Any ideas on this:

Car starts well - even after 2 weeks in an airport car-park in December
but:
If I stall it when it is warm, it behaves as though the battery is flat -
clunk - nothing. Eventually it recoveres and starts. Could it be down to
residual cylinder compression?

DerbyBorn wrote:
Any ideas on this:

Car starts well - even after 2 weeks in an airport car-park in December
but:
If I stall it when it is warm, it behaves as though the battery is flat -
clunk - nothing. Eventually it recoveres and starts. Could it be down to
residual cylinder compression?

Nope.

Sounds like a sticky starter solenoid that only shows up it's warm.

Strip out starter, remove solenoid, clean plunger, reassemble.

Presume it's an older car (or French)?

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

On 31/12/2014 16:22, DerbyBorn wrote:
Any ideas on this:

Car starts well - even after 2 weeks in an airport car-park in December
but:
If I stall it when it is warm, it behaves as though the battery is flat -
clunk - nothing. Eventually it recoveres and starts. Could it be down to
residual cylinder compression?

I really wouldn't have thought so.

I would expect any cylinder pressure sufficient to cause cranking issues
to dissipate within seconds, or at least the crankshaft would end in
some position of cylinder pressure equilibrium.

Is it an auto?

I presume if manual you have tried out of gear, clutch up and down options?

Fredxxx wrote in :

On 31/12/2014 16:22, DerbyBorn wrote:
Any ideas on this:

Car starts well - even after 2 weeks in an airport car-park in
December but:
If I stall it when it is warm, it behaves as though the battery is
flat - clunk - nothing. Eventually it recoveres and starts. Could it
be down to residual cylinder compression?

I really wouldn't have thought so.

I would expect any cylinder pressure sufficient to cause cranking
issues to dissipate within seconds, or at least the crankshaft would
end in some position of cylinder pressure equilibrium.

Is it an auto?

I presume if manual you have tried out of gear, clutch up and down
options?


2008 (30,000 miles) Honda Jazz

DerbyBorn wrote:
Any ideas on this:

Car starts well - even after 2 weeks in an airport car-park in December
but:
If I stall it when it is warm, it behaves as though the battery is flat -
clunk - nothing. Eventually it recoveres and starts. Could it be down to
residual cylinder compression?


Either battery terminal corrosion or starter solenoid/motor. Have known
earth connection to chassis/engine block to be a problem.

On 31/12/2014 16:55, DerbyBorn wrote:
Fredxxx wrote in :

On 31/12/2014 16:22, DerbyBorn wrote:
Any ideas on this:

Car starts well - even after 2 weeks in an airport car-park in
December but:
If I stall it when it is warm, it behaves as though the battery is
flat - clunk - nothing. Eventually it recoveres and starts. Could it
be down to residual cylinder compression?

I really wouldn't have thought so.

I would expect any cylinder pressure sufficient to cause cranking
issues to dissipate within seconds, or at least the crankshaft would
end in some position of cylinder pressure equilibrium.

Is it an auto?

I presume if manual you have tried out of gear, clutch up and down
options?


2008 (30,000 miles) Honda Jazz

Hybrid with auto? There are differing models.

Should have read the "clunk - nothing" which as Scott suggests is more
likely a starter issue. Either brushes, as in my case recently, or
something associated with the solenoid or solenoid contacts.

30,000 miles suggests the brushes should be ok, though can still be
sticking.

Check silly things like the wiring before anything more drastic!

On 31/12/14 16:34, Scott M wrote:
DerbyBorn wrote:
Any ideas on this:

Car starts well - even after 2 weeks in an airport car-park in December
but:
If I stall it when it is warm, it behaves as though the battery is
flat - clunk - nothing. Eventually it recoveres and starts. Could it
be down to residual cylinder compression?

Nope.

Sounds like a sticky starter solenoid that only shows up it's warm.

Strip out starter, remove solenoid, clean plunger, reassemble.

Presume it's an older car (or French)?

I'd go for starter motor brushes on the blink.

The clunk shows the solenoid is working, so its in the final circuit -
solenoid contacts or brushes.


Screwdriver across the contact terminals should spin the starter if the
brushes are ok.


--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

On 31/12/2014 16:22, DerbyBorn wrote:
Any ideas on this:

Car starts well - even after 2 weeks in an airport car-park in December
but:
If I stall it when it is warm, it behaves as though the battery is flat -
clunk - nothing. Eventually it recoveres and starts. Could it be down to
residual cylinder compression?


No, it's an intermittent problem with the starting system. Could be
anywhere from the ignition switch to the starter relay to the starter
solenoid or the starter motor itself - or possibly with an earth wire
somewhere.

Does it happen every time you try to re-start a hot engine, or only
occasionally. Do the other electrics work normally when you have this
problem. For example, are the headlights ok. Do they dim at all when you
try to start the engine?
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On Wed, 31 Dec 2014 17:20:10 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

The clunk shows the solenoid is working, so its in the final circuit -
solenoid contacts or brushes.

Not conclusive. A few ohms resistance in the main power starter motor
cables or in the chassis bonding from the engine block will produce
the same symptoms.

I'd check all the power connections, after trying to start a bit a
poor one will be warm to hot. Try a jump start cable from engine
block back to the battery chassis terminal to see if there is a
possibilty of a poor engine/chassis connection.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"DerbyBorn" wrote in message
2.236...
Any ideas on this:

Car starts well - even after 2 weeks in an airport car-park in December
but:
If I stall it when it is warm, it behaves as though the battery is flat -
clunk - nothing. Eventually it recoveres and starts. Could it be down to
residual cylinder compression?

Bad connection at the battery, probably the negative, check both to be on
the safe side, take them off and clean the terminals and re-connect, add
some grease to prevent corrosion, then see how you go from there.

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
On 31/12/2014 16:22, DerbyBorn wrote:
Any ideas on this:

Car starts well - even after 2 weeks in an airport car-park in December
but:
If I stall it when it is warm, it behaves as though the battery is flat -
clunk - nothing. Eventually it recoveres and starts. Could it be down to
residual cylinder compression?


No, it's an intermittent problem with the starting system. Could be
anywhere from the ignition switch to the starter relay to the starter
solenoid or the starter motor itself - or possibly with an earth wire
somewhere.

It can even be the battery itself. That's what I got with the battery
supplied with a Hyundai Getz. Never had a problem starting from
cold, but could see that when the car stalled. What was even odder
was that even a jumper start wouldn't work. Characteristically it
would start if you waited long enough after it failed to start.

The obvious test is to measure the voltage at the battery
posts when it is failing to start.

Replaced the battery, never had the problem again.

Presumably the battery had a bad joint internally.

Does it happen every time you try to re-start a hot engine, or only
occasionally. Do the other electrics work normally when you have this
problem. For example, are the headlights ok. Do they dim at all when you
try to start the engine?

On 31/12/14 19:06, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 31 Dec 2014 17:20:10 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

The clunk shows the solenoid is working, so its in the final circuit -
solenoid contacts or brushes.

Not conclusive. A few ohms resistance in the main power starter motor
cables or in the chassis bonding from the engine block will produce
the same symptoms.

That IS the final circuit dear.


I'd check all the power connections, after trying to start a bit a
poor one will be warm to hot. Try a jump start cable from engine
block back to the battery chassis terminal to see if there is a
possibilty of a poor engine/chassis connection.



--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

DerbyBorn wrote


Any ideas on this:

Car starts well - even after 2 weeks in an airport car-park in December
but:
If I stall it when it is warm, it behaves as though the battery is flat -
clunk - nothing. Eventually it recoveres and starts. Could it be down to
residual cylinder compression?


I had a Vauxhall with a Isuzu diesel engine. The ECU used to overheat
and fail. A cup of water over it solved the problem, as a replacement
part was getting on for £200.

The clunk is accompanied with the dash lights going off. I repeat that it
always spins the engine over really fast when cold. It is only after an
accidental stall that the problem shows. I must try to deliberately
reproduce it.

On 01/01/15 09:44, DerbyBorn wrote:
The clunk is accompanied with the dash lights going off.

high resistance battery terminal. 100% definite

wiggle it, remove it, grease it, replace it, and tighten it.


I repeat that it
always spins the engine over really fast when cold. It is only after an
accidental stall that the problem shows. I must try to deliberately
reproduce it.



--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

The Natural Philosopher wrote
DerbyBorn wrote

The clunk is accompanied with the dash lights going off.

high resistance battery terminal.

That is just one possibility.

100% definite

Nope, I got that with a bad battery.

wiggle it, remove it, grease it, replace it, and tighten it.

Didnt help with mine.

I repeat that it
always spins the engine over really fast when cold. It is only after an
accidental stall that the problem shows. I must try to deliberately
reproduce it.

In article ,
Phil L wrote:

"DerbyBorn" wrote in message
2.236...
Any ideas on this:

Car starts well - even after 2 weeks in an airport car-park in
December but: If I stall it when it is warm, it behaves as though the
battery is flat - clunk - nothing. Eventually it recoveres and starts.
Could it be down to residual cylinder compression?

Bad connection at the battery, probably the negative, check both to be
on the safe side, take them off and clean the terminals and re-connect,
add some grease to prevent corrosion, then see how you go from there.

If it's a poor connection to the battery, the dash warning lights etc will
go out or dim more than usual when you operate the starter.

--
*Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote
DerbyBorn wrote

The clunk is accompanied with the dash lights going off.

high resistance battery terminal.

That is just one possibility.

100% definite

Nope, I got that with a bad battery.

You had a bad battery which sometimes spins a cold engine over normally?

wiggle it, remove it, grease it, replace it, and tighten it.

Didn‘t help with mine.

I repeat that it
always spins the engine over really fast when cold. It is only after
an accidental stall that the problem shows. I must try to
deliberately reproduce it.


--
*Eschew obfuscation *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote
The Natural Philosopher wrote
DerbyBorn wrote

The clunk is accompanied with the dash lights going off.

high resistance battery terminal.

That is just one possibility.

100% definite

Nope, I got that with a bad battery.

You had a bad battery which sometimes spins a cold engine over normally?

Yep. It appears to have a poor joint internally. Always
started the cold engine fine. Would sometimes not start
at all when well warmed up, with either a stall or just
frequent engine starts like on the garage/yard sale run.

Absolutely certainly the battery because the
replacement never saw the problem again.

Mate of mine wanted the old one for his solar system
so I didn't demolish it to see what the problem was.

I keep forgetting to ask him how its gone since he got it.

wiggle it, remove it, grease it, replace it, and tighten it.

Didn't help with mine.

I repeat that it always spins the engine over really fast
when cold. It is only after an accidental stall that the
problem shows. I must try to deliberately reproduce it.

I got exactly those symptoms, but with it also sometimes
failing to turn the engine over with high frequency starts
on the garage/yard sale run. That's what happened when
I eventually decided that it must be the battery, it was on
the garage/yard sale run. Usual problem, the dash lights
dimmed right down when you attempted to start, nothing
but the click of the solenoid. Got that mate to give me a
lift to the battery shop. By the time we got back it started
fine with the original battery so I drove it home and fitted
the new battery at home.

Even a jumper start wouldn't start it when it wouldn't
start. Waiting would always see it start eventually.

Presumably it was just a physical break inside the
battery that opened up when the batter was warm
enough and closed again when it cooled down.

Never completely dead, the dash lights were fine but
dimmed down completely when you tried to start.

The proof that it was the battery was that the voltage
across the battery posts themselves, not the terminals,
dropped dramatically when the starter was used.

And obviously the proof was that a new battery fixed it.

That was the original battery supplied
by Hyundai in the car bought new.

Phil L wrote:

Bad connection at the battery, probably the negative, check both to be on
the safe side, take them off and clean the terminals and re-connect, add
some grease to prevent corrosion, then see how you go from there.

The trouble with advising people to grease battey terminals is that they
get it between post and clamp which then acts as a nice insulator. More
than one dodgy starting car I've fixed by giving the terminals a good
grease. Anyway, do lead terminals corrode? Can't say I've come across it.

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

"Scott M" wrote in message
...
Phil L wrote:

Bad connection at the battery, probably the negative, check both to be on
the safe side, take them off and clean the terminals and re-connect, add
some grease to prevent corrosion, then see how you go from there.

The trouble with advising people to grease battey terminals is that they
get it between post and clamp which then acts as a nice insulator.

True.

More than one dodgy starting car I've fixed by giving the terminals a good
grease.

Presumably you mean clean.

Anyway, do lead terminals corrode?

Yes.

Can't say I've come across it.

I have.

On Thu, 01 Jan 2015 12:12:16 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The clunk is accompanied with the dash lights going off.

high resistance battery terminal.

That is just one possibility.

But a very likely one.

100% definite

Nope, I got that with a bad battery.

You had a bad battery which sometimes spins a cold engine over normally?

I've had that. Directly related to ambient temperature, above about 5
C no problems starting. Get down to 0 C and it was very iffy on
turning the engine over. Ambient back above 5 C, no problems again.

Don't think this is the problem here though. Dash lights going out
when trying to start is the classic indication of bad connection(s)
in the heavy duty starter motor wiring.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 01/01/15 23:40, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 01 Jan 2015 12:12:16 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The clunk is accompanied with the dash lights going off.

high resistance battery terminal.

That is just one possibility.

But a very likely one.

100% definite

Nope, I got that with a bad battery.

You had a bad battery which sometimes spins a cold engine over normally?

I've had that. Directly related to ambient temperature, above about 5
C no problems starting. Get down to 0 C and it was very iffy on
turning the engine over. Ambient back above 5 C, no problems again.

Don't think this is the problem here though. Dash lights going out
when trying to start is the classic indication of bad connection(s)
in the heavy duty starter motor wiring.

No, its more specific than that. Its in general the positive terminal on
the battery which feeds EVERY thing. high resistance anywhere else
except the earth terminal wont cause the lamps to dim


--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.co.uk...
On Thu, 01 Jan 2015 12:12:16 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The clunk is accompanied with the dash lights going off.

high resistance battery terminal.

That is just one possibility.

But a very likely one.

100% definite

Nope, I got that with a bad battery.

You had a bad battery which sometimes spins a cold engine over normally?

I've had that. Directly related to ambient temperature, above about 5
C no problems starting. Get down to 0 C and it was very iffy on
turning the engine over. Ambient back above 5 C, no problems again.

Mine was the reverse, never a problem with the engine cold,
only ever a problem with the engine warmed up, like the OP.

Don't think this is the problem here though.

Could well be.

Dash lights going out when trying to start is the classic indication
of bad connection(s) in the heavy duty starter motor wiring.

I got exactly the same result with the dash lights,
essentially because the presumably bad joint inside
the battery could deliver normal currents fine, and
full starting current when cold, but presumably
because something expanded as it warmed up,
it could deliver the dash current fine, but not the
high current needed on starting.

And as I said, the proof is to measure the voltage
across the battery posts themselves and watch it
drop very dramatically when the fault was present.
That eliminates any problem outside the battery.

DerbyBorn wrote:
Any ideas on this:

Car starts well - even after 2 weeks in an airport car-park in December
but:
If I stall it when it is warm, it behaves as though the battery is flat -
clunk - nothing. Eventually it recoveres and starts. Could it be down to
residual cylinder compression?


I don't know if you fixed this yet, but there is a good (if quiet) car
maintenance group at uk.rec.cars.maintenance .

On Fri, 2 Jan 2015 05:42:33 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote
The Natural Philosopher wrote
DerbyBorn wrote

The clunk is accompanied with the dash lights going off.

high resistance battery terminal.

That is just one possibility.

100% definite

Nope, I got that with a bad battery.

You had a bad battery which sometimes spins a cold engine over normally?

Yep. It appears to have a poor joint internally. Always
started the cold engine fine. Would sometimes not start
at all when well warmed up, with either a stall or just
frequent engine starts like on the garage/yard sale run.

Absolutely certainly the battery because the
replacement never saw the problem again.

Mate of mine wanted the old one for his solar system
so I didn't demolish it to see what the problem was.

I keep forgetting to ask him how its gone since he got it.

wiggle it, remove it, grease it, replace it, and tighten it.

Didn't help with mine.

I repeat that it always spins the engine over really fast
when cold. It is only after an accidental stall that the
problem shows. I must try to deliberately reproduce it.

I got exactly those symptoms, but with it also sometimes
failing to turn the engine over with high frequency starts
on the garage/yard sale run. That's what happened when
I eventually decided that it must be the battery, it was on
the garage/yard sale run. Usual problem, the dash lights
dimmed right down when you attempted to start, nothing
but the click of the solenoid. Got that mate to give me a
lift to the battery shop. By the time we got back it started
fine with the original battery so I drove it home and fitted
the new battery at home.

Even a jumper start wouldn't start it when it wouldn't
start. Waiting would always see it start eventually.

Presumably it was just a physical break inside the
battery that opened up when the batter was warm
enough and closed again when it cooled down.

Never completely dead, the dash lights were fine but
dimmed down completely when you tried to start.

The proof that it was the battery was that the voltage
across the battery posts themselves, not the terminals,
dropped dramatically when the starter was used.

You couldn't have devised a more definitive test than that. The only
other remaining possibility for that battery volt drop would be a
starter motor short circuit but I rather expect you'd have seen signs
of the magic smoke escaping from the starter or be able to detect
evidence of the battery cables getting rather hot.


And obviously the proof was that a new battery fixed it.

And that, folks, is the clincher. :-)

That was the original battery supplied
by Hyundai in the car bought new.

Some weird manufacturing defect in the battery. A rather unusual
fault but when it comes to electrochemical energy storage, _anything_
is possible.
--
J B Good

On Fri, 2 Jan 2015 06:42:42 +1100, "john james"
wrote:



"Scott M" wrote in message
...
Phil L wrote:

Bad connection at the battery, probably the negative, check both to be on
the safe side, take them off and clean the terminals and re-connect, add
some grease to prevent corrosion, then see how you go from there.

The trouble with advising people to grease battey terminals is that they
get it between post and clamp which then acts as a nice insulator.

True.

But only if you don't properly tighten the clamps. Provided you
wriggle the clamps a little as you tighten them up to squeeze out the
excess grease (vaseline or silicone), you'll get just as good a
contact as if it where totally dry. The point of the grease is to stop
ingress of any acid into the joint which will corrode a dry joint over
time.


More than one dodgy starting car I've fixed by giving the terminals a good
grease.

Presumably you mean clean.

I'd presume a good clean _followed_ by the application of vaseline or
silicone grease followed by having the clamps properly tightened up.


Anyway, do lead terminals corrode?

Yes.

Lead sulphate corrosion products.


Can't say I've come across it.

I have.

And me, many years ago now. It doesn't seem to be the problem it once
was, presumably the terminal post seals are more durable and effective
on modern batteries these days.

That's not to suggest you can forego the benefit of a light coating
of vaseline over the battery posts and clamps when replacing the
battery (after scraping any lead oxide layers off the terminals
beforehand) to guard against acid ingress that could arise if the
seals are less than perfect or lose their efficacy over the life of
the battery which could be as much as ten years.

Grease only becomes an insulator if you allow it to do so. Properly
fitted battery clamps precludes this particular side effect quite
effectively. What grease resides within the joint will be limited to
the microvoids which act as an insulator anyway, the same microvoids
that allow any acidic contamination to gain ingress and compromise the
initial low resistance contact on first assembly of the joint.
--
J B Good

In article ,
Johny B Good wrote:
But only if you don't properly tighten the clamps. Provided you
wriggle the clamps a little as you tighten them up to squeeze out the
excess grease (vaseline or silicone), you'll get just as good a
contact as if it where totally dry. The point of the grease is to stop
ingress of any acid into the joint which will corrode a dry joint over
time.

Old hat these days since I've not seen an open vent battery in years. Most
are sealed with a small vent tube to one side connected to a pipe to route
any (small) fumes to safety.

FWIW, I've never bothered with greasing battery terminals - and never had
corrosion either.

--
*Two many clicks spoil the browse *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Johny B Good wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote
The Natural Philosopher wrote
DerbyBorn wrote

The clunk is accompanied with the dash lights going off.

high resistance battery terminal.

That is just one possibility.

100% definite

Nope, I got that with a bad battery.

You had a bad battery which sometimes spins a cold engine over normally?

Yep. It appears to have a poor joint internally. Always
started the cold engine fine. Would sometimes not start
at all when well warmed up, with either a stall or just
frequent engine starts like on the garage/yard sale run.

Absolutely certainly the battery because the
replacement never saw the problem again.

Mate of mine wanted the old one for his solar system
so I didn't demolish it to see what the problem was.

I keep forgetting to ask him how its gone since he got it.

wiggle it, remove it, grease it, replace it, and tighten it.

Didn't help with mine.

I repeat that it always spins the engine over really fast
when cold. It is only after an accidental stall that the
problem shows. I must try to deliberately reproduce it.

I got exactly those symptoms, but with it also sometimes
failing to turn the engine over with high frequency starts
on the garage/yard sale run. That's what happened when
I eventually decided that it must be the battery, it was on
the garage/yard sale run. Usual problem, the dash lights
dimmed right down when you attempted to start, nothing
but the click of the solenoid. Got that mate to give me a
lift to the battery shop. By the time we got back it started
fine with the original battery so I drove it home and fitted
the new battery at home.

Even a jumper start wouldn't start it when it wouldn't
start. Waiting would always see it start eventually.

Presumably it was just a physical break inside the
battery that opened up when the battery was warm
enough and closed again when it cooled down.

Never completely dead, the dash lights were fine but
dimmed down completely when you tried to start.

The proof that it was the battery was that the voltage
across the battery posts themselves, not the terminals,
dropped dramatically when the starter was used.

You couldn't have devised a more definitive test than that.

True.

The only other remaining possibility for that battery
volt drop would be a starter motor short circuit

The problem with that possibility is that it wouldn't
see the car always start fine when cold but sometimes
fail to start with just a click from the solenoid and do
that repeatedly until you had waited a while and it
had cooled down a bit.

but I rather expect you'd have seen signs of the magic
smoke escaping from the starter or be able to detect
evidence of the battery cables getting rather hot.

Yeah, there were no symptoms like that at all
or anything like it. Lack of current, not lots of it.

And obviously the proof was that a new battery fixed it.

And that, folks, is the clincher. :-)

That was the original battery supplied
by Hyundai in the car bought new.

Some weird manufacturing defect in the battery.

Yeah, if he hadn't wanted the battery for his solar
system I would have opened it up to have a look.

And it happened outside the 5 year warranty too.
I had had a few early examples of it failing to start
when warm while still in the warranty, but there
were plenty of much more likely possibilitys like
just a dirty connection at the posts and it didn't
happen often enough get me to have a proper look.

The car is a manual with the car not starting at all
unless you have your foot on the clutch too, so one
other obvious possibility was that clutch switch too.

A rather unusual fault but when it comes to electrochemical
energy storage, _anything_ is possible.

My bet is just a simple mechanical problem
in one of the lead straps between cells etc.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Johny B Good wrote

But only if you don't properly tighten the clamps. Provided you
wriggle the clamps a little as you tighten them up to squeeze out the
excess grease (vaseline or silicone), you'll get just as good a contact
as if it where totally dry. The point of the grease is to stop ingress
of any acid into the joint which will corrode a dry joint over time.

Old hat these days since I've not seen an open vent battery
in years. Most are sealed with a small vent tube to one side
connected to a pipe to route any (small) fumes to safety.

FWIW, I've never bothered with greasing battery terminals

I haven't either.

- and never had corrosion either.

I've had plenty of that with older cars.