A few years ago I posted about this; now I need to do something this year -
before my tuit gets dripped on from the brand new crack!
The roof is corrugated asbestos cement, single pitch, about 8 deg.
Size is 7' wide by 10' down the pitch and has only one, mid-point, support.

Now, as mentioned to me before, I've been looking at cement fibre panels as
being the nearest type to the present ones, but it seems that the pitch is
shallow for the 3" ones and they seem to need a lot more support.

Are there any other products worth looking at? Steel seems rather thin and
prone to rust; Onduline would need a full deck.

Actually, I was wondering about using OSB 3 deck flush with the outsides of
the walls, overhang the panels a bit and use gravel board to protect the OSB
and joists - would that work.

As for the pitch, the sheets would be long enough to have about 40cm overlap
and that might e enought to stop water being blown up and under.

Any pointers, please?
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

PeterC wrote:
A few years ago I posted about this; now I need to do something this year -
before my tuit gets dripped on from the brand new crack!
The roof is corrugated asbestos cement, single pitch, about 8 deg.
Size is 7' wide by 10' down the pitch and has only one, mid-point, support.

Now, as mentioned to me before, I've been looking at cement fibre panels as
being the nearest type to the present ones, but it seems that the pitch is
shallow for the 3" ones and they seem to need a lot more support.

Are there any other products worth looking at? Steel seems rather thin and
prone to rust; Onduline would need a full deck.

Actually, I was wondering about using OSB 3 deck flush with the outsides of
the walls, overhang the panels a bit and use gravel board to protect the OSB
and joists - would that work.

As for the pitch, the sheets would be long enough to have about 40cm overlap
and that might e enought to stop water being blown up and under.

Any pointers, please?

Osb decking and EPDM works well.

In message , Bob Minchin
writes
PeterC wrote:
A few years ago I posted about this; now I need to do something this year -
before my tuit gets dripped on from the brand new crack!
The roof is corrugated asbestos cement, single pitch, about 8 deg.
Size is 7' wide by 10' down the pitch and has only one, mid-point, support.

Now, as mentioned to me before, I've been looking at cement fibre panels as
being the nearest type to the present ones, but it seems that the pitch is
shallow for the 3" ones and they seem to need a lot more support.

Are there any other products worth looking at? Steel seems rather thin and
prone to rust; Onduline would need a full deck.

Actually, I was wondering about using OSB 3 deck flush with the outsides of
the walls, overhang the panels a bit and use gravel board to protect the OSB
and joists - would that work.

As for the pitch, the sheets would be long enough to have about 40cm overlap
and that might e enought to stop water being blown up and under.

Any pointers, please?

Osb decking and EPDM works well.

I suspect the existing support and pitch would not have met the
requirements for asbestos cement anyway. The big 6 fibre cement sheets I
have used seem little different in rigidity to the asbestos they were
replacing.

--
Tim Lamb

On Mon, 16 May 2016 09:16:16 +0100, PeterC wrote:

A few years ago I posted about this; now I need to do something this
year - before my tuit gets dripped on from the brand new crack!
The roof is corrugated asbestos cement, single pitch, about 8 deg.
Size is 7' wide by 10' down the pitch and has only one, mid-point,
support.

Now, as mentioned to me before, I've been looking at cement fibre panels
as being the nearest type to the present ones, but it seems that the
pitch is shallow for the 3" ones and they seem to need a lot more
support.

Are there any other products worth looking at? Steel seems rather thin
and prone to rust; Onduline would need a full deck.

Actually, I was wondering about using OSB 3 deck flush with the outsides
of the walls, overhang the panels a bit and use gravel board to protect
the OSB and joists - would that work.

As for the pitch, the sheets would be long enough to have about 40cm
overlap and that might e enought to stop water being blown up and under.

Any pointers, please?

I used powder coated steel for my shed roof and there is no sign of rust
so far.

No need for full boarding, either.

See

http://s817.photobucket.com/user/Lit...er%20of%20all%
20Sheds/DSC_0492.jpg.html

and

http://s817.photobucket.com/user/Lit...er%20of%20all%
20Sheds/DSC_0497.jpg.html

for a rough idea.

Deep excavation would be required (probably) to find the supplier, but it
is generally used for industrial and agricultural buildings.

The shed roof is a little over engineered, and safe for several people to
walk on at the same time.

If you look at the typical agricultural building then the whole thing is
usually held up by minimal timber (presumably to reduce costs).

Cheers

Dave R


--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

On Mon, 16 May 2016 09:46:32 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

In message , Bob Minchin
writes
PeterC wrote:
A few years ago I posted about this; now I need to do something this year -
before my tuit gets dripped on from the brand new crack!
The roof is corrugated asbestos cement, single pitch, about 8 deg.
Size is 7' wide by 10' down the pitch and has only one, mid-point, support.

Now, as mentioned to me before, I've been looking at cement fibre panels as
being the nearest type to the present ones, but it seems that the pitch is
shallow for the 3" ones and they seem to need a lot more support.

Are there any other products worth looking at? Steel seems rather thin and
prone to rust; Onduline would need a full deck.

Actually, I was wondering about using OSB 3 deck flush with the outsides of
the walls, overhang the panels a bit and use gravel board to protect the OSB
and joists - would that work.

As for the pitch, the sheets would be long enough to have about 40cm overlap
and that might e enought to stop water being blown up and under.

Any pointers, please?

Osb decking and EPDM works well.

I suspect the existing support and pitch would not have met the
requirements for asbestos cement anyway. The big 6 fibre cement sheets I
have used seem little different in rigidity to the asbestos they were
replacing.

Given the requirements of fibre cement, I'd wondered about the differences
from asbestos cement.
Big 6 is OK for the pitch, but on the size of shed might be a bit
strange(?).
Looks as if the 'domestic/DIY', 3 version can't handle the span. The old
roof has been OK for, reallistically, about 60 years. Mind, I'm not too
worried about another 60 years - that'd make me nearly 130!
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 16 May 2016 16:11:36 GMT, David wrote:

On Mon, 16 May 2016 09:16:16 +0100, PeterC wrote:

A few years ago I posted about this; now I need to do something this
year - before my tuit gets dripped on from the brand new crack!
The roof is corrugated asbestos cement, single pitch, about 8 deg.
Size is 7' wide by 10' down the pitch and has only one, mid-point,
support.

Now, as mentioned to me before, I've been looking at cement fibre panels
as being the nearest type to the present ones, but it seems that the
pitch is shallow for the 3" ones and they seem to need a lot more
support.

Are there any other products worth looking at? Steel seems rather thin
and prone to rust; Onduline would need a full deck.

Actually, I was wondering about using OSB 3 deck flush with the outsides
of the walls, overhang the panels a bit and use gravel board to protect
the OSB and joists - would that work.

As for the pitch, the sheets would be long enough to have about 40cm
overlap and that might e enought to stop water being blown up and under.

Any pointers, please?

I used powder coated steel for my shed roof and there is no sign of rust
so far.

No need for full boarding, either.

See

http://s817.photobucket.com/user/Lit...er%20of%20all%
20Sheds/DSC_0492.jpg.html

and

http://s817.photobucket.com/user/Lit...er%20of%20all%
20Sheds/DSC_0497.jpg.html

for a rough idea.

Deep excavation would be required (probably) to find the supplier, but it
is generally used for industrial and agricultural buildings.

The shed roof is a little over engineered, and safe for several people to
walk on at the same time.

I'm not surprised - must be the biggest 'brick ****house' in the world!
I really like the construction of the roof - it's really versatile for use
inside and just looks right.

If you look at the typical agricultural building then the whole thing is
usually held up by minimal timber (presumably to reduce costs).

OK, thanks, I'll look at steel again as an option. The FS sheets are an
awkward width: 3 won't do it and 4 would be ridiculous.


--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

In message , PeterC
writes
On Mon, 16 May 2016 09:46:32 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

I suspect the existing support and pitch would not have met the
requirements for asbestos cement anyway. The big 6 fibre cement sheets I
have used seem little different in rigidity to the asbestos they were
replacing.

Given the requirements of fibre cement, I'd wondered about the differences
from asbestos cement.
Big 6 is OK for the pitch, but on the size of shed might be a bit
strange(?).
Looks as if the 'domestic/DIY', 3 version can't handle the span. The old
roof has been OK for, reallistically, about 60 years. Mind, I'm not too
worried about another 60 years - that'd make me nearly 130!

The shallowest pitch recommended for agricultural use is 12.5 deg.

I'd think the support spacing requirement is based on snow loading
rarely encountered here. Just do it! Alternatively get some joist
hangers and put up more purlins.

Steel roofing, in some weather conditions, (cold night after a humid
day) will suffer from condensation.

--
Tim Lamb

On Tue, 17 May 2016 09:05:14 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

In message , PeterC
writes
On Mon, 16 May 2016 09:46:32 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

I suspect the existing support and pitch would not have met the
requirements for asbestos cement anyway. The big 6 fibre cement sheets I
have used seem little different in rigidity to the asbestos they were
replacing.

Given the requirements of fibre cement, I'd wondered about the differences
from asbestos cement.
Big 6 is OK for the pitch, but on the size of shed might be a bit
strange(?).
Looks as if the 'domestic/DIY', 3 version can't handle the span. The old
roof has been OK for, reallistically, about 60 years. Mind, I'm not too
worried about another 60 years - that'd make me nearly 130!

The shallowest pitch recommended for agricultural use is 12.5 deg.

I'd think the support spacing requirement is based on snow loading
rarely encountered here. Just do it! Alternatively get some joist
hangers and put up more purlins.

Yes, could do that. Another 2 would help a lot.
If I were to use a full deck, I'd need another joist for the 'horizontal'
(transverse) join in the deck.

If the pitch criterion is about water being blown back up, a 40cm overlap
and some sealant should fix that.

Steel roofing, in some weather conditions, (cold night after a humid
day) will suffer from condensation.

That's what concerned me - I don't want me tools rusting!
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 17/05/2016 08:35, PeterC wrote:
On 16 May 2016 16:11:36 GMT, David wrote:

On Mon, 16 May 2016 09:16:16 +0100, PeterC wrote:

A few years ago I posted about this; now I need to do something this
year - before my tuit gets dripped on from the brand new crack!
The roof is corrugated asbestos cement, single pitch, about 8 deg.
Size is 7' wide by 10' down the pitch and has only one, mid-point,
support.

Now, as mentioned to me before, I've been looking at cement fibre panels
as being the nearest type to the present ones, but it seems that the
pitch is shallow for the 3" ones and they seem to need a lot more
support.

Are there any other products worth looking at? Steel seems rather thin
and prone to rust; Onduline would need a full deck.

Actually, I was wondering about using OSB 3 deck flush with the outsides
of the walls, overhang the panels a bit and use gravel board to protect
the OSB and joists - would that work.

As for the pitch, the sheets would be long enough to have about 40cm
overlap and that might e enought to stop water being blown up and under.

Any pointers, please?

I used powder coated steel for my shed roof and there is no sign of rust
so far.

No need for full boarding, either.

See

http://s817.photobucket.com/user/Lit...er%20of%20all%
20Sheds/DSC_0492.jpg.html

and

http://s817.photobucket.com/user/Lit...er%20of%20all%
20Sheds/DSC_0497.jpg.html

for a rough idea.

Deep excavation would be required (probably) to find the supplier, but it
is generally used for industrial and agricultural buildings.

The shed roof is a little over engineered, and safe for several people to
walk on at the same time.

I'm not surprised - must be the biggest 'brick ****house' in the world!

You never saw Manchester Arndale before the IRA blew it up then?

On Tue, 17 May 2016 21:57:01 +0100, Steve Walker wrote:

The shed roof is a little over engineered, and safe for several people to
walk on at the same time.

I'm not surprised - must be the biggest 'brick ****house' in the world!

You never saw Manchester Arndale before the IRA blew it up then?

I didn't - was it bad?
It wasn't DIY anyway.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 18/05/2016 10:20, PeterC wrote:
On Tue, 17 May 2016 21:57:01 +0100, Steve Walker wrote:

The shed roof is a little over engineered, and safe for several people to
walk on at the same time.

I'm not surprised - must be the biggest 'brick ****house' in the world!

You never saw Manchester Arndale before the IRA blew it up then?

I didn't - was it bad?

Take a look at the 3rd and 4th pictures at

http://manchesterhistory.net/manches...rea4page5.html

It wasn't DIY anyway.

A DIYer wouldn't have done what the architect specified!

On Wed, 18 May 2016 17:50:33 +0100, Steve Walker wrote:

On 18/05/2016 10:20, PeterC wrote:
On Tue, 17 May 2016 21:57:01 +0100, Steve Walker wrote:

The shed roof is a little over engineered, and safe for several people to
walk on at the same time.

I'm not surprised - must be the biggest 'brick ****house' in the world!

You never saw Manchester Arndale before the IRA blew it up then?

I didn't - was it bad?

Take a look at the 3rd and 4th pictures at

http://manchesterhistory.net/manches...rea4page5.html

Oh, I see - concrete grunge.
The Victorians could build a sewage pumping station and was a work of art
and could have lasted for centuries. Nowadays we fo for fugly that, in some
merciful cases, falls down in a few decades.

It wasn't DIY anyway.

A DIYer wouldn't have done what the architect specified!

Yes, one look and run!
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Wed, 18 May 2016 22:16:13 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Wed, 18 May 2016 17:50:33 +0100, Steve Walker wrote:

On 18/05/2016 10:20, PeterC wrote:
On Tue, 17 May 2016 21:57:01 +0100, Steve Walker wrote:

The shed roof is a little over engineered, and safe for several people to
walk on at the same time.

I'm not surprised - must be the biggest 'brick ****house' in the world!

You never saw Manchester Arndale before the IRA blew it up then?

I didn't - was it bad?

Take a look at the 3rd and 4th pictures at

http://manchesterhistory.net/manches...rea4page5.html

Oh, I see - concrete grunge.
The Victorians could build a sewage pumping station and was a work of art
and could have lasted for centuries. Nowadays we fo for fugly that, in some
merciful cases, falls down in a few decades.


I've just been around Papplewick Pumping station - a fine example of
Victorian grandeur never intended for public viewing:

http://papplewickpumpingstation.co.uk/site_photos.htm

The defunct reservoir is like a cathedral inside and no bricks were
cut!

Some nice YouTube videos available if you like steam and Victoriana.


--
AnthonyL

On 18/05/2016 22:16, PeterC wrote:
On Wed, 18 May 2016 17:50:33 +0100, Steve Walker wrote:

On 18/05/2016 10:20, PeterC wrote:
On Tue, 17 May 2016 21:57:01 +0100, Steve Walker wrote:

The shed roof is a little over engineered, and safe for
several people to walk on at the same time.

I'm not surprised - must be the biggest 'brick ****house' in
the world!

You never saw Manchester Arndale before the IRA blew it up
then?

I didn't - was it bad?

Take a look at the 3rd and 4th pictures at

http://manchesterhistory.net/manches...rea4page5.html


Oh, I see - concrete grunge.

Yes, although not so much the concrete as the acres of yellow tiles
covering it. Even concrete can sometimes be made to look good.

The Victorians could build a sewage pumping station and was a work of
art and could have lasted for centuries. Nowadays we fo for fugly
that, in some merciful cases, falls down in a few decades.

If it looks right, it often is right. The Victorians certainly knew how
to build things that both lasted and were beautiful at the same time.

"AnthonyL" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 May 2016 22:16:13 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Wed, 18 May 2016 17:50:33 +0100, Steve Walker wrote:

On 18/05/2016 10:20, PeterC wrote:
On Tue, 17 May 2016 21:57:01 +0100, Steve Walker wrote:

The shed roof is a little over engineered, and safe for several
people to
walk on at the same time.

I'm not surprised - must be the biggest 'brick ****house' in the
world!

You never saw Manchester Arndale before the IRA blew it up then?

I didn't - was it bad?

Take a look at the 3rd and 4th pictures at

http://manchesterhistory.net/manches...rea4page5.html

Oh, I see - concrete grunge.
The Victorians could build a sewage pumping station and was a work of art
and could have lasted for centuries. Nowadays we fo for fugly that, in
some
merciful cases, falls down in a few decades.


I've just been around Papplewick Pumping station - a fine example of
Victorian grandeur never intended for public viewing:

http://papplewickpumpingstation.co.uk/site_photos.htm

The defunct reservoir is like a cathedral inside and no bricks were
cut!

Some nice YouTube videos available if you like steam and Victoriana.

Wonder why that changed ? Presumably the fact that
WW1 bankrupted the nation was a very large part of that.

On Thu, 19 May 2016 11:26:15 GMT, AnthonyL wrote:

You never saw Manchester Arndale before the IRA blew it up then?

I didn't - was it bad?

Take a look at the 3rd and 4th pictures at

http://manchesterhistory.net/manches...rea4page5.html

Oh, I see - concrete grunge.
The Victorians could build a sewage pumping station and was a work of art
and could have lasted for centuries. Nowadays we fo for fugly that, in some
merciful cases, falls down in a few decades.


I've just been around Papplewick Pumping station - a fine example of
Victorian grandeur never intended for public viewing:

http://papplewickpumpingstation.co.uk/site_photos.htm

The defunct reservoir is like a cathedral inside and no bricks were
cut!

Some nice YouTube videos available if you like steam and Victoriana.

Cheers, I'll have a look later.
There's something about 'proper' engineering that modern crapstacks lack.
Menai Bridge had to be strengthened when lorries became too heavy, but
otherwise is still good. Some modern bridges fall down during construction!
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Mon, 16 May 2016 09:16:16 +0100, PeterC wrote:

A few years ago I posted about this; now I need to do something this year -
before my tuit gets dripped on from the brand new crack!
The roof is corrugated asbestos cement, single pitch, about 8 deg.
Size is 7' wide by 10' down the pitch and has only one, mid-point, support.

Well, getting there slowly - the rain, the rain!
On my own, so shunting the old sheets around (once I'd managed to see off
65-yo, rather thick, nails) whilst keeping the place rainproof has been
arduous. Lucky that I got a cheap tarpaulin from TS

The long sides were hacked roughly to pitch then mortared up to the roofing
sheet, so plenty in there as it fills a ridge of the corrugation.
I need to matchit more closely to the OSB so, when there's sufficient fine
weather, I'll slide the old sheets to one side, use a 3m straight timber as
a guide and fill in.
What would be the best mortar to use? I prefer ready-mixed powder as the
ready-to-use will be heavier and I have a rucksack as transport!
Would this stuff be OK?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Patch...2-5kg/p/222709

Polyfilla seems a bit naff for this purpose!


--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway