Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flange they fit over?
I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to
fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and the bolts/nuts would get in the way. Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they would not get in the way of the drawers at all. But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a spire nut? MM |
#2
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flangethey fit over?
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 14:36:23 +0000, MM wrote:
I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and the bolts/nuts would get in the way. Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they would not get in the way of the drawers at all. But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a spire nut? I had to do something similar recently. I used (in my case M8) coach bolts from underneath, a slight recess being necessarily to clear the dome of the head. Then M8 nuts on the top. Had to cut the coach bolts down as most of them come in a good deal longer. -- My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub wish to copy them they can pay me £30a message. Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org *lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor |
#3
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flange they fit over?
On 8 Feb 2015 14:58:49 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 14:36:23 +0000, MM wrote: I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and the bolts/nuts would get in the way. Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they would not get in the way of the drawers at all. But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a spire nut? I had to do something similar recently. I used (in my case M8) coach bolts from underneath, a slight recess being necessarily to clear the dome of the head. Then M8 nuts on the top. Ah, but once the guillotine is in place on top of the shelf I cannot get to its flanges which are on the *inside* ! I did first think of glueing nuts in place (Araldite or similar) before laying the 'tine on top of the shelf, but then I remembered the spire nuts I used a lot in the 1960s. NB: The flanges are L-shaped, with the fixing edge being the lower part of the "L" (i.e. facing inwards). The right-hand side's "L" flange is a mirror image of the left. MM |
#4
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flangethey fit over?
On 08/02/2015 14:36, MM wrote:
I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and the bolts/nuts would get in the way. Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they would not get in the way of the drawers at all. But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a spire nut? MM Surely a countersunk machine screw from underneath, with a nut on the top is the simplest option. All sizes/types available in relatively small quantities from eBay. |
#5
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flange they fit over?
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 15:02:52 +0000, newshound
wrote: On 08/02/2015 14:36, MM wrote: I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and the bolts/nuts would get in the way. Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they would not get in the way of the drawers at all. But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a spire nut? MM Surely a countersunk machine screw from underneath, with a nut on the top is the simplest option. All sizes/types available in relatively small quantities from eBay. See my reply to Bob above. The fixing flanges are on the *inside*. MM |
#6
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness offlange they fit over?
MM wrote:
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 15:02:52 +0000, newshound wrote: On 08/02/2015 14:36, MM wrote: I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and the bolts/nuts would get in the way. Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they would not get in the way of the drawers at all. But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a spire nut? MM Surely a countersunk machine screw from underneath, with a nut on the top is the simplest option. All sizes/types available in relatively small quantities from eBay. See my reply to Bob above. The fixing flanges are on the *inside*. MM Glue the nuts and a serrated spring washer in place first. this should be enough to allow assembly and then when tightening, the spring washer should take over, break the glue and keep it tight. |
#7
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flange they fit over?
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 16:34:00 +0000, Bob Minchin
wrote: MM wrote: On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 15:02:52 +0000, newshound wrote: On 08/02/2015 14:36, MM wrote: I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and the bolts/nuts would get in the way. Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they would not get in the way of the drawers at all. But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a spire nut? MM Surely a countersunk machine screw from underneath, with a nut on the top is the simplest option. All sizes/types available in relatively small quantities from eBay. See my reply to Bob above. The fixing flanges are on the *inside*. MM Glue the nuts and a serrated spring washer in place first. this should be enough to allow assembly and then when tightening, the spring washer should take over, break the glue and keep it tight. Yep, that was pretty much my first idea. But I don't have any suitable glue or (for your suggestion) serrated washers, so it could be cheaper buying the spire nuts! I'm first going to check my local hardwarew store tomorrow. Yes, we still have an old-fashioned store with boxes of loose screws, nuts, etc. They may well stock spire nuts, too, as they have pretty much every other kind of fixing. Since I wrote this I had another brainwave: Stick the nuts in place with Bluetak! I do have plenty of that. Then gingerly insert each screw. MM |
#8
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flangethey fit over?
On 08/02/2015 16:45, MM wrote:
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 16:34:00 +0000, Bob Minchin wrote: MM wrote: On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 15:02:52 +0000, newshound wrote: On 08/02/2015 14:36, MM wrote: I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and the bolts/nuts would get in the way. Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they would not get in the way of the drawers at all. But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a spire nut? MM Surely a countersunk machine screw from underneath, with a nut on the top is the simplest option. All sizes/types available in relatively small quantities from eBay. See my reply to Bob above. The fixing flanges are on the *inside*. MM Glue the nuts and a serrated spring washer in place first. this should be enough to allow assembly and then when tightening, the spring washer should take over, break the glue and keep it tight. Yep, that was pretty much my first idea. But I don't have any suitable glue or (for your suggestion) serrated washers, so it could be cheaper buying the spire nuts! I'm first going to check my local hardwarew store tomorrow. Yes, we still have an old-fashioned store with boxes of loose screws, nuts, etc. They may well stock spire nuts, too, as they have pretty much every other kind of fixing. Since I wrote this I had another brainwave: Stick the nuts in place with Bluetak! I do have plenty of that. Then gingerly insert each screw. MM Or tap the flange. |
#9
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flange they fit over?
"MM" wrote in message ... On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 15:02:52 +0000, newshound wrote: On 08/02/2015 14:36, MM wrote: I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and the bolts/nuts would get in the way. Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they would not get in the way of the drawers at all. But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a spire nut? MM Surely a countersunk machine screw from underneath, with a nut on the top is the simplest option. All sizes/types available in relatively small quantities from eBay. See my reply to Bob above. The fixing flanges are on the *inside*. Why can't you use a self tapper with a countersink head ? |
#10
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flange they fit over?
In article ,
MM wrote: I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and the bolts/nuts would get in the way. Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they would not get in the way of the drawers at all. But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a spire nut? Why not use pronged T nuts into the underside of the shelf? They only protrude about 2mm below the shelf and the majority of the tread is within the shelf. You could rebate them in flush if needed. They stay in place when the bolt is removed. Come in most common sizes - from Toolstation, etc. -- *Virtual reality is its own reward * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#11
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flange they fit over?
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 18:40:18 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: In article , MM wrote: I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and the bolts/nuts would get in the way. Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they would not get in the way of the drawers at all. But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a spire nut? Why not use pronged T nuts into the underside of the shelf? They only protrude about 2mm below the shelf and the majority of the tread is within the shelf. You could rebate them in flush if needed. They stay in place when the bolt is removed. Come in most common sizes - from Toolstation, etc. I can't get to the inside of the guillotine to insert/tighten bolts or screws. (The guillotine is like a metal box with the knife down one side and L-shaped flanges underneath which have the fixing holes. Trouble is, the flanges both point INwards. Once the 'tine is on the shelf, the L-flanges with the fixing holes are hidden. I can't get at them.) MM |
#12
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flangethey fit over?
On 08/02/2015 18:57, MM wrote:
I can't get to the inside of the guillotine to insert/tighten bolts or screws. (The guillotine is like a metal box with the knife down one side and L-shaped flanges underneath which have the fixing holes. Trouble is, the flanges both point INwards. Once the 'tine is on the shelf, the L-flanges with the fixing holes are hidden. I can't get at them.) Why not just use countersunk machine screws from inside the drawer? |
#13
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flange they fit over?
In message . com,
"Dennis@home" writes On 08/02/2015 18:57, MM wrote: I can't get to the inside of the guillotine to insert/tighten bolts or screws. (The guillotine is like a metal box with the knife down one side and L-shaped flanges underneath which have the fixing holes. Trouble is, the flanges both point INwards. Once the 'tine is on the shelf, the L-flanges with the fixing holes are hidden. I can't get at them.) Why not just use countersunk machine screws from inside the drawer? After tapping a thread in the guillotine fixing holes. -- Tim Lamb |
#14
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flange they fit over?
On Sun, 8 Feb 2015 19:35:26 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote: In message . com, "Dennis@home" writes On 08/02/2015 18:57, MM wrote: I can't get to the inside of the guillotine to insert/tighten bolts or screws. (The guillotine is like a metal box with the knife down one side and L-shaped flanges underneath which have the fixing holes. Trouble is, the flanges both point INwards. Once the 'tine is on the shelf, the L-flanges with the fixing holes are hidden. I can't get at them.) Why not just use countersunk machine screws from inside the drawer? After tapping a thread in the guillotine fixing holes. See my recent reply to newshound above. The holes in the flange are elongated and much larger than even M8 bolts. That's the way the designers designed it for some reason, with very large, oval holes. (Perhaps intended in situations where this make/model of guillotine was being installed to replace an existing 'tine from a different manufacturer and the existing bolt/screw holes were misaligned. With elongated holes, plus washers, the new machine could be installed and fixed using the existing holes.) MM |
#15
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flange they fit over?
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 19:06:32 +0000, "Dennis@home"
wrote: On 08/02/2015 18:57, MM wrote: I can't get to the inside of the guillotine to insert/tighten bolts or screws. (The guillotine is like a metal box with the knife down one side and L-shaped flanges underneath which have the fixing holes. Trouble is, the flanges both point INwards. Once the 'tine is on the shelf, the L-flanges with the fixing holes are hidden. I can't get at them.) Why not just use countersunk machine screws from inside the drawer? Screwed into what, though? That's the nub of this topic. The design of the guillotine is such that it is intended to be, optionally, surface-mounted, with bolts through its L-shaped flanges, nuts being applied from beneath. MM |
#16
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flangethey fit over?
On 08/02/2015 23:24, MM wrote:
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 19:06:32 +0000, "Dennis@home" wrote: On 08/02/2015 18:57, MM wrote: I can't get to the inside of the guillotine to insert/tighten bolts or screws. (The guillotine is like a metal box with the knife down one side and L-shaped flanges underneath which have the fixing holes. Trouble is, the flanges both point INwards. Once the 'tine is on the shelf, the L-flanges with the fixing holes are hidden. I can't get at them.) Why not just use countersunk machine screws from inside the drawer? Screwed into what, though? That's the nub of this topic. The design of the guillotine is such that it is intended to be, optionally, surface-mounted, with bolts through its L-shaped flanges, nuts being applied from beneath. MM You tape the nuts onto the flange and put the screws through from below. Gives a flush fit so it doesn't interfere with the drawer. Of course you can use rivnuts or cage nuts as suggested by others if you want. Cage nuts.. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Screws-Washe.../dp/B00IZETYXW |
#17
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flangethey fit over?
MM wrote:
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 18:40:18 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In , wrote: I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and the bolts/nuts would get in the way. Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they would not get in the way of the drawers at all. But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a spire nut? Why not use pronged T nuts into the underside of the shelf? They only protrude about 2mm below the shelf and the majority of the tread is within the shelf. You could rebate them in flush if needed. They stay in place when the bolt is removed. Come in most common sizes - from Toolstation, etc. I can't get to the inside of the guillotine to insert/tighten bolts or screws. (The guillotine is like a metal box with the knife down one side and L-shaped flanges underneath which have the fixing holes. Trouble is, the flanges both point INwards. Once the 'tine is on the shelf, the L-flanges with the fixing holes are hidden. I can't get at them.) MM Maybe I've missed something here, but why not use spire clips? These can be slipped over a flange and will stay in place and can be fixed with M4 say screws. Stretching a spire clip over 2mm edgingis quite feasible IME. If the holes are in the wrong place, just drill some new holes. |
#18
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flange they fit over?
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 21:13:29 +0000, Capitol
wrote: MM wrote: On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 18:40:18 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In , wrote: I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and the bolts/nuts would get in the way. Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they would not get in the way of the drawers at all. But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a spire nut? Why not use pronged T nuts into the underside of the shelf? They only protrude about 2mm below the shelf and the majority of the tread is within the shelf. You could rebate them in flush if needed. They stay in place when the bolt is removed. Come in most common sizes - from Toolstation, etc. I can't get to the inside of the guillotine to insert/tighten bolts or screws. (The guillotine is like a metal box with the knife down one side and L-shaped flanges underneath which have the fixing holes. Trouble is, the flanges both point INwards. Once the 'tine is on the shelf, the L-flanges with the fixing holes are hidden. I can't get at them.) MM Maybe I've missed something here, but why not use spire clips? These can be slipped over a flange and will stay in place and can be fixed with M4 say screws. Stretching a spire clip over 2mm edgingis quite feasible IME. If the holes are in the wrong place, just drill some new holes. Er... see my first post in the thread! MM |
#19
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flangethey fit over?
MM wrote:
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 21:13:29 +0000, Capitol wrote: MM wrote: On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 18:40:18 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In , wrote: I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and the bolts/nuts would get in the way. Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they would not get in the way of the drawers at all. But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a spire nut? Why not use pronged T nuts into the underside of the shelf? They only protrude about 2mm below the shelf and the majority of the tread is within the shelf. You could rebate them in flush if needed. They stay in place when the bolt is removed. Come in most common sizes - from Toolstation, etc. I can't get to the inside of the guillotine to insert/tighten bolts or screws. (The guillotine is like a metal box with the knife down one side and L-shaped flanges underneath which have the fixing holes. Trouble is, the flanges both point INwards. Once the 'tine is on the shelf, the L-flanges with the fixing holes are hidden. I can't get at them.) MM Maybe I've missed something here, but why not use spire clips? These can be slipped over a flange and will stay in place and can be fixed with M4 say screws. Stretching a spire clip over 2mm edgingis quite feasible IME. If the holes are in the wrong place, just drill some new holes. Er... see my first post in the thread! MM Rivnuts. |
#20
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flange they fit over?
In article ,
MM wrote: Why not use pronged T nuts into the underside of the shelf? They only protrude about 2mm below the shelf and the majority of the tread is within the shelf. You could rebate them in flush if needed. They stay in place when the bolt is removed. Come in most common sizes - from Toolstation, etc. I can't get to the inside of the guillotine to insert/tighten bolts or screws. (The guillotine is like a metal box with the knife down one side and L-shaped flanges underneath which have the fixing holes. Trouble is, the flanges both point INwards. Once the 'tine is on the shelf, the L-flanges with the fixing holes are hidden. I can't get at them.) Ah. Sound like rivnuts to the guillotine flange and countersunk machine screws from the underside, then. -- *Procrastination is the art of keeping up with yesterday. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#21
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flangethey fit over?
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In , wrote: Why not use pronged T nuts into the underside of the shelf? They only protrude about 2mm below the shelf and the majority of the tread is within the shelf. You could rebate them in flush if needed. They stay in place when the bolt is removed. Come in most common sizes - from Toolstation, etc. I can't get to the inside of the guillotine to insert/tighten bolts or screws. (The guillotine is like a metal box with the knife down one side and L-shaped flanges underneath which have the fixing holes. Trouble is, the flanges both point INwards. Once the 'tine is on the shelf, the L-flanges with the fixing holes are hidden. I can't get at them.) Ah. Sound like rivnuts to the guillotine flange and countersunk machine screws from the underside, then. Or just spire clips. They are as hard as hell, grip on a flange, don't need fixing tools and can be removed later if required. |
#22
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flange they fit over?
On Mon, 09 Feb 2015 14:14:44 +0000, Capitol
wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In , wrote: Why not use pronged T nuts into the underside of the shelf? They only protrude about 2mm below the shelf and the majority of the tread is within the shelf. You could rebate them in flush if needed. They stay in place when the bolt is removed. Come in most common sizes - from Toolstation, etc. I can't get to the inside of the guillotine to insert/tighten bolts or screws. (The guillotine is like a metal box with the knife down one side and L-shaped flanges underneath which have the fixing holes. Trouble is, the flanges both point INwards. Once the 'tine is on the shelf, the L-flanges with the fixing holes are hidden. I can't get at them.) Ah. Sound like rivnuts to the guillotine flange and countersunk machine screws from the underside, then. Or just spire clips. They are as hard as hell, grip on a flange, don't need fixing tools and can be removed later if required. Yep, this is what I finally used, as I couldn't find any outlet that could supply just 4 rivnuts or rubber rivnuts. I happened to see a small packet of 4 spire nuts at Halfords (in the nuts and bolts section) so I got those. The guillotine is now fixed firmly and the new "pseduo-Ikea/Ivar" drawer underneath looks great. Thanks for all the responses in this thread. MM |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Guttering and Clips | UK diy | |||
Cable Clips!! | UK diy | |||
Ipe Decking - Are these clips ok? | Woodworking | |||
Where can I get hat clips?? | Woodworking | |||
pew clips | Woodworking |