I can never seem to get the conventional copper washers used on sump and
gearbox drain plug bolts to seal 100%. Even with a brand new washer, blue
hyolmar and the correct torque, there'll always be annoying drips, it
seems.
So this time, having changed the engine oil, gearbox and transfer box
oils, I've used ordinary steel washers, but wound a couple of loops of
PTFE thread tape around the bolts before re-inserting them. No sign of a
single drip yet! But I'm just wondering (since I've never seen this
practice ever recommended anyplace) if there's anything I've overlooked
by doing this that might bite me in the arse a few hundred miles into the
future. Any ideas?

On 10/10/2015 01:00, Cursitor Doom wrote:
I can never seem to get the conventional copper washers used on sump and
gearbox drain plug bolts to seal 100%. Even with a brand new washer, blue
hyolmar and the correct torque, there'll always be annoying drips, it
seems.

Are the seats knackered?

I've never had a problem with mine (XUD and HDi engines, torqued up, no
sealant used).

"Cursitor Doom" wrote in message
...
I can never seem to get the conventional copper washers used on sump and
gearbox drain plug bolts to seal 100%. Even with a brand new washer, blue
hyolmar and the correct torque, there'll always be annoying drips, it
seems.

So this time, having changed the engine oil, gearbox and transfer box
oils, I've used ordinary steel washers, but wound a couple of loops of
PTFE thread tape around the bolts before re-inserting them. No sign of a
single drip yet! But I'm just wondering (since I've never seen this
practice ever recommended anyplace) if there's anything I've overlooked
by doing this that might bite me in the arse a few hundred miles into the
future. Any ideas?

Can't say I have ever had one drip and the garages dont either.

On 10/10/2015 06:07, Rod Speed wrote:


"Cursitor Doom" wrote in message
...
I can never seem to get the conventional copper washers used on sump and
gearbox drain plug bolts to seal 100%. Even with a brand new washer, blue
hyolmar and the correct torque, there'll always be annoying drips, it
seems.

So this time, having changed the engine oil, gearbox and transfer box
oils, I've used ordinary steel washers, but wound a couple of loops of
PTFE thread tape around the bolts before re-inserting them. No sign of a
single drip yet! But I'm just wondering (since I've never seen this
practice ever recommended anyplace) if there's anything I've overlooked
by doing this that might bite me in the arse a few hundred miles into the
future. Any ideas?

Can't say I have ever had one drip and the garages dont either.

In the old days some of my ancient cars had this problem, presumably
from scratched or distorted seats. I usually solved it with Dowty Seals
(pinched from Stores). PTFE tape used as you describe also works. There
should be no "compatibility" problem with oil but PTFE washers (as
opposed to tape) do relax at elevated temperatures. The other advice
about annealing copper washers is also valid, if they are very scored it
may also be worth lapping them smooth using emery paper on a flat surface.

Rod Speed wrote:


"Cursitor Doom" wrote in message
...
I can never seem to get the conventional copper washers used on sump and
gearbox drain plug bolts to seal 100%. Even with a brand new washer, blue
hyolmar and the correct torque, there'll always be annoying drips, it
seems.

So this time, having changed the engine oil, gearbox and transfer box
oils, I've used ordinary steel washers, but wound a couple of loops of
PTFE thread tape around the bolts before re-inserting them. No sign of a
single drip yet! But I'm just wondering (since I've never seen this
practice ever recommended anyplace) if there's anything I've overlooked
by doing this that might bite me in the arse a few hundred miles into the
future. Any ideas?

Can't say I have ever had one drip and the garages dont either.



Likewise.

Do you clean the area around the hole? If you've been using sealant you may
need to be a bit 'rough' but I normally just wipe it with a rag. I also
wipe the plug. I usually replace the washer (if there is one) but even when
I've reused them, I've not had a leak. Are you sure it isn't either old
oil left on the bottom of the sump or running down from where you've
removed the old filter? If you don't clean up any stray old oil, it doesn't
need much to drip for ages, especially if it collects somewhere like a dirt
shield.

"Brian Reay" wrote in message
...
Rod Speed wrote:


"Cursitor Doom" wrote in message
...
I can never seem to get the conventional copper washers used on sump and
gearbox drain plug bolts to seal 100%. Even with a brand new washer,
blue
hyolmar and the correct torque, there'll always be annoying drips, it
seems.

So this time, having changed the engine oil, gearbox and transfer box
oils, I've used ordinary steel washers, but wound a couple of loops of
PTFE thread tape around the bolts before re-inserting them. No sign of a
single drip yet! But I'm just wondering (since I've never seen this
practice ever recommended anyplace) if there's anything I've overlooked
by doing this that might bite me in the arse a few hundred miles into
the
future. Any ideas?

Can't say I have ever had one drip and the garages dont either.



Likewise.

Do you clean the area around the hole?

Not usually.

If you've been using sealant

I dont.

you may need to be a bit 'rough' but I normally just wipe it with a rag.

I dont bother.

I also wipe the plug.

I dont bother.

I usually replace the washer (if there is one)

I dont bother.

but even when I've reused them, I've not had a leak.

Yeah, me neither.

Are you sure it isn't either old oil left on the bottom of the sump
or running down from where you've removed the old filter?

If you don't clean up any stray old oil, it doesn't need much to
drip for ages, especially if it collects somewhere like a dirt shield.

On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 00:00:16 +0000, Cursitor Doom wrote:

I can never seem to get the conventional copper washers used on sump and
gearbox drain plug bolts to seal 100%. Even with a brand new washer,
blue hyolmar and the correct torque, there'll always be annoying drips,
it seems.

Get shot of the hylomar. Make sure you've cleaned all the residue of any
old hylomar from the sump and the plug.

I've never ever had a leak from a sump plug - even when reusing copper
washers.

In article ,
Cursitor Doom wrote:
I can never seem to get the conventional copper washers used on sump and
gearbox drain plug bolts to seal 100%. Even with a brand new washer,
blue hyolmar and the correct torque, there'll always be annoying drips,
it seems.

Heat the copper washer to red hot and plunge in water. It will then seal
with no added crap.

--
*No I haven't stolen it , I'm just a **** driver*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Jonno" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) scribbled


In article ,
Cursitor Doom wrote:
I can never seem to get the conventional copper washers used on sump
and
gearbox drain plug bolts to seal 100%. Even with a brand new washer,
blue hyolmar and the correct torque, there'll always be annoying drips,
it seems.

Heat the copper washer to red hot and plunge in water. It will then seal
with no added crap.


+1

Never needed to do anything like that, even when I didn't use a new one.

In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
Heat the copper washer to red hot and plunge in water. It will then seal
with no added crap.


+1

Never needed to do anything like that, even when I didn't use a new one.

Not surprised you don't understand basic metallurgy.

--
*When I'm not in my right mind, my left mind gets pretty crowded *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote:

Heat the copper washer to red hot and plunge
in water. It will then seal with no added crap.

+1

Never needed to do anything like that,
even when I didn't use a new one.

Not surprised you don't understand basic metallurgy.

Nothing to do with understanding basic metallurgy,
everything to do with never having had an oil leak
even when I reuse the washer repeatedly.

And it doesn’t get work hardened with just one use anyway.

And even someone as stupid as you can see using groups
google that I have told others to do that with copper so
as always you are face down in the mud with your desperate
attempt at insults any 2 year old could leave for dead.

On 11/10/2015 19:46, Rod Speed wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote:

Heat the copper washer to red hot and plunge
in water. It will then seal with no added crap.

+1

Never needed to do anything like that,
even when I didn't use a new one.

Not surprised you don't understand basic metallurgy.

Nothing to do with understanding basic metallurgy,
everything to do with never having had an oil leak
even when I reuse the washer repeatedly.

And it doesn’t get work hardened with just one use anyway.

There's me thinking that work hardening was a subject within metallurgy!

Do make your mind up.

In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
Nothing to do with understanding basic metallurgy,
everything to do with never having had an oil leak
even when I reuse the washer repeatedly.

And it doesn’t get work hardened with just one use anyway.

They are often hardened by the manufacturing process or whatever.

Get a couple of new ones and heat treat one then compare.

It's not of interest that you've not had a leak. The OP has.

--
*You're just jealous because the voices only talk to me *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sunday, 11 October 2015 19:46:17 UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote:

Heat the copper washer to red hot and plunge
in water. It will then seal with no added crap.

+1

Never needed to do anything like that,
even when I didn't use a new one.

Not surprised you don't understand basic metallurgy.

Nothing to do with understanding basic metallurgy,
everything to do with never having had an oil leak
even when I reuse the washer repeatedly.

And it doesn't get work hardened with just one use anyway.

And even someone as stupid as you can see using groups
google that I have told others to do that with copper so
as always you are face down in the mud with your desperate
attempt at insults any 2 year old could leave for dead.


don't feed the troll

In article , Cursitor Doom
writes
I can never seem to get the conventional copper washers used on sump and
gearbox drain plug bolts to seal 100%. Even with a brand new washer, blue
hyolmar and the correct torque, there'll always be annoying drips, it
seems.
So this time, having changed the engine oil, gearbox and transfer box
oils, I've used ordinary steel washers, but wound a couple of loops of
PTFE thread tape around the bolts before re-inserting them. No sign of a
single drip yet! But I'm just wondering (since I've never seen this
practice ever recommended anyplace) if there's anything I've overlooked
by doing this that might bite me in the arse a few hundred miles into the
future. Any ideas?
Not a Land Rover by any chance? The leaks are a design feature so that
when they stop you know it's empty.
--
bert

On Sun, 11 Oct 2015 20:26:15 +0100, bert wrote:

Not a Land Rover by any chance? The leaks are a design feature so that
when they stop you know it's empty.

Yes, it is. So that explains it..