I am in the processing of replacing my outdoor security lights with LEDs
these are in 2 separate circuits. There is one at the back of the house
controlled by a single PIR while 3 at the front controlled by 2 PIRs.
Each circuit is controlled in turn by a "Securilite" TZX box. The lights
come on correctly, but when they are automatically switched off, by the
controller's timer, they pulse, at a slightly lower light. The control
box has lights showing which circuit has been activated, these behave
normally. I am at a loss as to the problem, any suggestions please?

In article ,
Broadback wrote:
I am in the processing of replacing my outdoor security lights with LEDs
these are in 2 separate circuits. There is one at the back of the house
controlled by a single PIR while 3 at the front controlled by 2 PIRs.
Each circuit is controlled in turn by a "Securilite" TZX box. The lights
come on correctly, but when they are automatically switched off, by the
controller's timer, they pulse, at a slightly lower light. The control
box has lights showing which circuit has been activated, these behave
normally. I am at a loss as to the problem, any suggestions please?

I suspect that the TZX box used an electronic switch. for these to work
correctly they need minimum load. This is not provided by your new LED
fittings. You will need to replace it with one capable of handling a
smaller load.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

/ any suggestions please/q

If you can, just live with it and think fondly of the savings from the LEDs?

Jim K

"charles" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Broadback wrote:
I am in the processing of replacing my outdoor security lights with LEDs
these are in 2 separate circuits. There is one at the back of the house
controlled by a single PIR while 3 at the front controlled by 2 PIRs.
Each circuit is controlled in turn by a "Securilite" TZX box. The lights
come on correctly, but when they are automatically switched off, by the
controller's timer, they pulse, at a slightly lower light. The control
box has lights showing which circuit has been activated, these behave
normally. I am at a loss as to the problem, any suggestions please?

I suspect that the TZX box used an electronic switch. for these to work
correctly they need minimum load. This is not provided by your new LED
fittings. You will need to replace it with one capable of handling a
smaller load.


It could be that the LEDs are flashing due to capacitive coupling in the
wiring

http://www.kosnic.com/technology/art...in-the-clinic/

--
Adam

On 06/12/2014 16:48, JimK wrote:
/ any suggestions please/q

If you can, just live with it and think fondly of the savings from the LEDs?

Jim K

I can live with it, but I doubt my neighbours could! :-))

On Saturday, December 6, 2014 5:35:39 PM UTC, Broadback wrote:
On 06/12/2014 16:48, JimK wrote:

If you can, just live with it and think fondly of the savings from the LEDs?

I can live with it, but I doubt my neighbours could! :-))

Then add a low power filament lamp into the mix


NT

On 06/12/2014 17:46, wrote:
On Saturday, December 6, 2014 5:35:39 PM UTC, Broadback wrote:
On 06/12/2014 16:48, JimK wrote:

If you can, just live with it and think fondly of the savings from the LEDs?

I can live with it, but I doubt my neighbours could! :-))

Then add a low power filament lamp into the mix


NT

A thought meow, but it rather negates the efficiency of LEDs

On Sunday, December 7, 2014 1:40:45 PM UTC, Broadback wrote:
On 06/12/2014 17:46, wrote:
On Saturday, December 6, 2014 5:35:39 PM UTC, Broadback wrote:
On 06/12/2014 16:48, JimK wrote:

If you can, just live with it and think fondly of the savings from the LEDs?

I can live with it, but I doubt my neighbours could! :-))

Then add a low power filament lamp into the mix

A thought meow, but it rather negates the efficiency of LEDs

Its more than a thought, its the one thing thats going to work, other than changing the equipment


NT

wrote:
On Sunday, December 7, 2014 1:40:45 PM UTC, Broadback wrote:
On 06/12/2014 17:46, wrote:
On Saturday, December 6, 2014 5:35:39 PM UTC, Broadback wrote:
On 06/12/2014 16:48, JimK wrote:

If you can, just live with it and think fondly of the savings from the LEDs?

I can live with it, but I doubt my neighbours could! :-))

Then add a low power filament lamp into the mix

A thought meow, but it rather negates the efficiency of LEDs

Its more than a thought, its the one thing thats going to work, other than changing the equipment


NT

Usually only needs a 15w oven/fridge bulb and it will only be on when
the floodlights are on so not much difference to overall power consumption.

On Sun, 07 Dec 2014 15:28:02 +0000, Bob Minchin wrote:

Usually only needs a 15w oven/fridge bulb and it will only be on when
the floodlights are on so not much difference to overall power
consumption.

Hum 3 x 10 W LED floods = 30 W. 15 W tungesten is 50% of the
consumption for naff all light in comparison with the LEDs. OK 15 W
for 4 hrs/day 365 days/year is only 21 units but that's one less
(cheap) pint down the pub.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:

Bob Minchin wrote:

Usually only needs a 15w oven/fridge bulb and it will only be on when
the floodlights are on so not much difference to overall power
consumption.

Hum 3 x 10 W LED floods = 30 W. 15 W tungesten is 50% of the
consumption for naff all light in comparison with the LEDs.

Yes, but compared to the 3x umpty Watts (of halogen floods?) that have
been replaced ...

On 07/12/2014 17:27, Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote:

Bob Minchin wrote:

Usually only needs a 15w oven/fridge bulb and it will only be on when
the floodlights are on so not much difference to overall power
consumption.

Hum 3 x 10 W LED floods = 30 W. 15 W tungesten is 50% of the
consumption for naff all light in comparison with the LEDs.

Yes, but compared to the 3x umpty Watts (of halogen floods?) that have
been replaced ...

In case anyone is interested, I tried various ways of getting the lights
to work properly, including fitting a capacitor/resistor filter, in the
end the only thing to work were 12W lamps connected across the 2
channels. I fitted them with holders, as eventuality the lights will
fail so I can easily replace them. Thanks for the help

On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 08:36:51 +0000, Broadback wrote:

On 07/12/2014 17:27, Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote:

Bob Minchin wrote:

Usually only needs a 15w oven/fridge bulb and it will only be on when
the floodlights are on so not much difference to overall power
consumption.

Hum 3 x 10 W LED floods = 30 W. 15 W tungesten is 50% of the
consumption for naff all light in comparison with the LEDs.

Yes, but compared to the 3x umpty Watts (of halogen floods?) that have
been replaced ...

In case anyone is interested, I tried various ways of getting the lights
to work properly, including fitting a capacitor/resistor filter, in the
end the only thing to work were 12W lamps connected across the 2
channels. I fitted them with holders, as eventuality the lights will
fail so I can easily replace them. Thanks for the help

Bit late now, but to make the filament lamps last 'forever', wire them in
series - cuts the wattage and the filaments only glow. It means, of course,
that they are useless for lighting but they just make a high temperature,
reliable, resistor.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 19/12/2014 09:27, PeterC wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 08:36:51 +0000, Broadback wrote:

On 07/12/2014 17:27, Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote:

Bob Minchin wrote:

Usually only needs a 15w oven/fridge bulb and it will only be on when
the floodlights are on so not much difference to overall power
consumption.

Hum 3 x 10 W LED floods = 30 W. 15 W tungesten is 50% of the
consumption for naff all light in comparison with the LEDs.

Yes, but compared to the 3x umpty Watts (of halogen floods?) that have
been replaced ...

In case anyone is interested, I tried various ways of getting the lights
to work properly, including fitting a capacitor/resistor filter, in the
end the only thing to work were 12W lamps connected across the 2
channels. I fitted them with holders, as eventuality the lights will
fail so I can easily replace them. Thanks for the help

Bit late now, but to make the filament lamps last 'forever', wire them in
series - cuts the wattage and the filaments only glow. It means, of course,
that they are useless for lighting but they just make a high temperature,
reliable, resistor.

Thanks. That will be easy to do, I will try it later, probably after
Christmas as her indoors has got a long list including shopping! :-(((

On 19/12/2014 11:43, Broadback wrote:
On 19/12/2014 09:27, PeterC wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 08:36:51 +0000, Broadback wrote:

On 07/12/2014 17:27, Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote:

Bob Minchin wrote:

Usually only needs a 15w oven/fridge bulb and it will only be on when
the floodlights are on so not much difference to overall power
consumption.

Hum 3 x 10 W LED floods = 30 W. 15 W tungesten is 50% of the
consumption for naff all light in comparison with the LEDs.

Yes, but compared to the 3x umpty Watts (of halogen floods?) that have
been replaced ...

In case anyone is interested, I tried various ways of getting the lights
to work properly, including fitting a capacitor/resistor filter, in the
end the only thing to work were 12W lamps connected across the 2
channels. I fitted them with holders, as eventuality the lights will
fail so I can easily replace them. Thanks for the help

Bit late now, but to make the filament lamps last 'forever', wire them in
series - cuts the wattage and the filaments only glow. It means, of
course,
that they are useless for lighting but they just make a high temperature,
reliable, resistor.

Thanks. That will be easy to do, I will try it later, probably after
Christmas as her indoors has got a long list including shopping! :-(((
Sad to say Peter I tried that, but when in series the lights still
flash, so have reconnected in parallel. Thanks for the idea though.

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 12:30:41 +0000, Broadback wrote:

In case anyone is interested, I tried various ways of getting the lights
to work properly, including fitting a capacitor/resistor filter, in the
end the only thing to work were 12W lamps connected across the 2
channels. I fitted them with holders, as eventuality the lights will
fail so I can easily replace them. Thanks for the help

Bit late now, but to make the filament lamps last 'forever', wire them in
series - cuts the wattage and the filaments only glow. It means, of
course,
that they are useless for lighting but they just make a high temperature,
reliable, resistor.

Thanks. That will be easy to do, I will try it later, probably after
Christmas as her indoors has got a long list including shopping! :-(((
Sad to say Peter I tried that, but when in series the lights still
flash, so have reconnected in parallel. Thanks for the idea though.

It might just need higher wattage lamps to achieve the same resistance.
Means the load will increase but the filaments will still last. Downside is
that the load will cost but there'll be no useful light.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway