Apologies if this is a bit long .... looking for some advice on plug &
screw fixing.
I have a large quantity of raised garden beds ... so effectively a 100
wide brick wall.
On advice here - I will be fixing 5mm plastic spaces to maintain an
airgap (keep wood off brick) ...... end result will be:

http://tinyurl.com/zfxjsar

Also on here have purchased 152 x 7.5 concrete fixing screws
http://tinyurl.com/z9g7scr

I will counterbore holes so I can glue in wood plugs ... intend using
router to do this.

There are 2 approaches ...

Fixing option A http://tinyurl.com/zzkvu2u
Where screws go in at 90 degree, would mean I need a jig of some sort to
match angle of sloped section.

Or I simply dill in at 90 degree to surface of angled section - meaning
fixing will be angled.
Fixing option B http://tinyurl.com/hrmgkkr

This 'may' give a better fixing, and would mean no jig needed router
would go flat on sloped section.
Welcome thoughts on this.

Secondly .......
Screw is 11.1mm across head ......... so need to counter bore to 12mm
(or 1/2")

Option would be to use either a screw digger: http://tinyurl.com/zxeef7h

with plug cutter: http://tinyurl.com/jm8qv65 concern is only tool
steel, and more than 200 plugs to cut.

not sure if these would be any better: http://tinyurl.com/jjb8jnz

Welcome advice from those that have used these before.

On 16/02/2016 12:11, rick wrote:
Apologies if this is a bit long .... looking for some advice on plug &
screw fixing.
I have a large quantity of raised garden beds ... so effectively a 100
wide brick wall.
On advice here - I will be fixing 5mm plastic spaces to maintain an
airgap (keep wood off brick) ...... end result will be:

http://tinyurl.com/zfxjsar

Also on here have purchased 152 x 7.5 concrete fixing screws
http://tinyurl.com/z9g7scr

I will counterbore holes so I can glue in wood plugs ... intend using
router to do this.

There are 2 approaches ...

Fixing option A http://tinyurl.com/zzkvu2u
Where screws go in at 90 degree, would mean I need a jig of some sort to
match angle of sloped section.

Or I simply dill in at 90 degree to surface of angled section - meaning
fixing will be angled.
Fixing option B http://tinyurl.com/hrmgkkr

This 'may' give a better fixing, and would mean no jig needed router
would go flat on sloped section.
Welcome thoughts on this.

Secondly .......
Screw is 11.1mm across head ......... so need to counter bore to 12mm
(or 1/2")

Option would be to use either a screw digger: http://tinyurl.com/zxeef7h

with plug cutter: http://tinyurl.com/jm8qv65 concern is only tool
steel, and more than 200 plugs to cut.

not sure if these would be any better: http://tinyurl.com/jjb8jnz

Welcome advice from those that have used these before.

A couple of thoughts.
The nosing looks like the key, or rather the joint between the nosing
and the "sill". Add on bits, trims, or small sections generally don't
work well where wood is concerned. I would rout or circ saw a groove on
the underside instead. Neater, more effective and certainly longer
lasting IME.
I've always used dowelling instead of plugs on the basis that ramin is
infinitely longer lasting than anything you're likely to cut plugs from.
Have them a bit longer than required, hammer them in, and redefine them
as "pegs". Rustic ennit?

On 16/02/2016 15:05, stuart noble wrote:

A couple of thoughts.
The nosing looks like the key, or rather the joint between the nosing
and the "sill".


The nosing serves 3 purposes ...

# creates a drip
# neatly covers gap between top of cladding & cill
# makes leading edge the same thickness (appearance of rear edge)


I have the nosing here (also treated) ... not decided yet how to fix ...
probably waterproof PVA and pin with nail gun at 300mm centres.


My biggest 'ponder' is whether to fix with 2 screws as drawing options
.... of just one screw at centre line of brick .. every 600mm