Have a fairly ancient Omnicron 9000 burglar alarm I installed - bought
from TLC. With a flush mounting remote keyboard at the front door.
Recently bought a new SLA battery for it too.

The remote panel has stopped working - or at least the numbers part of it.
The reset button still produces a beep and triggers its LED.

The panel on the alarm itself still works normally. They are both the
early type of touch screen, not proper push buttons

Any guesses?

The chances of finding another new alarm with a remote panel of the same
size (to avoid re-decoration etc) I'd guess is slight.

--
*Young at heart -- slightly older in other places

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in
:

Have a fairly ancient Omnicron 9000 burglar alarm I installed - bought
from TLC. With a flush mounting remote keyboard at the front door.
Recently bought a new SLA battery for it too.

The remote panel has stopped working - or at least the numbers part of
it. The reset button still produces a beep and triggers its LED.

The panel on the alarm itself still works normally. They are both the
early type of touch screen, not proper push buttons

Any guesses?

The chances of finding another new alarm with a remote panel of the
same size (to avoid re-decoration etc) I'd guess is slight.


I had a switchplate sized remote panel and the conductive rubber membrane
was the cause of my problem. A strip and a clean of the contact board and I
think I rubbed a soft pencil on the back of the membrane. It then worked
again for years.

In article 6,
DerbyBorn wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in
:

Have a fairly ancient Omnicron 9000 burglar alarm I installed - bought
from TLC. With a flush mounting remote keyboard at the front door.
Recently bought a new SLA battery for it too.

The remote panel has stopped working - or at least the numbers part of
it. The reset button still produces a beep and triggers its LED.

The panel on the alarm itself still works normally. They are both the
early type of touch screen, not proper push buttons

Any guesses?

The chances of finding another new alarm with a remote panel of the
same size (to avoid re-decoration etc) I'd guess is slight.


I had a switchplate sized remote panel and the conductive rubber
membrane was the cause of my problem. A strip and a clean of the
contact board and I think I rubbed a soft pencil on the back of the
membrane. It then worked again for years.

Yes - it's that sort of keypad. Thing is it worked perfectly until a day
or so ago. Then noticed one number needed couple of goes to enter. Two
days later, no number key works at all. Would that happen so suddenly?

--
*All men are idiots, and I married their King.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in
:

In article 6,
DerbyBorn wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in
:

Have a fairly ancient Omnicron 9000 burglar alarm I installed -
bought
from TLC. With a flush mounting remote keyboard at the front door.
Recently bought a new SLA battery for it too.

The remote panel has stopped working - or at least the numbers part
of
it. The reset button still produces a beep and triggers its LED.

The panel on the alarm itself still works normally. They are both
the
early type of touch screen, not proper push buttons

Any guesses?

The chances of finding another new alarm with a remote panel of the
same size (to avoid re-decoration etc) I'd guess is slight.


I had a switchplate sized remote panel and the conductive rubber
membrane was the cause of my problem. A strip and a clean of the
contact board and I think I rubbed a soft pencil on the back of the
membrane. It then worked again for years.

Yes - it's that sort of keypad. Thing is it worked perfectly until a
day
or so ago. Then noticed one number needed couple of goes to enter. Two
days later, no number key works at all. Would that happen so suddenly?


Easy to strip - but be aware it has a tamper switch.It could be that the
internal resistance has just reached a treshold and it has given up.

Get one with raised bits for the figures or no blind person could get in!
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
Have a fairly ancient Omnicron 9000 burglar alarm I installed - bought
from TLC. With a flush mounting remote keyboard at the front door.
Recently bought a new SLA battery for it too.

The remote panel has stopped working - or at least the numbers part of it.
The reset button still produces a beep and triggers its LED.

The panel on the alarm itself still works normally. They are both the
early type of touch screen, not proper push buttons

Any guesses?

The chances of finding another new alarm with a remote panel of the same
size (to avoid re-decoration etc) I'd guess is slight.

--
*Young at heart -- slightly older in other places

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 30/07/2015 16:38, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Yes - it's that sort of keypad. Thing is it worked perfectly until a day
or so ago. Then noticed one number needed couple of goes to enter. Two
days later, no number key works at all. Would that happen so suddenly?


Used any solvents in the vicinity recently?

Lee wrote in :

On 30/07/2015 16:38, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Yes - it's that sort of keypad. Thing is it worked perfectly until a day
or so ago. Then noticed one number needed couple of goes to enter. Two
days later, no number key works at all. Would that happen so suddenly?


Used any solvents in the vicinity recently?




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CltBq6ed2rs

The contacts on the circuit board could be a little oxidised. Try polishing
those first - then see the video.

On Thu, 30 Jul 2015 14:44:01 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The panel on the alarm itself still works normally. They are both the
early type of touch screen, not proper push buttons

What do you mean by "touch screen". Rubber bobbly buttons like a TV
remote that do depress. Smooth plastic, with printed numbers, slight
indentation for the active area, essentially no movement but still
requiring a definate push to enter a number. Or touch screen as in
mobile phone?

I'd carefully remove it from the wall and check for a loose/corroded
connection into the cable back to the panel. If it's the flat
membrane type, it might be a sealed unit or might just be a flexi
folded onto itself. The latter will be cleanable but be careful of
any tracks that cross the fold and that might be where the fault is.
If everything looks OK, try it on a short bit of cable direct into
the panel, maybe you have had a little grey or brown furry visitor...

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article o.uk,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jul 2015 14:44:01 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The panel on the alarm itself still works normally. They are both the
early type of touch screen, not proper push buttons

What do you mean by "touch screen". Rubber bobbly buttons like a TV
remote that do depress.

Smooth plastic, with printed numbers, slight
indentation for the active area, essentially no movement but still
requiring a definate push to enter a number.
This one. Think it may be called a membrane type - but couldn't think of
the name when I first posted.





Or touch screen as in
mobile phone?

I'd carefully remove it from the wall and check for a loose/corroded
connection into the cable back to the panel. If it's the flat
membrane type, it might be a sealed unit or might just be a flexi
folded onto itself. The latter will be cleanable but be careful of
any tracks that cross the fold and that might be where the fault is.
If everything looks OK, try it on a short bit of cable direct into
the panel, maybe you have had a little grey or brown furry visitor...

I've not yet looked at the instructions, but think it uses a three pair
telephone cable to link to the panel. So at least part of it is
multiplexed? All the LEDs on it seem to work ok and some of the function
buttons but none of the number ones. Every button should beep when you
touch it - now only those function ones do.

Next step is to remove it and have a look. ;-) ISRT having to add a
supplied IC to the main PCB when fitting the remote.

--
*Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Or touch screen as in
mobile phone?

I'd carefully remove it from the wall and check for a loose/corroded
connection into the cable back to the panel. If it's the flat
membrane type, it might be a sealed unit or might just be a flexi
folded onto itself. The latter will be cleanable but be careful of
any tracks that cross the fold and that might be where the fault is.
If everything looks OK, try it on a short bit of cable direct into
the panel, maybe you have had a little grey or brown furry visitor...

I've not yet looked at the instructions, but think it uses a three pair
telephone cable to link to the panel. So at least part of it is
multiplexed? All the LEDs on it seem to work ok and some of the function
buttons but none of the number ones. Every button should beep when you
touch it - now only those function ones do.

Next step is to remove it and have a look. ;-) ISRT having to add a
supplied IC to the main PCB when fitting the remote.


I seem to recall with mine that it was necessary to programme the main
panel to accept code from the remote.
Could it have lost its setting and need the code sequence re-entering?

On Fri, 31 Jul 2015 09:07:26 GMT, DerbyBorn wrote:

I've not yet looked at the instructions, but think it uses a three
pair
telephone cable to link to the panel.

Probably "alarm cable", looks from the outside like CW1308 but inside
is just a bundle of stranded wires in plain colours (red, black,
green, white, yellow and blue for 6 core). They aren't arranged in
pairs.

So at least part of it is multiplexed? All the LEDs on it seem to
work
ok and some of the function buttons but none of the number ones.
Every
button should beep when you touch it - now only those function
ones do.

The beep from the function keys implies it has power and is (half)
working. Do the function keys do what they are supposed to do with
the panel as well as beep or just beep?

If the function keys are fully working that implies the comms keypad
panel is OK. That just leaves the numbers membrane at fault. The
fuction keys may well be handled seperately as far as the sets of
buttons are concerned, even if they are all on the same membrane
unit.

I seem to recall with mine that it was necessary to programme the main
panel to accept code from the remote. Could it have lost its setting and
need the code sequence re-entering?

Doesn't fit with just one number pad failing then all of them. Was
the initial failure just one number or a row/column of numbers, ie 4
5 6 or 3 6 9 #?

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article o.uk,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
Doesn't fit with just one number pad failing then all of them. Was
the initial failure just one number or a row/column of numbers, ie 4
5 6 or 3 6 9 #?

The '8' seemed to give trouble first - other rows not. But very quickly (a
day or so) followed by all of them.

--
*Some days we are the flies; some days we are the windscreen.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Removed the keyboard and managed to separate it. Here are some scans.

Front
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q309/trakkies/AlarmScan1_zpsjuy8y5dj.jpg

Base
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q309/trakkies/AlarmScan2045_zpsuuqcbsjf.jpg

--
*I'm not a paranoid, deranged millionaire. Dammit, I'm a billionaire.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Mon, 03 Aug 2015 17:58:00 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Removed the keyboard and managed to separate it. Here are some scans.

The front looks OK but where has all that kak come from on the base?

If you are lucky simply cleaning the switch pad areas may get it
working again. Otherwise *carefully* remove the clear separator from
the base, maybe soaking off rather than dry prying, clean up, water
should do, and look for cracked/damaged tracks. Conductive paint is
probably the better way to effect any required repairs.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article o.uk,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Mon, 03 Aug 2015 17:58:00 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Removed the keyboard and managed to separate it. Here are some scans.

The front looks OK but where has all that kak come from on the base?

Think it's just cleaning fluid between the layers.

If you are lucky simply cleaning the switch pad areas may get it
working again. Otherwise *carefully* remove the clear separator from
the base, maybe soaking off rather than dry prying, clean up, water
should do, and look for cracked/damaged tracks. Conductive paint is
probably the better way to effect any required repairs.

--
*Heart attacks... God's revenge for eating his animal friends

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 04 Aug 2015 14:02:33 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The front looks OK but where has all that kak come from on the
base?

Think it's just cleaning fluid between the layers.

Ah good 'ole Brasso and PO316's again... B-)

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article o.uk,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 04 Aug 2015 14:02:33 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The front looks OK but where has all that kak come from on the
base?

Think it's just cleaning fluid between the layers.

Ah good 'ole Brasso and PO316's again... B-)

Well, decided it's fooked. After cleaning the keypad, nothing now works at
all from it. But the mimic LEDs still work, so it's not a simple fault
like the power supply. And the LEDs go through their start up self test.

--
*Friends help you move. Real friends help you move bodies.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 04 Aug 2015 17:12:04 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The front looks OK but where has all that kak come from on the
base?

Think it's just cleaning fluid between the layers.

Ah good 'ole Brasso and PO316's again... B-)

Well, decided it's fooked. After cleaning the keypad, nothing now works
at all from it.

Aw, that's a shame. Do any of the "buttons" work if you stick an
ohmeter across the appropiate pads for the X/Y cordinates of a given
button?

YHM BTW.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Wed, 05 Aug 2015 10:59:56 +0100 (BST), Dave Liquorice wrote:

YHM BTW.

Well you would if it wasn't stuck in my mail queue for some reason.

"@4000000055c215f6154a0514 delivery 631: deferral:

Sorry,_I_wasn't_able_to_establish_an_SMTP_connecti on._(#4.4.1)
/"

The DNS doesn't return an MX record...

Do the obvious to my address above. I have a box doing nothing...

--
Cheers
Dave.