After 30 years, the time has come to re-roof my 8x12 shed as there has
been a significant leak that has developed. Having never done any
roofing before, I'd appreciate suggestions as to the process through
links, instructions, etc.

Also, since I won't have the time to re-roof for a couple of weeks yet,
I'm wondering if I could apply roofing cement over the leaking area as
a temporary solution. The area leaking seems to be affecting
approximately a 6x12" area underneath.

Thanks,
Jason

On Apr 10, 7:19*am, Jason wrote:
After 30 years, the time has come to re-roof my 8x12 shed as there has
been a significant leak that has developed. *Having never done any
roofing before, I'd appreciate suggestions as to the process through
links, instructions, etc.

You can use google to find many videos on youtube, etc
that show the process





Also, since I won't have the time to re-roof for a couple of weeks yet,
* I'm wondering if I could apply roofing cement over the leaking area as
a temporary solution.

Yes, you can.



*The area leaking seems to be affecting
approximately a 6x12" area underneath.

Thanks,
Jason

On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 7:19:05 AM UTC-4, Jason wrote:

Also, since I won't have the time to re-roof for a couple of weeks yet,

I'm wondering if I could apply roofing cement over the leaking area as

a temporary solution.

No.

Well, theoretically it will work. But human nature will intervene. You'll never get back to the roofing job.

What kind of roof? Standing seam metal? Built up? Shingled? Tile?

How bad is the sheathing underneath? Has the shed been re-roofed a couple of times, so there are several layers of shingle?

On Apr 10, 4:19*am, Jason wrote:
After 30 years, the time has come to re-roof my 8x12 shed as there has
been a significant leak that has developed. *Having never done any
roofing before, I'd appreciate suggestions as to the process through
links, instructions, etc.

Also, since I won't have the time to re-roof for a couple of weeks yet,
* I'm wondering if I could apply roofing cement over the leaking area as
a temporary solution. *The area leaking seems to be affecting
approximately a 6x12" area underneath.

Thanks,
Jason

If it is asphalt shingles, the instructions on 'how-to' are printed
right on the bundles. It is not a complicated process.

Do take the time to strip off all the old shingles.

Harry K

On Wed, 10 Apr 2013 07:19:05 -0400, Jason wrote:

After 30 years, the time has come to re-roof my 8x12 shed as there has
been a significant leak that has developed. Having never done any
roofing before, I'd appreciate suggestions as to the process through
links, instructions, etc.

Others have pointed to the instructions. It's hard work but isn't
difficult. An 8x12 shed should be easy enough.

Also, since I won't have the time to re-roof for a couple of weeks yet,
I'm wondering if I could apply roofing cement over the leaking area as
a temporary solution. The area leaking seems to be affecting
approximately a 6x12" area underneath.

A blue plastic tarp from Lowes of HF is a better bet. Weight it down
with some 2x4s.

Jason:

There is a product out called "torch down roofing" which very much resembles asphalt shingles, but comes in a roll (about 3 or 4 feet wide IIRC).

You simply roll out as much as you need on your roof and make sure it's not crooked, weigh down one end, roll it back up and then heat the bottom with a torch. When you do that, the material on the underside becomes sticky so that you just press it down and it sticks to the roof. This method is quickly becoming a favourite amongst flat roofing contractors because it's faster, easier and more reliable than a built-up roof. As long as the roof on your shed isn't so steep that you can't do that comfortably, then torch down roofing would be the way I'd go. Just start at the bottom and work your way up, just like with shingles.

So, instead of learning how to nail shingles down, I would investigate torch down roofing.

Jason wrote:
After 30 years, the time has come to re-roof my 8x12 shed as there has
been a significant leak that has developed. Having never done any
roofing before, I'd appreciate suggestions as to the process through
links, instructions, etc.

Also, since I won't have the time to re-roof for a couple of weeks yet,
I'm wondering if I could apply roofing cement over the leaking area as
a temporary solution. The area leaking seems to be affecting
approximately a 6x12" area underneath.

Thanks,
Jason

No one has asked so far, so I will.
What kind of shed are you talking about, metal, wood, or some other
material?

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

On Apr 10, 9:56*am, Harry K wrote:
On Apr 10, 4:19*am, Jason wrote:

After 30 years, the time has come to re-roof my 8x12 shed as there has
been a significant leak that has developed. *Having never done any
roofing before, I'd appreciate suggestions as to the process through
links, instructions, etc.

Also, since I won't have the time to re-roof for a couple of weeks yet,
* I'm wondering if I could apply roofing cement over the leaking area as
a temporary solution. *The area leaking seems to be affecting
approximately a 6x12" area underneath.

Thanks,
Jason

If it is asphalt shingles, the instructions on 'how-to' are printed
right on the bundles. *It is not a complicated process.

Do take the time to strip off all the old shingles.

Harry K

The only *slightly* complicated part is cutting the shingles for the
peak. You need to do that angle thing so that it looks neat when you
are done.

About half way down this site they show the proper angle layout for
the ridge:

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/r...ak_details.htm

Oh wait, maybe the OP will want to add ridge and soffits vents. He'll
need to determine the proper square inches of intake vs. outflow for a
6' x 12' shed. There, that ought to get a lively discussion
started. ;-)

Years ago, I came home from work and saw my neighbor and a few of his
friends up on the roof of his house. They had already stripped off the
old shingles and had started nailing down the new ones. They had just
completed the first "course". I put that in quotes because they
installed it *vertically*, from the soffit to the ridge. My neighbor
saw me pull up and yelled down "How do I installed this next bunch
without having a lump where they overlap?"

When I pointed out that shingles are installed in "rows" not "columns"
he was pretty embarrassed. I went inside and grabbed a home repair
book that had a pretty good chapter on roofing. I suggested he do some
reading while his friends were removing the shingles that they had
just installed.

On Apr 10, 12:54*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Apr 10, 9:56*am, Harry K wrote:





On Apr 10, 4:19*am, Jason wrote:

After 30 years, the time has come to re-roof my 8x12 shed as there has
been a significant leak that has developed. *Having never done any
roofing before, I'd appreciate suggestions as to the process through
links, instructions, etc.

Also, since I won't have the time to re-roof for a couple of weeks yet,
* I'm wondering if I could apply roofing cement over the leaking area as
a temporary solution. *The area leaking seems to be affecting
approximately a 6x12" area underneath.

Thanks,
Jason

If it is asphalt shingles, the instructions on 'how-to' are printed
right on the bundles. *It is not a complicated process.

Do take the time to strip off all the old shingles.

Harry K

The only *slightly* complicated part is cutting the shingles for the
peak. You need to do that angle thing so that it looks neat when you
are done.

About half way down this site they show the proper angle layout for
the ridge:

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/r...hingle_3tab/as...


I can't believe it!! I had to look at your cite to see what you
meant. I seem to have
forgotten about those angled cuts in spite of having reroofed my
garage, 2 sheds and a woodshed not all that many years ago. What good
is a memory if you can't forget?

Harry K

Ok, thanks for the posts so far. Just to update, this is a wooden shed
with asphalt shingles. Someone asked what type of roof.... well, if you
take an octagon and cut it in half and place it on the shed that's the
kind of roof it has. So there are technically 3 peaks and none of them
very steep. Yesterday, I temporarily patched up the area with a
moderate quantity of roofing cement. After last night's rain, it seemed
to stop the leaking.... for now. In a couple of weeks, I'm going to try
and replace the roofing. Yes, this layer will have to be removed first
as there is at least one rotten spot underneath and maybe others as well
although it doesn't look like it from inside.

My biggest concern is what quantity of shingles I'll need and the best
way to go over the peaks. BTW, it doesn't look like there was any drip
edge originally although I think I'll install one.

Jason


After 30 years, the time has come to re-roof my 8x12 shed as there has
been a significant leak that has developed. Having never done any
roofing before, I'd appreciate suggestions as to the process through
links, instructions, etc.

Also, since I won't have the time to re-roof for a couple of weeks yet,
I'm wondering if I could apply roofing cement over the leaking area as
a temporary solution. The area leaking seems to be affecting
approximately a 6x12" area underneath.

Thanks,
Jason

On Apr 11, 4:39*am, Jason wrote:
Ok, thanks for the posts so far. *Just to update, this is a wooden shed
with asphalt shingles. *Someone asked what type of roof.... well, if you
take an octagon and cut it in half and place it on the shed that's the
kind of roof it has. *So there are technically 3 peaks and none of them
very steep. *Yesterday, I temporarily patched up the area with a
moderate quantity of roofing cement. *After last night's rain, it seemed
to stop the leaking.... for now. *In a couple of weeks, I'm going to try
and replace the roofing. *Yes, this layer will have to be removed first
as there is at least one rotten spot underneath and maybe others as well
although it doesn't look like it from inside.

My biggest concern is what quantity of shingles I'll need and the best
way to go over the peaks. *BTW, it doesn't look like there was any drip
edge originally although I think I'll install one.

Jason



After 30 years, the time has come to re-roof my 8x12 shed as there has
been a significant leak that has developed. *Having never done any
roofing before, I'd appreciate suggestions as to the process through
links, instructions, etc.

Also, since I won't have the time to re-roof for a couple of weeks yet,
* I'm wondering if I could apply roofing cement over the leaking area as
a temporary solution. *The area leaking seems to be affecting
approximately a 6x12" area underneath.

Thanks,
Jason

A "square" of shingles is enough to cover 100 sq ft of roof. Shingles
usually come

I must be losing it. 8' x 12' = 96 sq ft which says that one "square"
of shingles is all you ned. That can't be right as the normal 3
bundles of shingles is not going to cover that much roof.

Where is my error???

in 3 bundles per square.

Harry K

"Harry K" wrote in message
...
A "square" of shingles is enough to cover 100 sq ft of roof. Shingles
usually come

I must be losing it. 8' x 12' = 96 sq ft which says that one "square"
of shingles is all you ned. That can't be right as the normal 3
bundles of shingles is not going to cover that much roof.

Where is my error???

in 3 bundles per square.

Harry K

I don't think you have an error, but is that 8 x 12 the size of the shed or
the actual size of the roof ? Then you have to allow a few extra for the
bottom run and the ridge cap.

If you need two squares, buy contrasting colors and install every other shingle.

Should give you a unique shed look.

On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 07:28:02 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Apr 11, 4:39*am, Jason wrote:
Ok, thanks for the posts so far. *Just to update, this is a wooden shed
with asphalt shingles. *Someone asked what type of roof.... well, if you
take an octagon and cut it in half and place it on the shed that's the
kind of roof it has. *So there are technically 3 peaks and none of them
very steep. *Yesterday, I temporarily patched up the area with a
moderate quantity of roofing cement. *After last night's rain, it seemed
to stop the leaking.... for now. *In a couple of weeks, I'm going to try
and replace the roofing. *Yes, this layer will have to be removed first
as there is at least one rotten spot underneath and maybe others as well
although it doesn't look like it from inside.

My biggest concern is what quantity of shingles I'll need and the best
way to go over the peaks. *BTW, it doesn't look like there was any drip
edge originally although I think I'll install one.

Jason



After 30 years, the time has come to re-roof my 8x12 shed as there has
been a significant leak that has developed. *Having never done any
roofing before, I'd appreciate suggestions as to the process through
links, instructions, etc.

Also, since I won't have the time to re-roof for a couple of weeks yet,
* I'm wondering if I could apply roofing cement over the leaking area as
a temporary solution. *The area leaking seems to be affecting
approximately a 6x12" area underneath.

Thanks,
Jason

A "square" of shingles is enough to cover 100 sq ft of roof. Shingles
usually come

I must be losing it. 8' x 12' = 96 sq ft which says that one "square"
of shingles is all you ned. That can't be right as the normal 3
bundles of shingles is not going to cover that much roof.

Where is my error???

in 3 bundles per square.

Harry K
100 sq feet of floor area is a lot different than 100 sq feet of
pitched roof.. Closer to 1 and a half square for the roof, and that
may be a bit low.

On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 08:39:38 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

If you need two squares, buy contrasting colors and install every other shingle.

Should give you a unique shed look.
At 3 packs to the square, he could have SIX colours.

On Apr 11, 6:10*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 08:39:38 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

If you need two squares, buy contrasting colors and install every other shingle.

Should give you a unique shed look.

* At 3 packs to the square, he could have SIX colours.

I would buy 4 bundles of shingles. You can always take an unopened
bundle back if you don't use it. Just make sure that they all have the
same manufacture lot#. This way they should match. You should be
able to do this roof in a day. I did an 18x22 shop in 2 days. Just
follow the directions on the bundle. On most three-tab shingles, 4
nails is sufficient. Unfortunately, when the city where I live, made
me use 6 nails due to we are in a high-wind zone. Once you tear off
the old shinges to the expose the sheathing, make sure you replace any
rotten boards.Then start at the bottom and work your way up. Just
make sure to stagger your edges.

Robin

On Apr 11, 5:09*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 07:28:02 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:





On Apr 11, 4:39*am, Jason wrote:
Ok, thanks for the posts so far. *Just to update, this is a wooden shed
with asphalt shingles. *Someone asked what type of roof.... well, if you
take an octagon and cut it in half and place it on the shed that's the
kind of roof it has. *So there are technically 3 peaks and none of them
very steep. *Yesterday, I temporarily patched up the area with a
moderate quantity of roofing cement. *After last night's rain, it seemed
to stop the leaking.... for now. *In a couple of weeks, I'm going to try
and replace the roofing. *Yes, this layer will have to be removed first
as there is at least one rotten spot underneath and maybe others as well
although it doesn't look like it from inside.

My biggest concern is what quantity of shingles I'll need and the best
way to go over the peaks. *BTW, it doesn't look like there was any drip
edge originally although I think I'll install one.

Jason

After 30 years, the time has come to re-roof my 8x12 shed as there has
been a significant leak that has developed. *Having never done any
roofing before, I'd appreciate suggestions as to the process through
links, instructions, etc.

Also, since I won't have the time to re-roof for a couple of weeks yet,
* I'm wondering if I could apply roofing cement over the leaking area as
a temporary solution. *The area leaking seems to be affecting
approximately a 6x12" area underneath.

Thanks,
Jason

A "square" of shingles is enough to cover 100 sq ft of roof. *Shingles
usually come

I must be losing it. *8' x 12' = 96 sq ft which says that one "square"
of shingles is all you ned. *That can't be right as the normal 3
bundles of shingles is not going to cover that much roof.

Where is my error???

in 3 bundles per square.

Harry K

*100 sq feet of floor area is *a lot different than 100 sq feet of
pitched roof.. *Closer to 1 and a half square for the roof, and that
may be a bit low.

especially when allowing for the starter course and any ridge cap(s).
Harry K

Jason wrote:

After 30 years, the time has come to re-roof my 8x12 shed as there
has been a significant leak that has developed. Having never done
any roofing before, I'd appreciate suggestions as to the process
through links, instructions, etc.

Ok, thanks for the posts so far. Just to update, this is a wooden
shed with asphalt shingles. Someone asked what type of roof....
well, if you take an octagon and cut it in half and place it on the
shed that's the kind of roof it has. So there are technically 3
peaks and none of them very steep. Yesterday, I temporarily patched
up the area with a moderate quantity of roofing cement. After last
night's rain, it seemed to stop the leaking.... for now. In a couple
of weeks, I'm going to try and replace the roofing. Yes, this layer
will have to be removed first as there is at least one rotten spot
underneath and maybe others as well although it doesn't look like it
from inside.
My biggest concern is what quantity of shingles I'll need and the best
way to go over the peaks.

I don't know the part about how to go over the peaks.

But, here is how to figure the actual square footage of roof surface area
that you have now:

Assuming that the shed is 12 feet long, and along the 8 foot ends the roof
line goes up to the top of the roof and back down to the other side in 4
sections (two sections up and two sections back down) -- measure along the
edge of each of the 4 sections, and add those four numbers up. For example,
if each of those edges is 2-1/2 feet, the total of the 4 would be 10 feet.

Then multiply the total length of the 4 edges times the 12 foot length of
the shed.

In the example above, that would be 10 feet times 12 feet, or 120 square
feet of roof surface area. If the edges are each 3 feet instead of 2-1/2
feet, the surface area would be the 3 feet times 4 = 12 feet, times the 12
foot length of the shed = 144 square feet of roof surface area.

Harry,

A "square" of shingles is enough to cover 100 sq ft of roof.
I must be losing it. 8' x 12' = 96 sq ft which says that one
"square" of shingles is all you ned. That can't be right as the
normal 3 bundles of shingles is not going to cover that much roof.
Where is my error???

96 square feet is for a flat roof with no overhang, starter strips, or
ridge shingles.

With a pitched roof you would have to calculate the total rise (squared)
plus the total run (squared), then take the square root. Then add the
overhang at the bottom, add the overhangs to the width, then multiply for
total square footage.

Of course, on a building that size, it would be easier to grab a tape
measure and measure the height and width of each side. I always get a
couple extra bundles for starter strips, ridge caps, and to keep a few
extras on hand for making repairs when needed.

Anthony Watson
Mountain Software
www.mountain-software.com/about.htm

Jason, I had the same problem and I used black spray Flex Seal and it is a good temporary repair.
I used it on my chimney cap too.

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ed-743988-.htm

bruce wrote

Jason, I had the same problem and I used black spray Flex Seal and it is a
good temporary repair.
I used it on my chimney cap too.

Rather unlikely that he is still waiting for your comment after 7 years.

--
For full context, visit
https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ed-743988-.htm