Following on from previous conversations about bike lighting I did two
things:

(1) Got some more Lidl LED lights (which will take rechargeables) to go
with my Lidl charger which came with one of the light sets.

(2) Ordered a new lead acid battery for my venerable Smart lights (looking
back, I think I have had them since about '95 with the original battery).

So - how did I diagnose a failed battery?
I tried the lights - no light.
Put the battery on charge - still no light.
Checked the charger - power.
Tried the trickle charger from the shed which is supposed to maintain 6V
batteries (including motorcycle ones) on the bare battery - wouldn't
charge.
[Yes - getting the excuses in!]

Today I fitted the new battery into the casing, having first checked it
was charged.
No light.
Poked around with the multi-meter and thought I saw some voltage but
couldn't replicate the test.
It is an analogue multi-meter and the needle sometimes swings of you tip
it on its side.
Anyway, notice a fuse carrier in the top casing!
Checked the fuse - blown. :-(
Replaced the fuse with the one thoughtfully included in the lid.
Tested the light - working!

O.K. - connect the charger for a bit, then re-check.
Light still working.
Refit the old battery and connect the charger for a bit.
Check the old battery with the multi-meter - it now has at least a surface
charge.
Pending a full charge then a discharge test with the lights, it looks as
though I've spent nearly £14 on a battery instead of a few pence on a 6V
5A glass barrel fuse.

Well impressed with the original battery, though - 20 years of
intermittent use and still seems to be working. The replacement is the
same brand and model. I have no idea if it is the same quality.

Is there a special chocolate Easter Bunny of fail which might dull the
pain a bit?

Oh, well.

Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

question is that why did fuse fail?
Also, I'd have rigged up some kind of 6v source and tried it on the actual
battery connections before buying a new battery, as wiring in general of
that age could be faulty. You might even find the fuse blows again after a
few trips due to chaffed wiring somewhere shorting due to the vibration.

Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"David" wrote in message
...
Following on from previous conversations about bike lighting I did two
things:

(1) Got some more Lidl LED lights (which will take rechargeables) to go
with my Lidl charger which came with one of the light sets.

(2) Ordered a new lead acid battery for my venerable Smart lights (looking
back, I think I have had them since about '95 with the original battery).

So - how did I diagnose a failed battery?
I tried the lights - no light.
Put the battery on charge - still no light.
Checked the charger - power.
Tried the trickle charger from the shed which is supposed to maintain 6V
batteries (including motorcycle ones) on the bare battery - wouldn't
charge.
[Yes - getting the excuses in!]

Today I fitted the new battery into the casing, having first checked it
was charged.
No light.
Poked around with the multi-meter and thought I saw some voltage but
couldn't replicate the test.
It is an analogue multi-meter and the needle sometimes swings of you tip
it on its side.
Anyway, notice a fuse carrier in the top casing!
Checked the fuse - blown. :-(
Replaced the fuse with the one thoughtfully included in the lid.
Tested the light - working!

O.K. - connect the charger for a bit, then re-check.
Light still working.
Refit the old battery and connect the charger for a bit.
Check the old battery with the multi-meter - it now has at least a surface
charge.
Pending a full charge then a discharge test with the lights, it looks as
though I've spent nearly £14 on a battery instead of a few pence on a 6V
5A glass barrel fuse.

Well impressed with the original battery, though - 20 years of
intermittent use and still seems to be working. The replacement is the
same brand and model. I have no idea if it is the same quality.

Is there a special chocolate Easter Bunny of fail which might dull the
pain a bit?

Oh, well.

Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

On Sun, 12 Apr 2015 10:06:17 +0100, Brian Gaff wrote:

question is that why did fuse fail?
Also, I'd have rigged up some kind of 6v source and tried it on the
actual
battery connections before buying a new battery, as wiring in general of
that age could be faulty. You might even find the fuse blows again after
a few trips due to chaffed wiring somewhere shorting due to the
vibration.

Brian

I did (as mentioned) rig up a 6v source to the battery connections - the
battery charger for 6/12v batteries.

Further testing has shown that the charge in the old battery is just a
surface charge - it shows 6v on the meter but won't light the lights.

This was checked by switching batteries a couple of times at the terminals
between old and new and getting light from the new and nothing from the
old.

So, thankfully, I was right to get a new battery.


Cheers

Dave R


--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box