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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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Replacing Toilet Cistern Innards
Our bathroom toilet cistern - fitted when the bathroom was refurbished
in the early 1990's and not touched since - had become very difficult to flush, and it was pretty obvious that the syphon was shot. It's a close-coupled toilet with a fairly heavy vitreous cistern, which was fitted with a conventional lever-operated flush syphon and bottom entry ball valve, and bottom entry overflow pipe - discharging to the outside world. I decided to replace the syphon with a button-operated dual-flush valve like this http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum...h+Valve/p65429 and the fill valve with one of these: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum...k+Valve/p32359 The job is now done. [I could write a book about why it took me a whole afternoon to get it apart, but I won't bore you with that!] I do have a few questions, though, for future reference - because I have another toilet in the en-suite which may get the same treatment even though its flush isn't *too* bad as yet. The dual-flush valve has its own adjustable overflow pipe, which discharges into the pan - potentially doing away with the need for an external overflow. But: (a) I already had an external overflow which would have been more trouble than it's worth to disconnect and blank the hole in the bottom on the cistern, and (b) I think I'm more likely to notice water dripping from an external overflow than dripping into the pan - and I'm on a water meter! So, what do people normally do when doing a refurb which results in 2 overflows? I've set the adjustable one on the new flush valve a bit *higher* than the original overflow pipe so that it will only discharge into the pan if the original one can't cope for some reason. Does that sound reasonable? The new fill valve is adjustable for height. It has a "critical level" indicator and the blurb says that this must be at least 1" above the overflow level. But if I do that, the top of the fill valve is too high to fit the lid! What am I supposed to do? I could potentially cut a bit off the overflow pipe - or adjust the new valve's overflow to a lower level so as to discharge into the pan rather than outside. But the overflow level would then be dangerously near to the normal fill level - so it could only over-fill by a tiny amount before overflowing. So, what's this "critical level" business all about, and what are the likely consequences of disregarding it? I imagine that a few of you fit quite a lot of toilets, and must have come across these issues. -- Cheers, Roger ____________ Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom checked. |
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