Hello all,

I have two separate leaks. One is inside one is outside. The inside one is in a toilet cistern where the ball valve screws to the water inlet on a plastic fitting. It was repaired previously with l-sx compound but is leaking again. The outside one is a brass T piece in an waterline.

Would an l-sx saturated bandage over each leak solve the problem? If so what should I use as the 'gauze'?

wrote in
:

Hello all,

I have two separate leaks. One is inside one is outside. The inside
one is in a toilet cistern where the ball valve screws to the water
inlet on a plastic fitting. It was repaired previously with l-sx
compound but is leaking again. The outside one is a brass T piece in
an waterline.

Would an l-sx saturated bandage over each leak solve the problem? If
so what should I use as the 'gauze'?


You need to undo the joints and make them properly - the ball-valve should
have a fibre washer in it.
You can't fix leaks by putting stuff around them.
You need to describe of show a picture of the tee so that we can advise.

On 02/05/15 15:51, wrote:
Hello all,

I have two separate leaks. One is inside one is outside. The inside one is in a toilet cistern where the ball valve screws to the water inlet on a plastic fitting. It was repaired previously with l-sx compound but is leaking again. The outside one is a brass T piece in an waterline.

Would an l-sx saturated bandage over each leak solve the problem? If so what should I use as the 'gauze'?


IMHO LS-X is not a pipe sealant. It's admittedly handy on waste
fittings, flush pipes into loos and under taps and odd things like that.
But it is about the lowest on the list or "best things to seal a high
pressure fresh water pipe with". Others may disagree.


Boss white/Hawk (depending on potable or not) would qualify as a
reasonable sealant as would a number of Loctite products.

But in this case you are probably overlooking the correct solution of
try a new washer first - assuming you mean the thread of the cistern
valve to the pipe fitting - this is a tap joint and should have a fibre
washer in it. Try changing the fibre washer.

The nut should not be done up too tight - finger tight and a "bit" with
a spanner should suffice. The fibre washer will expand when wet.

If you have some totally different arrangement - a picture would be
useful

In article 6,
DerbyBorn writes:
wrote in
:

Hello all,

I have two separate leaks. One is inside one is outside. The inside
one is in a toilet cistern where the ball valve screws to the water
inlet on a plastic fitting. It was repaired previously with l-sx
compound but is leaking again. The outside one is a brass T piece in
an waterline.

Would an l-sx saturated bandage over each leak solve the problem? If
so what should I use as the 'gauze'?


You need to undo the joints and make them properly - the ball-valve should
have a fibre washer in it.

You might also need to dissolve hard water scale off first to
clean up the two sides of the joint, and use a new fibre washer.

You can't fix leaks by putting stuff around them.
You need to describe of show a picture of the tee so that we can advise.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On the loo one personally, I'd get a replacement valve made of that
apparently now rare material, metal. I've had to do this as no mater how
much messing about we did, it usually leaked a bit after some months. the
material was just too soft to make agood seal before the thead was mangled.
brian

--
Brian Gaff....Note, this account does not accept Bcc: email.
graphics are great, but the blind can't hear them
Email:
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________


wrote in message
...
Hello all,

I have two separate leaks. One is inside one is outside. The inside one is
in a toilet cistern where the ball valve screws to the water inlet on a
plastic fitting. It was repaired previously with l-sx compound but is
leaking again. The outside one is a brass T piece in an waterline.

Would an l-sx saturated bandage over each leak solve the problem? If so what
should I use as the 'gauze'?

Fibre washers did not help with the plastic to metal issue I had. If you are
getting a new valve, make sure its the right sort, ie high or low pressure
feed.
Brian

--
Brian Gaff....Note, this account does not accept Bcc: email.
graphics are great, but the blind can't hear them
Email:
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________


"DerbyBorn" wrote in message
2.236...
wrote in
:

Hello all,

I have two separate leaks. One is inside one is outside. The inside
one is in a toilet cistern where the ball valve screws to the water
inlet on a plastic fitting. It was repaired previously with l-sx
compound but is leaking again. The outside one is a brass T piece in
an waterline.

Would an l-sx saturated bandage over each leak solve the problem? If
so what should I use as the 'gauze'?


You need to undo the joints and make them properly - the ball-valve should
have a fibre washer in it.
You can't fix leaks by putting stuff around them.
You need to describe of show a picture of the tee so that we can advise.

On 02/05/15 16:35, Brian Gaff wrote:
On the loo one personally, I'd get a replacement valve made of that
apparently now rare material, metal. I've had to do this as no mater how
much messing about we did, it usually leaked a bit after some months. the
material was just too soft to make agood seal before the thead was mangled.

Yes - me too.

Pegler make all brass traditional ballcocks.

Fluidmaster have a pro range that whilst plastic, the valve thread is
brass - I have one of these and it is excellent.

On 02/05/2015 16:03, DerbyBorn wrote:
wrote in
:

Hello all,

I have two separate leaks. One is inside one is outside. The inside
one is in a toilet cistern where the ball valve screws to the water
inlet on a plastic fitting. It was repaired previously with l-sx
compound but is leaking again. The outside one is a brass T piece in
an waterline.

Would an l-sx saturated bandage over each leak solve the problem? If
so what should I use as the 'gauze'?


You need to undo the joints and make them properly - the ball-valve should
have a fibre washer in it.
You can't fix leaks by putting stuff around them.

Agreed.

I find the biggest problem with the copper/plastic joint on ball valves
is caused by them not being perfectly aligned. Flexible tap connector
sorts this nicely.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 02/05/2015 16:38, Tim Watts wrote:
On 02/05/15 16:35, Brian Gaff wrote:
On the loo one personally, I'd get a replacement valve made of that
apparently now rare material, metal. I've had to do this as no mater how
much messing about we did, it usually leaked a bit after some months. the
material was just too soft to make agood seal before the thead was
mangled.

Yes - me too.

Pegler make all brass traditional ballcocks.

Fluidmaster have a pro range that whilst plastic, the valve thread is
brass - I have one of these and it is excellent.


I had a similar problem with a copper/plastic mating where the original
pipework had been "forced" into position and the new plastic/copper
interface would not fit squarely placing a lot of stress on the plastic
nut whilst trying to tighten it. My solution was to cut the pipe to put
in a service valve, then loosely fit all the parts and then tighten the
plastic/copper interface first.


If there is an in-line service valve the compression fitting closest to
the system can be slackened off to allow more play between the pipe and
plastic fitting to allow a more reliable connection.

My other advice is to always buy a new kitchen sink trap before trying
to fix the drip from the old one Once distorted the old trap will
always drip, irrespective of how much gunge you throw at it.

--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

,,,and remember - on most items the thread is not the part that makes the
seal - it is the face in the caseof the ball valve, or a olive in the case
of a compression fitting.