I have some wooden outbuilding windows that were installed c. 1976
where the windows are rotting, but the frame is fine. I would much
rather replace just the window, but am not set up for joinery and
the windows do not justify paying for it. I am probably out of luck,
but does have anyone any suggestions on a way to search the Web or
suitable places to look in the Cambridge area?

At that time, they were called 'storm' windows - i.e. they have the
outside overlapping by 1 cm all round.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

On 04/09/15 20:29, Nick Maclaren wrote:
I have some wooden outbuilding windows that were installed c. 1976
where the windows are rotting, but the frame is fine. I would much
rather replace just the window, but am not set up for joinery and
the windows do not justify paying for it. I am probably out of luck,
but does have anyone any suggestions on a way to search the Web or
suitable places to look in the Cambridge area?

At that time, they were called 'storm' windows - i.e. they have the
outside overlapping by 1 cm all round.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

We did all this a few years ago for the house with the following result...

You can phone Soham joinery for quotes, you can phone other people for
quotes some of which will be ridiculous (in the £1000s) and then you can
face reality and end up with uPVC which while not actually cheap is at
least affordable.

If that's not appropriate for this application then . . . at least get a
quote from Soham joinery who at least know what they are doing.

PB

In article ,
Paul Bird wrote:

We did all this a few years ago for the house with the following result...

You can phone Soham joinery for quotes, you can phone other people for
quotes some of which will be ridiculous (in the £1000s) and then you can
face reality and end up with uPVC which while not actually cheap is at
least affordable.

If that's not appropriate for this application then . . . at least get a
quote from Soham joinery who at least know what they are doing.

Thanks for your information. I was afraid of that. But uPVC
wouldn't solve anything, because it would be exactly as much hassle
as replacing the windows and frames with wood. I might just use
borax inserts and fill the rotten bits - it depends on which is easier.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

On Friday, 4 September 2015 20:29:48 UTC+1, Nick Maclaren wrote:
I have some wooden outbuilding windows that were installed c. 1976
where the windows are rotting, but the frame is fine. I would much
rather replace just the window, but am not set up for joinery and
the windows do not justify paying for it. I am probably out of luck,
but does have anyone any suggestions on a way to search the Web or
suitable places to look in the Cambridge area?

At that time, they were called 'storm' windows - i.e. they have the
outside overlapping by 1 cm all round.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Make your own windows.
Simple DIY project for a shed.
All you need is saw, hammer, drill and tape measure.
Cost maybe a tenner if you can reuse the glass.

Cut some polycarbonate sheet to size and screw over existing window frame. for ventilation leave the door open when you are in there !

adds to security and is pretty vandal proof too

--
Posted via WizPar!
http://www.wizpar.com/

On 05/09/15 09:21, peter wrote:
Cut some polycarbonate sheet to size and screw over existing window frame. for ventilation leave the door open when you are in there !

adds to security and is pretty vandal proof too

Well said, living on a busy street with very thin Edwardian glass I've
had the same thought often but never done anything about it. Would also
cut down the traffic noise. There's a place in Cherry Hinton that sells
that sort of thing. http://www.edplastics.co.uk/

PB

In article ,
(Nick Maclaren) wrote:

In article ,
Paul Bird wrote:

We did all this a few years ago for the house with the following result...

You can phone Soham joinery for quotes, you can phone other people for
quotes some of which will be ridiculous (in the £1000s) and then you can
face reality and end up with uPVC which while not actually cheap is at
least affordable.

If that's not appropriate for this application then . . . at least get a
quote from Soham joinery who at least know what they are doing.

Thanks for your information. I was afraid of that. But uPVC
wouldn't solve anything, because it would be exactly as much hassle
as replacing the windows and frames with wood. I might just use
borax inserts and fill the rotten bits - it depends on which is easier.

If filling is an option, perhaps 'wood replacement' might be too? I
have, on recommendation from a College carpenter, been using this epoxy
resin alternative to replace rotten bits on the window sills of the
cabin:

http://www.repair-care.co.uk/products/dry-flex-4-2-in-1

Having seen it in action and having been able to inspect the post-repair
results on bits around college after a few years, I have become
reasonably confident in it's 'wood replacement' value (as opposed mere
'filling' capacity). Ridgeon's carries it (but on a separate shelf from
the 'wood repair' section which used to confuse me).

big tubs of car body filler are a lot cheaper than plastic wood.
almost as good.

[g]

On Friday, September 4, 2015 at 8:29:48 PM UTC+1, Nick Maclaren wrote:
I have some wooden outbuilding windows that were installed c. 1976
where the windows are rotting, but the frame is fine. I would much
rather replace just the window, but am not set up for joinery and
the windows do not justify paying for it. I am probably out of luck,
but does have anyone any suggestions on a way to search the Web or
suitable places to look in the Cambridge area?

At that time, they were called 'storm' windows - i.e. they have the
outside overlapping by 1 cm all round.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

In article ,
Espen Koht wrote:

If filling is an option, perhaps 'wood replacement' might be too? I
have, on recommendation from a College carpenter, been using this epoxy
resin alternative to replace rotten bits on the window sills of the
cabin:

Oh, yes - been there, done that. Our main windows are the original
1930 ones, and I fixed up some of them with lots of borax against
rot, wood hardener, 6" nails, epoxy filler and that sort of filler.
And they have lasted another 30+ years with no more than repainting.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.