of colour finishes such as powder coating. Nothing sticks well to ali, lumps come off in time. They only reliable way to colour ali is anodisation. OK. There doesn't seem to be a raft of disgruntled powder paint owners out there. Well, that's how ali is. Nothing sticks to it forever. Google can confirm. NT |
#18
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Riverside Cottage
On Fri, 20 May 2016 03:45:40 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:
Unsealed DG mists because the inner space is exposed to the same water vapour level as indoors, but the temp is lower. Expose that space to the lower outdoor water vapour levels and it simply does not mist. External glazing does the latter, internal glazing the former. My externally glazed units has one that is now misting up. Or is this the exception to prove the rule? |
#19
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Riverside Cottage
In message , Mark
Allread writes On Fri, 20 May 2016 03:45:40 -0700, tabbypurr wrote: Unsealed DG mists because the inner space is exposed to the same water vapour level as indoors, but the temp is lower. Expose that space to the lower outdoor water vapour levels and it simply does not mist. External glazing does the latter, internal glazing the former. My externally glazed units has one that is now misting up. Or is this the exception to prove the rule? The misted ones I have are in timber windows so externally glazed. 20+ years though! -- Tim Lamb |
#20
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Riverside Cottage
On Friday, 20 May 2016 12:47:16 UTC+1, Mark Allread wrote:
On Fri, 20 May 2016 03:45:40 -0700, tabbypurr wrote: Unsealed DG mists because the inner space is exposed to the same water vapour level as indoors, but the temp is lower. Expose that space to the lower outdoor water vapour levels and it simply does not mist. External glazing does the latter, internal glazing the former. My externally glazed units has one that is now misting up. Is water running into the frame or something? NT |
#21
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Riverside Cottage
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#22
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Riverside Cottage
In message , Capitol
writes My experience is that externally mounted sealed units mist when the seals fail. PVC does lose it's shine, but who cares? My units still are white after 35 years. My aluminium windows are 40 yrs old and the white paint finish is still as good as new. OK. Will see me out, then:-( I think we have covered this topic. Thanks. -- Tim Lamb |
#23
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Riverside Cottage
On 21/05/2016 11:47, Capitol wrote:
Have you considered new durable species timber windows to match the existing? (but with deeper whatsits.) Not yet. This will be out last house and I am trying to avoid predictable maintenance. hence I said durable species. If you go for ali windows, beware of colour finishes such as powder coating. Nothing sticks well to ali, lumps come off in time. They only reliable way to colour ali is anodisation. OK. There doesn't seem to be a raft of disgruntled powder paint owners out there. Well, that's how ali is. Nothing sticks to it forever. Google can confirm. NT My experience is that externally mounted sealed units mist when the seals fail. PVC does lose it's shine, but who cares? My units still are white after 35 years. My aluminium windows are 40 yrs old and the white paint finish is still as good as new. had my plastics in since 1976, south facing and still clean and white. |
#24
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Riverside Cottage
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#25
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Riverside Cottage
On Wednesday, 18 May 2016 21:24:24 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
Q1. The existing windows are narrow spacing double glazed in brown painted pine. Two or three panels are blown and need renewing anyway. Can you get hold of rebated units? Get one or two spares as there could be more on their way out and they might be slightly cheaper to buy that way? |
#26
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Riverside Cottage
In message ,
Weatherlawyer writes On Wednesday, 18 May 2016 21:24:24 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote: Q1. The existing windows are narrow spacing double glazed in brown painted pine. Two or three panels are blown and need renewing anyway. Can you get hold of rebated units? Get one or two spares as there could be more on their way out and they might be slightly cheaper to buy that way? Rebated DG is new to me. I suppose the obvious would be triple glaze. I'll bear it in mind. Currently I am thinking of new aluminium throughout. -- Tim Lamb |
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