We're going to have the bathroom ceiling insulated & replastered, &
I'm thinking of having an extractor fan put in at the same time. I
asked our plumber about it last time he was here & he recommended
ducting it out the roof (the bathroom is in an offshot under a sloped
roof, with a partly sloped ceiling to match) & said it was a job for a
roofer or general builder rather than him. (He subcontracted a roofer
to deal with the top of the balanced flue when he replaced our
boiler.)

Anyone else tried this? Any specific recommendations for fans, ducts,
etc.?

AIUI, there are a couple of ways to control the fan: from the light
switch with a timer running after the light is switched off, & with an
automatic humidistat. Any recommendations on that?

Thanks.

On 15/09/15 10:37, Adam Funk wrote:
We're going to have the bathroom ceiling insulated & replastered, &
I'm thinking of having an extractor fan put in at the same time. I
asked our plumber about it last time he was here & he recommended
ducting it out the roof (the bathroom is in an offshot under a sloped
roof, with a partly sloped ceiling to match) & said it was a job for a
roofer or general builder rather than him. (He subcontracted a roofer
to deal with the top of the balanced flue when he replaced our
boiler.)

Anyone else tried this? Any specific recommendations for fans, ducts,
etc.?

Soler Palau for the fan, BES for the ducting (they do just about every
adaptor you'll ever need). Roofing store for a roof vent that suits your
tiles.

I took mine out through a soffit vent, but otherwise the same as what
you are doing. The shower room has a tile vent already installed as
there's no soffit there.

AIUI, there are a couple of ways to control the fan: from the light
switch with a timer running after the light is switched off, & with an
automatic humidistat. Any recommendations on that?

Thanks.

Tim Watts wrote:

Soler Palau for the fan, BES for the ducting (they do just about every
adaptor you'll ever need). Roofing store for a roof vent that suits your
tiles.

I took mine out through a soffit vent, but otherwise the same as what
you are doing. The shower room has a tile vent already installed as
there's no soffit there.

Agreed. After recommendation here, I bought one of these:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products...ENTslashT.html

Admittedly not cheap, but I was amazed by how quiet it was, I had
to feel the air to be sure it was running. The airflow is far
better than the (failed) cheap one it replaced. It can push-fit
into the pipework, and is readily removable for cleaning.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

Adam Funk wrote:
We're going to have the bathroom ceiling insulated & replastered, &
I'm thinking of having an extractor fan put in at the same time. I
asked our plumber about it last time he was here & he recommended
ducting it out the roof (the bathroom is in an offshot under a sloped
roof, with a partly sloped ceiling to match) & said it was a job for a
roofer or general builder rather than him. (He subcontracted a roofer
to deal with the top of the balanced flue when he replaced our
boiler.)

Anyone else tried this? Any specific recommendations for fans, ducts,
etc.?

TLC have a ventilation calculator:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technica...tilation4.html
Their linked page on ducting is handy too - the longer the duct, the larger
fan you need to push air along it.

It's worth looking at an inline fan - they can be much more powerful than
a ceiling mounted one, and quieter too.

You might also need a condensation drain, depending on how it's set up.
Don't forget to consider how you'll prevent wind blowing through the duct.

AIUI, there are a couple of ways to control the fan: from the light
switch with a timer running after the light is switched off, & with an
automatic humidistat. Any recommendations on that?

Some of them have fast and slow modes. This can be an extra switch, or the
humidistat. Humidistats are handy, but a pain if you get false triggering
and there's no way to turn the fan off (eg somebody has to leave at 5am and
wants to have a shower without waking the house)

Theo

On 15/09/2015 14:22, Theo Markettos wrote:
but a pain if you get false triggering
and there's no way to turn the fan off (eg somebody has to leave at 5am and
wants to have a shower without waking the house


Use the isolator switch if needs be.

On 15/09/2015 10:37, Adam Funk wrote:
We're going to have the bathroom ceiling insulated & replastered, &
I'm thinking of having an extractor fan put in at the same time. I
asked our plumber about it last time he was here & he recommended
ducting it out the roof (the bathroom is in an offshot under a sloped
roof, with a partly sloped ceiling to match) & said it was a job for a
roofer or general builder rather than him. (He subcontracted a roofer
to deal with the top of the balanced flue when he replaced our
boiler.)

Anyone else tried this? Any specific recommendations for fans, ducts,
etc.?

AIUI, there are a couple of ways to control the fan: from the light
switch with a timer running after the light is switched off, & with an
automatic humidistat. Any recommendations on that?

My preference is for an inline ducted fan, so you can stick the noisy
bit out of the room. Controlled by a humidistat.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

ss wrote:
Use the isolator switch if needs be.

Is it compulsory to have an isolator switch, and put it somewhere
accessible? If the fan is on the ceiling there's no chance of accidental
contact.

theo

In message , Theo Markettos
writes
Adam Funk wrote:
We're going to have the bathroom ceiling insulated & replastered, &
I'm thinking of having an extractor fan put in at the same time. I
asked our plumber about it last time he was here & he recommended
ducting it out the roof (the bathroom is in an offshot under a sloped
roof, with a partly sloped ceiling to match) & said it was a job for a
roofer or general builder rather than him. (He subcontracted a roofer
to deal with the top of the balanced flue when he replaced our
boiler.)

Anyone else tried this? Any specific recommendations for fans, ducts,
etc.?

TLC have a ventilation calculator:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technica...tilation4.html
Their linked page on ducting is handy too - the longer the duct, the larger
fan you need to push air along it.

It's worth looking at an inline fan - they can be much more powerful than
a ceiling mounted one, and quieter too.

You might also need a condensation drain, depending on how it's set up.
Don't forget to consider how you'll prevent wind blowing through the duct.


In the old house I put an inline one in the loft, with flexible ducting,
connected to a bit of vertical soil pipe exiting through the roof with a
weathering slate.

I didn't put in a condenste trap IIRC, but i did have a dip in the pipe
between the fan and the exit pipe to stop any running back to the fan.


AIUI, there are a couple of ways to control the fan: from the light
switch with a timer running after the light is switched off, & with an
automatic humidistat. Any recommendations on that?

Some of them have fast and slow modes. This can be an extra switch, or the
humidistat. Humidistats are handy, but a pain if you get false triggering
and there's no way to turn the fan off (eg somebody has to leave at 5am and
wants to have a shower without waking the house)

I had a remote humidistat in the bathroom - which worked pretty well
once tweaked, though occasionally in very rainy weather it would
trigger.You can get more expensive ones that can accommodate the change
in RH due to temp drop t night better I think.

I had a sperate switch to manually switch on, and an easily accessible
isolator outside if I wanted to turn it ooff when it had triggered.
--
Chris French

Theo Markettos wrote:

Humidistats are handy, but a pain if you get false triggering
and there's no way to turn the fan off (eg somebody has to leave at 5am and
wants to have a shower without waking the house)

With the Soler Palau fan, nobody is going to hear it.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

On 15 Sep 2015, Adam Funk grunted:

We're going to have the bathroom ceiling insulated & replastered, &
I'm thinking of having an extractor fan put in at the same time. I
asked our plumber about it last time he was here & he recommended
ducting it out the roof (the bathroom is in an offshot under a sloped
roof, with a partly sloped ceiling to match

In addition to what others have advised, I'd say avoid going through the
roof if you possibly can - that's always going to present the possibility
of rainwater leaks at some point in the future, plus the chances of
condensate running back down the ducting and into the fan or room. If you
can get the ducting to a soffit or gable end wall (and have the ducting
sloped toward it) that's generally a much better bet.

If it's definitely not physically feasible, it wouldn't stop me from
installing it through the roof though.

--
David

Chris J Dixon wrote:

With the Soler Palau fan, nobody is going to hear it.

With their wall mounted designs the have rubber motor mountings and
integral back-flaps, do the inline ones have that? Any need to worry
about how it's mounted to prevent noise transmission?

On 15/09/2015 19:49, Theo Markettos wrote:
ss wrote:
Use the isolator switch if needs be.

Is it compulsory to have an isolator switch, and put it somewhere
accessible? If the fan is on the ceiling there's no chance of accidental
contact.

You may want to maintain the fan... easier with the lights on as well,
so an isolator is certainly a good idea.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 15/09/2015 22:34, Chris French wrote:
In message , Theo Markettos
writes
Adam Funk wrote:
We're going to have the bathroom ceiling insulated & replastered, &
I'm thinking of having an extractor fan put in at the same time. I
asked our plumber about it last time he was here & he recommended
ducting it out the roof (the bathroom is in an offshot under a sloped
roof, with a partly sloped ceiling to match) & said it was a job for a
roofer or general builder rather than him. (He subcontracted a roofer
to deal with the top of the balanced flue when he replaced our
boiler.)

Anyone else tried this? Any specific recommendations for fans, ducts,
etc.?

TLC have a ventilation calculator:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technica...tilation4.html
Their linked page on ducting is handy too - the longer the duct, the
larger
fan you need to push air along it.

It's worth looking at an inline fan - they can be much more powerful than
a ceiling mounted one, and quieter too.

You might also need a condensation drain, depending on how it's set up.
Don't forget to consider how you'll prevent wind blowing through the
duct.


In the old house I put an inline one in the loft, with flexible ducting,
connected to a bit of vertical soil pipe exiting through the roof with a
weathering slate.

I didn't put in a condenste trap IIRC, but i did have a dip in the pipe
between the fan and the exit pipe to stop any running back to the fan.


AIUI, there are a couple of ways to control the fan: from the light
switch with a timer running after the light is switched off, & with an
automatic humidistat. Any recommendations on that?

Some of them have fast and slow modes. This can be an extra switch,
or the
humidistat. Humidistats are handy, but a pain if you get false
triggering
and there's no way to turn the fan off (eg somebody has to leave at
5am and
wants to have a shower without waking the house)

I had a remote humidistat in the bathroom - which worked pretty well
once tweaked, though occasionally in very rainy weather it would
trigger.You can get more expensive ones that can accommodate the change
in RH due to temp drop t night better I think.

If you have a remote humidistat then they normally have a sensitivity
knob on them. Hence if you do get a false run due to weather etc, you
can just tweak the sensitivity with the knob.


I had a sperate switch to manually switch on, and an easily accessible
isolator outside if I wanted to turn it ooff when it had triggered.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Andy Burns wrote:

Chris J Dixon wrote:

With the Soler Palau fan, nobody is going to hear it.

With their wall mounted designs the have rubber motor mountings and
integral back-flaps, do the inline ones have that? Any need to worry
about how it's mounted to prevent noise transmission?

Mine is screwed to a board across a couple of joists, and there
seems to be no discernable direct transmission. The mounting
bracket includes some rubber isolation material.

There is no integral shutter. I used
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SLCM130.html
but I'm sure others are available.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

In message , John
Rumm writes
On 15/09/2015 22:34, Chris French wrote:
I had a remote humidistat in the bathroom - which worked pretty well
once tweaked, though occasionally in very rainy weather it would
trigger.You can get more expensive ones that can accommodate the change
in RH due to temp drop t night better I think.

If you have a remote humidistat then they normally have a sensitivity
knob on them. Hence if you do get a false run due to weather etc, you
can just tweak the sensitivity with the knob.


Yes, mine was like that. But I found that if I fiddled with it on the
odd occasions it came on when not required then it wasn't quite right
for normal operation (it was really only when it was raining fairly
steadily/heavily at night and at the right temp that it would happen)
--
Chris French

On Wednesday, 16 September 2015 08:23:20 UTC+1, Lobster wrote:
On 15 Sep 2015, Adam Funk grunted:

We're going to have the bathroom ceiling insulated & replastered, &
I'm thinking of having an extractor fan put in at the same time. I
asked our plumber about it last time he was here & he recommended
ducting it out the roof (the bathroom is in an offshot under a sloped
roof, with a partly sloped ceiling to match

In addition to what others have advised, I'd say avoid going through the
roof if you possibly can

+1. A simple fan straight out through the wall is usually fine.

Noise reduction: mount the case on rubber bits, and the motor on rubber bits. If you don't mind the price, get a bigger fan than strictly needed.

Control: automated control is annoying. A manual switch works fine IME. But that is in a dehumidified situation where the fan doesn't need to run very frequently.

And finally, if you can use an alternative such as locking the window a quarter inch ajar or opening it, do. Most bathroom fans simply don't need to exist.


NT

On 2015-09-16, wrote:


And finally, if you can use an alternative such as locking the
window a quarter inch ajar or opening it, do. Most bathroom fans
simply don't need to exist.

That's the system we've been using! But the condensation isn't
getting cleared fast enough, & it's cold during the winter.

On Thursday, 17 September 2015 10:45:06 UTC+1, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2015-09-16, nt wrote:


And finally, if you can use an alternative such as locking the
window a quarter inch ajar or opening it, do. Most bathroom fans
simply don't need to exist.

That's the system we've been using! But the condensation isn't
getting cleared fast enough, & it's cold during the winter.

.... exactly the same is true with a fan. As condensation clearers the average bathroom fan is not much cop. And both work by swapping warm indoor air for cold outdoor.


NT

In article , Theo Markettos
writes
ss wrote:
Use the isolator switch if needs be.

Is it compulsory to have an isolator switch, and put it somewhere
accessible? If the fan is on the ceiling there's no chance of accidental
contact.

theo
Yes - according to the instructions I received with mine - Manrose high
speed in line fan. Two pole for non-timed, 3 pole for timed. This is
belt and braces to ensure when it's off it really is off.
Fan power requirement depends on length of ducting - mine was too long
for the fan that was fitted originally.
OP might like to get consider ceiling vent and light. In line gate can
be fitted to prevent blow back though I've never experienced any
problem.
100mm normally enough but you can go to 125 or even 150.
Have a look at

www.extractorfanworld.co.uk

Useful place to start

One thing about them their warranty did say fan had to be fitted by
qualified electrician and they would require copy of certificate in the
event of a claim - which is a load of ********.
--
bert

On 17/09/2015 13:15, wrote:
On Thursday, 17 September 2015 10:45:06 UTC+1, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2015-09-16, nt wrote:


And finally, if you can use an alternative such as locking the
window a quarter inch ajar or opening it, do. Most bathroom fans
simply don't need to exist.

That's the system we've been using! But the condensation isn't
getting cleared fast enough, & it's cold during the winter.

... exactly the same is true with a fan.
As condensation clearers the
average bathroom fan is not much cop.

That has not been my experience. Having fitted several over the years
the difference between passive ventilation and forced for clearing hot
wet air out of the room is quite marked. I would go so far as to say
that in rooms with a decent shower, a fan is almost essential.

And both work by swapping warm
indoor air for cold outdoor.

They do but in different ways. A window will allow air exchange in two
directions, warm air out and cold air directly in. That tends to make
for a bathroom that gets cold very quickly in the winter. With a fan,
the ventilation is more controlled and only occurs when required rather
than all the time. Also the ingress of cold air is not directly into the
one room, but is made up from seepage elsewhere all around the house. So
while heat is still lost, it does not result in the cooling effect being
felt all in one room.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message , John
Rumm writes
On 17/09/2015 13:15, wrote:
On Thursday, 17 September 2015 10:45:06 UTC+1, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2015-09-16, nt wrote:


And finally, if you can use an alternative such as locking the
window a quarter inch ajar or opening it, do. Most bathroom fans
simply don't need to exist.

That's the system we've been using! But the condensation isn't
getting cleared fast enough, & it's cold during the winter.

... exactly the same is true with a fan.
As condensation clearers the
average bathroom fan is not much cop.

That has not been my experience. Having fitted several over the years
the difference between passive ventilation and forced for clearing hot
wet air out of the room is quite marked. I would go so far as to say
that in rooms with a decent shower, a fan is almost essential.

Agreed, having put a fan in the refitted bathroom in the old house I
really miss having one in the currrent bathroom.

And both work by swapping warm
indoor air for cold outdoor.

They do but in different ways. A window will allow air exchange in two
directions, warm air out and cold air directly in. That tends to make
for a bathroom that gets cold very quickly in the winter. With a fan,
the ventilation is more controlled and only occurs when required rather
than all the time. Also the ingress of cold air is not directly into
the one room, but is made up from seepage elsewhere all around the
house. So while heat is still lost, it does not result in the cooling
effect being felt all in one room.

Quite, opening the window just leads to a cold bathroom for much of the
year. and of course it either gets left open to long, or doesn't get
opened when it could be useful to be so.


--
Chris French

On Thursday, 17 September 2015 17:32:40 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 17/09/2015 13:15, nt wrote:
On Thursday, 17 September 2015 10:45:06 UTC+1, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2015-09-16, nt wrote:


And finally, if you can use an alternative such as locking the
window a quarter inch ajar or opening it, do. Most bathroom fans
simply don't need to exist.

That's the system we've been using! But the condensation isn't
getting cleared fast enough, & it's cold during the winter.

... exactly the same is true with a fan.
As condensation clearers the
average bathroom fan is not much cop.

That has not been my experience. Having fitted several over the years
the difference between passive ventilation and forced for clearing hot
wet air out of the room is quite marked. I would go so far as to say
that in rooms with a decent shower, a fan is almost essential.

And both work by swapping warm
indoor air for cold outdoor.

They do but in different ways. A window will allow air exchange in two
directions, warm air out and cold air directly in. That tends to make
for a bathroom that gets cold very quickly in the winter. With a fan,
the ventilation is more controlled and only occurs when required rather
than all the time.

that point is equally true of the window

Also the ingress of cold air is not directly into the
one room, but is made up from seepage elsewhere all around the house. So
while heat is still lost, it does not result in the cooling effect being
felt all in one room.

I guess either setup can create its own issues. Generally I prefer a window a fraction of an inch open, locked there. Fans vary greatly in their air moving ability, too many are too feeble to be of much use.


NT

On 17/09/2015 17:32, John Rumm wrote:
On 17/09/2015 13:15, wrote:
On Thursday, 17 September 2015 10:45:06 UTC+1, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2015-09-16, nt wrote:


And finally, if you can use an alternative such as locking the
window a quarter inch ajar or opening it, do. Most bathroom fans
simply don't need to exist.

That's the system we've been using! But the condensation isn't
getting cleared fast enough, & it's cold during the winter.

... exactly the same is true with a fan.
As condensation clearers the
average bathroom fan is not much cop.

That has not been my experience. Having fitted several over the years
the difference between passive ventilation and forced for clearing hot
wet air out of the room is quite marked. I would go so far as to say
that in rooms with a decent shower, a fan is almost essential.

Agreed - when we moved into this house there was a good shower but no
fan. We fitted a fan with humidistat almost immediately - it doesn't
make a big difference to the amount of steam when you're in the shower,
but coming home from work several hours later the bathroom is completely
dry, whereas before there would still be condensation.


And both work by swapping warm
indoor air for cold outdoor.

They do but in different ways. A window will allow air exchange in two
directions, warm air out and cold air directly in. That tends to make
for a bathroom that gets cold very quickly in the winter. With a fan,
the ventilation is more controlled and only occurs when required rather
than all the time. Also the ingress of cold air is not directly into the
one room, but is made up from seepage elsewhere all around the house. So
while heat is still lost, it does not result in the cooling effect being
felt all in one room.

The other problem with opening the window I find is that the tiled walls
cool down very quickly and form condensation more readily. With the fan
most of the steam stays airborne until the fan sucks it out.

On 18/09/2015 01:11, wrote:

I guess either setup can create its own issues. Generally I prefer a
window a fraction of an inch open, locked there. Fans vary greatly in
their air moving ability, too many are too feeble to be of much use.

Put it this way, our shower room currently has the window open a couple
of inches. You shower and it takes ten mins for the steam to clear, and
the walls are dripping wet for hours. Once I stick I fan in I am
expecting that to change dramatically.

(to be fair the problem has only really been really noticeable since
upgrading the shower to mains pressure)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 18/09/15 22:47, John Rumm wrote:
On 18/09/2015 01:11, wrote:

I guess either setup can create its own issues. Generally I prefer a
window a fraction of an inch open, locked there. Fans vary greatly in
their air moving ability, too many are too feeble to be of much use.

Put it this way, our shower room currently has the window open a couple
of inches. You shower and it takes ten mins for the steam to clear, and
the walls are dripping wet for hours. Once I stick I fan in I am
expecting that to change dramatically.

(to be fair the problem has only really been really noticeable since
upgrading the shower to mains pressure)



IIRC building regs are now mandating fans for bathrooms that have
windows (obviously new builds, not retro).

I have one because my bathroom is islanded - and it does keep the place
clear, and contains the fug when someone drops a smelly one!

Isolate it (SWMBO does not like the noise[1] in the bath) and the loo
cistern is dripping in short order.

[1] The fan makes a small amount of noise, over the kitchen ceiling
(it's bolted to the joists). However, the vent I chose makes a bit of
suction noise. A "mushroom" type you see in hotels would be quieter.

"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 17/09/2015 13:15, wrote:
On Thursday, 17 September 2015 10:45:06 UTC+1, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2015-09-16, nt wrote:


And finally, if you can use an alternative such as locking the
window a quarter inch ajar or opening it, do. Most bathroom fans
simply don't need to exist.

That's the system we've been using! But the condensation isn't
getting cleared fast enough, & it's cold during the winter.

... exactly the same is true with a fan.
As condensation clearers the
average bathroom fan is not much cop.

That has not been my experience. Having fitted several over the years the
difference between passive ventilation and forced for clearing hot wet air
out of the room is quite marked. I would go so far as to say that in rooms
with a decent shower, a fan is almost essential.

And both work by swapping warm
indoor air for cold outdoor.

They do but in different ways. A window will allow air exchange in two
directions, warm air out and cold air directly in. That tends to make for
a bathroom that gets cold very quickly in the winter. With a fan, the
ventilation is more controlled and only occurs when required rather than
all the time. Also the ingress of cold air is not directly into the one
room, but is made up from seepage elsewhere all around the house. So while
heat is still lost, it does not result in the cooling effect being felt
all in one room.

A fan adds aids air room changes to the whole house (the seepage) and so is
helpful.

Opening a window is so 1970s.



--
Adam

On Friday, 18 September 2015 22:47:25 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 18/09/2015 01:11, nt wrote:

I guess either setup can create its own issues. Generally I prefer a
window a fraction of an inch open, locked there. Fans vary greatly in
their air moving ability, too many are too feeble to be of much use.

Put it this way, our shower room currently has the window open a couple
of inches. You shower and it takes ten mins for the steam to clear, and
the walls are dripping wet for hours. Once I stick I fan in I am
expecting that to change dramatically.

If you put a typical fan in, after 10 mins it'll still be wet. I expect you'll do something better, most don't.

10 mins of window 2" open is far too long IME, bound to make it cold.


NT

On 19/09/2015 16:35, wrote:
On Friday, 18 September 2015 22:47:25 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 18/09/2015 01:11, nt wrote:

I guess either setup can create its own issues. Generally I
prefer a window a fraction of an inch open, locked there. Fans
vary greatly in their air moving ability, too many are too feeble
to be of much use.

Put it this way, our shower room currently has the window open a
couple of inches. You shower and it takes ten mins for the steam to
clear, and the walls are dripping wet for hours. Once I stick I fan
in I am expecting that to change dramatically.

If you put a typical fan in, after 10 mins it'll still be wet. I
expect you'll do something better, most don't.

In my last place (smallish bathroom - 7' 6' ish) I used a manrose 4"
through wall fan with built in humidistat. That was "ok" - it made quite
a noticeable difference. The only downside was that its slightly noisy
being only 4". Did the same in the loft shower room and it worked better
still there (smaller room, better insulated) - although the back draft
shutter used to flap in the wind on that one.

In other peoples places I have used a 5" ducted fan, and those wwere
better.

So I will go for a 5 or 6" ducted fan in this one since although the
room is not that large, its very tall 10' so there is quite a volume
of air to shift.

(For good results with ducted fans, you can get combined light fittings
/ fan intakes that can go right over a shower. )

10 mins of window 2" open is far too long IME, bound to make it
cold.

The window in permanently open at the moment, but it has little effect
on clearing the moisture. Its also rather too difficult to open and
close at the moment since you have to climb into the windowsill to do it!

(I will also trim the bottom of the shower room door to allow a little
more air into the room from there).


--
Cheers,

John.

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On 2015-09-19, John Rumm wrote:

On 19/09/2015 16:35, wrote:
On Friday, 18 September 2015 22:47:25 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 18/09/2015 01:11, nt wrote:

I guess either setup can create its own issues. Generally I
prefer a window a fraction of an inch open, locked there. Fans
vary greatly in their air moving ability, too many are too feeble
to be of much use.

Put it this way, our shower room currently has the window open a
couple of inches. You shower and it takes ten mins for the steam to
clear, and the walls are dripping wet for hours. Once I stick I fan
in I am expecting that to change dramatically.

If you put a typical fan in, after 10 mins it'll still be wet. I
expect you'll do something better, most don't.

In my last place (smallish bathroom - 7' 6' ish) I used a manrose 4"
through wall fan with built in humidistat. That was "ok" - it made quite
a noticeable difference. The only downside was that its slightly noisy
being only 4". Did the same in the loft shower room and it worked better
still there (smaller room, better insulated) - although the back draft
shutter used to flap in the wind on that one.

In other peoples places I have used a 5" ducted fan, and those wwere
better.

So I will go for a 5 or 6" ducted fan in this one since although the
room is not that large, its very tall 10' so there is quite a volume
of air to shift.

(For good results with ducted fans, you can get combined light fittings
/ fan intakes that can go right over a shower. )

10 mins of window 2" open is far too long IME, bound to make it
cold.

The window in permanently open at the moment, but it has little effect
on clearing the moisture. Its also rather too difficult to open and
close at the moment since you have to climb into the windowsill to do it!

(I will also trim the bottom of the shower room door to allow a little
more air into the room from there).

Thanks for reporting that.

On 2015-09-15, Chris J Dixon wrote:

Tim Watts wrote:

Soler Palau for the fan, BES for the ducting (they do just about every
adaptor you'll ever need). Roofing store for a roof vent that suits your
tiles.

I took mine out through a soffit vent, but otherwise the same as what
you are doing. The shower room has a tile vent already installed as
there's no soffit there.

Agreed. After recommendation here, I bought one of these:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products...ENTslashT.html

Admittedly not cheap, but I was amazed by how quiet it was, I had
to feel the air to be sure it was running. The airflow is far
better than the (failed) cheap one it replaced. It can push-fit
into the pipework, and is readily removable for cleaning.

Thanks.

On 2015-09-15, John Rumm wrote:

On 15/09/2015 10:37, Adam Funk wrote:
We're going to have the bathroom ceiling insulated & replastered, &
I'm thinking of having an extractor fan put in at the same time. I
asked our plumber about it last time he was here & he recommended
ducting it out the roof (the bathroom is in an offshot under a sloped
roof, with a partly sloped ceiling to match) & said it was a job for a
roofer or general builder rather than him. (He subcontracted a roofer
to deal with the top of the balanced flue when he replaced our
boiler.)

Anyone else tried this? Any specific recommendations for fans, ducts,
etc.?

AIUI, there are a couple of ways to control the fan: from the light
switch with a timer running after the light is switched off, & with an
automatic humidistat. Any recommendations on that?

My preference is for an inline ducted fan, so you can stick the noisy
bit out of the room. Controlled by a humidistat.

Does the humidistat not make it come on occasionally at seemingly
random times?

On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 at 11:00:09 AM UTC+1, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2015-09-15, John Rumm wrote:

On 15/09/2015 10:37, Adam Funk wrote:
We're going to have the bathroom ceiling insulated & replastered, &
I'm thinking of having an extractor fan put in at the same time. I
asked our plumber about it last time he was here & he recommended
ducting it out the roof (the bathroom is in an offshot under a sloped
roof, with a partly sloped ceiling to match) & said it was a job for a
roofer or general builder rather than him. (He subcontracted a roofer
to deal with the top of the balanced flue when he replaced our
boiler.)

Anyone else tried this? Any specific recommendations for fans, ducts,
etc.?

AIUI, there are a couple of ways to control the fan: from the light
switch with a timer running after the light is switched off, & with an
automatic humidistat. Any recommendations on that?

My preference is for an inline ducted fan, so you can stick the noisy
bit out of the room. Controlled by a humidistat.

Does the humidistat not make it come on occasionally at seemingly
random times?

I have that setup. At the level I set, it comes on and off a few times during and after a shower, which makes sense as it clears the moist air, switches off, moisture builds up again, switches back on, and so on.

You might get lots of spurious activation if set too marginally. Only spurious running I had was when I opened the window just after it had rained, and the moist air from outside activated it.

Simon.

On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 at 11:00:07 AM UTC+1, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2015-09-15, Chris J Dixon wrote:

Tim Watts wrote:

Soler Palau for the fan, BES for the ducting (they do just about every
adaptor you'll ever need). Roofing store for a roof vent that suits your
tiles.

I took mine out through a soffit vent, but otherwise the same as what
you are doing. The shower room has a tile vent already installed as
there's no soffit there.

Agreed. After recommendation here, I bought one of these:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products...ENTslashT.html

Admittedly not cheap, but I was amazed by how quiet it was, I had
to feel the air to be sure it was running. The airflow is far
better than the (failed) cheap one it replaced. It can push-fit
into the pipework, and is readily removable for cleaning.

Thanks.

I have the silent version for the downstairs toilet (fan in kitchen behind cupboards), and also the non-silent version (in the loft). Both pretty quiet, but with the downstairs one, most of the noise is air noise on the grille.

Annoyingly, when I turn the fan speed control down, the fan gets noisier. I will have to change the chopper speed controller for a DIY capacitor based circuit ...

Simon.

On 29/09/2015 10:56, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2015-09-15, John Rumm wrote:

On 15/09/2015 10:37, Adam Funk wrote:
We're going to have the bathroom ceiling insulated & replastered, &
I'm thinking of having an extractor fan put in at the same time. I
asked our plumber about it last time he was here & he recommended
ducting it out the roof (the bathroom is in an offshot under a sloped
roof, with a partly sloped ceiling to match) & said it was a job for a
roofer or general builder rather than him. (He subcontracted a roofer
to deal with the top of the balanced flue when he replaced our
boiler.)

Anyone else tried this? Any specific recommendations for fans, ducts,
etc.?

AIUI, there are a couple of ways to control the fan: from the light
switch with a timer running after the light is switched off, & with an
automatic humidistat. Any recommendations on that?

My preference is for an inline ducted fan, so you can stick the noisy
bit out of the room. Controlled by a humidistat.

Does the humidistat not make it come on occasionally at seemingly
random times?

It can do if you get a very damp day. So long as there is a knob to
hand, you can just tweak it down until it goes off.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Thursday, October 1, 2015 at 3:57:58 AM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 29/09/2015 10:56, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2015-09-15, John Rumm wrote:

On 15/09/2015 10:37, Adam Funk wrote:
We're going to have the bathroom ceiling insulated & replastered, &
I'm thinking of having an extractor fan put in at the same time. I
asked our plumber about it last time he was here & he recommended
ducting it out the roof (the bathroom is in an offshot under a sloped
roof, with a partly sloped ceiling to match) & said it was a job for a
roofer or general builder rather than him. (He subcontracted a roofer
to deal with the top of the balanced flue when he replaced our
boiler.)

Anyone else tried this? Any specific recommendations for fans, ducts,
etc.?

AIUI, there are a couple of ways to control the fan: from the light
switch with a timer running after the light is switched off, & with an
automatic humidistat. Any recommendations on that?

My preference is for an inline ducted fan, so you can stick the noisy
bit out of the room. Controlled by a humidistat.

Does the humidistat not make it come on occasionally at seemingly
random times?

It can do if you get a very damp day. So long as there is a knob to
hand, you can just tweak it down until it goes off.


Yes, but I have to stand on the toilet seat to reach it !

Simon.

On 01/10/2015 13:14, sm_jamieson wrote:
On Thursday, October 1, 2015 at 3:57:58 AM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 29/09/2015 10:56, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2015-09-15, John Rumm wrote:

On 15/09/2015 10:37, Adam Funk wrote:
We're going to have the bathroom ceiling insulated & replastered, &
I'm thinking of having an extractor fan put in at the same time. I
asked our plumber about it last time he was here & he recommended
ducting it out the roof (the bathroom is in an offshot under a sloped
roof, with a partly sloped ceiling to match) & said it was a job for a
roofer or general builder rather than him. (He subcontracted a roofer
to deal with the top of the balanced flue when he replaced our
boiler.)

Anyone else tried this? Any specific recommendations for fans, ducts,
etc.?

AIUI, there are a couple of ways to control the fan: from the light
switch with a timer running after the light is switched off, & with an
automatic humidistat. Any recommendations on that?

My preference is for an inline ducted fan, so you can stick the noisy
bit out of the room. Controlled by a humidistat.

Does the humidistat not make it come on occasionally at seemingly
random times?

It can do if you get a very damp day. So long as there is a knob to
hand, you can just tweak it down until it goes off.


Yes, but I have to stand on the toilet seat to reach it !

Using a remote and stand alone humidistat has much to be said for it ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/