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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Repairing rotten barge board ends
A while ago I noticed that the end of one of the barge boards looked a
bit sick - had a good look at it today and for a few inches near the end it's soft enough to poke a screwdriver through. The rest of the board, the other B.boards, and the fascias are scruffy but sound; soffits near the rotten barge board will need replacing but are otherwise OK. The question is: how to repair the barge board? The woodwork is stained brown so if I just cut the end off the replacement will be obvious and the butt join will let water in. Replacing the whole B.Board will need scaffolding and be beyond what I'm prepared to tackle. A move is possible so I don't want to spend a couple of grand getting everything replaced with plastic. This must be a standard problem - what's the answer? |
#2
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Repairing rotten barge board ends
wrote in message ... A while ago I noticed that the end of one of the barge boards looked a bit sick - had a good look at it today and for a few inches near the end it's soft enough to poke a screwdriver through. The rest of the board, the other B.boards, and the fascias are scruffy but sound; soffits near the rotten barge board will need replacing but are otherwise OK. The question is: how to repair the barge board? The woodwork is stained brown so if I just cut the end off the replacement will be obvious and the butt join will let water in. Replacing the whole B.Board will need scaffolding and be beyond what I'm prepared to tackle. A move is possible so I don't want to spend a couple of grand getting everything replaced with plastic. This must be a standard problem - what's the answer? Replace the barge board. |
#3
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Repairing rotten barge board ends
On 25/03/2016 19:46, Rod Speed wrote:
wrote in message ... A while ago I noticed that the end of one of the barge boards looked a bit sick - had a good look at it today and for a few inches near the end it's soft enough to poke a screwdriver through. The rest of the board, the other B.boards, and the fascias are scruffy but sound; soffits near the rotten barge board will need replacing but are otherwise OK. The question is: how to repair the barge board? The woodwork is stained brown so if I just cut the end off the replacement will be obvious and the butt join will let water in. Replacing the whole B.Board will need scaffolding and be beyond what I'm prepared to tackle. A move is possible so I don't want to spend a couple of grand getting everything replaced with plastic. This must be a standard problem - what's the answer? Replace the barge board. The soffit strip is almost certainly nailed to the top of the bargeboard so I would probably have to re-bed the end tiles if I replaced the whole thing - a job I would not tackle. |
#4
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Repairing rotten barge board ends
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#6
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Repairing rotten barge board ends
wrote in message ... On 25/03/2016 19:46, Rod Speed wrote: wrote in message ... A while ago I noticed that the end of one of the barge boards looked a bit sick - had a good look at it today and for a few inches near the end it's soft enough to poke a screwdriver through. The rest of the board, the other B.boards, and the fascias are scruffy but sound; soffits near the rotten barge board will need replacing but are otherwise OK. The question is: how to repair the barge board? The woodwork is stained brown so if I just cut the end off the replacement will be obvious and the butt join will let water in. Replacing the whole B.Board will need scaffolding and be beyond what I'm prepared to tackle. A move is possible so I don't want to spend a couple of grand getting everything replaced with plastic. This must be a standard problem - what's the answer? Replace the barge board. The soffit strip is almost certainly nailed to the top of the bargeboard so I would probably have to re-bed the end tiles if I replaced the whole thing - a job I would not tackle. Then pay someone to do it. Not going to cost much. |
#7
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Repairing rotten barge board ends
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#8
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Repairing rotten barge board ends
On 25/03/2016 20:29, Phil L wrote:
wrote: A while ago I noticed that the end of one of the barge boards looked a bit sick - had a good look at it today and for a few inches near the end it's soft enough to poke a screwdriver through. The rest of the board, the other B.boards, and the fascias are scruffy but sound; soffits near the rotten barge board will need replacing but are otherwise OK. The question is: how to repair the barge board? The woodwork is stained brown so if I just cut the end off the replacement will be obvious and the butt join will let water in. Replacing the whole B.Board will need scaffolding and be beyond what I'm prepared to tackle. A move is possible so I don't want to spend a couple of grand getting everything replaced with plastic. This must be a standard problem - what's the answer? A couple of grand? - I don't know how much plastic is where you live, but I can get a 5m length of woodgrain effect capping board for about £25. You'll need maybe 3 to go up both sides, two corner caps and three straight joints and a small pack of brown plastic headed SS nails. Expect change out of a hundred and two people can put it up in 45 minutes The house is about 12m long, with a sizeable single storey bit that would need doing to match. As a rough guesstimate I would need nearly 40m of fascia capping, plus the bargeboards and soffits. There is no ladder access to one of the gable ends so that would need scaffolding. Overall, not something I want to tackle when most of the timber is OK. |
#9
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Repairing rotten barge board ends
wrote:
On 25/03/2016 20:29, Phil L wrote: wrote: A while ago I noticed that the end of one of the barge boards looked a bit sick - had a good look at it today and for a few inches near the end it's soft enough to poke a screwdriver through. The rest of the board, the other B.boards, and the fascias are scruffy but sound; soffits near the rotten barge board will need replacing but are otherwise OK. The question is: how to repair the barge board? The woodwork is stained brown so if I just cut the end off the replacement will be obvious and the butt join will let water in. Replacing the whole B.Board will need scaffolding and be beyond what I'm prepared to tackle. A move is possible so I don't want to spend a couple of grand getting everything replaced with plastic. This must be a standard problem - what's the answer? A couple of grand? - I don't know how much plastic is where you live, but I can get a 5m length of woodgrain effect capping board for about £25. You'll need maybe 3 to go up both sides, two corner caps and three straight joints and a small pack of brown plastic headed SS nails. Expect change out of a hundred and two people can put it up in 45 minutes The house is about 12m long, with a sizeable single storey bit that would need doing to match. As a rough guesstimate I would need nearly 40m of fascia capping, plus the bargeboards and soffits. There is no ladder access to one of the gable ends so that would need scaffolding. Overall, not something I want to tackle when most of the timber is OK. In that case, all you can do is cut out the rotten part and replace, then stain to match. Use frame sealant (not silicone) in the joint between the two |
#10
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Repairing rotten barge board ends
On 26/03/2016 14:55, Phil L wrote:
wrote: On 25/03/2016 20:29, Phil L wrote: wrote: A while ago I noticed that the end of one of the barge boards looked a bit sick - had a good look at it today and for a few inches near the end it's soft enough to poke a screwdriver through. The rest of the board, the other B.boards, and the fascias are scruffy but sound; soffits near the rotten barge board will need replacing but are otherwise OK. The question is: how to repair the barge board? The woodwork is stained brown so if I just cut the end off the replacement will be obvious and the butt join will let water in. Replacing the whole B.Board will need scaffolding and be beyond what I'm prepared to tackle. A move is possible so I don't want to spend a couple of grand getting everything replaced with plastic. This must be a standard problem - what's the answer? A couple of grand? - I don't know how much plastic is where you live, but I can get a 5m length of woodgrain effect capping board for about £25. You'll need maybe 3 to go up both sides, two corner caps and three straight joints and a small pack of brown plastic headed SS nails. Expect change out of a hundred and two people can put it up in 45 minutes The house is about 12m long, with a sizeable single storey bit that would need doing to match. As a rough guesstimate I would need nearly 40m of fascia capping, plus the bargeboards and soffits. There is no ladder access to one of the gable ends so that would need scaffolding. Overall, not something I want to tackle when most of the timber is OK. In that case, all you can do is cut out the rotten part and replace, then stain to match. Use frame sealant (not silicone) in the joint between the two OK, a plan is forming. Use a multi-tool to cut-out most of the rotten timber, with a bevel on the cut edge so that the joint will be slightly scarfed Use Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener to stabilise any dodgy wood that I can't remove. Fix some treated battens up the back of the good board to support the new timber. I'm tempted to use a PU adhesive in the joint - is Everbuild Lumberjack Polyurethane Wood Glue any good? Does this seem like a reasonable plan? |
#11
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Repairing rotten barge board ends
On 26/03/2016 15:46, wrote:
On 26/03/2016 14:55, Phil L wrote: wrote: On 25/03/2016 20:29, Phil L wrote: wrote: A while ago I noticed that the end of one of the barge boards looked a bit sick - had a good look at it today and for a few inches near the end it's soft enough to poke a screwdriver through. The rest of the board, the other B.boards, and the fascias are scruffy but sound; soffits near the rotten barge board will need replacing but are otherwise OK. The question is: how to repair the barge board? The woodwork is stained brown so if I just cut the end off the replacement will be obvious and the butt join will let water in. Replacing the whole B.Board will need scaffolding and be beyond what I'm prepared to tackle. A move is possible so I don't want to spend a couple of grand getting everything replaced with plastic. This must be a standard problem - what's the answer? A couple of grand? - I don't know how much plastic is where you live, but I can get a 5m length of woodgrain effect capping board for about £25. You'll need maybe 3 to go up both sides, two corner caps and three straight joints and a small pack of brown plastic headed SS nails. Expect change out of a hundred and two people can put it up in 45 minutes The house is about 12m long, with a sizeable single storey bit that would need doing to match. As a rough guesstimate I would need nearly 40m of fascia capping, plus the bargeboards and soffits. There is no ladder access to one of the gable ends so that would need scaffolding. Overall, not something I want to tackle when most of the timber is OK. In that case, all you can do is cut out the rotten part and replace, then stain to match. Use frame sealant (not silicone) in the joint between the two OK, a plan is forming. Use a multi-tool to cut-out most of the rotten timber, with a bevel on the cut edge so that the joint will be slightly scarfed Use Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener to stabilise any dodgy wood that I can't remove. Fix some treated battens up the back of the good board to support the new timber. I'm tempted to use a PU adhesive in the joint - is Everbuild Lumberjack Polyurethane Wood Glue any good? Does this seem like a reasonable plan? You could try leaving the rotten stuff in place and impregnating it with resin, either in paste form (car body filler) or as a liquid (fibreglass repair resin). Once you've got something to cure inside the wood, the rest should be easy. I don't fancy the Ronseal Wood Hardener as I believe it's no longer a 2 part product, but probably a single pack moisture curing polyurethane. Not as effective IME |
#12
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