I have three pieces of equipment with displays that have failed, a
Bushnell trail camera which still functions but I cannot access the
menu because the display is blank, a bathroom scale powered by a
cr2032 cell and now my Chinese uni-t ut201 clamp meter.

The last two are cheap enough but the trail camera was a couple of
hundred quid.

Having checked power is getting on the motherboards is there anything
else an amateur could look for to find the fault?

AJH

In article ,
writes:
I have three pieces of equipment with displays that have failed, a
Bushnell trail camera which still functions but I cannot access the
menu because the display is blank, a bathroom scale powered by a
cr2032 cell and now my Chinese uni-t ut201 clamp meter.

The last two are cheap enough but the trail camera was a couple of
hundred quid.

Having checked power is getting on the motherboards is there anything
else an amateur could look for to find the fault?

Early liquid crystal displays have a limited life anyway. There
were different types (with slightly different colours) which
had different life expectancy, but I've forgotten which is which
now.

Failure of the connection to the display is not uncommon.
Some displays use a very fine array of contacts embedded in
rubber to push against the glass, and disturbing these often
leaves parts of the display not working. Those with wire lead
connections to the glass often break, causing much the same
effect. If the connection to the AC backplane is lost, the
whole display will stop working.

Some types of LCD rely entirely on a back light for visibility,
and if the backlight fails, you can't see the display, although
the LCD part may still be working fine. In such cases, you might
be able to see the display if you use a bright torch (and this
goes for some LCD computer monitors too).

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 15:32:45 +0100, wrote:

I have three pieces of equipment with displays that have failed, a
Bushnell trail camera which still functions but I cannot access the
menu because the display is blank, a bathroom scale powered by a
cr2032 cell and now my Chinese uni-t ut201 clamp meter.

The last two are cheap enough but the trail camera was a couple of
hundred quid.

Having checked power is getting on the motherboards is there anything
else an amateur could look for to find the fault?

AJH

How is the display connected to the board? If it is a rubber strip
with stacked conducting sections, it might have lost contact with the
glass or board owing to water ingress. If there is a flexible printed
cable stuck to the glass, it might have come unstuck, or cracked
somewhere, or making bad contact in the socket on the board. The
socket can be a zero-insertion-force type clamped by a rocker or
push/pull, or if the cable has a thick piece stuck on the socket end,
it will be a push fit.

--
Dave W

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:41:15 +0100, Dave W
wrote:

How is the display connected to the board? If it is a rubber strip
with stacked conducting sections, it might have lost contact with the
glass or board owing to water ingress.

It was this on the clamp meter and all held together with pingfukits,
so that's in the bin, the display on the scales had bled when viewed
under bright sunlight so that went there too.

Just deciding whether to just use the trailcam on current menu
settings or risk breaking it completely.

AJH

On 07/06/2015 15:32, wrote:
I have three pieces of equipment with displays that have failed, a
Bushnell trail camera which still functions but I cannot access the
menu because the display is blank, a bathroom scale powered by a
cr2032 cell and now my Chinese uni-t ut201 clamp meter.

The last two are cheap enough but the trail camera was a couple of
hundred quid.

Having checked power is getting on the motherboards is there anything
else an amateur could look for to find the fault?

AJH


I have a Bushnell Trail Cam (model 119436). A year or so ago they
uploaded the wrong firmware update to their website which stopped the
LCD working. Even if that's not your problem and the LCD is dead, there
should be a video-out port you can use to access the setup menu. On mine
it's a subminiature (2.5mm) socket near the USB and SD card slots.

--
Reentrant

wrote:
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:41:15 +0100, Dave W
wrote:

How is the display connected to the board? If it is a rubber strip
with stacked conducting sections, it might have lost contact with the
glass or board owing to water ingress.

It was this on the clamp meter and all held together with pingfukits,
so that's in the bin, the display on the scales had bled when viewed
under bright sunlight so that went there too.

Just deciding whether to just use the trailcam on current menu
settings or risk breaking it completely.

AJH

If it is a name brand camera, you may be able to get parts from the
manufacturer.

On Sunday, 7 June 2015 15:32:49 UTC+1, wrote:
I have three pieces of equipment with displays that have failed, a
Bushnell trail camera which still functions but I cannot access the
menu because the display is blank, a bathroom scale powered by a
cr2032 cell and now my Chinese uni-t ut201 clamp meter.

The last two are cheap enough but the trail camera was a couple of
hundred quid.

Having checked power is getting on the motherboards is there anything
else an amateur could look for to find the fault?

AJH

Lack of adequate pressure on the rubber connecting strip is a very common cause of failure.


NT

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 18:05:07 +0100, wrote:

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:41:15 +0100, Dave W
wrote:

How is the display connected to the board? If it is a rubber strip
with stacked conducting sections, it might have lost contact with the
glass or board owing to water ingress.

It was this on the clamp meter and all held together with pingfukits,
so that's in the bin, the display on the scales had bled when viewed
under bright sunlight so that went there too.

Just deciding whether to just use the trailcam on current menu
settings or risk breaking it completely.

AJH

I don't see why you put the clamp meter in the bin. Just remove the
pingfukits (whatever they might be) and clean the rubber to make good
contact on its edges again, and find some other method of holding it
together instead of the pingfukits (whatever they might be).
--
Dave W

In article ,
Dave W wrote:
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 18:05:07 +0100, wrote:

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:41:15 +0100, Dave W
wrote:

How is the display connected to the board? If it is a rubber strip
with stacked conducting sections, it might have lost contact with the
glass or board owing to water ingress.

It was this on the clamp meter and all held together with pingfukits,
so that's in the bin, the display on the scales had bled when viewed
under bright sunlight so that went there too.

Just deciding whether to just use the trailcam on current menu
settings or risk breaking it completely.

AJH

I don't see why you put the clamp meter in the bin. Just remove the
pingfukits (whatever they might be) and clean the rubber to make good
contact on its edges again, and find some other method of holding it
together instead of the pingfukits (whatever they might be).

The trouble with pingfukits is that they ping all over the room and you
can't find them. Even if you do, you have no idea where they came from or
how they fit. Been there, bought the t-shirt and the DVD.

--
From KT24 in Surrey

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 21:23:34 +0100, Reentrant
wrote:

I have a Bushnell Trail Cam (model 119436). A year or so ago they
uploaded the wrong firmware update to their website which stopped the
LCD working. Even if that's not your problem and the LCD is dead, there
should be a video-out port you can use to access the setup menu. On mine
it's a subminiature (2.5mm) socket near the USB and SD card slots.

Thanks for that, mine's an 119435 and I have just unzipped the new
firmware although it has the original from new.

I'll have to find a 2.5 sub miniature to ?? and see if I can get by
without the lcd screen.

AJH

On Mon, 08 Jun 2015 14:30:32 +0100, Dave W wrote:

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 18:05:07 +0100, wrote:

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:41:15 +0100, Dave W wrote:

How is the display connected to the board? If it is a rubber strip with
stacked conducting sections, it might have lost contact with the glass
or board owing to water ingress.

It was this on the clamp meter and all held together with pingfukits,
so that's in the bin, the display on the scales had bled when viewed
under bright sunlight so that went there too.

Just deciding whether to just use the trailcam on current menu settings
or risk breaking it completely.

AJH

I don't see why you put the clamp meter in the bin. Just remove the
pingfukits (whatever they might be) and clean the rubber to make good
contact on its edges again, and find some other method of holding it
together instead of the pingfukits (whatever they might be).

"Ping****its" is the onomatopoeically ascribed name to a small spring
like part that goes "ping!" when inadvertantly released from its
confinement within a gadget when said gadget is undergoing disassembly.

It is the combination of the sound of its release and the resulting
curse word emitted by the hapless disassembler when said Pin****it goes
ping! and launches itself toward some obscure location in the workshop or
room, never to be discovered ever again (at least as far as the
disassembler's lifetime is concerned).

This explanation is offered to the few who subscribe to the D-I-Y
newsgroup who are simply armchair DIYers. For those who've ever tried
their hand at disassembling almost any mechanically complex piece of
hardware (motorbike engines and gearboxes and, of course, wind up clocks
for example) and had lived in ignorance of that word until now, would
have immediately recognised *exactly* what a "Ping****it" was. :-)

--
Johnny B Good

I'll have to find a 2.5 sub miniature to ?? and see if I can get by
without the lcd screen.

AJH


sounds like driving a Peugeot 407 ...

On Tue, 09 Jun 2015 01:37:01 GMT, Johnny B Good wrote:

... holding it together instead of the pingfukits (whatever they
might
be).

"Ping****its" is the onomatopoeically ascribed name to a small spring
like part that goes "ping!" when inadvertantly released from its
confinement within a gadget when said gadget is undergoing disassembly.

It is the combination of the sound of its release and the resulting
curse word emitted by the hapless disassembler when said Pin****it goes
ping! and launches itself toward some obscure location in the workshop
or room, never to be discovered ever again (at least as far as the
disassembler's lifetime is concerned).

And for more delicate of vocabulary you have "wherdigoes".

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Tue, 09 Jun 2015 01:37:01 GMT, Johnny B Good
wrote:

On Mon, 08 Jun 2015 14:30:32 +0100, Dave W wrote:

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 18:05:07 +0100, wrote:

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:41:15 +0100, Dave W wrote:

How is the display connected to the board? If it is a rubber strip with
stacked conducting sections, it might have lost contact with the glass
or board owing to water ingress.

It was this on the clamp meter and all held together with pingfukits,
so that's in the bin, the display on the scales had bled when viewed
under bright sunlight so that went there too.

Just deciding whether to just use the trailcam on current menu settings
or risk breaking it completely.

AJH

I don't see why you put the clamp meter in the bin. Just remove the
pingfukits (whatever they might be) and clean the rubber to make good
contact on its edges again, and find some other method of holding it
together instead of the pingfukits (whatever they might be).

"Ping****its" is the onomatopoeically ascribed name to a small spring
like part that goes "ping!" when inadvertantly released from its
confinement within a gadget when said gadget is undergoing disassembly.

It is the combination of the sound of its release and the resulting
curse word emitted by the hapless disassembler when said Pin****it goes
ping! and launches itself toward some obscure location in the workshop or
room, never to be discovered ever again (at least as far as the
disassembler's lifetime is concerned).

This explanation is offered to the few who subscribe to the D-I-Y
newsgroup who are simply armchair DIYers. For those who've ever tried
their hand at disassembling almost any mechanically complex piece of
hardware (motorbike engines and gearboxes and, of course, wind up clocks
for example) and had lived in ignorance of that word until now, would
have immediately recognised *exactly* what a "Ping****it" was. :-)

Well Duh! Obviously. But I did suggest finding "some other method of
holding it together", as the OP said it was "all held together" with
them, so I wrongly assumed they were external rather than internal.
--
Dave W

On Tue, 09 Jun 2015 16:06:06 +0100, Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Tue, 09 Jun 2015 01:37:01 GMT, Johnny B Good wrote:

... holding it together instead of the pingfukits (whatever they
might
be).

"Ping****its" is the onomatopoeically ascribed name to a small spring
like part that goes "ping!" when inadvertantly released from its
confinement within a gadget when said gadget is undergoing disassembly.

It is the combination of the sound of its release and the resulting
curse word emitted by the hapless disassembler when said Pin****it goes
ping! and launches itself toward some obscure location in the workshop
or room, never to be discovered ever again (at least as far as the
disassembler's lifetime is concerned).

And for more delicate of vocabulary you have "wherdigoes".

Personally speaking, I rather doubt the very existence of such an
'animal' (a DIYer with a 'delicate vocabulary'). :-)


--
Johnny B Good

On Tue, 09 Jun 2015 21:53:32 +0100, Dave W wrote:

On Tue, 09 Jun 2015 01:37:01 GMT, Johnny B Good
wrote:

On Mon, 08 Jun 2015 14:30:32 +0100, Dave W wrote:

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 18:05:07 +0100, wrote:

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:41:15 +0100, Dave W
wrote:

How is the display connected to the board? If it is a rubber strip
with stacked conducting sections, it might have lost contact with the
glass or board owing to water ingress.

It was this on the clamp meter and all held together with pingfukits,
so that's in the bin, the display on the scales had bled when viewed
under bright sunlight so that went there too.

Just deciding whether to just use the trailcam on current menu
settings or risk breaking it completely.

AJH

I don't see why you put the clamp meter in the bin. Just remove the
pingfukits (whatever they might be) and clean the rubber to make good
contact on its edges again, and find some other method of holding it
together instead of the pingfukits (whatever they might be).

"Ping****its" is the onomatopoeically ascribed name to a small spring
like part that goes "ping!" when inadvertantly released from its
confinement within a gadget when said gadget is undergoing disassembly.

It is the combination of the sound of its release and the resulting
curse word emitted by the hapless disassembler when said Pin****it goes
ping! and launches itself toward some obscure location in the workshop
or room, never to be discovered ever again (at least as far as the
disassembler's lifetime is concerned).

This explanation is offered to the few who subscribe to the D-I-Y
newsgroup who are simply armchair DIYers. For those who've ever tried
their hand at disassembling almost any mechanically complex piece of
hardware (motorbike engines and gearboxes and, of course, wind up clocks
for example) and had lived in ignorance of that word until now, would
have immediately recognised *exactly* what a "Ping****it" was. :-)

Well Duh! Obviously. But I did suggest finding "some other method of
holding it together", as the OP said it was "all held together" with
them, so I wrongly assumed they were external rather than internal.

The only method I can think of to avoid the emission of the epiphet
"****it!", harks back to the days when I used to load and unload 35mm
film cassettes - either from off of the 100 foot rolls of HP and FP 4
film stock or onto the developing tank spiral).

In this case, the doubled up black plastic bin liners that I used as a
cost effective substitute for the rather more expensive light proof bags
would need to be transparent so you *can* see what you're doing.

Of course, you'd have to anticipate the need for such a disassembly
method in the first place - either just assume the existence of
ping****its in the gadget you're about to take apart or else develop a
sixth sense of such parts from the feel of things as you cautiously allow
the casing to partially split open.

Of course, this only stops the ping****its teleporting themselves into
hyperspace. You'll still have the problem of trying to figure out how
they're supposed to be fitted back into place on re-assembly.

At the very least you'll have the ping****it(s) to hand to give you a
fighting chance to properly complete the re-assembly process. However,
this might prove a little more frustrating than if the ping****it *had*
teleported itself into another dimension where you'd at least have had a
damn good excuse to totally give up the (often impossible) task of
refitting such parts

The transparent plastic bag 'confinement field' technique is really only
suited to the most optimistic of sadomasochistic DIYers or those with a
morbid curiosity in building up a collection of bits to add to their tin
of parts labelled, "Mystery Bits 'n' Pieces That Just Might Come In Handy
One Of These Days" (or the acronym,"MB&PTMJCIH1OTD" for the sake of
compactness).

In these days of miniature fluid ounce sized[1] gadgetry, a one ounce
(28.3 gram)/25gram tobacco tin or two should suffice for a lifetime's
collection. In an earlier, more innocent age (just half a century ago), a
biscuit tin or two would have been nearer the mark.

I suspect most seasoned DIYers will be of a less dedicated, more
pragmatic nature and simply assume that the more forcefully a ping****it
launches itself into hyperspace, the greater will be the odds against
successful reassembly without the aid of a specialised factory jig.

In this case, the seasoned DIYer will simply forego the dubious benefit
of the plastic bag confinement field technique and mutter under their
breath the phrase, "Que sera, sera." if said gadget should happen to
explode into a dispersed cloud of ping****its which inevitably condenses,
so to speak, into the more unreachable recesses of the shed or work room,
leaving them with the unspoken thought, "Now I come to think about it, in
hindsight, the Birmingham Screwdriver and stout canvass bag *would* have
been the more optimal disassembly method after all."

No one can truly lay claim to being a DIYer until they've gained an
almost unhealthy familiarity with the phrase "In Hindsight...". It's
likely to be the most used phrase of all in any post DIY activity
analysis.

My advice to any DIY neophyte is not to worry about the seemingly over-
use of this phrase. Since DIY is essentially a self taught skill set, it
simply means you're learning something new to, hopefully, stand you in
good stead later on (even if it simply means knowing when to chuck a
broken gadget straight into the bin rather than waste valuable time
attempting to perform a DIY repair - assuming, of course, that you've not
already acquired an unhealthy interest in building up a collection of
'interesting' ping****its[2]).

[1] "Pint Sized" just seems too large a volume to describe many of
today's "Wonder Gadgets" that one might be tempted into trying a DIY
repair on.

[2] A 'Birmingham Screwdriver' and stout canvass bag can be a great time
saver here. :-)

--
Johnny B Good

In message , Johnny B Good
writes
On Tue, 09 Jun 2015 16:06:06 +0100, Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Tue, 09 Jun 2015 01:37:01 GMT, Johnny B Good wrote:

... holding it together instead of the pingfukits (whatever they
might
be).

"Ping****its" is the onomatopoeically ascribed name to a small spring
like part that goes "ping!" when inadvertantly released from its
confinement within a gadget when said gadget is undergoing disassembly.

It is the combination of the sound of its release and the resulting
curse word emitted by the hapless disassembler when said Pin****it goes
ping! and launches itself toward some obscure location in the workshop
or room, never to be discovered ever again (at least as far as the
disassembler's lifetime is concerned).

And for more delicate of vocabulary you have "wherdigoes".

Personally speaking, I rather doubt the very existence of such an
'animal' (a DIYer with a 'delicate vocabulary'). :-)


Depends if your 3yo is helping you.

I once exclaimed 'Gordon Bennett' over some DIY frustration or other,
our then 2-3yo was 'helping'. She spent the rest of the day gleefully
going round the house saying gordon bennett and laughing :-)
--
Chris French

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 21:23:34 +0100, Reentrant
wrote:



I have a Bushnell Trail Cam (model 119436). A year or so ago they
uploaded the wrong firmware update to their website which stopped the
LCD working. Even if that's not your problem and the LCD is dead, there
should be a video-out port you can use to access the setup menu. On mine
it's a subminiature (2.5mm) socket near the USB and SD card slots.

Can you tell me how many connections this 2.5 sub miniature socket
has, I've tried a 2.5mm stereo to phono to the tv av port with no luck
so is it just a 2 pole (mono) socket?

AJH

On Wed, 10 Jun 2015 11:15:06 +0100, Chris French wrote:

"Ping****its" is the onomatopoeically ascribed name to a small
spring like part that goes "ping!" when inadvertantly released
from
its confinement within a gadget when said gadget is undergoing
disassembly.

And for more delicate of vocabulary you have "wherdigoes".

Personally speaking, I rather doubt the very existence of such an
'animal' (a DIYer with a 'delicate vocabulary'). :-)

Depends if your 3yo is helping you.

Perzackerly and I have a feeling it that it was I that created the
word after using pingfukit when disassembling something with the kids
about and getting black looks from SWMBO'd.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 10/06/2015 21:21, wrote:
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 21:23:34 +0100, Reentrant
wrote:



I have a Bushnell Trail Cam (model 119436). A year or so ago they
uploaded the wrong firmware update to their website which stopped the
LCD working. Even if that's not your problem and the LCD is dead, there
should be a video-out port you can use to access the setup menu. On mine
it's a subminiature (2.5mm) socket near the USB and SD card slots.

Can you tell me how many connections this 2.5 sub miniature socket
has, I've tried a 2.5mm stereo to phono to the tv av port with no luck
so is it just a 2 pole (mono) socket?

AJH


I think so, on mine anyway. Maybe on the more upmarket models that also
let you play back images on the LCD it also has audio.

There is a menu option to set it to PAL or NTSC. Not sure what the
default is; would your TV show NTSC composite video?

Try pressing "menu" then right-arrow 6 times then down-arrow then OK to
toggle it.

--
Reentrant

On 11/06/2015 12:01, Reentrant wrote:
On 10/06/2015 21:21, wrote:
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 21:23:34 +0100, Reentrant
wrote:



I have a Bushnell Trail Cam (model 119436). A year or so ago they
uploaded the wrong firmware update to their website which stopped the
LCD working. Even if that's not your problem and the LCD is dead, there
should be a video-out port you can use to access the setup menu. On mine
it's a subminiature (2.5mm) socket near the USB and SD card slots.

Can you tell me how many connections this 2.5 sub miniature socket
has, I've tried a 2.5mm stereo to phono to the tv av port with no luck
so is it just a 2 pole (mono) socket?

AJH


I think so, on mine anyway. Maybe on the more upmarket models that also
let you play back images on the LCD it also has audio.

There is a menu option to set it to PAL or NTSC. Not sure what the
default is; would your TV show NTSC composite video?

Try pressing "menu" then right-arrow 6 times then down-arrow then OK to
toggle it.

I just found the manual - the default video setting is NTSC.

--
Reentrant

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 12:01:33 +0100, Reentrant
wrote:

On 10/06/2015 21:21, wrote:
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 21:23:34 +0100, Reentrant
wrote:

Can you tell me how many connections this 2.5 sub miniature socket
has, I've tried a 2.5mm stereo to phono to the tv av port with no luck
so is it just a 2 pole (mono) socket?

AJH


I think so, on mine anyway. Maybe on the more upmarket models that also
let you play back images on the LCD it also has audio.

What is the tv side connector, I'll have to buy one.

There is a menu option to set it to PAL or NTSC. Not sure what the
default is; would your TV show NTSC composite video?

Need to get the menu visible first.

Thanks Reentrant

AJH

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 09:24:51 +0100, Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Wed, 10 Jun 2015 11:15:06 +0100, Chris French wrote:

"Ping****its" is the onomatopoeically ascribed name to a small
spring like part that goes "ping!" when inadvertantly released
from
its confinement within a gadget when said gadget is undergoing
disassembly.

And for more delicate of vocabulary you have "wherdigoes".

Personally speaking, I rather doubt the very existence of such an
'animal' (a DIYer with a 'delicate vocabulary'). :-)

Depends if your 3yo is helping you.

Perzackerly and I have a feeling it that it was I that created the word
after using pingfukit when disassembling something with the kids about
and getting black looks from SWMBO'd.

That's the beauty of language, you can turn almost any word or phrase
into an expletive by the simple expedient of adding a pling (exclamation
mark) on the end. It's funny how swiftly children will recognise almost
any such words or phrases for what they truly are, expletives. :-)


--
Johnny B Good

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 22:08:27 +0000, Johnny B Good wrote:

That's the beauty of language, you can turn almost any word or phrase
into an expletive by the simple expedient of adding a pling (exclamation
mark) on the end. It's funny how swiftly children will recognise almost
any such words or phrases for what they truly are, expletives.

Don't often hear 'pling' used for that thewse days (the word pling for !
I mean). I used to use it a lot.

In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:
On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 22:08:27 +0000, Johnny B Good wrote:

That's the beauty of language, you can turn almost any word or phrase
into an expletive by the simple expedient of adding a pling (exclamation
mark) on the end. It's funny how swiftly children will recognise almost
any such words or phrases for what they truly are, expletives.

Don't often hear 'pling' used for that thewse days (the word pling for !
I mean). I used to use it a lot.

You need to use RISC OS on your computer, All program names are preceded by
Pling (!).

Charles Hope wrote:

Bob Eager wrote:

Don't often hear 'pling' used for that thewse days (the word pling for !
I mean).

You need to use RISC OS on your computer, All program names are preceded by
Pling (!).

Preceeding RISC OS, BBC Basic used pling as a quad-byte peek/poke operator.

On Wed, 10 Jun 2015 01:06:02 GMT, Johnny B Good
wrote:

On Tue, 09 Jun 2015 21:53:32 +0100, Dave W wrote:

On Tue, 09 Jun 2015 01:37:01 GMT, Johnny B Good
wrote:

On Mon, 08 Jun 2015 14:30:32 +0100, Dave W wrote:

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 18:05:07 +0100, wrote:

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:41:15 +0100, Dave W
wrote:

How is the display connected to the board? If it is a rubber strip
with stacked conducting sections, it might have lost contact with the
glass or board owing to water ingress.

It was this on the clamp meter and all held together with pingfukits,
so that's in the bin, the display on the scales had bled when viewed
under bright sunlight so that went there too.

Just deciding whether to just use the trailcam on current menu
settings or risk breaking it completely.

AJH

I don't see why you put the clamp meter in the bin. Just remove the
pingfukits (whatever they might be) and clean the rubber to make good
contact on its edges again, and find some other method of holding it
together instead of the pingfukits (whatever they might be).

"Ping****its" is the onomatopoeically ascribed name to a small spring
like part that goes "ping!" when inadvertantly released from its
confinement within a gadget when said gadget is undergoing disassembly.

It is the combination of the sound of its release and the resulting
curse word emitted by the hapless disassembler when said Pin****it goes
ping! and launches itself toward some obscure location in the workshop
or room, never to be discovered ever again (at least as far as the
disassembler's lifetime is concerned).

This explanation is offered to the few who subscribe to the D-I-Y
newsgroup who are simply armchair DIYers. For those who've ever tried
their hand at disassembling almost any mechanically complex piece of
hardware (motorbike engines and gearboxes and, of course, wind up clocks
for example) and had lived in ignorance of that word until now, would
have immediately recognised *exactly* what a "Ping****it" was. :-)

Well Duh! Obviously. But I did suggest finding "some other method of
holding it together", as the OP said it was "all held together" with
them, so I wrongly assumed they were external rather than internal.

The only method I can think of to avoid the emission of the epiphet
"****it!", harks back to the days when I used to load and unload 35mm
film cassettes - either from off of the 100 foot rolls of HP and FP 4
film stock or onto the developing tank spiral).

treatise snipped

All very nice. The trouble is that these days, once ****its have been
pinged, they cannot be replaced even if recaptured. This is because
casings are made of plastic held together by moulded latches. The art
of repair is to discover where to distort the case to release at least
one latch, which then makes the rest of them easier to find. If brute
force is used on the case, the latches all break off with lots of
pinging.
--
Dave W

On 12/06/2015 21:54, wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 12:01:33 +0100, Reentrant
wrote:

On 10/06/2015 21:21, wrote:
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 21:23:34 +0100, Reentrant
wrote:

Can you tell me how many connections this 2.5 sub miniature socket
has, I've tried a 2.5mm stereo to phono to the tv av port with no luck
so is it just a 2 pole (mono) socket?

AJH


I think so, on mine anyway. Maybe on the more upmarket models that also
let you play back images on the LCD it also has audio.

What is the tv side connector, I'll have to buy one.

There is a menu option to set it to PAL or NTSC. Not sure what the
default is; would your TV show NTSC composite video?

Need to get the menu visible first.

Thanks Reentrant

AJH


OK I just tried it with a mono 2.5mm jack plug connected to an RCA plug,
wired tip to centre, sleeve to sleeve, and our 7-year old Panasonic
plasma TV can display the setup menus whether the Bushnell is set to PAL
or NTSC.

I was under the impression that most recent (say 5 yrs old or less) TVs
would handle NTSC.

If it's not working for you, maybe the fault is more fundamental than
just an LCD failure?

--
Reentrant

On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 14:12:49 +0100, Reentrant
wrote:
OK I just tried it with a mono 2.5mm jack plug connected to an RCA plug,
wired tip to centre, sleeve to sleeve,

Thanks I'll have to buy a converter they seem only to cost a quid.

If it's not working for you, maybe the fault is more fundamental than
just an LCD failure?

No the fundamental problem is lack of correct connection, thanks for
your help.

AJH

On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 10:16:15 +0100, Dave W wrote:

All very nice. The trouble is that these days, once ****its have been
pinged, they cannot be replaced even if recaptured. This is because
casings are made of plastic held together by moulded latches. The art
of repair is to discover where to distort the case to release at least
one latch, which then makes the rest of them easier to find. If brute
force is used on the case, the latches all break off with lots of
pinging.

Ah you need a proper set of levers and "finger nails"(*). Makes a
heck of difference in unlatching cases. One of my Christmas presents
was a Maplin "7 piece iPhone Tool Kit" AA22QU. Can't say I've used
the screwdrivers, screen sucker but the "prying tools"(*) are
excellent and the opening levers also useful for exploring where the
latches are.

Rounded triangular bits of very tough plastic with tapered/gently
curved points to the triangle. Centre is quite thick a dished to
enable a firm grip. Ease point into case joint let it take its
natural position between the two halves and and slide along the
latches just seem to magically unlatch.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 16:46:40 +0100, Reentrant wrote:

I just found the manual - the default video setting is NTSC.

That should just mean a PAL only set won't display colour or have
sound. You should get a monochrome image though. Assuming you don't
have a modern telly that has been told not to accept NTSC, most will
take almost anything these days. The frame rate and line timing is
close enough for an analogue set to lock to.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article o.uk,
"Dave Liquorice" writes:
Ah you need a proper set of levers and "finger nails"(*).

Yes, I have to remember not to cut my nails before going to a
repair event. They often work better than any pry tools, and
if you break them, they grow back again in time for the next
event.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 06:31:28 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

Charles Hope wrote:

Bob Eager wrote:

Don't often hear 'pling' used for that thewse days (the word pling for
!
I mean).

You need to use RISC OS on your computer, All program names are
preceded by Pling (!).

Preceeding RISC OS, BBC Basic used pling as a quad-byte peek/poke
operator.

As others might surmise, it shows that I own a copy of "Linux for
Dummies". :-)

--
Johnny B Good

On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 22:51:50 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 10:16:15 +0100, Dave W wrote:

All very nice. The trouble is that these days, once ****its have been
pinged, they cannot be replaced even if recaptured. This is because
casings are made of plastic held together by moulded latches. The art
of repair is to discover where to distort the case to release at least
one latch, which then makes the rest of them easier to find. If brute
force is used on the case, the latches all break off with lots of
pinging.

Ah you need a proper set of levers and "finger nails"(*). Makes a
heck of difference in unlatching cases. One of my Christmas presents
was a Maplin "7 piece iPhone Tool Kit" AA22QU. Can't say I've used
the screwdrivers, screen sucker but the "prying tools"(*) are
excellent and the opening levers also useful for exploring where the
latches are.

Rounded triangular bits of very tough plastic with tapered/gently
curved points to the triangle. Centre is quite thick a dished to
enable a firm grip. Ease point into case joint let it take its
natural position between the two halves and and slide along the
latches just seem to magically unlatch.

Dave,
Thanks for the info. The Maplin kit is A22QU at £6.99. It's not clear
whether the opening levers are any better than screwdrivers. The
prying tools look interesting but I think I can use other things. It
can be puzzling to know which of the two plastic shells to pull out or
press in to release the latches.
--
Dave W

On Sun, 14 Jun 2015 12:12:38 +0100, Dave W wrote:

Ah you need a proper set of levers and "finger nails"(*).

Rounded triangular bits of very tough plastic with tapered/gently
curved points to the triangle. Centre is quite thick a dished to
enable a firm grip. Ease point into case joint let it take its
natural position between the two halves and and slide along the
latches just seem to magically unlatch.

Dave,
Thanks for the info. The Maplin kit is A22QU at £6.99. It's not clear
whether the opening levers are any better than screwdrivers.

They are much broader, 8 mm wide, and the tip is fine and angled at
about 45 deg to the shaft but not just a simple bend, more of a dog
leg. The width means they spread the levering load better than a
screw driver and they can get into a smaller gap.

The prying tools look interesting but I think I can use other things.

Maybe but these "finger nails" are better than the real thing as they
are harder and not as flexable. Also it doesn't hurt when you apply
some force.

It can be puzzling to know which of the two plastic shells to pull out
or press in to release the latches.

Just need to explore and see which bits of case move and which bits
are held. Quite often there will be some indication in the moulding
of the prescense of a latch. And by seeing how bit's of case move (or
not) you can triangulate onto that hidden screw as well.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Mon, 15 Jun 2015 01:35:29 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Sun, 14 Jun 2015 12:12:38 +0100, Dave W wrote:

Ah you need a proper set of levers and "finger nails"(*).

Rounded triangular bits of very tough plastic with tapered/gently
curved points to the triangle. Centre is quite thick a dished to
enable a firm grip. Ease point into case joint let it take its
natural position between the two halves and and slide along the
latches just seem to magically unlatch.

Dave,
Thanks for the info. The Maplin kit is A22QU at £6.99. It's not clear
whether the opening levers are any better than screwdrivers.

They are much broader, 8 mm wide, and the tip is fine and angled at
about 45 deg to the shaft but not just a simple bend, more of a dog
leg. The width means they spread the levering load better than a
screw driver and they can get into a smaller gap.

The prying tools look interesting but I think I can use other things.

Maybe but these "finger nails" are better than the real thing as they
are harder and not as flexable. Also it doesn't hurt when you apply
some force.

It can be puzzling to know which of the two plastic shells to pull out
or press in to release the latches.

Just need to explore and see which bits of case move and which bits
are held. Quite often there will be some indication in the moulding
of the prescense of a latch. And by seeing how bit's of case move (or
not) you can triangulate onto that hidden screw as well.

Dave,
In response to your glowing recommendation, I bought the Maplin kit
for possible future use. The parts are more suited to small iPhone
sized cases than the printers and monitors I've been mending, but they
could be of use. I was intrigued by the tiny 5-lobed Torx screwdriver
for violating the manufacturer's warranty!
--
Dave W

In message , Dave W
writes
On Mon, 15 Jun 2015 01:35:29 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
Maybe but these "finger nails" are better than the real thing as they
are harder and not as flexable. Also it doesn't hurt when you apply
some force.

It can be puzzling to know which of the two plastic shells to pull out
or press in to release the latches.

Just need to explore and see which bits of case move and which bits
are held. Quite often there will be some indication in the moulding
of the prescense of a latch. And by seeing how bit's of case move (or
not) you can triangulate onto that hidden screw as well.

Dave,
In response to your glowing recommendation, I bought the Maplin kit
for possible future use. The parts are more suited to small iPhone
sized cases than the printers and monitors I've been mending, but they
could be of use. I was intrigued by the tiny 5-lobed Torx screwdriver
for violating the manufacturer's warranty!

Back up this thread, I was intrigued by a comment about *repairing*
handset buttons. Membrane and conductive pixie dust?

My PVR handset buttons have become very unreliable, particularly the
*fast forward* which gets used to avoid adverts. Now rather mature
Topfield 5810. I am reluctant to replace the box having renewed the
electrolytics and filled the drive with cherished films.

Are such repairs really within reach?

--
Tim Lamb

On Wed, 17 Jun 2015 09:04:04 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:


My PVR handset buttons have become very unreliable, particularly the
*fast forward* which gets used to avoid adverts. Now rather mature
Topfield 5810. I am reluctant to replace the box having renewed the
electrolytics and filled the drive with cherished films.

Why not just replace the handset with a generic one? They are available
in many stores/on-line.

In message , Mark
Allread writes
On Wed, 17 Jun 2015 09:04:04 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:


My PVR handset buttons have become very unreliable, particularly the
*fast forward* which gets used to avoid adverts. Now rather mature
Topfield 5810. I am reluctant to replace the box having renewed the
electrolytics and filled the drive with cherished films.

Why not just replace the handset with a generic one? They are available
in many stores/on-line.

Oh!

Not thought of that.

15 quid or so from Amazon supplier and good reviews!

Ta:-)


--
Tim Lamb

On Wed, 17 Jun 2015 12:13:54 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

In message , Mark
Allread writes
On Wed, 17 Jun 2015 09:04:04 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:


My PVR handset buttons have become very unreliable, particularly the
*fast forward* which gets used to avoid adverts. Now rather mature
Topfield 5810. I am reluctant to replace the box having renewed the
electrolytics and filled the drive with cherished films.

Why not just replace the handset with a generic one? They are available
in many stores/on-line.

Oh!

Not thought of that.

15 quid or so from Amazon supplier and good reviews!

Ta:-)


My pleasure.

Once its set up you can still play with the old one if you get bored
knowing that you do have a working one!