Anyone installed one of these over a door/window? I'm wondering whether
it's enough to cut the ends at 45 degs or whether you need 2 small
mitred sections going back to the wall. Also, any tips on how to get
that nice sweeping curve would be appreciated

On Sun, 04 Jan 2015 09:42:23 +0000, stuart noble wrote:

Anyone installed one of these over a door/window?

Not knowingly. what is it? google ah, support for render above DPC
or opening.

I'm wondering whether it's enough to cut the ends at 45 degs or whether
you need 2 small mitred sections going back to the wall.

Struggling to get my head around the curves and ends. All the
underside of the render needs to be supported so I think it's just a
square cut. With a mitred horizontal section what would you do with
the vertical bit of bead that is now perpendicular to the wall?

Also, any tips on how to get that nice sweeping curve would be
appreciated.

A suitably curved bit of thin board that you can run along the front
edge of the Bellcast Bead and a temporary batten the thickness of the
render fixed above the bead? The former might need a lip to hook
under the bead to keep it running in the same place.

Form the shape, leave to mostly set, remove batten, complete
rendering above. Or render down to a batten leave to set, remove
batten, render in the bellcast. Or a long former (2' ish?) that can
run on the fresh flat render without altering that face but form the
bellcast against the edge of the bead, this would be best I think as
the render and bellcast are of one piece.

--
Cheers
Dave.

stuart noble wrote:

Anyone installed one of these over a door/window?

No.

I'm wondering whether it's enough to cut the ends at 45 degs or
whether you need 2 small mitred sections going back to the wall.
Also, any tips on how to get that nice sweeping curve would be
appreciated

I'd have thought just cut the plastic/metalwork off straight, beyond the
sides of the opening, then do the diagonal cutting-in of the render
itself, as you can nearly make out in this photo ...

http://mybuilder-uploads.s3.amazonaws.com/2_thumb/1114627_6a625af42d.jpg

On 04/01/2015 10:37, Andy Burns wrote:
stuart noble wrote:

Anyone installed one of these over a door/window?

No.

I'm wondering whether it's enough to cut the ends at 45 degs or
whether you need 2 small mitred sections going back to the wall.
Also, any tips on how to get that nice sweeping curve would be
appreciated

I'd have thought just cut the plastic/metalwork off straight, beyond the
sides of the opening, then do the diagonal cutting-in of the render
itself, as you can nearly make out in this photo ...

http://mybuilder-uploads.s3.amazonaws.com/2_thumb/1114627_6a625af42d.jpg

Actually, you're right, the edges are no big deal. Looks like you (or
one) could do those with a trowel edge

"stuart noble" wrote in message
...
Anyone installed one of these over a door/window?

Yes, dozens in fact.


I'm wondering whether
it's enough to cut the ends at 45 degs or whether you need 2 small mitred
sections going back to the wall. Also, any tips on how to get that nice
sweeping curve would be appreciated


Cut the bead 200mm longer than the opening and take it past each end by
100mm.
You don't need returns.

If the wall is previously rendered, you'll be wise to take it back to
brickwork before attaching the bell bead, then PVA and render, get a scratch
coat all over and thicken it out at the bead end.
Leave it for 12-24 hours and second coat it, if you try to get too much on
in one coat it will slump.

On the second coat, once applied, draw the trowel down to the bead in a
curving motion - you'll still be left with lines, these can be removed after
an hour with a damp sponge, which incidentally works all kinds of miracles
where render is concerned

On 04/01/2015 14:27, Phil L wrote:
"stuart noble" wrote in message
...
Anyone installed one of these over a door/window?

Yes, dozens in fact.


I'm wondering whether
it's enough to cut the ends at 45 degs or whether you need 2 small mitred
sections going back to the wall. Also, any tips on how to get that nice
sweeping curve would be appreciated


Cut the bead 200mm longer than the opening and take it past each end by
100mm.
You don't need returns.

If the wall is previously rendered, you'll be wise to take it back to
brickwork before attaching the bell bead, then PVA and render, get a scratch
coat all over and thicken it out at the bead end.
Leave it for 12-24 hours and second coat it, if you try to get too much on
in one coat it will slump.

On the second coat, once applied, draw the trowel down to the bead in a
curving motion - you'll still be left with lines, these can be removed after
an hour with a damp sponge, which incidentally works all kinds of miracles
where render is concerned



Many thanks Phil. Most helpful.
I've half a mind to knock all the old render off and get a man in to
re-do it. It's been on there for 120 years, and crazed here and there,
so probably well overdue.
They seem to use steel mesh on old properties these days. I can only
assume the mesh, or the method of fixing it, has come down in price in
recent years? Do you approve of that approach?

"stuart noble" wrote in message
...

Many thanks Phil. Most helpful.
I've half a mind to knock all the old render off and get a man in to re-do
it. It's been on there for 120 years, and crazed here and there, so
probably well overdue.
They seem to use steel mesh on old properties these days. I can only
assume the mesh, or the method of fixing it, has come down in price in
recent years? Do you approve of that approach?


Render adheres perfectly well to brickwork so I'm not a fan of using mesh,
although it does have it's uses, namely to affix over exterior insulation
like kingspan/celotex etc so as to allow these surfaces to be rendered.

I think this is what you have seen used on old properties.

That said, the 'render' used in these scenarios aren't sand/cement render
but polymers / silicone types that expand and contract and allow the
brickwork to breathe.

If the render on your houses has lasted over a century, I'd be tempted to do
it again to the same specs if it needs it.

If it requires insulating, you'll need the system mentioned above, google:
polymer render

On 04/01/2015 16:31, Phil L wrote:
"stuart noble" wrote in message
...

Many thanks Phil. Most helpful.
I've half a mind to knock all the old render off and get a man in to re-do
it. It's been on there for 120 years, and crazed here and there, so
probably well overdue.
They seem to use steel mesh on old properties these days. I can only
assume the mesh, or the method of fixing it, has come down in price in
recent years? Do you approve of that approach?


Render adheres perfectly well to brickwork so I'm not a fan of using mesh,
although it does have it's uses, namely to affix over exterior insulation
like kingspan/celotex etc so as to allow these surfaces to be rendered.

I think this is what you have seen used on old properties.

That said, the 'render' used in these scenarios aren't sand/cement render
but polymers / silicone types that expand and contract and allow the
brickwork to breathe.

If the render on your houses has lasted over a century, I'd be tempted to do
it again to the same specs if it needs it.

If it requires insulating, you'll need the system mentioned above, google:
polymer render



Thanks again. Wish I had room for some insulation, but the roof slates
barely overhang the gable end wall as it is.
The house where I've seen the mesh used recently had it fixed through
the existing render, presumably to avoid having to hack it off. Yes, I
was aware the render was something other than sand/cement because it
sparkles in the sunlight. I might be slightly sceptical about the
breathing though.