Following on from the previous wall plug threads, I am now contemplating
the strategy of glueing wooden plugs made from broom handle into the wall.

I have the drills, I can buy the broom handles.

I do have questions about the glue, though.

I am thinking of using

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...in-175ml/53359

which seems to fit the bill, but I have no idea how much I will need.

I assume I treat the broom handle more or less like a massive dowel, with
a snug fit and some grooves to help hold the glue.

However I have no real idea how much space I should allow around the wood
(should a 24mm broom handle have a 25mm hole, for instance?).

Anyway, onwards and upwards.

Any advice from someone who has already used this strategy more than
welcome.

Given that I can remember the time when fibre rawplugs were the new thing
in DIY because they were easier than cutting wooden plugs, this seems like
deja vu.

Cheers

Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

Given that I can remember the time when fibre rawplugs were the new
thing in DIY because they were easier than cutting wooden plugs, this
seems like deja vu.

Cheers

Dave R


The old fibre plugs used to split open and wedge tightly in the hole as the
old woodscrews had a tapered root diameter. Modern screws tend to have a
fairly parallel root to the thread as well as sharper threads and they tend
to cut themselves a thread into the plug rather than forcing them open.
Personally, the modern scres are great for timber as they are less likely
to cause splits - but this is not what you want in a wallplug - you want
the "splitting" tendency.

"David" wrote in message
...
Following on from the previous wall plug threads, I am now contemplating
the strategy of glueing wooden plugs made from broom handle into the wall.

I have the drills, I can buy the broom handles.

I do have questions about the glue, though.

I am thinking of using

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...in-175ml/53359

which seems to fit the bill, but I have no idea how much I will need.

I assume I treat the broom handle more or less like a massive dowel, with
a snug fit and some grooves to help hold the glue.

However I have no real idea how much space I should allow around the wood
(should a 24mm broom handle have a 25mm hole, for instance?).

Anyway, onwards and upwards.

Any advice from someone who has already used this strategy more than
welcome.

Given that I can remember the time when fibre rawplugs were the new thing
in DIY because they were easier than cutting wooden plugs, this seems like
deja vu.

Cheers

Dave R

I have used large dowel as wall plug a couple of times in the past. I think
your measurements are more than adequate. Can't comment on adhesive as I
have no experience of this stuff.
Presumably you're drilling into masonry and screwing something into the ends
of the dowels (haven't seen prev thread) if so:
1) hole in masonry is likely to end up a little larger.
2) cross dowel the broom handle before fitting, allows screw fixings to be
used in endgrain.
3) use a hardwood broom handle.

hth
Nick.

On Fri, 06 Mar 2015 15:49:15 +0000, Nick wrote:

"David" wrote in message
...
Following on from the previous wall plug threads, I am now
contemplating the strategy of glueing wooden plugs made from broom
handle into the wall.

I have the drills, I can buy the broom handles.

I do have questions about the glue, though.

I am thinking of using

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...in-175ml/53359

which seems to fit the bill, but I have no idea how much I will need.

I assume I treat the broom handle more or less like a massive dowel,
with a snug fit and some grooves to help hold the glue.

However I have no real idea how much space I should allow around the
wood (should a 24mm broom handle have a 25mm hole, for instance?).

Anyway, onwards and upwards.

Any advice from someone who has already used this strategy more than
welcome.

Given that I can remember the time when fibre rawplugs were the new
thing in DIY because they were easier than cutting wooden plugs, this
seems like deja vu.

Cheers

Dave R

I have used large dowel as wall plug a couple of times in the past. I
think your measurements are more than adequate. Can't comment on
adhesive as I have no experience of this stuff.
Presumably you're drilling into masonry and screwing something into the
ends of the dowels (haven't seen prev thread) if so:
1) hole in masonry is likely to end up a little larger.
2) cross dowel the broom handle before fitting, allows screw fixings to
be used in endgrain.
3) use a hardwood broom handle.

hth Nick.

Thanks - not sure what you mean by "cross dowel" though.

Google shows me metal things as found in Ikea furniture.



--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

On 06/03/2015 17:50, David wrote:
On Fri, 06 Mar 2015 15:49:15 +0000, Nick wrote:

"David" wrote in message
...
Following on from the previous wall plug threads, I am now
contemplating the strategy of glueing wooden plugs made from broom
handle into the wall.

I have the drills, I can buy the broom handles.

I do have questions about the glue, though.

I am thinking of using

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...in-175ml/53359

which seems to fit the bill, but I have no idea how much I will need.

I assume I treat the broom handle more or less like a massive dowel,
with a snug fit and some grooves to help hold the glue.

However I have no real idea how much space I should allow around the
wood (should a 24mm broom handle have a 25mm hole, for instance?).

Anyway, onwards and upwards.

Any advice from someone who has already used this strategy more than
welcome.

Given that I can remember the time when fibre rawplugs were the new
thing in DIY because they were easier than cutting wooden plugs, this
seems like deja vu.

Cheers

Dave R

I have used large dowel as wall plug a couple of times in the past. I
think your measurements are more than adequate. Can't comment on
adhesive as I have no experience of this stuff.
Presumably you're drilling into masonry and screwing something into the
ends of the dowels (haven't seen prev thread) if so:
1) hole in masonry is likely to end up a little larger.
2) cross dowel the broom handle before fitting, allows screw fixings to
be used in endgrain.
3) use a hardwood broom handle.

hth Nick.

Thanks - not sure what you mean by "cross dowel" though.

Google shows me metal things as found in Ikea furniture.



Drill a hole through the side of the broom handle plug and insert a
dowel. That was the screw has the side of the dowel to bite into,
rather than just the end grain of the broom handle.

When I use resin it's a 12mm hole for a 10mm stud, so I'm guessing 20%
extra in diameter.

Don't get the resin on hands or skirting - its a right sod to remove
once it sets.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Fri, 06 Mar 2015 20:15:18 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

On 06/03/2015 17:50, David wrote:
On Fri, 06 Mar 2015 15:49:15 +0000, Nick wrote:

"David" wrote in message
...
Following on from the previous wall plug threads, I am now
contemplating the strategy of glueing wooden plugs made from broom
handle into the wall.

I have the drills, I can buy the broom handles.

I do have questions about the glue, though.

I am thinking of using

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...in-175ml/53359

which seems to fit the bill, but I have no idea how much I will need.

I assume I treat the broom handle more or less like a massive dowel,
with a snug fit and some grooves to help hold the glue.

However I have no real idea how much space I should allow around the
wood (should a 24mm broom handle have a 25mm hole, for instance?).

Anyway, onwards and upwards.

Any advice from someone who has already used this strategy more than
welcome.

Given that I can remember the time when fibre rawplugs were the new
thing in DIY because they were easier than cutting wooden plugs, this
seems like deja vu.

Cheers

Dave R

I have used large dowel as wall plug a couple of times in the past. I
think your measurements are more than adequate. Can't comment on
adhesive as I have no experience of this stuff.
Presumably you're drilling into masonry and screwing something into
the ends of the dowels (haven't seen prev thread) if so:
1) hole in masonry is likely to end up a little larger.
2) cross dowel the broom handle before fitting, allows screw fixings
to be used in endgrain.
3) use a hardwood broom handle.

hth Nick.

Thanks - not sure what you mean by "cross dowel" though.

Google shows me metal things as found in Ikea furniture.



Drill a hole through the side of the broom handle plug and insert a
dowel. That was the screw has the side of the dowel to bite into,
rather than just the end grain of the broom handle.

When I use resin it's a 12mm hole for a 10mm stud, so I'm guessing 20%
extra in diameter.

Don't get the resin on hands or skirting - its a right sod to remove
once it sets.

O.K. - thanks.
This made me think of just putting the broom handle in sideways but then
you need any wood, plus an efficient way of cutting a non-circular hole.

This is getting more complicated - as I now need some dowel as well.

Oh, well - onwards and upwards.

Cheers

Dave R



--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

If your "cinder blocks" are the type with hollow sections in the middle then you are probably going to hit problems if you cannot avoid the hollows. In your other thread I suggested fixing blocks of wood the same thickness as the plaster around the curved wall then you can screw through into the blocks. If you get them reasonably wide 75mm + then you might get away with just glueing them on with Gripfill, however you will have to scrape as much plaster off the glueing area as possible and seal what remains with PVA. As an alternative or in addition use several screws to hold the blocks on. Drilling these screws in at an angle will give a dovetail effect. It's all about spreading the fixing point over a wider area rather than concentrating the tension at one point.

Richard

On Fri, 06 Mar 2015 07:49:36 -0800, Tricky Dicky wrote:

If your "cinder blocks" are the type with hollow sections in the middle
then you are probably going to hit problems if you cannot avoid the
hollows. In your other thread I suggested fixing blocks of wood the same
thickness as the plaster around the curved wall then you can screw
through into the blocks. If you get them reasonably wide 75mm + then you
might get away with just glueing them on with Gripfill, however you will
have to scrape as much plaster off the glueing area as possible and seal
what remains with PVA. As an alternative or in addition use several
screws to hold the blocks on. Drilling these screws in at an angle will
give a dovetail effect. It's all about spreading the fixing point over a
wider area rather than concentrating the tension at one point.

Richard

Ah!

I completely misunderstood your previous post, then.
I thought you were talking about sinking a plug into the wall (as
suggested by another poster).
Interesting approach.
Almost a skirting board section behind the skirting board.

Only down side might be the depth of the wood - the plaster is only 15mm
thick so I would only be able to use at maximum 15mm thick wood, and that
would need shaping.
So there is a danger that the screw would just rip out of the 15mm board
behind it.

I would be happier with more depth for the screw to grip.

Cheers


Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

On Friday, March 6, 2015 at 2:38:38 PM UTC, David wrote:
Following on from the previous wall plug threads, I am now contemplating
the strategy of glueing wooden plugs made from broom handle into the wall.

I have the drills, I can buy the broom handles.

I do have questions about the glue, though.

I am thinking of using

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...in-175ml/53359

which seems to fit the bill, but I have no idea how much I will need.

I assume I treat the broom handle more or less like a massive dowel, with
a snug fit and some grooves to help hold the glue.

However I have no real idea how much space I should allow around the wood
(should a 24mm broom handle have a 25mm hole, for instance?).

Anyway, onwards and upwards.

Any advice from someone who has already used this strategy more than
welcome.

Given that I can remember the time when fibre rawplugs were the new thing
in DIY because they were easier than cutting wooden plugs, this seems like
deja vu.

Cheers

Dave R

Masonry holes usually come out a bit bigger than the bit, so a 24mm bit for 24mm wood should be ok.

It depends what you're fixing, but for the usual loads, powdered interior filler is more than strong enough. Just stick some in the hole & press the dowel in, excess will ooze out. It does take 2-3 days to dry fully.


NT

On Fri, 06 Mar 2015 07:54:23 -0800, meow2222 wrote:

On Friday, March 6, 2015 at 2:38:38 PM UTC, David wrote:
Following on from the previous wall plug threads, I am now
contemplating the strategy of glueing wooden plugs made from broom
handle into the wall.

I have the drills, I can buy the broom handles.

I do have questions about the glue, though.

I am thinking of using

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...in-175ml/53359

which seems to fit the bill, but I have no idea how much I will need.

I assume I treat the broom handle more or less like a massive dowel,
with a snug fit and some grooves to help hold the glue.

However I have no real idea how much space I should allow around the
wood (should a 24mm broom handle have a 25mm hole, for instance?).

Anyway, onwards and upwards.

Any advice from someone who has already used this strategy more than
welcome.

Given that I can remember the time when fibre rawplugs were the new
thing in DIY because they were easier than cutting wooden plugs, this
seems like deja vu.

Cheers

Dave R

Masonry holes usually come out a bit bigger than the bit, so a 24mm bit
for 24mm wood should be ok.

It depends what you're fixing, but for the usual loads, powdered
interior filler is more than strong enough. Just stick some in the hole
& press the dowel in, excess will ooze out. It does take 2-3 days to dry
fully.


I've bought some two part adhesive for fixing studs into crumbly walls.
Seems a lot more sticky than interior filler.

However I've got to swap the tube.
I went to get the one linked to above, which uses a normal applicator gun.
They didn't have any, and offered me the next size up.
They didn't tell me that this version requires a £30 specialist applicator
gun!
So going back tomorrow to swap it for two small ones which I have ordered.

So far nobody has said "Yes, I did that and this is how it went".

Cheers


Dave R




--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

On 06/03/2015 17:48, David wrote:
On Fri, 06 Mar 2015 07:54:23 -0800, meow2222 wrote:

On Friday, March 6, 2015 at 2:38:38 PM UTC, David wrote:
Following on from the previous wall plug threads, I am now
contemplating the strategy of glueing wooden plugs made from broom
handle into the wall.

I have the drills, I can buy the broom handles.

I do have questions about the glue, though.

I am thinking of using

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...in-175ml/53359

which seems to fit the bill, but I have no idea how much I will need.

I assume I treat the broom handle more or less like a massive dowel,
with a snug fit and some grooves to help hold the glue.

However I have no real idea how much space I should allow around the
wood (should a 24mm broom handle have a 25mm hole, for instance?).

Anyway, onwards and upwards.

Any advice from someone who has already used this strategy more than
welcome.

Given that I can remember the time when fibre rawplugs were the new
thing in DIY because they were easier than cutting wooden plugs, this
seems like deja vu.

Cheers

Dave R

Masonry holes usually come out a bit bigger than the bit, so a 24mm bit
for 24mm wood should be ok.

It depends what you're fixing, but for the usual loads, powdered
interior filler is more than strong enough. Just stick some in the hole
& press the dowel in, excess will ooze out. It does take 2-3 days to dry
fully.


I've bought some two part adhesive for fixing studs into crumbly walls.
Seems a lot more sticky than interior filler.

However I've got to swap the tube.
I went to get the one linked to above, which uses a normal applicator gun.
They didn't have any, and offered me the next size up.
They didn't tell me that this version requires a £30 specialist applicator
gun!
So going back tomorrow to swap it for two small ones which I have ordered.

So far nobody has said "Yes, I did that and this is how it went".

Cheers


Dave R




Can' t remember whether you gave the thickness of the mdf you were
trying to bend, but half a dozen 2mm pieces would probably bend easily
and be stable when glued together. Broom handle dowels is not the answer
IMO. Things held under that much tension probably won't stay put for long.

On 06/03/2015 19:20, stuart noble wrote:
On 06/03/2015 17:48, David wrote:
On Fri, 06 Mar 2015 07:54:23 -0800, meow2222 wrote:

On Friday, March 6, 2015 at 2:38:38 PM UTC, David wrote:
Following on from the previous wall plug threads, I am now
contemplating the strategy of glueing wooden plugs made from broom
handle into the wall.

I have the drills, I can buy the broom handles.

I do have questions about the glue, though.

I am thinking of using

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...in-175ml/53359

which seems to fit the bill, but I have no idea how much I will need.

I assume I treat the broom handle more or less like a massive dowel,
with a snug fit and some grooves to help hold the glue.

However I have no real idea how much space I should allow around the
wood (should a 24mm broom handle have a 25mm hole, for instance?).

Anyway, onwards and upwards.

Any advice from someone who has already used this strategy more than
welcome.

Given that I can remember the time when fibre rawplugs were the new
thing in DIY because they were easier than cutting wooden plugs, this
seems like deja vu.

Cheers

Dave R

Masonry holes usually come out a bit bigger than the bit, so a 24mm bit
for 24mm wood should be ok.

It depends what you're fixing, but for the usual loads, powdered
interior filler is more than strong enough. Just stick some in the hole
& press the dowel in, excess will ooze out. It does take 2-3 days to dry
fully.


I've bought some two part adhesive for fixing studs into crumbly walls.
Seems a lot more sticky than interior filler.

However I've got to swap the tube.
I went to get the one linked to above, which uses a normal applicator
gun.
They didn't have any, and offered me the next size up.
They didn't tell me that this version requires a £30 specialist
applicator
gun!
So going back tomorrow to swap it for two small ones which I have
ordered.

So far nobody has said "Yes, I did that and this is how it went".

Cheers


Dave R




Can' t remember whether you gave the thickness of the mdf you were
trying to bend, but half a dozen 2mm pieces would probably bend easily
and be stable when glued together. Broom handle dowels is not the answer
IMO. Things held under that much tension probably won't stay put for long.

+1


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Fri, 06 Mar 2015 14:38:35 +0000, David wrote:

Following on from the previous wall plug threads, I am now contemplating
the strategy of glueing wooden plugs made from broom handle into the
wall.

I have the drills, I can buy the broom handles.

I do have questions about the glue, though.

I am thinking of using

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...in-175ml/53359

which seems to fit the bill, but I have no idea how much I will need.

I assume I treat the broom handle more or less like a massive dowel,
with a snug fit and some grooves to help hold the glue.

However I have no real idea how much space I should allow around the
wood (should a 24mm broom handle have a 25mm hole, for instance?).

Anyway, onwards and upwards.

Any advice from someone who has already used this strategy more than
welcome.

Given that I can remember the time when fibre rawplugs were the new
thing in DIY because they were easier than cutting wooden plugs, this
seems like deja vu.


Here is a long awaited photo!

http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/z...ounge%20Floor/
DSC_0975.jpg



--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

On Friday, March 6, 2015 at 8:37:54 PM UTC, David wrote:

Following on from the previous wall plug threads, I am now contemplating
the strategy of glueing wooden plugs made from broom handle into the
wall.

Here is a long awaited photo!

http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/z...ounge%20Floor/
DSC_0975.jpg

If that's all you're fixing, why the OTT fixings?


NT

On Fri, 06 Mar 2015 14:21:22 -0800, meow2222 wrote:

On Friday, March 6, 2015 at 8:37:54 PM UTC, David wrote:

Following on from the previous wall plug threads, I am now
contemplating the strategy of glueing wooden plugs made from broom
handle into the wall.

Here is a long awaited photo!

http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/z...ounge%20Floor/
DSC_0975.jpg

If that's all you're fixing, why the OTT fixings?


NT

Because it won't conform in detail with the curve, even though it is
roughly the correct shape.

The main reason for the OTT fixings is that that the wall behind is just a
bit too crumbly. I get the skirting just about flat up to the wall, then
the screw slackens off again because it has destroyed the plastic plug and/
or the wall.

I have wondered about using plastic plugs and glue to try and stop them
ripping the wall.

I am assuming that one benefit of the 23-24mm diameter wooden plugs is the
much larger contact area between the plugs and the surrounding wall.

I hope that the plugs don't just get bigger and bigger until I need to
rebuild that part of the wall!

Cheers

Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

On Saturday, March 7, 2015 at 11:15:29 AM UTC, David wrote:
On Fri, 06 Mar 2015 14:21:22 -0800, meow2222 wrote:
On Friday, March 6, 2015 at 8:37:54 PM UTC, David wrote:


Following on from the previous wall plug threads, I am now
contemplating the strategy of glueing wooden plugs made from broom
handle into the wall.

Here is a long awaited photo!

http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/z...ounge%20Floor/
DSC_0975.jpg

If that's all you're fixing, why the OTT fixings?

Because it won't conform in detail with the curve, even though it is
roughly the correct shape.

The main reason for the OTT fixings is that that the wall behind is just a
bit too crumbly. I get the skirting just about flat up to the wall, then
the screw slackens off again because it has destroyed the plastic plug and/
or the wall.

I have wondered about using plastic plugs and glue to try and stop them
ripping the wall.

I am assuming that one benefit of the 23-24mm diameter wooden plugs is the
much larger contact area between the plugs and the surrounding wall.

I hope that the plugs don't just get bigger and bigger until I need to
rebuild that part of the wall!

Cheers

Dave R

Well, I'd stick them in with polyfilla, no need for anything tougher. I'd definitely paint the holes with pva before polyfilling.


NT

On 06/03/2015 20:37, David wrote:
On Fri, 06 Mar 2015 14:38:35 +0000, David wrote:

Following on from the previous wall plug threads, I am now contemplating
the strategy of glueing wooden plugs made from broom handle into the
wall.

I have the drills, I can buy the broom handles.

I do have questions about the glue, though.

I am thinking of using

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...in-175ml/53359

which seems to fit the bill, but I have no idea how much I will need.

I assume I treat the broom handle more or less like a massive dowel,
with a snug fit and some grooves to help hold the glue.

However I have no real idea how much space I should allow around the
wood (should a 24mm broom handle have a 25mm hole, for instance?).

Anyway, onwards and upwards.

Any advice from someone who has already used this strategy more than
welcome.

Given that I can remember the time when fibre rawplugs were the new
thing in DIY because they were easier than cutting wooden plugs, this
seems like deja vu.


Here is a long awaited photo!

http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/z...ounge%20Floor/
DSC_0975.jpg



Quite a range of cordless drills there! :-)