Hi All
Hope I'm not the only one whose mind goes blank looking at wiring diagrams.
Took the old plastic bathroom ceiling light down but, on yanking the
wiring through the lath and plaster, ended up with this little lot (plus
a 6" length of black cable attached to nothing). Don't know where the
spare black cable in the pic came from, or the loose one.



As is, we have power if I wire a lamp up to the terminal blocks but the
pull switch doesn't turn it off. Very difficult to trace wiring any
further without serious disruption, so a degree of trial and error would
be ok.
The earth will be sorted out of course because the new fitting has a
metal base, but any other thoughts appreciated.

On 07/03/2015 13:47, stuart noble wrote:
Hi All
Hope I'm not the only one whose mind goes blank looking at wiring diagrams.
Took the old plastic bathroom ceiling light down but, on yanking the
wiring through the lath and plaster, ended up with this little lot (plus
a 6" length of black cable attached to nothing). Don't know where the
spare black cable in the pic came from, or the loose one.



As is, we have power if I wire a lamp up to the terminal blocks but the
pull switch doesn't turn it off. Very difficult to trace wiring any
further without serious disruption, so a degree of trial and error would
be ok.
The earth will be sorted out of course because the new fitting has a
metal base, but any other thoughts appreciated.


Wire the bulb between the spare black wire and terminal 'D'

The spare black wire is likely to be the live return from the switch and
ideally should have had a red sleeve over it to show it has been reused
as a switched live connector.



--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 07/03/15 13:47, stuart noble wrote:
Hi All
Hope I'm not the only one whose mind goes blank looking at wiring diagrams.
Took the old plastic bathroom ceiling light down but, on yanking the
wiring through the lath and plaster, ended up with this little lot (plus
a 6" length of black cable attached to nothing). Don't know where the
spare black cable in the pic came from, or the loose one.



As is, we have power if I wire a lamp up to the terminal blocks but the
pull switch doesn't turn it off. Very difficult to trace wiring any
further without serious disruption, so a degree of trial and error would
be ok.
The earth will be sorted out of course because the new fitting has a
metal base, but any other thoughts appreciated.

The 60's called - they want their wiring back...

Obviously you are right about the earth's.

The whole lot wants to go into an enclosure too - chock blocks are not
permitted to be used like that and you have only single insulation on
the wires.

However that is all easily sorted with one of these:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ804.html

which will give you neat maintenance free terminations and cable clamps.
It does not need to be fixed down (but you can screw it to a joist of
you want). It is designed to be shoved through a hole in the ceiling...

Now, back you your main question.

Looks like:

C is the incoming supply neutral and 2 other supply cables leading off
to other lights.

D would be the lamp neutral.

A contains the incoming supply live and 2 lead offs to other circuits.
Also contains the live to switch for this lamp (the cable with the
dangling black marked ??).

B is not used.

The dangling black marked ?? is the switched live and goes into this
lamp. It should be sleeved red (well, brown now, but it hardly matters -
red for consistency, brown if that's all you have. A couple of turns of
red or brown insulation tape is sufficient too.

The earths need sleeving with green/yellow sleeve - tape is not sufficient.

You should be able to verify all the above with a multimeter and someone
else poking the switch - but do stick a terminal on that floating black
for the moment to give it some protection - it's live.


Wiring looks OK superficially - it's just a crap half arsed termination
that's the problem...

On 07/03/2015 13:57, Tim Watts wrote:
On 07/03/15 13:47, stuart noble wrote:
Hi All
Hope I'm not the only one whose mind goes blank looking at wiring
diagrams.
Took the old plastic bathroom ceiling light down but, on yanking the
wiring through the lath and plaster, ended up with this little lot (plus
a 6" length of black cable attached to nothing). Don't know where the
spare black cable in the pic came from, or the loose one.



As is, we have power if I wire a lamp up to the terminal blocks but the
pull switch doesn't turn it off. Very difficult to trace wiring any
further without serious disruption, so a degree of trial and error would
be ok.
The earth will be sorted out of course because the new fitting has a
metal base, but any other thoughts appreciated.

The 60's called - they want their wiring back...

Obviously you are right about the earth's.

The whole lot wants to go into an enclosure too - chock blocks are not
permitted to be used like that and you have only single insulation on
the wires.

However that is all easily sorted with one of these:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ804.html

which will give you neat maintenance free terminations and cable clamps.
It does not need to be fixed down (but you can screw it to a joist of
you want). It is designed to be shoved through a hole in the ceiling...

Now, back you your main question.

Looks like:

C is the incoming supply neutral and 2 other supply cables leading off
to other lights.

D would be the lamp neutral.

A contains the incoming supply live and 2 lead offs to other circuits.
Also contains the live to switch for this lamp (the cable with the
dangling black marked ??).

B is not used.

The dangling black marked ?? is the switched live and goes into this
lamp. It should be sleeved red (well, brown now, but it hardly matters -
red for consistency, brown if that's all you have. A couple of turns of
red or brown insulation tape is sufficient too.

The earths need sleeving with green/yellow sleeve - tape is not sufficient.

You should be able to verify all the above with a multimeter and someone
else poking the switch - but do stick a terminal on that floating black
for the moment to give it some protection - it's live.


Wiring looks OK superficially - it's just a crap half arsed termination
that's the problem...

Thanks guys. Just relieved it was that simple. And yes, Tim, I will do
the whole thing properly. Now I've cut the floorboard and have direct
access, there can be no excuse

This is the main reason why, when laying out lighting circuits, I use
junction boxes so that each outlet/switch/etc has a single unambiguous
cable coming to it. Two-way switches have a single which is always the
common and a twin, /for each switch/, or I use some of my drum of
triple+E cable.

jgh

On Sat, 07 Mar 2015 13:56:45 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 07/03/2015 13:47, stuart noble wrote:
Hi All
Hope I'm not the only one whose mind goes blank looking at wiring diagrams.
Took the old plastic bathroom ceiling light down but, on yanking the
wiring through the lath and plaster, ended up with this little lot (plus
a 6" length of black cable attached to nothing). Don't know where the
spare black cable in the pic came from, or the loose one.



As is, we have power if I wire a lamp up to the terminal blocks but the
pull switch doesn't turn it off. Very difficult to trace wiring any
further without serious disruption, so a degree of trial and error would
be ok.
The earth will be sorted out of course because the new fitting has a
metal base, but any other thoughts appreciated.


Wire the bulb between the spare black wire and terminal 'D'

The spare black wire is likely to be the live return from the switch and
ideally should have had a red sleeve over it to show it has been reused
as a switched live connector.

Normally the lighting feed from the CU 6A fuse bridge is daisychained
from ceiling rose to ceiling rose with a switch drop from each ceiling
rose.

See here for a clear wiring diagram of this arrangement:

http://www.davesdiytips.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/daves-ceiling-rose.jpg

However, what you have here is a third B (assuming that the mains
feed goes from left to right), which is a spur off the daisychain to
provide another ceiling rose with a permanent LN&E feed.

The only silly thing (I've only just spotted) is the improbable use
of a specially colour coded T&E switch drop cable. This is more likely
to be just another length of FT&E (in old money Red, Black and bare
copper protective earth) with the black used as the switched live
return with a red sleeve to warn that this is the case (incidently,
also acting as a switch drop label if all three (or, in this case,
four) cables are disconnected from the ceiling rose terminal block).

In this case, the chocolate blocks are standing in for those
connections normally found in a ceiling rose which has obviously been
displaced by the ceiling mounted luminaire (which, incidently, should
also have an earth connection if it has any metal parts deemed to be a
shock hazard, indicated by there being an earth terminal in the
luminaire itself).

Curiously, I notice the mix 'n' match between the old and the current
colour coding of the cabling and the pendant lamp holder flex. The
absence of an earth wire is entirely normal for such pendant lamp
sockets. However, if you choose to hang a metal chandelier off the
ceiling rose, it should be wired with a 3 wire cord with a
green/yellow earth wire which should be connected to the earth
terminal in the ceiling rose (marked '9' in the diagram) but in this
case, joined to the bunched earths, preferably using another chocolate
block if you're rewiring this on the cheap.

One other thing, the diagram implies that the wire entries into the
screw terminal strips can go in either way. Normally they can only go
in from the same side, including the blue and brown wires of the
pendant cord which is usually routed around strain relief posts to go
into the connector blocks on the same side as the cabling conductors.

Perhaps I should have found a better picture?
--
J B Good

One hopes that the loose black if that is really what is meant, did not
pull out of the switch end or some interesting rewiring will be required.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 07/03/2015 13:47, stuart noble wrote:
Hi All
Hope I'm not the only one whose mind goes blank looking at wiring
diagrams.
Took the old plastic bathroom ceiling light down but, on yanking the
wiring through the lath and plaster, ended up with this little lot (plus
a 6" length of black cable attached to nothing). Don't know where the
spare black cable in the pic came from, or the loose one.



As is, we have power if I wire a lamp up to the terminal blocks but the
pull switch doesn't turn it off. Very difficult to trace wiring any
further without serious disruption, so a degree of trial and error would
be ok.
The earth will be sorted out of course because the new fitting has a
metal base, but any other thoughts appreciated.


Wire the bulb between the spare black wire and terminal 'D'

The spare black wire is likely to be the live return from the switch and
ideally should have had a red sleeve over it to show it has been reused as
a switched live connector.



--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 08/03/2015 09:17, Brian Gaff wrote:
One hopes that the loose black if that is really what is meant, did not
pull out of the switch end or some interesting rewiring will be required.
Brian


Fortunately not :-)

On 08/03/2015 04:37, Johny B Good wrote:
On Sat, 07 Mar 2015 13:56:45 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 07/03/2015 13:47, stuart noble wrote:
Hi All
Hope I'm not the only one whose mind goes blank looking at wiring diagrams.
Took the old plastic bathroom ceiling light down but, on yanking the
wiring through the lath and plaster, ended up with this little lot (plus
a 6" length of black cable attached to nothing). Don't know where the
spare black cable in the pic came from, or the loose one.



As is, we have power if I wire a lamp up to the terminal blocks but the
pull switch doesn't turn it off. Very difficult to trace wiring any
further without serious disruption, so a degree of trial and error would
be ok.
The earth will be sorted out of course because the new fitting has a
metal base, but any other thoughts appreciated.


Wire the bulb between the spare black wire and terminal 'D'

The spare black wire is likely to be the live return from the switch and
ideally should have had a red sleeve over it to show it has been reused
as a switched live connector.

Normally the lighting feed from the CU 6A fuse bridge is daisychained
from ceiling rose to ceiling rose with a switch drop from each ceiling
rose.

See here for a clear wiring diagram of this arrangement:

http://www.davesdiytips.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/daves-ceiling-rose.jpg

However, what you have here is a third B (assuming that the mains
feed goes from left to right), which is a spur off the daisychain to
provide another ceiling rose with a permanent LN&E feed.

The only silly thing (I've only just spotted) is the improbable use
of a specially colour coded T&E switch drop cable. This is more likely
to be just another length of FT&E (in old money Red, Black and bare
copper protective earth) with the black used as the switched live
return with a red sleeve to warn that this is the case (incidently,
also acting as a switch drop label if all three (or, in this case,
four) cables are disconnected from the ceiling rose terminal block).

In this case, the chocolate blocks are standing in for those
connections normally found in a ceiling rose which has obviously been
displaced by the ceiling mounted luminaire (which, incidently, should
also have an earth connection if it has any metal parts deemed to be a
shock hazard, indicated by there being an earth terminal in the
luminaire itself).

Curiously, I notice the mix 'n' match between the old and the current
colour coding of the cabling and the pendant lamp holder flex. The
absence of an earth wire is entirely normal for such pendant lamp
sockets. However, if you choose to hang a metal chandelier off the
ceiling rose, it should be wired with a 3 wire cord with a
green/yellow earth wire which should be connected to the earth
terminal in the ceiling rose (marked '9' in the diagram) but in this
case, joined to the bunched earths, preferably using another chocolate
block if you're rewiring this on the cheap.

One other thing, the diagram implies that the wire entries into the
screw terminal strips can go in either way. Normally they can only go
in from the same side, including the blue and brown wires of the
pendant cord which is usually routed around strain relief posts to go
into the connector blocks on the same side as the cabling conductors.

Perhaps I should have found a better picture?


I guess the ease with which the guys on here diagnosed the problem
suggests it's a relatively normal setup. Thanks for the diagram which I
shall file for information.
Whenever I've fitted luminaires and various gin palace light fittings
I've always tried to keep the ceiling rose, if only because they're so
fiddly to work on.

On Sunday, March 8, 2015 at 10:41:02 AM UTC, stuart noble wrote:
On 08/03/2015 04:37, Johny B Good wrote:
On Sat, 07 Mar 2015 13:56:45 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 07/03/2015 13:47, stuart noble wrote:
Hi All
Hope I'm not the only one whose mind goes blank looking at wiring diagrams.
Took the old plastic bathroom ceiling light down but, on yanking the
wiring through the lath and plaster, ended up with this little lot (plus
a 6" length of black cable attached to nothing). Don't know where the
spare black cable in the pic came from, or the loose one.



As is, we have power if I wire a lamp up to the terminal blocks but the
pull switch doesn't turn it off. Very difficult to trace wiring any
further without serious disruption, so a degree of trial and error would
be ok.
The earth will be sorted out of course because the new fitting has a
metal base, but any other thoughts appreciated.


Wire the bulb between the spare black wire and terminal 'D'

The spare black wire is likely to be the live return from the switch and
ideally should have had a red sleeve over it to show it has been reused
as a switched live connector.

Normally the lighting feed from the CU 6A fuse bridge is daisychained
from ceiling rose to ceiling rose with a switch drop from each ceiling
rose.

See here for a clear wiring diagram of this arrangement:

http://www.davesdiytips.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/daves-ceiling-rose.jpg

However, what you have here is a third B (assuming that the mains
feed goes from left to right), which is a spur off the daisychain to
provide another ceiling rose with a permanent LN&E feed.

The only silly thing (I've only just spotted) is the improbable use
of a specially colour coded T&E switch drop cable. This is more likely
to be just another length of FT&E (in old money Red, Black and bare
copper protective earth) with the black used as the switched live
return with a red sleeve to warn that this is the case (incidently,
also acting as a switch drop label if all three (or, in this case,
four) cables are disconnected from the ceiling rose terminal block).

In this case, the chocolate blocks are standing in for those
connections normally found in a ceiling rose which has obviously been
displaced by the ceiling mounted luminaire (which, incidently, should
also have an earth connection if it has any metal parts deemed to be a
shock hazard, indicated by there being an earth terminal in the
luminaire itself).

Curiously, I notice the mix 'n' match between the old and the current
colour coding of the cabling and the pendant lamp holder flex. The
absence of an earth wire is entirely normal for such pendant lamp
sockets. However, if you choose to hang a metal chandelier off the
ceiling rose, it should be wired with a 3 wire cord with a
green/yellow earth wire which should be connected to the earth
terminal in the ceiling rose (marked '9' in the diagram) but in this
case, joined to the bunched earths, preferably using another chocolate
block if you're rewiring this on the cheap.

One other thing, the diagram implies that the wire entries into the
screw terminal strips can go in either way. Normally they can only go
in from the same side, including the blue and brown wires of the
pendant cord which is usually routed around strain relief posts to go
into the connector blocks on the same side as the cabling conductors.

Perhaps I should have found a better picture?


I guess the ease with which the guys on here diagnosed the problem
suggests it's a relatively normal setup. Thanks for the diagram which I
shall file for information.
Whenever I've fitted luminaires and various gin palace light fittings
I've always tried to keep the ceiling rose, if only because they're so
fiddly to work on.

its standard, though usually the joints are inside a jbox or ceiling rose


NT

On 07/03/2015 14:52, stuart noble wrote:
Hope I'm not the only one whose mind goes blank looking at wiring
diagrams.

I am the same I have to re draw them with the items in the correct
position on paper then draw the cable and at the end of each cable the
colored wire going in to each item. I just cant follow it easily from a
proper wiring diagram.

You should see my wiring diagram for 2 PIRs and 2 lights being fed from
the mains!

Then I have to try and re draw it so it makes more sense to others to
put on here to confirm I wont blow myself up.

I would say a big thank you to guys on here for time and patience given
for my various `projects`

On 08/03/2015 10:41, stuart noble wrote:
On 08/03/2015 04:37, Johny B Good wrote:
On Sat, 07 Mar 2015 13:56:45 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 07/03/2015 13:47, stuart noble wrote:
Hi All
Hope I'm not the only one whose mind goes blank looking at wiring
diagrams.
Took the old plastic bathroom ceiling light down but, on yanking the
wiring through the lath and plaster, ended up with this little lot
(plus
a 6" length of black cable attached to nothing). Don't know where the
spare black cable in the pic came from, or the loose one.



As is, we have power if I wire a lamp up to the terminal blocks but the
pull switch doesn't turn it off. Very difficult to trace wiring any
further without serious disruption, so a degree of trial and error
would
be ok.
The earth will be sorted out of course because the new fitting has a
metal base, but any other thoughts appreciated.


Wire the bulb between the spare black wire and terminal 'D'

The spare black wire is likely to be the live return from the switch and
ideally should have had a red sleeve over it to show it has been reused
as a switched live connector.

Normally the lighting feed from the CU 6A fuse bridge is daisychained
from ceiling rose to ceiling rose with a switch drop from each ceiling
rose.

See here for a clear wiring diagram of this arrangement:

http://www.davesdiytips.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/daves-ceiling-rose.jpg


However, what you have here is a third B (assuming that the mains
feed goes from left to right), which is a spur off the daisychain to
provide another ceiling rose with a permanent LN&E feed.

The only silly thing (I've only just spotted) is the improbable use
of a specially colour coded T&E switch drop cable. This is more likely
to be just another length of FT&E (in old money Red, Black and bare
copper protective earth) with the black used as the switched live
return with a red sleeve to warn that this is the case (incidently,
also acting as a switch drop label if all three (or, in this case,
four) cables are disconnected from the ceiling rose terminal block).

In this case, the chocolate blocks are standing in for those
connections normally found in a ceiling rose which has obviously been
displaced by the ceiling mounted luminaire (which, incidently, should
also have an earth connection if it has any metal parts deemed to be a
shock hazard, indicated by there being an earth terminal in the
luminaire itself).

Curiously, I notice the mix 'n' match between the old and the current
colour coding of the cabling and the pendant lamp holder flex. The
absence of an earth wire is entirely normal for such pendant lamp
sockets. However, if you choose to hang a metal chandelier off the
ceiling rose, it should be wired with a 3 wire cord with a
green/yellow earth wire which should be connected to the earth
terminal in the ceiling rose (marked '9' in the diagram) but in this
case, joined to the bunched earths, preferably using another chocolate
block if you're rewiring this on the cheap.

One other thing, the diagram implies that the wire entries into the
screw terminal strips can go in either way. Normally they can only go
in from the same side, including the blue and brown wires of the
pendant cord which is usually routed around strain relief posts to go
into the connector blocks on the same side as the cabling conductors.

Perhaps I should have found a better picture?


I guess the ease with which the guys on here diagnosed the problem
suggests it's a relatively normal setup. Thanks for the diagram which I
shall file for information.

Make a note of the following page as well, its got lots of stuff on the
common variations:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...ers#Lightin g




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 09/03/2015 00:11, John Rumm wrote:
On 08/03/2015 10:41, stuart noble wrote:
On 08/03/2015 04:37, Johny B Good wrote:
On Sat, 07 Mar 2015 13:56:45 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 07/03/2015 13:47, stuart noble wrote:
Hi All
Hope I'm not the only one whose mind goes blank looking at wiring
diagrams.
Took the old plastic bathroom ceiling light down but, on yanking the
wiring through the lath and plaster, ended up with this little lot
(plus
a 6" length of black cable attached to nothing). Don't know where the
spare black cable in the pic came from, or the loose one.



As is, we have power if I wire a lamp up to the terminal blocks but
the
pull switch doesn't turn it off. Very difficult to trace wiring any
further without serious disruption, so a degree of trial and error
would
be ok.
The earth will be sorted out of course because the new fitting has a
metal base, but any other thoughts appreciated.


Wire the bulb between the spare black wire and terminal 'D'

The spare black wire is likely to be the live return from the switch
and
ideally should have had a red sleeve over it to show it has been reused
as a switched live connector.

Normally the lighting feed from the CU 6A fuse bridge is daisychained
from ceiling rose to ceiling rose with a switch drop from each ceiling
rose.

See here for a clear wiring diagram of this arrangement:

http://www.davesdiytips.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/daves-ceiling-rose.jpg



However, what you have here is a third B (assuming that the mains
feed goes from left to right), which is a spur off the daisychain to
provide another ceiling rose with a permanent LN&E feed.

The only silly thing (I've only just spotted) is the improbable use
of a specially colour coded T&E switch drop cable. This is more likely
to be just another length of FT&E (in old money Red, Black and bare
copper protective earth) with the black used as the switched live
return with a red sleeve to warn that this is the case (incidently,
also acting as a switch drop label if all three (or, in this case,
four) cables are disconnected from the ceiling rose terminal block).

In this case, the chocolate blocks are standing in for those
connections normally found in a ceiling rose which has obviously been
displaced by the ceiling mounted luminaire (which, incidently, should
also have an earth connection if it has any metal parts deemed to be a
shock hazard, indicated by there being an earth terminal in the
luminaire itself).

Curiously, I notice the mix 'n' match between the old and the current
colour coding of the cabling and the pendant lamp holder flex. The
absence of an earth wire is entirely normal for such pendant lamp
sockets. However, if you choose to hang a metal chandelier off the
ceiling rose, it should be wired with a 3 wire cord with a
green/yellow earth wire which should be connected to the earth
terminal in the ceiling rose (marked '9' in the diagram) but in this
case, joined to the bunched earths, preferably using another chocolate
block if you're rewiring this on the cheap.

One other thing, the diagram implies that the wire entries into the
screw terminal strips can go in either way. Normally they can only go
in from the same side, including the blue and brown wires of the
pendant cord which is usually routed around strain relief posts to go
into the connector blocks on the same side as the cabling conductors.

Perhaps I should have found a better picture?


I guess the ease with which the guys on here diagnosed the problem
suggests it's a relatively normal setup. Thanks for the diagram which I
shall file for information.

Make a note of the following page as well, its got lots of stuff on the
common variations:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...ers#Lightin g





Will do. Thanks John

replying to jgh, handtrigger73 wrote:
from what ive read of this thread not one of you is a properly qualified
sparky, and tbh, your all talking ****


--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...e-1031048-.htm

In article ,
handtrigger73 m
wrote:
replying to jgh, handtrigger73 wrote:
from what ive read of this thread not one of you is a properly qualified
sparky, and tbh, your all talking ****

Is the kindergarten out early?

--
*I went to school to become a wit, only got halfway through.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

That is constructive, yes really.

I'd do it digitally myself if I had to wherever it was.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"handtrigger73" m wrote
in message ...
replying to jgh, handtrigger73 wrote:
from what ive read of this thread not one of you is a properly qualified
sparky, and tbh, your all talking ****


--
for full context, visit
https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...e-1031048-.htm

On 02/02/2017 15:44, handtrigger73 wrote:
replying to jgh, handtrigger73 wrote:
from what ive read of this thread not one of you is a properly qualified
sparky, and tbh, your all talking ****



And the same to you with brass knobs on you steaming great ****.

--
Adam

On 02/02/2017 15:44, handjob73 wrote:
replying to jgh, handtrigger73 wrote:
from what ive read of this thread not one of you is a properly qualified
sparky,

You wouldn't know the difference.

and tbh, your all talking ****

Is that the best you can come up with in nearly 2 years?

handtrigger73 m wrote:
replying to jgh, handtrigger73 wrote:
from what ive read of this thread not one of you is a properly qualified
sparky, and tbh, your all talking ****



Ha ha. Bit rich coming from a man replying to a two year old thread. Who
doesn't know that sentences begin with a capital letter. Who doesn't know
that "ive" has a capital I and an apostrophe. Who doesn't know that the
contracted form of "you are" is "you're".

Now who's talking ****?

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

En el artículo , ARW adamwadsworth@b
lueyonder.co.uk escribió:

And the same to you with brass knobs on you steaming great ****.

Say what you /really/ think, Adam.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
(")_(")

In article ,
Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artículo , ARW adamwadsworth@b
lueyonder.co.uk escribió:

And the same to you with brass knobs on you steaming great ****.

Say what you /really/ think, Adam.


Perhaps it's one of Adam's failed apprentices? The sort who only know how
to use a phone?

--
*I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.